fickle1 Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Quick question as I am new to the world of Bridgelux LEDs. Are the reflectors not interchangeable between the BXRA and the blues? Are the diodes not the same size? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Lol, no. Once you get into true high-powered LEDs, the reflectors are designed around a particular size - the bridgelux die is around four times the size of the Luxeon M diode. Link to comment
fickle1 Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Lol, no. Once you get into true high-powered LEDs, the reflectors are designed around a particular size - the bridgelux die is around four times the size of the Luxeon M diode. Ahh that makes much more sense now. Sorry I am from the Cree LED generation. I don't know anything about these new fangled high-powered LEDs lol. I am assuming that the Ledil reflectors that Steve sells are what I need for the blues. What is the part number for the BXRA reflectors that are self adhesive and don't required the molex base? Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 Yeah the Ledil Minnies from Steves are for the Luxeon M chips. CA11183, that's the newark part number for the reflectors that don't require a molex connector. Link to comment
Confuse Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 What do you guys think of the new ZETLight? Sort of shares the same concept as the Evil Cluster with the bridgelux array, but it's a 12K chip and 4ow with 3w LEDs surrounding it. Link to comment
Giga Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 What do you guys think of the new ZETLight? Sort of shares the same concept as the Evil Cluster with the bridgelux array, but it's a 12K chip and 4ow with 3w LEDs surrounding it. Very pretty but no where near the quality and power of an evil cluster Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 What do you guys think of the new ZETLight? Sort of shares the same concept as the Evil Cluster with the bridgelux array, but it's a 12K chip and 4ow with 3w LEDs surrounding it. Nope. Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 So disapointed Ben, you have an arsenal of Nope Gifs and you only used the word nope. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 I'm not at a computer Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 Ahhhh, I guess that's an acceptable reason. On a side note, I hate my drill with a passion, trying to drill this conduit so I can hang the light enclosure to see how everything looks, and the goddamn battery dies in about 10 minutes. I think it's time for a power drill. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Only thing I don't like about corded drills is that when you take off the tirgger they don't stop spinning, they wind down over a few seconds. Link to comment
Giga Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 you should get a hitachi with lithium batt last forever and is really worth it Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 The cordless drill I have is okay for screwing screws into wood but it's just terrible with anything metal. I do need to get a new one regardless, had a Mikita about a year ago that I loved but the sumbitch fell into the gulf. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 WTF, how did you manage that? Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 Have a few minor adjustments to do but I got the stupid thing in the air. http://s27.photobucket.com/user/DrftNme/media/IMG_0714_zpse17a318e.jpg.html'> http://s27.photobucket.com/user/DrftNme/media/IMG_0712_zps2124cc5a.jpg.html'> http://s27.photobucket.com/user/DrftNme/media/IMG_0713_zpsa440ab7b.jpg.html'> Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 WTF, how did you manage that? I was helping my dad with the boat so I had in one of the cubbys, we were out one day and I was up on the crows nest doing something, damn thing slipped out of my hands and went for a lifelong swim, same thing with my old costa del mars, the was the last time I wore sunglasses on a boat without a strap. The light isn't dead center with the middle of the tank so I may bring it forward some, or I may just forget it since I really won't have coral towards the front of the tank, it's about an inch too far back. Link to comment
Giga Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 you should hang from the cieling? Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 I thought about it actually. I might ask our apartments how they feel about it. I've already have to patch 6 holes from my previous light so I guess what's two more in the ceiling, damn thing isn't far from the ceiling as it is. Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 Quick question. Ive read around and bit and tried to find the answer but really couldn't find too much, I could have sworn Ive seen people using Cat5/6 cables in their led setups. The P/S and LDD boards are all going to be in a project box hidden in the stand. I want to run some sort of of quick disconnects coming from the LED leads to the project box which will be wired to the LDD boards so my question is, can Cat5/6 be used to connect the LEDs to the LDD board or would a molex or D-sub connectors be more fitting for this? Link to comment
Horerczy Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 I used dsub connectors myself just if you go that route don't get the high density vga style. There a pain in the ### to solder. Also a continuity check on the pins of the cable before assembly will save a lot of troubleshooting. Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 you should get a hitachi with lithium batt last forever and is really worth it Love my Hitachi lithium ion. I got the kit with the drill, impact driver & flashlight and it is awesome for house projects and fish projects. I think I'm gonna order the 950s and the non-molex reflectors from Newark today. Still 28 950-03s left. But the lead time for new molex connectors is now Oct 15th. Don't feel like waiting for that so I'll just use the non-molex style and save a little cash at the same time. edit: Now there are 24 950-03's left at Newark Link to comment
farkwar Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Quick question. Ive read around and bit and tried to find the answer but really couldn't find too much, I could have sworn Ive seen people using Cat5/6 cables in their led setups. The P/S and LDD boards are all going to be in a project box hidden in the stand. I want to run some sort of of quick disconnects coming from the LED leads to the project box which will be wired to the LDD boards so my question is, can Cat5/6 be used to connect the LEDs to the LDD board or would a molex or D-sub connectors be more fitting for this? Im using Molex MicroFit 3 for mine. Mouser carries it. RJ45 blocks are just not what I want for panel mounting. The DSub thing just looks like a royal pain and looks ugly, gives off this MADE BY RADIO SHACK vibe to me. I never could figure out if there was a common from the LDD5, so had to run 10 conductors. The 10 con ribbon cable was solid black in the Mouser catalog, bah. Link to comment
kory1006 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Molex MX150 automotive connectors are another alternative. They are also water tight. Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 Thanks for the suggestions. I really like them both actually. Any thoughts on adding some true violets into the mix? I have a spare spot on my LDD boards so I was thinking about maybe add a few 405nm violets. Link to comment
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