Full Spectrum LED tank pictures

[MeepNand]

Question for Milad, or any of the LED gurus. I really like the look of the ocean coral white LEDs so might thought was to, remove the 4 violets I have over my tank now, removed my 1000H driver and add a 500H, 4 coral white LEDs, 2 405nm TV and 2 430nm HV. I can control each channel but right now I have 1000's and I figured if the controller ever went haywire it would run the coral whites at 1000mA which is double their max mA so atleast with the 500H that's ass high as they'd ever go. Okay so that would make the final count as follows

Channel 1- 8 Cree XP-G NW

Channel 2- 14 Cree XT-E RB

Channel 3- 6 Cree XP-E B

Channel 4- 4 Ocean white LEDs, 2 403nm TV, 2 430nm HV

 

Thoughts? Oh right, this is over a 40B with the hopes of SPS.

Maybe enough for sps, but I would tack on another 2 NW and 4 RB just to be safe.

[CrazyEyes]

I mean, in all honesty I have enough light now, hell 24 LEDs is enough for SPS in a 40B, I only know this because there is a guy on RC with two 40B's growing SPS with two 24 LED lights. I just am trying to figure out how it will look.

[Paleoreef103]

Maybe enough for sps, but I would tack on another 2 NW and 4 RB just to be safe.

Over a 40 breeder? That's definitely enough for SPS. Honestly, you don't need 6 extra standard blues to go with 4 OCWs. You'd be much better off using those 6 LED slots and using them for a total of 8 HV: 2 TV: 8 NW: 14RB: 4 OCWs. It'd work just fine assuming you can make a well blended array.

[MeepNand]

Over a 40 breeder? That's definitely enough for SPS. Honestly, you don't need 6 extra standard blues to go with 4 OCWs. You'd be much better off using those 6 LED slots and using them for a total of 8 HV: 2 TV: 8 NW: 14RB: 4 OCWs. It'd work just fine assuming you can make a well blended array.

Never mind me. I though the 40 breeders dimensions were a lot larger; hence the suggestion for more leds.

However, I think he should only remove 3 of the blues; they are very good for growth too, and the OCW don't give as much light out as an actual discrete blue led.

However, your suggestion would work fine too. I don't think it would be a huge difference.

[CrazyEyes]

I'm just looking to open the spectrum up a bit. I was also thinking about using the 3up Luxeons from Steve's. For a couple reason. They run at 700ma, they're 20mm stars so that would make it a little easier. And I really just want to add to my existing string of 410-420nm violets. I know I've heard great things about the TV and HV so I might even remove my violets and go with 2 TV,2 HV and 4 3ups(Deep red, cool blue and Cyan). I'm just trying to figure out if it will look good on the same string as the TV and HV. Plus, I don't have room on any of the other string to add 4 3ups since they run between 8.5-9.2 forward voltage. So basically my only option my violet channel.

[dacdaddy]

Isn't the Steve's 3ups a minimum order of 20? Maybe we can get a group buy going. (unless you want 20 stars)

 

Edit: seems like maybe only the blank stars are 20 minimum, ok then!

[CrazyEyes]

Yeah I think it is just for the empty stars.

[Nano sapiens]

I'd like to create a simple single-channel strip of LEDs using LEDGroupbuys products as supplemental lighting, but after hours of reading I'm still not 100% sure if this will work (I'm a complete DIY LED beginner, but I'm learning)

 

(2) OCW Solderless

(2) Hyper Violet Solderless

(1) Inventronics 25w Driver (700mA)

Thermal Grease

24 gauge solid wire to connect the LEDs

(1) 12" L x 1.4" W x 1.25" H Heatsink (RapidLED)

No optics (would sit only 5" above water surface)

 

According to LEDGB's website, I'd need a Potentiometer which I would use to control the amount of power/dimming. I also read that the OCWs should be run at 500mA or less, so that would be ~75% on the Potentiometer I'd assume.

 

Anything wrong with this setup and/or am I missing anything? Thxs.

[jedimasterben]

The solderless LEDs you selected are on a different package than the old chips (new ones are square and are in the XT-E package, the old ones are round with the large domed primary lens), and this package has a better C/W rating and are thus capable of much better thermal performance, not limiting them to 500ma like the old ones.

[Nano sapiens]

The solderless LEDs you selected are on a different package than the old chips (new ones are square and are in the XT-E package, the old ones are round with the large domed primary lens), and this package has a better C/W rating and are thus capable of much better thermal performance, not limiting them to 500ma like the old ones.

 

Good to know, thanks. One last question, could this driver handle (2) additional RB or NW, or am I pushing it?

[jedimasterben]

The driver has a forward voltage of around 35v. The OCW are 9.2v each at 700ma and the HV are 3.4v each, so you've got less than 10v to work with (I wouldn't push it to the maximum, either).

[Nano sapiens]

The driver has a forward voltage of around 35v. The OCW are 9.2v each at 700ma and the HV are 3.4v each, so you've got less than 10v to work with (I wouldn't push it to the maximum, either).

 

I see now, voltage is used (I was looking for wattage). To be on the safe side, (2) OCWs (18.4v), (2) HVs (6.8v) and (1) RB (3.6v). This would make for 28.8v total @ 700mA. Considering that these are fairly powerful LEDs, I would hazard a guess that I probably won't be running these at anything higher than 500mA in my small nano.

 

Looks like I'm all set now to order the components. Thanks so much for your help, Jedimasterben.

[jedimasterben]

Wattage can be confusing if you think of all of the LEDs as being 3w. In reality, LEDs only use 3w in certain scenarios. Most '3w class' LEDs can't actually be run at 3w without damage from overheating.

 

Most people rarely run OCW very high, as it doesn't take much light from them to have the corals reflect it, and more intensity doesn't really help too much.

[Nano sapiens]

Wattage can be confusing if you think of all of the LEDs as being 3w. In reality, LEDs only use 3w in certain scenarios. Most '3w class' LEDs can't actually be run at 3w without damage from overheating.

 

Most people rarely run OCW very high, as it doesn't take much light from them to have the corals reflect it, and more intensity doesn't really help too much.

 

Even running this DIY strip with lower intensity, it should add a whole lot of PUR to my array and hopefully bring some of the red coloration back to some of my corals that turned orange.

[Moolelo]

How would this arrangement work for a small full spectrum? Took forever, but I did get through all 65 pages and there are not enough pics of how some of these different proposed arrangements turned out?

I can only run either two violets and one NW or two NW and one violet for now. Which would be better? Is the OCW and one NW enough white light?

Also would this arrangement mix colors well or should the whites move to the outside and violets where they are?

Thankfully the solderless can easily be rewired so I can always change which are wired up for now.

The long term plan is to get another driver to run whites and one for RB and HV for separate dimming, but for now I would like some feedback on colors.

[jedimasterben]

OCW do not count emit any significant amounts of light as far as PAR goes, so those are really only to add missing color.

 

Why can you only run three LEDs right now? (and the OCW star is three LEDs in itself)

 

What are you lighting?

[Moolelo]

5 gallon spec.

I am using RapidLed nano dimmable driver. So I would be limited to 10 diodes for 36V and 700ma.

I plan on getting a second one in the near to distant future to separate blue colors and white/cow colors on different dimmers.

But for now I have one led too many and need to decide which to leave unplugged, NW or HV.

Is the arrangement okay or should I switch the position of NW and HV? The light wont be so far off tank either, so I am slightly worried about colors not mixing well.

 

Edit:

Another question I should be asking is, what could I do to replicate another rapidled nano dimmable with POT for cheaper? Haha, grad student budget. X_X

[Paleoreef103]

5 gallon spec.

I am using RapidLed nano dimmable driver. So I would be limited to 10 diodes for 36V and 700ma.

I plan on getting a second one in the near to distant future to separate blue colors and white/cow colors on different dimmers.

But for now I have one led too many and need to decide which to leave unplugged, NW or HV.

Is the arrangement okay or should I switch the position of NW and HV? The light wont be so far off tank either, so I am slightly worried about colors not mixing well.

 

Edit:

Another question I should be asking is, what could I do to replicate another rapidled nano dimmable with POT for cheaper? Haha, grad student budget. X_X

Here is what I'd do. I'd run the NW, RB, and HVs all on the driver you listed and then pick up the moonlight driver for the OCW. I've been running some cool blues on the moonlight driver for quite a while and it's worked perfectly for me. Plus, it's only an extra 10 bucks and for your tank you really don't need those three LEDs being run at anything more than the 350 mA the driver provides. You'll probably want to pack your LEDs as closely as possible to minimize color shadows. Why can't you hang it any higher?

 

Also, honestly, that's about as cheap as you can go for the combination power supply, dimmer, and built in pot for a tank like this. If you were running a bigger tank with many more LEDs the LDDs become more economical, but for a single driver? Not really going to work out. Grad student budget sucks. I've been running my tank for years now on a grad student budget.

[raidendex]

Guess this thread could use some actual tank pictures

 

120g tank with two modules above. Totals - 24 xte NW, 48 xte RB, 32 HV, 10 DR, 10 T, 10 CB. All channels are at same intensity expect NW about 3-4% lower.

 

 

PAR at 60%, unmodified apogee sun readings. Blue front of the tank, Green - middle, Red - back, all at rock surfaces or sand bed. Not super high, but should be enough and I can turn it up higher if needed. Also moving the fixture back few inches would provide much higher PAR at those back higher rocks.

 

[Paleoreef103]

Guess this thread could use some actual tank pictures

 

120g tank with two modules above. Totals - 24 xte NW, 48 xte RB, 32 HV, 10 DR, 10 T, 10 CB. All channels are at same intensity expect NW about 3-4% lower.

 

 

 

PAR at 60%, unmodified apogee sun readings. Blue front of the tank, Green - middle, Red - back, all at rock surfaces or sand bed. Not super high, but should be enough and I can turn it up higher if needed. Also moving the fixture back few inches would provide much higher PAR at those back higher rocks.

 

Very nice! What is the max current you have on your fixture? Any optics? Color looks fantastic and I can't wait to see it grow out. Those numbers are probably 20-30% higher based on the LEDs you use by the way.

[raidendex]

NW, RB, CB have 80 degree optics, HV 60 degree. Fixture is about 12" above water line.

 

NW and RB ran by ldd1000, rest ldd700

[Nano sapiens]

Need some assistance, please...

 

My 'strip of LEDs' build is going well and I've started wiring. For the OCWs, they have (3) connectors lined up on the edge of the board, one for each LED, but no '+' or '-' sign (all I see is '1', '2' and '3'). Is this just a 'trial and error' process with these OCWs whereby one connects one way, and if not working, tries the other? Or is there a better way to determine plus and minus?

[MeepNand]

Need some assistance, please...

 

My 'strip of LEDs' build is going well and I've started wiring. For the OCWs, they have (3) connectors lined up on the edge of the board, one for each LED, but no '+' or '-' sign (all I see is '1', '2' and '3'). Is this just a 'trial and error' process with these OCWs whereby one connects one way, and if not working, tries the other? Or is there a better way to determine plus and minus?

Mulitmeters have diode checkers on them. If you align the led correctly, then it will emit a glow that is easy to see. If you don't, then try the other way.

[Chew_Magna]

40b with one Ledtric par38 full spectrum and one OCReef par38 full spectrum, no optics.

 

 

Nothing is reaching, I have 3 sps in here that are all doing fine.

 

Future plan is to add another Ledtric bulb just to even out the tone.

[Nano sapiens]

Mulitmeters have diode checkers on them. If you align the led correctly, then it will emit a glow that is easy to see. If you don't, then try the other way.

 

Thanks for the tip. Looks like I managed to get lucky and got it right the first time