The Cube - Phase III - Wrasse Collection pg. 7

[ReviloM]

If those two are your choices, go with the Sunpower. I love LEDs and almost always recommend them, but the honest truth is that an XR15 is too small for a 24x24 footprint. Even a XR30 is only OK for that coverage. You'll end up with high par right underneath the array, much lower par off center, and a lot of shading on SPS branches. For the price, I'd much rather go with a pair of reef breeders value fixtures than an XR15 due to coverage and honestly pretty equal spectral quality. Alternatively, DIY is always fun and it would be pretty easy to DIY a 4-nanobox puck+ 2 T5 array for a similar price to the Sunpower+ bulbs.

I like T5's and the spread but I don't like the "cool white blue"

I like LEDs but I don't like the limited spread. I had the XR15W and it does fine even with 24x24 footprint. I don't plan on having SPS everywhere and the shade will be good for the LPS, which why I am kinda leaning more towards the LEDS.

 

I suck at DIY which is why I haven't considered that. I looked at a retro kit from Nanobox but the pricing point is driving me away for just a 24" fixture and a led even with me providing the fixture, plus shipping both ways at my own expense. I know a lot of people have nano-boxes, but I am not sold on them just yet. I don't see the difference (even though there may be) from other fixtures currently offered except customization (coloring). Also, getting the custom color lowers the resale value and chance when you have to suddenly leave this hobby or change up.

 

You could use some sort of a wine chiller, or if you get a small mini-fridge you can drill a small hole through the side and seal it up with silicone.

I looked at both options. I looked for a used mini fridge and couldn't find a good deal on one. As for a small electronic wine chiller, I saw http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJ7T5G8/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me='>this. It may do the job, it may not. I, also, looked at the wine coolers (fridges) and no luck there as well. I will keep looking though.

[ReviloM]

You could use some sort of a wine chiller, or if you get a small mini-fridge you can drill a small hole through the side and seal it up with silicone.

I need to find http://www.amazon.com/Haier-6-Bottle-Cellar-Electronic-Controls/dp/B00DNSO1OW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_11?ie=UTF8&refRID=0624MF92W00PYY7A7R3H'>this used. It's very small and fits on a countertop.

 

[Paleoreef103]

I'm not quite sure what you mean by Cool White Blue for T5s. You can make your T5s as cool or as warm as you want.

The shading thing isn't exactly what I'm talking about. In this case I'm talking about the total amount of tissue well illuminated on the coral which is more of a branching coral problem. Basically, the even distribution of T5 light illuminates more of the tissue on SPS and results in less tissue die off on the underside of branches or on the base of the coral because the coral isn't shading itself. This issue is magnified by when you only have one array where the light is coming from. With more spread out fixtures with multiple arrays this effect can be decreased which is part of the reason that Metrokat and JediMasterBen are going to two rows of LEDs even with their supplemental T5s.

It's like trying to make shadow puppets with a single incandescent bulb vs shadow puppets with an overhead fluorescent. Single point source makes hard shadows vs a broad spread that makes very weak shadows.

I like T5's and the spread but I don't like the "cool white blue"

I like LEDs but I don't like the limited spread. I had the XR15W and it does fine even with 24x24 footprint. I don't plan on having SPS everywhere and the shade will be good for the LPS, which why I am kinda leaning more towards the LEDS.

[ReviloM]

I'm not quite sure what you mean by Cool White Blue for T5s. You can make your T5s as cool or as warm as you want.

 

The shading thing isn't exactly what I'm talking about. In this case I'm talking about the total amount of tissue well illuminated on the coral which is more of a branching coral problem. Basically, the even distribution of T5 light illuminates more of the tissue on SPS and results in less tissue die off on the underside of branches or on the base of the coral because the coral isn't shading itself. This issue is magnified by when you only have one array where the light is coming from. With more spread out fixtures with multiple arrays this effect can be decreased which is part of the reason that Metrokat and JediMasterBen are going to two rows of LEDs even with their supplemental T5s.

 

Ignore the outer portion. Focus on the middle. Example is when you buy light bulbs. Cool blue bulbs are a white 'ish blue while Warm bulbs are yellowish. The t5's 20,000K color is a "cool blue" instead of a "deep blue" to the human eye.

 

 

 

I had this fixture and it all depends. On a barebottom system, it seems to be reflected fine under the base of branching corals but thats only if you keep the bottom clean. To some, it's a big issue especially if you have numerous amounts but to me, I wouldn't consider it a huge issue. Most branching corals will always overlap the lower section. To deter that, I will have to do regular pruning (fragging) to ensure enough light is given to the full coral.

[Paleoreef103]

I know what cool white means, I'm just saying that if you think T5s are limited to cool white then you aren't using the right bulbs. A tank of 3 Blue Plus and 3 Aquablue specials will be icy cool white, but a tank of 2 Blue plus, 2 Coral plus, and 2 GE6500s will actually be quite warm (like 10K Ushio MH warm). Honestly, many T5 lit tanks I've seen are warmer than radion lit tanks (unless the person goes all in on the blue plus bulbs).

Ignore the outer portion. Focus on the middle. Example is when you buy light bulbs. Cool blue bulbs are a white 'ish blue while Warm bulbs are yellowish. The t5's 20,000K color is a "cool blue" instead of a "deep blue" to the human eye.

[ReviloM]

I know what cool white means, I'm just saying that if you think T5s are limited to cool white then you aren't using the right bulbs. A tank of 3 Blue Plus and 3 Aquablue specials will be icy cool white, but a tank of 2 Blue plus, 2 Coral plus, and 2 GE6500s will actually be quite warm (like 10K Ushio MH warm). Honestly, many T5 lit tanks I've seen are warmer than radion lit tanks (unless the person goes all in on the blue plus bulbs).

I meant in reference to LED 20,000K. I know it will never get to the same blue hue. I don't like any color temp below 14,000K tbh.

[jedimasterben]

There is no such thing as '20,000K LED'.

[ReviloM]

There is no such thing as '20,000K LED'.

programmed 20,000K color spectrum

[jedimasterben]

programmed 20,000K color spectrum

There is no such thing. CCT and spectrum are not the same thing. There is no 'standard' spectrum for CCT, it either looks like a specific kelvin temperature or it doesn't, and I can very easily trick you into thinking that two different lights are identical just by how they look, when in reality they are not similar at all spectrally.

[ReviloM]

There is no such thing. CCT and spectrum are not the same thing. There is no 'standard' spectrum for CCT, it either looks like a specific kelvin temperature or it doesn't, and I can very easily trick you into thinking that two different lights are identical just by how they look, when in reality they are not similar at all spectrally.

Plain English - I want the same deep blue color hue produced as my original fixture. I am not an LED guru so that is what I know that works and gave me the desired coloration and growth from my corals.

[jedimasterben]

Plain English - I want the same deep blue color hue produced as my original fixture. I am not an LED guru so that is what I know that works and gave me the desired coloration and growth from my corals.

Then you pretty much need to use that same light or one that uses the same diodes, that would be the only way to get close.

[ReviloM]

Then you pretty much need to use that same light or one that uses the same diodes, that would be the only way to get close.

That's pretty much the ecotech brand. I have had all of them except the Gen2 and Gen3 fixtures in which the XR15W is pretty much the same but only one puck. They all produce the same hue I like. I have also had kessil A350. The blue was not as dark but acceptable. I do understand the variations in the color among fixtures which is why I added the XR15W above as one of the choices. My maxspect celestial as has a 20,000K program but it is more of a purplish. I guess I should have explained better what I am wanting.

[jedimasterben]

That's pretty much the ecotech brand. I have had all of them except the Gen2 and Gen3 fixtures in which the XR15W is pretty much the same but only one puck. They all produce the same hue I like. I have also had kessil A350. The blue was not as dark but acceptable. I do understand the variations in the color among fixtures which is why I added the XR15W above as one of the choices. My maxspect celestial as has a 20,000K program but it is more of a purplish. I guess I should have explained better what I am wanting.

That's what I meant by there is no standard. The single puck Ration is a poor choice for this size tank, especially if you're looking into SPS. You want spread over small points of intensity.

[ReviloM]

You want spread over small points of intensity.

Explain further please.

 

 

 

 

Edit: Nvm. So you are suggesting a XR30W Pro for a better fixture? The reason I chose the XR15W because the way my projected rock layout will be. The outer sides will not have corals in those areas. Focusing on the sides will be a waste.

[ReviloM]

Pacific Sun Kore 5th ordered. Pacific Sun had a 20% off code for Black Friday and it would have sucked to miss those savings.

[jedimasterben]

Explain further please.

 

 

 

 

Edit: Nvm. So you are suggesting a XR30W Pro for a better fixture? The reason I chose the XR15W because the way my projected rock layout will be. The outer sides will not have corals in those areas. Focusing on the sides will be a waste.

It's a little different than that. Let's say that you have a plating acropora colony that is 12" across and you have the XR15W directly over it. The center will get PAR in the 500-800 range, and every inch of space that you move off-axis the PAR begins to drop significantly, so at the edges it will only be receiving 100-200. This will lead to growth being slowed around the edges (which is actually where the coral is growing).

 

Now take something like a fluorescent array or a halide with a good quality large reflector. The entire colony will receive around 300-400 PAR across it, which will increase the growth potential versus having 100-200 on the edges.

 

Now do the same experiment with a 'bushy' acropora that grows up and also out. Same principal. With focused LED, you'd have good growth in the middle going up but less growth going out, and with the distributed light you will have equal growth across the entire coral, and while lower in intensity in the center, it is higher around the edges and even across it, which is what corals want, and this will also lead to the best coloration across the coral.

[ReviloM]

Update:

 

Ordered Radion XR15W with mount. I was going to wait till the 15th because I didn't want to buy too many goods all at once but my wife told me to don't be stupid and get it now while it is still on sale. She is such a bully.

 

 

Only 2 things left to get:

 

-Reefkeeper Elite

-Media reactor

[jedimasterben]

yup, you broke the site

[ReviloM]

yup, you broke the site

Lol I was testing it to see. You were right. I fixed it.

[Arkayology]

This is going to be a cool little tank. GL with the Radion. If you are not going for SPS it should be OK.

[ReviloM]

This is going to be a cool little tank. GL with the Radion. If you are not going for SPS it should be OK.

Thanks! There are sps. I can adjust it to work though. I will always run at 100% compared to when I had the XR30W at 45% max majority of the time.

[jedimasterben]

 

Thanks! There are sps. I can adjust it to work though. I will always run at 100% compared to when I had the XR30W at 45% max majority of the time.

That's actually counterproductive, as it will photosaturate or inhibit what is directly under it, if not outright kill it.

[TheTeenReefer]

Cool build

[ReviloM]

That's actually counterproductive, as it will photosaturate or inhibit what is directly under it, if not outright kill it.

Some of my sps are accustomed the high light. Even the ones now under the t5 are getting blasted with light and are doing fine. I can always adjust to accommodate for the others. Instead of moving downward to upward, I will move outward to inward for photo-acclimation.

[ReviloM]

Guess what came yesterday