MarquiseO's Shallow 36"x24"x16" Reef Tank

[rickztahone]

^

I will only say the following because of what you said "TBH, I am no overflow expert" . I believe you are running a Bean Animal setup. Now, the way the Bean Animal setup works is as follows, one is a full siphon line, this one ALWAYS has the valve, typically you see a gate valve for more precise flow control.

 

The second one is the open channel. This is the one that has the airline tubing coming out of the top. The last of course is the emergency.

 

The point of the open channel is as follows, if, for whatever reason the full siphon line were to get clogged, then the outer overflow box will begin to rise with water. At this point, the open channel line that has the airline tubing needs to turn in to a full siphon line, but, in order to do this, the airline needs to come in contact with the water height, this is why you want the airline tubing bending down towards the inside of the box and not the top of the pvc. Once the line is submerged, it will become a full siphon line and the emergency becomes the open channel.

 

You generally want to end your emergency line ABOVE the water line in the sump, because if your siphon line is clogged, you will audibly hear the water splashing in your sump to alert you that something is wrong.

 

Your full siphon line will have to be submerged ~1" in the sump for it to work properly. Lastly, the open channel line I keep pretty submerged in my setup so that I do not get any dripping water sounds from it when the return section has evaporated water loss.

 

The open channel line never really needs a valve because you always want it fully open. You only want a trickle of water to go down that line because this is what causes the full siphon line from not taking in all the flow, which makes the whole system quiet, which is the brilliance of a BA setup.

 

Anyways, I hope I didn't come across as a know-it-all, I merely wanted to say something in case you didn't know it and to prevent anything from going wrong.

 

I made a video on a Bean Animal setup on my 75g discus tank and 40g sump if you are interested in viewing it:

[ReviloM]

Oh man this looks nice. Are just doing royal grammas, no anthias this time?

Both

I will only say the following because of what you said "TBH, I am no overflow expert" . I believe you are running a Bean Animal setup. Now, the way the Bean Animal setup works is as follows, one is a full siphon line, this one ALWAYS has the valve, typically you see a gate valve for more precise flow control.

 

The second one is the open channel. This is the one that has the airline tubing coming out of the top. The last of course is the emergency.

 

The point of the open channel is as follows, if, for whatever reason the full siphon line were to get clogged, then the outer overflow box will begin to rise with water. At this point, the open channel line that has the airline tubing needs to turn in to a full siphon line, but, in order to do this, the airline needs to come in contact with the water height, this is why you want the airline tubing bending down towards the inside of the box and not the top of the pvc. Once the line is submerged, it will become a full siphon line and the emergency becomes the open channel.

 

You generally want to end your emergency line ABOVE the water line in the sump, because if your siphon line is clogged, you will audibly hear the water splashing in your sump to alert you that something is wrong.

 

Your full siphon line will have to be submerged ~1" in the sump for it to work properly. Lastly, the open channel line I keep pretty submerged in my setup so that I do not get any dripping water sounds from it when the return section has evaporated water loss.

 

The open channel line never really needs a valve because you always want it fully open. You only want a trickle of water to go down that line because this is what causes the full siphon line from not taking in all the flow, which makes the whole system quiet, which is the brilliance of a BA setup.

 

Anyways, I hope I didn't come across as a know-it-all, I merely wanted to say something in case you didn't know it and to prevent anything from going wrong.

 

I made a video on a Bean Animal setup on my 75g discus tank and 40g sump if you are interested in viewing it:

Thanks for info.

[ReviloM]

So the tank is going through a small diatom bloom. I will upload a FTS once that subsides. Sorry. But here are some pics of my montiporas I currently have in my tank:

[ReviloM]

Update:

-I have been away from home for the past two days and came home to my aquascape had fallen apart. The issue occurred due to the Vertex Epoxy. I highly recommend everyone to NOT use it. It hardens out of water but later it fell apart while submerged. I had to redo my scape with JB WaterWeld.

-Installed my MRC CR2 Dual Calcuium Reactor with a CarbonDoser.com Electronic CO2 Regulator & 5lb CO2 tank.

-My next step will be wire management.

-Some of my SPS have lost color due to phosphates. The new rock I used had too much die off and it affected the coloration. I estimate the color to return in about 3 weeks.

Here is a pic of the display and the sump area. Note that this pic was just taken while the LEDs are within the last hour of the ramp down.

[rturiak]

Sorry about your rock scape.. Won't be using that product any time soon.

 

Why are you hanging your LEDs so high? Seems like they could be lots lower

[ReviloM]

Sorry about your rock scape.. Won't be using that product any time soon.

 

Why are you hanging your LEDs so high? Seems like they could be lots lower

It's really not that tall. The photo makes it appear that way. It's 14" away from the water line and my lights are 100%. I'd rather raise my lights and use 100% instead of lowering the %. When I tested with the par meter, it gave me the desired range of 300+ par on the top area of my aquascape where my acros are.

[bobssecrtsn]

It may also give you a better spread and not a disco effect, I would think so

[ReviloM]

It may also give you a better spread and not a disco effect, I would think so

With the placement of my rockscape and the lights directly above them, spread wouldn't have be an issue due to the native 80 Degree lenses. Amazingly with these lights, there isn't a discoball effect.

 

 

 

 

 

The only I do not like though is that the "LED BLUE" produced by this fixture is more like a "Kessil Blue" than a "Reef Brite XHO Blue". (That's the best way to compare the deepness of the blue, lol)

[TheKleinReef]

geez. you're plumbing is prettier than my display. haha

nice work man! It looks stunning!

[ReviloM]

geez. you're plumbing is prettier than my display. haha

nice work man! It looks stunning!

lol Thanks!

[ReviloM]

Some pics I just took. I do miss the ReefBrite XHO units. The two units on produced enough light to take good photos under blues only. With my new hydras, the images come out a little darker due to lesser amount of blue LEDs.

I can't wait till this echinata grows out to look like the mother colony I got it from:

[lilmatty5dimes]

I got the tank bottom and back painted. Installed the ghost overflow. I had to take a pic from the side because from the front, you won't see the overflow well because it blends in with the back wall too well.

 

 

 

On another note: UPS let me down with my plumbing. They usually bring the package all the way to the hub near my home but decided to stop travel of my package an hour and 53 mins away at another hub. I was going to go pick it up from the hub near me today instead of delivery Tuesday but that plan failed.

that there is just pure sexiness. love the idea of cutting out the AIO/false wall i did it to my cadlight 16g which made it a lot better. it looked pretty dirty back there.

 

awesome job. i'm in love with the red and black theme.

 

Nah. I went back to LEDs but with more fixtures for more spread. I will practically run them at a low setting but have a more even spread. I like T5's but the bulb and energy costs started to take an effect.

I've been working on the aquascape. It isn't finished but here is a sneak peak for everyone:

 

 

 

should have kept the t5's was going to ask what you used but i see that it failed. what jbweld do you use?

 

Well here is my skimmer, Reef Octopus Classic 202-S. It is way bigger than I expected. I placed a 12 FL Oz gatorade next to it for size comparison. The bottle has about a 2.5" diameter.

 

that skimmer is awesome.

 

 

So the tank is going through a small diatom bloom. I will upload a FTS once that subsides. Sorry. But here are some pics of my montiporas I currently have in my tank:

 

great monti collection. i love that first one. definitely following

[ReviloM]

that there is just pure sexiness. love the idea of cutting out the AIO/false wall i did it to my cadlight 16g which made it a lot better. it looked pretty dirty back there.

 

awesome job. i'm in love with the red and black theme.

 

should have kept the t5's was going to ask what you used but i see that it failed. what jbweld do you use?

 

that skimmer is awesome.

 

great monti collection. i love that first one. definitely following

 

Thanks! I use the regular JB Waterweld from lowes

[lilmatty5dimes]

Thanks! I use the regular JB Waterweld from lowes

This stuff here? Do anything special to it or just follow the directions and place where ya wanted the rock to stick. Thanks

[ReviloM]

This stuff here? Do anything special to it or just follow the directions and place where ya wanted the rock to stick. Thanks

Yes. Just use it like regular reef epoxy.

[ReviloM]

Nothing significant to report with the tank. The tank is starting to stabilize. SPS are starting to regain color.

My tank is now filled with millions(not an exaggeration) of pods all over the glass and rocks.

[ReviloM]

Some pics to bump the thread:

 

[mallek]

awesome! had one of those chalice in the first pic a while back and really regret trading it. beautiful tank!!!!

[ReviloM]

awesome! had one of those chalice in the first pic a while back and really regret trading it. beautiful tank!!!!

It's a Watermelon Chalice. I am pretty sure you will stumble across another one due to several variations of it on the market right now.

[ReviloM]

Some more pics:

All pics were taken under (2) AI Hydra 52 HD with 100% UV, 100% Violet, 202% RB, 71% Blue, and 0% for everything else.

[Cove]

AMAZING! Loving this build thread, following along!

[ReviloM]

AMAZING! Loving this build thread, following along!

Thanks!

[Michelos]

Great!...Fts?

[ReviloM]

Great!...Fts?

Thanks. One will be posted soon.

[ReviloM]

Update:

 

 

-Lighting: Right now I have (2) Hydra 52 HD. I can truly say these lights are worth every penny and rival many of the other popular fixtures out there. The reason I chose these were due to cost, user friendliness, builtin wifi, appeal, and my first choice was on backorder for months in the US. I have had several fresh cut corals to encrust nicely while under these lights.

 

I recently received an email that my first choice of lighting, Giesemann Matrixx II 6x39W was back in stock so I purchased it. I may add two "36" Reefbrite XHO units on the outer areas as seen in the images below but I am not sure how effective they will be on the outsides:

 

 

Image from BeanMachine on ReefCentral.