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Nano Box 13Up Arrays : For Sale!


DaveFason

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Today I get to finish my light and upon closer look at the pucks I noticed that both channel 2 solder points are labeled 2V+.

 

 

Is it safe to assume that first two are + and last two are -?

 

1V+ 2V+ 2V- 1V-?

I asked Dave the same question and you are correct with your assumption. I wired mine the same way. I'm hoping to power up tomorrow.

 

Nanobox-arrays-wired_zps71a578b4.jpg

 

Got calipers? I'd love a mechanical drawing of these boards.

What dimensions are you looking for?

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What dimensions are you looking for?

Simple stuff:

 

- Distance outer leds to the edge of the board.

- Distance between the corner diodes using the outer edges of the diodes packaging. (length, width, and diagonal)

- Solder pad size.

 

Useful to have measurements. :)

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Simple stuff:

 

- Distance outer leds to the edge of the board.

- Distance between the corner diodes using the outer edges of the diodes packaging. (length, width, and diagonal)

- Solder pad size.

 

Useful to have measurements. :)

I will measure tomorrow while I'm wiring up.

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Today I get to finish my light and upon closer look at the pucks I noticed that both channel 2 solder points are labeled 2V+.

 

IMG_20140915_164920.jpg

 

Is it safe to assume that first two are + and last two are -?

 

1V+ 2V+ 2V- 1V-?

You are very correct. I had a run with the silk screen incorrect. Thanks for catching this!!!

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  • 4 weeks later...

My brother-in-law has asked me to do a nanobox retrofit on his Red Sea Max 130D. He wants to keep the hood so how many pucks would you recommend for this tank? He has had the tank up and running for years now with the stock compact fluorescent lights so he just wants around the same power with maybe some SPS on the very top. I was thinking 2 pucks with some violet supplementation in the form of 410 and 430nm LEDs from LGB.

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jedimasterben

If it is LED only, then use four pucks so that if tastes change as far as coral selection, he won't be limited by the light, just have to turn them up a bit :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

What would you guys recommend for a 36" x11" display footprint? I was considering maybe a DIY so I could add 36" UVL super actinic t5s. Maybe like 4 clusters at 8" spacing? Or 6"?

 

I'd like to keep various polyps and LPS on the bottom, and SPS (acros, montis,birdsnest) on the upper parts. Depth would be approx 12" and ideally I would like to stay under 600.

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What would you guys recommend for a 36" x11" display footprint? I was considering maybe a DIY so I could add 36" UVL super actinic t5s. Maybe like 4 clusters at 8" spacing? Or 6"?

 

I'd like to keep various polyps and LPS on the bottom, and SPS (acros, montis,birdsnest) on the upper parts. Depth would be approx 12" and ideally I would like to stay under 600.

 

4 pucks is more than enough. My tank is 36" long and 18" tall and my fixture is 6" from the top of the tank and I am running my 4 pucks at 50% both channels. I have 7 kinds of acros in the middle of the tank and no issues. I am running extra violets though. Heatsink is 24" long and the pucks are spread out evenly across it. Using an ATI coral+ and wave point superblue as my 24" T5's.

 

1/2" sand bend with acans and micromussa on it.

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What would you guys recommend for a 36" x11" display footprint? I was considering maybe a DIY so I could add 36" UVL super actinic t5s. Maybe like 4 clusters at 8" spacing? Or 6"?

 

I'd like to keep various polyps and LPS on the bottom, and SPS (acros, montis,birdsnest) on the upper parts. Depth would be approx 12" and ideally I would like to stay under 600.

Four pucks would be great. If you went all LED and want even more light, six would be blinding. :)

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Hmmm...

 

I was thinking of getting a ASIS 824 Pro CNC reef heatsink with specular T5 finish. Maybe 3 or 4 clusters with a storm x. The T5s would still be UVL super actinic. Hmm. Decisions decisions. Other option of course is a straight nano box quad or quad hybrid.

 

Dave how wide is a Quad + 2x T5 hybrid? My display will only be 36x11x13" high.

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jedimasterben

Hmmm...

 

I was thinking of getting a ASIS 824 Pro CNC reef heatsink with specular T5 finish. Maybe 3 or 4 clusters with a storm x. The T5s would still be UVL super actinic. Hmm. Decisions decisions. Other option of course is a straight nano box quad or quad hybrid.

Curious, why the super actinic?

 

Dave how wide is a Quad + 2x T5 hybrid? My display will only be 36x11x13" high.

The nanobox fixtures are about 2" wide, and the two T5 would be at 6.5" on center.

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Curious, why the super actinic?

 

The nanobox fixtures are about 2" wide, and the two T5 would be at 6.5" on center.

Thanks.

 

I have some 18" super actinic and I LOVE the color and the resulting pop.

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Yeah farkwar just explained it to me. I hate being gone so long. But I'm back now just trying to soak in all the changes

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I have an Fluval Edge 6g, and am wanting to put one of the pucks over it on a heatsink inside the hood. Any input on how large of a heatsink would be needed to cool it, both passive and with a 90mm fan? i was going to buy the heatsink buy the inch from LEDGroupBuy

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I have an Fluval Edge 6g, and am wanting to put one of the pucks over it on a heatsink inside the hood. Any input on how large of a heatsink would be needed to cool it, both passive and with a 90mm fan? i was going to buy the heatsink buy the inch from LEDGroupBuy

If using a makers I could get a 5-6" size heatsink and toss a fan over it.

 

-Dave

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I have an Fluval Edge 6g, and am wanting to put one of the pucks over it on a heatsink inside the hood. Any input on how large of a heatsink would be needed to cool it, both passive and with a 90mm fan? i was going to buy the heatsink buy the inch from LEDGroupBuy

 

The fan is what will make the biggest difference. If you go Noctua you will have no problems and have a basically silent light. I have 3x 120mm noctuas on my 24" heatsink which has 4x nanobox pucks running at full power and I can't hear them. My skimmer is considerably louder.

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