gus6464 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Four would be my minimum, IMHO. Really? That seems like a lot. So a puck every 6 inches on a 24in heatsink? Link to comment
jolee0722 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I agree with Jedimasterben on this one. I would do a minimum of 4 if not more. A quad which is dave's light fixture that I'd 24" long and has 4 pucks can cover a 36 inch tank, so I would say 4 or more. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 K cool 4 it is. Would be simpler to wire than 3 anyway since I have 1600ma LDD's from O2Surplus so I can do sets of 2 in series and then those two sets in parallel. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 K cool 4 it is. Would be simpler to wire than 3 anyway since I have 1600ma LDD's from O2Surplus so I can do sets of 2 in series and then those two sets in parallel. Just be careful with running in parallel. Put a resistor on it so if something fails as well. -Dave Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Just be careful with running in parallel. Put a resistor on it so if something fails as well. -Dave K Dave sent you a PM. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 K so I used this current limiting resistor calculator to figure out the protection circuit for running a series set of pucks in parallel so that each channel of all 4 pucks could be run off a 1600ma LDD. http://www.theledlight.com/resistancecalculator.html I added up an estimate of the voltages of the pucks and came up with this: white channel - ~21V blue channel - ~20V So based on this and doing a max limit of 1000ma on the blue channel and 750ma on the white channel it spit out an 8ohm resistor for both. Found this one at amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Mounted-Aluminum-Wirewound-Resistors/dp/B008MKZMIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=amico+8+ohm+resistor So if this is correct I would need 4 of those resistors each going to the + of each set of series channels coming from the LDD. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Wait, so you're planning on running four pucks, in parallel, from an LDD-1600L? That will give 400mA to each puck's channel. You cannot run two pucks in series on the LDD-L, you must purchase LDD-H and use 48v input for that. Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Really? That seems like a lot. So a puck every 6 inches on a 24in heatsink? Not to me. 6 would be my minimum. On the 90P. Then run them far cooler than max. For coverage, not intensity. I would still sink some fans in the heatsink, even with them running cooler. Noctua makes a 92mm by 14mm thick, will fit in a 1 inch heatsink well. And then run that low as well. They have smaller diameter 14mm fans too, for small sinks. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Noctua makes a 92mm by 14mm thick, will fit in a 1 inch heatsink well. What? 92mm is over 3.5". Link to comment
xiaoxiy Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 What? 92mm is over 3.5". I think farkwar means 1 inch thick. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I think farkwar means 1 inch thick. OHHHHHH. I see what he means now. Basically he's saying that they should buy a mill and cut the heatsink fins out to sink fans into it so they're flush on the top. Not a very cost-effective solution lol. Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 What is a CNC router? Its a router, right? Controlled by a computer. Im sure even a clumsy human controlled router can make a simple circle or square in thin aluminum fins. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17473/fan-1140/Noctua_NF9X14PWM_92_x_14mm_PWM_Fan_NF9X14PWM.html?tl=c365s1799b32&id=n49D8Fuj http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NQM7V2/ref=redir_mdp_mobile They even come with a prebuilt resistor to down voltage their speed and dB. And then you cover the top with this... http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alum2.phtml?page=Perforated%20Aluminum%20Sheet&LimAcc=%20&aident= Powdercoated or anodized to match your powdercoated or anodized heatsink. Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 And by 1" heatsink I mean the 1.3" heatsinks. Where the .3" is the base, and the fins are 1" tall. HeatsinkUSA has like 6 different sized profiles based on this 1.3 form factor(its almost a standard size). An inch is 25.4mm, so if you rout or dremel down the 14mm in the fins, you have 11.4mm for draw. Plenty of room. If you dremeled it out freehand, it could nt take but half an hour max. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Wait, so you're planning on running four pucks, in parallel, from an LDD-1600L? That will give 400mA to each puck's channel. You cannot run two pucks in series on the LDD-L, you must purchase LDD-H and use 48v input for that. I have O2Surplus' LDD chips which are 48V, 1600ma. I was planning on running 2 pucks in series and then take those two sets of pucks that are in series and run them in parallel for 800ma per channel. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I have O2Surplus' LDD chips which are 48V, 1600ma. I was planning on running 2 pucks in series and then take those two sets of pucks that are in series and run them in parallel for 800ma per channel. Ok, so they aren't LDD, you're good then. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Ok, so they aren't LDD, you're good then. Yeah haha I should have said LDD like in that they are the same size and go into LDD boards. So the 8 ohm resistor for the protection circuit is also the right one? Want to protect the set of pucks so that if one parallel'd set fails the other doesn't get the full 1600ma blast. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Yeah haha I should have said LDD like in that they are the same size and go into LDD boards. So the 8 ohm resistor for the protection circuit is also the right one? Want to protect the set of pucks so that if one parallel'd set fails the other doesn't get the full 1600ma blast. I honestly couldn't tell you anything about resistors that you'd need, but to prevent too much current if one string blows then you need fast-blow fuses that are rated for a bit more current than you're giving each string. Also, make sure that your LED PCB are on the same heatsink to help prevent thermal runaway on each parallel string. Link to comment
sangheili Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Is there a way I can run 3 of these pucks off 2 Meanwell LDDs (one per channel)? How about 4? Link to comment
sangheili Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 No and no. And just checking to make sure, I could run two of them off two LDD's, yes? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Correct. They pull too much voltage to run more than two channels in series from a single LDD. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Ok, so this is a basic list or what you need to make a complete 'kit' to run these pucks. Had the list almost 100% complete before Dave got back to me and said he was working on a list, too, but I figured I'd put this up anyways. This is not the most inexpensive way to do it, but this will arguably be about the best looking and have the best power delivery without getting much more expensive.CH1: 21.6v each puck, ~15w @ 700mACH2: 18.2v each puck, ~13w @ 700mATo run a one puck:1x Nanobox 13up board1x MakersLED heatsink, 6"2x Meanwell LDD-700H1x Coralux 5up LDD board1x MakersLED hanging kit1x Meanwell HLG-40H-481x 12v 500mA power supply (for fan)1x 4-pin to 3-pin converter (for fan)1x tube thermal pasteWire (measure how much you will need and then add 20%)This will give you an on/off array only. If you want control, you'll need to purchase a controller. You can use the Storm, Storm X, Typhon, or Bluefish.To run two pucks:2x Nanobox 13up board1x MakersLED heatsink, 12"2x Meanwell LDD-700H1x Coralux 5up LDD board1x MakersLED hanging kit1x Meanwell HLG-60H-481x 12v 500mA power supply (for fan)1x 4-pin to 3-pin converter (for fan)1x tube thermal pasteWire (measure how much you will need and then add 20%)This will give you an on/off array only. If you want control, you'll need to purchase a controller. You can use the Storm, Storm X, Typhon, or Bluefish.To run three pucks:3x Nanobox 13up board1x MakersLED heatsink, 18"4x Meanwell LDD-700H1x Coralux 5up LDD board1x MakersLED hanging kit1x Meanwell HLG-100H-481x 12v 500mA power supply (for fan)1x 4-pin to 3-pin converter (for fan)1x tube thermal pasteWire (measure how much you will need and then add 20%)This will give you an on/off array only. If you want control, you'll need to purchase a controller. You can use the Storm, Storm X, Typhon, or Bluefish.To run four pucks:4x Nanobox 13up board1x MakersLED heatsink, 24"4x Meanwell LDD-700H1x Coralux 5up LDD board1x MakersLED hanging kit1x Meanwell HLG-40H-481x 12v 500mA power supply (for fans)1x 4-pin to 3-pin converter (for fans)1x tube thermal pasteWire (measure how much you will need and then add 20%)This will give you an on/off array only. If you want control, you'll need to purchase a controller. You can use the Storm, Storm X, Typhon, or Bluefish.To run five pucks:5x Nanobox 13up board1x MakersLED heatsink, 24-36"6x Meanwell LDD-700H2x Coralux 5up LDD board1x MakersLED hanging kit1x Meanwell HLG-40H-481x 12v 500mA power supply (for fans)1-2x 4-pin to 3-pin converter (for fans) (use two if using 36" heatsink as there are three fans)1x tube thermal pasteWire (measure how much you will need and then add 20%)This will give you an on/off array only. If you want control, you'll need to purchase a controller. You can use the Storm, Storm X, Typhon, or Bluefish.To run six pucks:6x Nanobox 13up board1x MakersLED heatsink, 36-48"6x Meanwell LDD-700H2x Coralux 5up LDD board1x MakersLED hanging kit1x Meanwell HLG-185H-481x 12v 5A power supply (for fans)2x 4-pin to 3-pin converter (for fans)2x tube thermal pasteWire (measure how much you will need and then add 20%)This will give you an on/off array only. If you want control, you'll need to purchase a controller. You can use the Storm, Storm X, Typhon, or Bluefish.To run seven pucks:7x Nanobox 13up board1x MakersLED heatsink, 48"8x Meanwell LDD-700H2x Coralux 5up LDD board1x MakersLED hanging kit1x Meanwell HLG-240H-481x 12v 5A power supply (for fans)2x 4-pin to 3-pin converter (for fans)2x tube thermal pasteWire (measure how much you will need and then add 20%)This will give you an on/off array only. If you want control, you'll need to purchase a controller. You can use the Storm, Storm X, Typhon, or Bluefish.To run eight pucks:8x Nanobox 13up board1x MakersLED heatsink, 48-60"8x Meanwell LDD-700H2x Coralux 5up LDD board1x MakersLED hanging kit1x Meanwell HLG-240H-481x 12v 5A power supply (for fans)2-3x 4-pin to 3-pin converter (for fans) (use 3x if using 60" heatsink as it has five fans)2x tube thermal pasteWire (measure how much you will need and then add 20%)This will give you an on/off array only. If you want control, you'll need to purchase a controller. You can use the Storm, Storm X, Typhon, or Bluefish. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 You da man Jedi. I am finishing up the stuff as well on my end. Photos and all. -D Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Well technically you can run 4x of these pucks with 2x LDD-1000H but you would only get a max of 500ma off each puck. Basically you put them in sets of two and wire each set in series. Then you take those 2 sets that are in series and wire them in parallel to the LDD. Link to comment
gus6464 Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Today I get to finish my light and upon closer look at the pucks I noticed that both channel 2 solder points are labeled 2V+. Is it safe to assume that first two are + and last two are -? 1V+ 2V+ 2V- 1V-? Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.