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LED Aesthetics: What do you really think of your color?


Machupicchu

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After reading Milad's observations that RB, Turquoise, and Deep Red make a bright white light when combined, I agree that I will need some more blue. The question is 2 or 4 more RB? If I went with 2 more RB for a total of 8 the end result would be:

 

4 Cool White 6500K

2 Neutral White 4500K

2 Deep Red 660nm

 

8 Royal Blue 455nm

2 Turquoise 495nm

4 True Violet 420nm

 

I can always balance by dimming one array a bit but the reds and turquoise might make for some weird color balance issues if I have to dim one array too much.

 

Try it and keep us updated.

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Does anyone know where to get custom 3or 4 up boards made like dave's?

I've been wondering the same thing, i think you just have to call around. I think dave got his from dynazine?

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I was looking at the cree LEDs and I dont see any CW warmer than 6500K.

 

Cool White XP-G's that RapidLED is selling right now are certainly warmer than 6500k. I'd put them between 5000-5500k. I loaded up a bunch on my house plant light-bar, and the color difference -vs- cold white XP-Es is huge. Gorgeous color for a cool-white.

 

Which is actually a good thing given we're getting such high efficiency numbers from realistic color temps, and warmish cool-white make for better a better base color.

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Your balance is about right, but why not put the whites and the exotic trio on one driver and the blues+violets on the other. Keep in mind that the trio mixes to a white which means you really don't need much of the white LEDs. I'd probably go with:

Driver 1: 4 cool white: 2 neutral white, 2 deep red, 2 royal blues, 2 turquoise.

Driver 2: 8 royal blues 4 True violets with an optional 2 Standard Blues

The advantage here is that you can always have the deep red, royal blues, and turquoise LEDs in perfect balance.

 

That's pretty smart. I didn't plan on using standard blue as I was under the impression the turquoise would be adequate. Do you think I would even notice the standard blues?

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That's pretty smart. I didn't plan on using standard blue as I was under the impression the turquoise would be adequate. Do you think I would even notice the standard blues?

I'd say they couldn't hurt. Dave uses a ratio of 5 RB to 2 standard blue. 10 total royal blues, 2 Turquoise, and 2 standard blues would put you a similar ratio.

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How are we supposed to make an led board from an arduino?

 

Oops, sorry the link title should have read 'DorkbotPDX PCB Order' but it led to the correct spot. It's a group buy on custom designed PCBs by square inch. You'll have to draw your own boards, source the components, and solder them yourself but that's pretty straight forward. There are other services like ExpressPCB or Pad2Pad that might be a better fit depending on the size of your boards and the level of assembly you want to pay for.

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I've had this ratio for months but using my single LED's. The 13up is only better with the LED's being much closer. The photo's above are the exact same ratio minus one deep red.

Here are tanks with the exact same ratio as the 13Up.

6784939617_cda62657cf.jpg

6654395059_322fb3a0b8.jpg

6654395195_d5a4447bc9.jpg

6654393507_1a03d0e435.jpg

6654394223_731acba414.jpg

 

-Dave

 

Hi Dave,

 

Wow those photographs are beautiful!!!! So Im in the middle of a build, and Im about to finally purchase my LED's and I keep holding off because im unsure which whites to buy. It seems that there is a large variation in color temp withing the "cool whites" or "neutral whites" for that matter.

 

To take the guess work out for me, i was wondering if you can provide me with the specific "Cool whites and neutral whites you are using? I remember reading that you said the cree whites are not efficient and you recommneded using something other than cree. Can you provide the manufacturer and part number of the whites you are using? If you are not comfortable posting them on here, you can shoot me an email if you dont mind.

 

Thanks,

Mike

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In all its glory! CW,NW,DR are in a series. I found this to be the best way to run them without a million drivers. The Blue, Royal blues are also in series together. This combo looks incredible and is by far the easiest thing to wire. The modules can also be ran in a parallel with each other for monster builds. Using a Burquest Gap Pad instead of messy thermal grease/epoxy or thermal tape. This stuff is extremely easy to use and also can be pulled off easily if needed. The overall size is 2.9"x1.5".

6738433607_a176f1ba3a.jpg

 

Enjoy!

 

-Dave

Sent you a message on your site. Curious of the amount of work it would take to remove the Edison Opto 6 x 3W modules (4 total, 2 blue and 2 white) and replace them with 2 of these. The Nanotuners 4.6 Kit shipped with a large heat sink and their Duo 700 dual channel controller. Would prefer to keep everything and just remove the Edison Opto modules if the Duo 700 dual channel controller can drive these.

 

Thanks

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Sent you a message on your site. Curious of the amount of work it would take to remove the Edison Opto 6 x 3W modules (4 total, 2 blue and 2 white) and replace them with 2 of these. The Nanotuners 4.6 Kit shipped with a large heat sink and their Duo 700 dual channel controller. Would prefer to keep everything and just remove the Edison Opto modules if the Duo 700 dual channel controller can drive these.

 

Thanks

It should. TRD drivers used in the Duo 700 can drive 15 3W LEDs. If you put the blues on one channel and the whites on the other, you'll have 12 on one driver and 14 on the other.

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Mike - Because I am a nice guy.... ;)

CW - 5000-5300

NW - 4000-4300

 

I prefer the Rebel ES line. I also have these in stock.

 

Navy - It will be extremely easy. Drill twelve new holes, install modules, re-wire and tada!

 

-Dave

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I've had this ratio for months but using my single LED's. The 13up is only better with the LED's being much closer. The photo's above are the exact same ratio minus one deep red.

Here are tanks with the exact same ratio as the 13Up.

6784939617_cda62657cf.jpg

6654395059_322fb3a0b8.jpg

6654395195_d5a4447bc9.jpg

6654393507_1a03d0e435.jpg

6654394223_731acba414.jpg

 

-Dave

 

 

dave,

 

is this how they look to the naked eye? or is that just how the camera takes it? or have the pic's been enhanced/post processed?

 

it looks nice.

 

thanks.

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Milad had some really nice 5000k cree XM-L's on his site for a while, but they are gone now, atleast i think the new ones are different. I used those by themselves and it worked really well, not too purple like most nw/rb builds, but next time I would add one or two Cool whites.

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dave,

 

is this how they look to the naked eye? or is that just how the camera takes it? or have the pic's been enhanced/post processed?

 

it looks nice.

 

thanks.

 

 

IIRC...... Those pics are from Rehypes' tank thread. At the time he was using one of Daves' Nano-Box fixtures. As far as I know I don't think there was any photo touching done.

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Milad LEDGroupBuy.com
Milad had some really nice 5000k cree XM-L's on his site for a while, but they are gone now, atleast i think the new ones are different. I used those by themselves and it worked really well, not too purple like most nw/rb builds, but next time I would add one or two Cool whites.

 

They are still kicking around: http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/cree-xm-l-white/

 

XTE 4500K and 6000K are Incoming, not as good as the XML but similar to the XPG

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The photo's are as true as they can be! With those being from different peoples tanks ( mine included ) everyone has there setting a little different.

 

-Dave

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They are still kicking around: http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/cree-xm-l-white/

 

XTE 4500K and 6000K are Incoming, not as good as the XML but similar to the XPG

 

How are they not "as good" as the XML? The XTE is more efficient and they cost like 1/3 the price. The XML has to be driven pretty hard to get a price benefit out of it although it's a better deal in neutral -vs- cold white.

 

The photo's are as true as they can be!

 

Keeping it real like I always do: I've listen to Trick about a million times call NW based tanks too purple and I've tried to defend the combo to the point I've given up replying - don't turn your %^&*ing royals up so screaming high and it's not a problem. Now we have pictures that in my opinion are poster children for exactly what Trick is complaining about.

 

The only way to get zoa skirts to glow like those in the pictures is to have RB cranked up to absurd levels, and you know that Dave. The color has nothing to do with 660nm or any other LED color. RB has been jacked up to get radioactive colors, and whites have been dialed up to compensate. When online coral sellers do this with softies is drives most of us nuts because we know the colors are fake.

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