Halo_003 Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 The extra cost to have Dave build the fixture and make it sexy is worth it if you don't like building gizmos. Lighting is probably the most important aspect of your tank, I would get what you want from the getgo unless you like having a project and to tinker. Yeah I figure if the cost is that close then it would be worth the extra to get it done exactly how I want it and have it function 100%. I don't mind tinkering but at the same time my electronics DIY stuff is very limited. (As far as most of the lighting goes). Especially if it costs, what, like $100 extra tops? lol. I wish Dave had lenses similar to the Kessil's though, the Duo would be perfect if it could cover the full 20L footprint well enough. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 I wish Dave had lenses similar to the Kessil's though, the Duo would be perfect if it could cover the full 20L footprint well enough. What would a lens do? Lenses reduce spread, they cannot enhance it. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 What would a lens do? Lenses reduce spread, they cannot enhance it. Hmm. I was thinking of how the Kessil's have the W, wide angle version? Maybe they wouldn't do anything like you say lol. I'm not that experienced with LED's like you guys are so I wasn't sure. Link to comment
Moolelo Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Look through the nanobox forum for a thread where Dave gave PAR values for a duo over a 30" long tank, there is only a slight drop off in power for the bottom outside 2" or less. I personally like my rockwork at least that far away from the glass, so I went with a duo for my 20 long. Still ramping up, but my octocoral is on the outside range of this light and is already getting reflective sclerites back that usually only show up in full sun in tide pools. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 That one? That is PERFECT. Duo 12" I think is my top choice right now. If that's the right thing and it's accurate, that is excellent. Link to comment
cichlidtx Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Dave sent you a PM on these arrays. Thanks Link to comment
cichlidtx Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Jedi, If I went with the HLG-80H-48A PS for 2 arrays (52w@700Ma) this would leave me room for an additional 8-9 led's (28W@700Ma). Am I calculating this correctly? Thanks For two of them, an HLG-60H-48 or -48A. The -48 is IP67 and the -48A is adjustable voltage and IP65. That's running on two 700mA drivers, as the boards pull right around 26w each. If you are pushing the boards to their maximum, which is 1A on the 'white' channel and 800mA on the 'blue' channel, then you'll need the HLG-80H-48 or -48A, as each board uses ~36w each. Link to comment
Moolelo Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 That one? That is PERFECT. Duo 12" I think is my top choice right now. If that's the right thing and it's accurate, that is excellent. That is the one. I think a lot of people get carried away trying to put as much led over tanks as possible, but the normal duo does an excellent job for the main part of the tank and even gives a variance in par so you can have a varied batch of light requirement coral radiating out from the center. Visually doesn't look any less bright on the edges of my 20 long. You also can't buy the quality and selection of diodes that Dave offers on a multichip board in any other fixture. They are the latest and greatest if you were to build yourself instead of settling for cool whites like manufactured lights do for brightness. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Jedi, If I went with the HLG-80H-48A PS for 2 arrays (52w@700Ma) this would leave me room for an additional 8-9 led's (28W@700Ma). Am I calculating this correctly? Thanks Correct, power supplies are based only on wattage, but though the HLG are made to run near 100% duty for their lifespan, I would probably bump up to the HLG-100H-48. Link to comment
cichlidtx Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Correct, power supplies are based only on wattage, but though the HLG are made to run near 100% duty for their lifespan, I would probably bump up to the HLG-100H-48. Thanks, I will go with this one. Link to comment
Halo_003 Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 That is the one. I think a lot of people get carried away trying to put as much led over tanks as possible, but the normal duo does an excellent job for the main part of the tank and even gives a variance in par so you can have a varied batch of light requirement coral radiating out from the center. Visually doesn't look any less bright on the edges of my 20 long. You also can't buy the quality and selection of diodes that Dave offers on a multichip board in any other fixture. They are the latest and greatest if you were to build yourself instead of settling for cool whites like manufactured lights do for brightness. In that case I'll almost certainly just go with a Duo. Thanks so much. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Thanks for all the help guys. Just like they said above, I approve Link to comment
NanoClown Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I have a pair of Mwanwell ELN-60-48D drivers, could I use these to power up 2 of your 13up boards? I recently bought a new system that came with a DIY led fixture that uses 2 of those drivers (one for blue channel, one for white). Everything is set up to be controlled via Reefkeeper (RKM-ALC module, currently wired up to the 0V-10V A/B ports), I was hoping that I could take out all of the old leds and simply re-solder the wiring to hook up to just 2 13up boards instead. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I have a pair of Mwanwell ELN-60-48D drivers, could I use these to power up 2 of your 13up boards? Yep, it would work fine. Just be sure to limit them to ~700mA. Link to comment
cichlidtx Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Got my 2 arrays, now waiting on heatsink and PS. I can't wait to get this light setup. Thanks Dave, the arrays look great. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 So just to make sure I understand correctly each channel on the puck is 24V? So that means that if I have 2 pucks I can run them off 2 LDD's in series? Blue channel up to an LDD-700H White channel up to an LDD-1000H Power supply wise a 48V 2A is all that is needed? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 So just to make sure I understand correctly each channel on the puck is 24V? So that means that if I have 2 pucks I can run them off 2 LDD's in series? Blue channel up to an LDD-700H White channel up to an LDD-1000H Power supply wise a 48V 2A is all that is needed? I'd probably keep it to two LDD-700H. Yes, one LDD will run one channel of two boards in series, so only two LDD needed for two boards. A 48v 2A power supply gives 96 watts, give or take, and two boards will pull ~52 watts at 700mA. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 I'd probably keep it to two LDD-700H. Yes, one LDD will run one channel of two boards in series, so only two LDD needed for two boards. A 48v 2A power supply gives 96 watts, give or take, and two boards will pull ~52 watts at 700mA. Is it because they just can't handle anything past 700mA or with proper cooling can 1000H be fine? Reason I ask is because I have a lot of 1000H extras around the house but no 700H. Link to comment
basser1 Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Dave, will this work on the retro you did for me? I have your "older" 13 up boards now....... Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Is it because they just can't handle anything past 700mA or with proper cooling can 1000H be fine? Reason I ask is because I have a lot of 1000H extras around the house but no 700H. The 'white' channel can handle up to 1A, the 'blue' channel up to 800mA. I vote to limit both to 700mA for two reasons, one for heat (it's a lot of LEDs packed in a little area, the pucks are 1.5"x1.5"), and two because I doubt you'll need to run them past 700mA. Dave's own PAR measurements for his units aren't even done with both at 700mA, I believe he did them at 500mA and 600mA. Dave, will this work on the retro you did for me? I have your "older" 13 up boards now....... They'll be almost electrically identical, it'd be fine. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Just what Jedi said Is it because they just can't handle anything past 700mA or with proper cooling can 1000H be fine? Reason I ask is because I have a lot of 1000H extras around the house but no 700H. Yes sir! Dave, will this work on the retro you did for me? I have your "older" 13 up boards now....... Link to comment
Horerczy Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I thought the white channel was the one with the violet diodes. At least that's what the description in the first post leads me to believe. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Oh shit, I had it backwards. CH1 is limited to 800mA, CH2 is 1A. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I had ordered 2 pucks from Dave and while redoing my 90P planted tank today I realized I it really deserves to be a reef. How many pucks should I go for on a 36x18x18? I was thinking doing a 24" long heatsink with 3 pucks. One on each end of the heatsink and another smack in the middle. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I had ordered 2 pucks from Dave and while redoing my 90P planted tank today I realized I it really deserves to be a reef. How many pucks should I go for on a 36x18x18? I was thinking doing a 24" long heatsink with 3 pucks. One on each end of the heatsink and another smack in the middle. Four would be my minimum, IMHO. Link to comment
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