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HarryPotter

Harry’s Riddikulus Reefer 350 🤡

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are you adding more rocks?

 

 

I am not sure. I have 100lbs or so of CaribSea rock that has been cooked for a long time and is cycled and live now- but I don't want to fill it up so I can have room for my two islands. One of the pieces in the brute can (heater and powerhead) is a combo that uses acrylic rods so make an awesome cliff, I will take it out and see once the tank is clearer and has a bit more bacteria?

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Because less flow allows the sump to work better for you. Gives a better chance for skimmer, reactors, etc. to actually work and pull crap out of the water rather than just massively circulating it through your system. You should get flow for your corals and such from powerbeads in the DT, not your return pump. I posted two articles that talk about this in your other thread.

 

 

Yes I read them and lowered my GPH expectations. Red Sea recommends 800gph and I am below that, especially if I decide to T off to power a small reactor. The article does say about 5x, so that would be 450 GPH?

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Yes I read them and understand what you mean. Red Sea recommends 800gph and I am below that, especially if I decide to T off to power a small reactor. The article does say about 5x, so that would be 450 GPH?

 

Well, keep in mind - red sea may be making the recommendations based on flow in the DT if you were to run no powerheads. SCA recommended over 750 GPH for my tank and that's the stock pump I got. Honestly, that type of flow through the sump I don't feel is needed, but if I didn't have an MP40 in there, I'd need that type of flow going into the DT to keep detritus moving and corals happy.

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Well, keep in mind - red sea may be making the recommendations based on flow in the DT if you were to run no powerheads. SCA recommended over 750 GPH for my tank and that's the stock pump I got. Honestly, that type of flow through the sump I don't feel is needed, but if I didn't have an MP40 in there, I'd need that type of flow going into the DT to keep detritus moving and corals happy.

 

 

I didn't consider that red sea gave that number without considering powerheads! In my RL-45 I had about 600gph plus the powerhead so I was thinking it should be closer to 1200 for this volume of 90, but after reading the articles I see thats total overkill and if anything reduces efficiency.

 

Stella I tried a power-out to see how the sump would react and it doesn't overflow, water level gets a bit higher but after a little bit stops safely.

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what about more flow = more detritus removed with your filter sock?


also, check your overflow water level after water change in the beginning. it takes a few weeks for things to really dial in.

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Chris!   

Harry push as much flow through it as you can your filter sock will work harder. Your not going to be blowing shit past your skimmer lol Your skimmer will remove what its going to remove, getting more to the skimmer is going to be better then slowly getting it to the skimmer lol

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what about more flow = more detritus removed with your filter sock?

also, check your overflow water level after water change in the beginning. it takes a few weeks for things to really dial in.

 

 

Did you make a sharpie mark for the water level in the sump?

 

I don't understand why overflow water level. It changes over time?

what about more flow = more detritus removed with your filter sock?

also, check your overflow water level after water change in the beginning. it takes a few weeks for things to really dial in.

 

 

Harry push as much flow through it as you can your filter sock will work harder. Your not going to be blowing shit past your skimmer lol Your skimmer will remove what its going to remove, getting more to the skimmer is going to be better then slowly getting it to the skimmer lol

 

 

 

Because less flow allows the sump to work better for you. Gives a better chance for skimmer, reactors, etc. to actually work and pull crap out of the water rather than just massively circulating it through your system. You should get flow for your corals and such from powerbeads in the DT, not your return pump. I posted two articles that talk about this in your other thread.

 

Lots of different opinions on the subject of GPH through sump! On one hand more dwell time to be cleaned and processed, on another more volume getting through filter socks and mechanical filtration!

 

For the moment I will leave it here, 4/5 of the pumps capacity since it is quiet and no load yet, but there is definitely more research to be done :)

Dude I hope your new tank looks half as good as your last tank!

 

Thanks! I hope I will be able to apply what I've learned here and avoid all the mistakes I made on take #1

Nice upgrade Harry !!! maybe one day lol

 

Hey I will be selling a great condition RL-45, RL-8, 20l, and 10g locally after the transfer ;)

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You said the DT water level in the overflow box is 1 inch below the middle emergency pipe. It may not stay that way in the beginning as the system is getting adjusted. At least for me, I had to check it once every couple of days in the beginning.

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You said the DT water level in the overflow box is 1 inch below the middle emergency pipe. It may not stay that way in the beginning as the system is getting adjusted. At least for me, I had to check it once every couple of days in the beginning.

 

 

I didn't know that, I will keep my eye on it.

 

Tank is currently 76*! Brrrr! Need to grab a heater or something. My RL-45 runs hot so either this tank is much more efficient with the DC equipment or it is still warming up.

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more surface area for cooling?

 

 

Could be, about double the surface area of the tank and then the area of the sump. Do overflows cool water too? :lol: In the RL-45 I have four pumps running though, none of those DC so that probably contributes?

 

 

Does your reefer run at ambient?

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i live in Chicago. i run a 400w heater...hahah

 

 

Stupid Florida! House is 74-85 every day haha

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Stupid Florida! House is 74-85 every day haha

good thing you have an Apex now and the Reefer has a chiller area. Program your Apex with a heater and chiller to keep temperature constant. My tank is always between 78 and 79.

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Chris!   

For the moment I will leave it here, 4/5 of the pumps capacity since it is quiet and no load yet, but there is definitely more research to be done :)

 

Research all you want, you will find a million different ways to do EVERYTHING.

 

purple-acro_zpsym9egqbw.jpg

 

Was running over 10x the actual DT volume through the sump with only a skimmer, no fuge, no macros or reactors, over 11k gph in additional flow inside the tank, with peak flow being 110% of the actual DT volume. Strategic flow is your friend :lol:

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I didn't know that, I will keep my eye on it.

 

Tank is currently 76*! Brrrr! Need to grab a heater or something. My RL-45 runs hot so either this tank is much more efficient with the DC equipment or it is still warming up.

 

There aren't any lights over it so that will impact things as well. 76 isn't insanely low but find the temp it is easier to keep it consistent at

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There aren't any lights over it so that will impact things as well. 76 isn't insanely low but find the temp it is easier to keep it consistent at

That's true but also do LEDs add much heat? I will transfer my RSS temp controller to this tank with the livestock

 

Research all you want, you will find a million different ways to do EVERYTHING.

 

purple-acro_zpsym9egqbw.jpg

 

Was running over 10x the actual DT volume through the sump with only a skimmer, no fuge, no macros or reactors, over 11k gph in additional flow inside the tank, with peak flow being 110% of the actual DT volume. Strategic flow is your friend :lol:

I'm trying to convert that to my 45g AIO so I have 600goh in the returns (over 100% DT) and then another 1000gph or so from the MP40... So lotsa flow.

good thing you have an Apex now and the Reefer has a chiller area. Program your Apex with a heater and chiller to keep temperature constant. My tank is always between 78 and 79.

The 300g cichlid tank runs at 75* all the time with a heater, I'm hoping with this greater water volume I can run without a chiller. I do have a temp controller so will use that with a heater/sump fan

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That's true but also do LEDs add much heat? I will transfer my RSS temp controller to this tank with the livestock

 

I'm trying to convert that to my 45g AIO so I have 600goh in the returns (over 100% DT) and then another 1000gph or so from the MP40... So lotsa flow.

 

The 300g cichlid tank runs at 75* all the time with a heater, I'm hoping with this greater water volume I can run without a chiller. I do have a temp controller so will use that with a heater/sump fan

 

probably not - I think Ninja had a point about more surface area to cool. Evaporation always cools stuff down for sure.

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Following! Congrats on the new tank!

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You should be good without a chiller. If you're in Miami I'm about an hour north of you and my tank runs at 78-79 with no chiller. I actually have to heat the water up to 78 and then my Hydra 52 brings it up a single degree at peak intensity. I was worried about the good ol Florida heat but with air conditioning you should be good.

 

Can't wait to see the new build!

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Hey this looks exciting. Good luck with the new tank!

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