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Full Spectrum LED tank pictures


Milad LEDGroupBuy.com

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Paleoreef103

These two photosystems can only take in so much light. While the 430nm chips have their peak at around 428nm (precisely at the peak of chlorophyll a), they do touch on the 410-ish-nm shoulder of chlorophyll a. But again, the photosystem is limited in how much it can absorb, and because of such, I would recommend sticking to the higher-nm chips.

 

Royal blue and blue LEDs do two very different - one is photosynthetically significant, one is aesthetically significant. Efficiency doesn't have anything to do with it - blue LEDs put out more light than royal blue LEDs do, at least to us, it takes several royal blue LEDs to appear as 'bright' as a single blue LED. Comparing that to the low-violet range is apples and oranges.

If the only thing you're going for is reaching photoinhibition, you're correct, but by neglecting anything below 430 you are also neglecting plenty of excitation range for proteins including fluorescing proteins. If you're actually going for a full spectrum approach using some 405s won't hurt and will likely help.

 

That's not the way I was comparing royal blues and blues to true and hyper violets. You know how blues and cyans bring out different colors than royal blues alone do? It's because they're exciting different proteins or the same proteins in different ways. Same thing is happening with hyper violets and true violets. My point was that a 25nm difference in peak spectral output is going to stimulate corals in a different way.

 

That being said, a multi-chip violet set up to go into a evil cluster would be absolutely astonishing.

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Paleoreef103

Is this still the right layout for a 40B for full spectrum LED's? (taken from: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/311998-full-spectrum-led-layouts/). Going to make something for my 40B :scarry: :scarry: :eek:

I'd say there are wrong layouts, but right layouts come down to personal preference. Will that work for a 40 breeder? Definitely. I'd probably go with an extra 2-4 violets (Jedi will say all hyper violets, I'll say go 3:1 hyper to true). Other layouts that would work very well for a tank like that would be to go with two clusters of 4 NW: 8 RB: 2 Warm Whites: 1-2 Cyan: 2-4 standard blue: 6 Hyper: 2 True. Still another possibility would be to clusters of Bridgelux 950 4k White: 3 Luxeon M RB: 3 standard blues: 1-2 Cyans: 6 hyper: 2 true violets and hang that beast from the ceiling. Just make it easily controllable so that you can adjust it to your liking. In the end, it's up to you.

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jedimasterben

I thought i read in one of your older posts that 410nm is more important for keeping clams. Do you still feel this is true?

 

Either way, if Milad made a 9 diode hyper violet that would still be pretty amazing.

Not particularly, it's 450nm that is more important (around that, anyway, like 446-452nm), since they have a crapton of chlorophyll c.

 

Is this still the right layout for a 40B for full spectrum LED's? (taken from: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/311998-full-spectrum-led-layouts/). Going to make something for my 40B :scarry: :scarry: :eek:Figure%206.png

I'd do evil clusters. :)

 

If the only thing you're going for is reaching photoinhibition, you're correct, but by neglecting anything below 430 you are also neglecting plenty of excitation range for proteins including fluorescing proteins. If you're actually going for a full spectrum approach using some 405s won't hurt and will likely help.

Fluorescing proteins don't need a lot of light to do their thing, and the 430nm do touch on pretty much the entire violet range.

 

That being said, a multi-chip violet set up to go into a evil cluster would be absolutely astonishing.

This, and they would probably need to come with a pair of pants. :lol:

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Goodness. I built my full spectrum LED fixture 8 months ago, upgraded it 3 months ago when Hyper Violets came out, now I feel like its out dated again and I need to build a fresh brand new cannon!

 

Damn technology!

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Not particularly, it's 450nm that is more important (around that, anyway, like 446-452nm), since they have a crapton of chlorophyll c.

 

I'd do evil clusters. :)

 

Fluorescing proteins don't need a lot of light to do their thing, and the 430nm do touch on pretty much the entire violet range.

 

This, and they would probably need to come with a pair of pants. :lol:

Do you have a link to the evil cluster layout and such? I'm pretty newb at this. Trying to wrap my head around it.

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jedimasterben

There's a link in my sig with more information. That should get you on the right track, and if you need any more help, just PM me about it. I haven't made a thread with recommended layouts and such yet.

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WalrusKisses

I'm leaning more and more towards LED's, as I'm sick of the heat output and lovely browning effect of the PC's in my 14 gallon Biocube. I want to get the retrofit kit, and the stock light ratio is 9- Royal Blue Luxeon ES 3 watt LEDs to 5- 5,000K Neutral White Luxeon ES 3 watt LEDs - Full Spectrum White LEDs. Should I go with this standard, and if not, what combo would you guys suggest?

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Paleoreef103

I'm leaning more and more towards LED's, as I'm sick of the heat output and lovely browning effect of the PC's in my 14 gallon Biocube. I want to get the retrofit kit, and the stock light ratio is 9- Royal Blue Luxeon ES 3 watt LEDs to 5- 5,000K Neutral White Luxeon ES 3 watt LEDs - Full Spectrum White LEDs. Should I go with this standard, and if not, what combo would you guys suggest?

Neutral Whites are not full-spectrum LEDs. For a biocube 14 I'd probably go with something like 3- Neutral whites, 6 Royal Blues, 1 Standard Blues, 1 OCW, and 4 Hyper Violets.

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WalrusKisses

Neutral Whites are not full-spectrum LEDs. For a biocube 14 I'd probably go with something like 3- Neutral whites, 6 Royal Blues, 1 Standard Blues, 1 OCW, and 4 Hyper Violets.

Hm, it looks like they (Steve'sLed's) don't have the OCW, and I don't have the tools or know how to go with anything other than the plug-and-play kit. Is there anything else (combo or otherwise) that is up to snuff with the Ocean Coral Whites?

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WalrusKisses

Use a 2:4:1 ratio of 4000K to RB to CB.

So for the 14g array, it would be 4-4k Neutral White, 8-Royal Blue, and 2- Cool Blue? I don't need any crazy hyperviolet or anything?

 

I mainly want a combo that will give the best color without sacrificing growth, but in a 14 I don't really feel that it's necessary to optimize growth either.

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Question on the Lumia. I know it's full spectrum. I assume its plenty powerful enough to use on mixed reefs? Keep any coral I like. How about clams?

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Question on the Lumia. I know it's full spectrum. I assume its plenty powerful enough to use on mixed reefs? Keep any coral I like. How about clams?

I don't think it will be a problem assuming proper placement is done and the tank isn't too deep.

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jedimasterben

Question on the Lumia. I know it's full spectrum. I assume its plenty powerful enough to use on mixed reefs? Keep any coral I like. How about clams?

I don't think it will be a problem assuming proper placement is done and the tank isn't too deep.

This. I can't tell you that in EVERY situation the Lumia will keep clams going, but it will in most. These things are pretty beastly.

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4 True Violet 2 Neutral White 2 Cool Blue 2 Cyan 6 Royal Blue 5 Warm White 3 Cool White

The 3 CW and 3 of the WW are going over the fuge, the rest are going on the DT.

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This. I can't tell you that in EVERY situation the Lumia will keep clams going, but it will in most. These things are pretty beastly.

Awesome. I don't have any clams and I'm not in the market for one. But I like to keep my options open.

 

I don't think it will be a problem assuming proper placement is done and the tank isn't too deep.

The tank is a standard 75 gallon. It's about 19" deep. Placement is my another question I have. How high above the tank should they be placed? Was hoping for about 6".

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  • 2 weeks later...

Question for Milad, or any of the LED gurus. I really like the look of the ocean coral white LEDs so might thought was to, remove the 4 violets I have over my tank now, removed my 1000H driver and add a 500H, 4 coral white LEDs, 2 405nm TV and 2 430nm HV. I can control each channel but right now I have 1000's and I figured if the controller ever went haywire it would run the coral whites at 1000mA which is double their max mA so atleast with the 500H that's ass high as they'd ever go. Okay so that would make the final count as follows

Channel 1- 8 Cree XP-G NW

Channel 2- 14 Cree XT-E RB

Channel 3- 6 Cree XP-E B

Channel 4- 4 Ocean white LEDs, 2 403nm TV, 2 430nm HV

 

Thoughts? Oh right, this is over a 40B with the hopes of SPS.

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