LED Aesthetics: What do you really think of your color?

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

So what is the standard "full spectrum" ratio of mixing in the T/DR in with the 3up stars?

 

10:5:3:2 (RB:NW:T:DR)

This is what im suggestion (or something close to it). There is still lots of experimentation going on with this.

[mrg02d]

Has anyone got pictures to compare a "full spectrum" tank to one that only uses RB and NW? Seems that NW might be pretty close to Deep Red/Turquoise combos. Since the combo produces white light, how does it compare to a regular NW led?

 

Also, anyone able to take pictures of their True Violet LEDs? It would be neat to see the appearance of TV vs RB.

 

I like the blue tank look, but would like to have my corals colors pop more. Some corals dont fluoresce as much as others and look dull with my RB/CW combo. Id like more color without losing the blue tank look (20k look, right?)

 

Matt

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

Has anyone got pictures to compare a "full spectrum" tank to one that only uses RB and NW? Seems that NW might be pretty close to Deep Red/Turquoise combos. Since the combo produces white light, how does it compare to a regular NW led?

 

Also, anyone able to take pictures of their True Violet LEDs? It would be neat to see the appearance of TV vs RB.

 

I like the blue tank look, but would like to have my corals colors pop more. Some corals dont fluoresce as much as others and look dull with my RB/CW combo. Id like more color without losing the blue tank look (20k look, right?)

 

Matt

 

Some full spectrum pictures.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=0#entry3740354

[basslbbig]

I got a dumb question, I thought the Aquastyle kits uses Bridgelux LED's? Am I missing something??

 

I was thinking the same thing.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

I was thinking the same thing.

 

There is a difference between a Bridgelux chip and a Bridgelux LED.

 

So the white light you get out of a 4500K LED is really a blue LED with a phosphorus layer. To clarify that even more, its a blue LED chip with a phosphorus layer that equals a white LED. Depending on how well that phosphorus layer is designed gives the efficient/true light/color.

 

This means we can take a CREE LED chip and add the layer and package it up as a CREE LED but its really just the chip with our "flavor". A CREE chip + a CREE phosphorus layer = XML/XTE/XPG etc. Its the whole package.

 

Another way to explain it is cars. For instance a Dodge Stealth is really a Mitsubishi 3000GT with some dodge designers input. The engine is important which determines how fast it goes but if the dodge designer put a big fat wing on the back and reduced the aerodynamics, even though its really a Mitsubishi its not going to go as fast.

[jfarabaugh]

For instance a Dodge Stealth is really a Mitsubishi 3000GT with some dodge designers input. The engine is important which determines how fast it goes but if the dodge designer put a big fat wing on the back and reduced the aerodynamics, even though its really a Mitsubishi its not going to go as fast.

 

[mrg02d]

Hey guys, how many here feel they can see a difference when they added TV (420nm) leds to their tank? Im looking to add more color, but have a feeling that the TV wont be noticeable up against a bunch of RB leds. Anyone got their TV on a separate string that they can turn on and off for comparison?

 

Im considering removing some CW in favor of NW and then adding some more RB (or maybe CB?)

 

Ive got 12RB and 9CW. Ive got the CW dimmed down to nearly nothing since there are so many...I want more color, but without losing the 20k look. If TV DOES add a noticeable effect, then I could replace CW for NW and TV.

 

Matt

[Orangutran]

There is a difference between a Bridgelux chip and a Bridgelux LED.

 

So the white light you get out of a 4500K LED is really a blue LED with a phosphorus layer. To clarify that even more, its a blue LED chip with a phosphorus layer that equals a white LED. Depending on how well that phosphorus layer is designed gives the efficient/true light/color.

 

This means we can take a CREE LED chip and add the layer and package it up as a CREE LED but its really just the chip with our "flavor". A CREE chip + a CREE phosphorus layer = XML/XTE/XPG etc. Its the whole package.

 

Another way to explain it is cars. For instance a Dodge Stealth is really a Mitsubishi 3000GT with some dodge designers input. The engine is important which determines how fast it goes but if the dodge designer put a big fat wing on the back and reduced the aerodynamics, even though its really a Mitsubishi its not going to go as fast.

 

LOL cool thanks for clarifying! So Aquastyle is a Dodge, and Bridgelux is a Mitsubishi! I guess you get what you pay for. I am not dissing Aquastyle though, just wanted to find out about their product, cus in the end, I may just get their kit anyway (for their simplicity+pricing). Would love to see what other findings blasterman posts!

[GTi]

10:5:3:2 (RB:NW:T:DR)

This is what im suggestion (or something close to it). There is still lots of experimentation going on with this.

Hi. I have a 3.7 gallon cube 9.5" x 9.5" footprint. I'm considering a DIY LED project using the EcoPico LED lighot bracket to mount the LEDs on. Would 2RB:1NW:1T:1R look good or should I change the ratios or just stick with 4RB:2NW?

 

Also, will I be able to get away without using optics?

 

Thanks!

[Zeadon]

what happened to evilc? havent seen anything from him in a while

[basser1]

what happened to evilc? havent seen anything from him in a while

 

 

Been wondering the same thing!

 

I see him post occassionally on reef-builders.

 

He was the "lighting guru" around here!

[blasterman]

Evil's around - I bounce stuff off him once or twice a week. I really want to get people to try his 'Evil-cluster' with bigger builds, but it seems lately there's more interest in buying really cheap LEDs and lights and then people declaring how LED's suck because the color isn't good. They then ride off on their straw horse back to halides. Rant / off. I don't know how he kept his sanity, although I didn't help at times.

 

Depending on how well that phosphorus layer is designed gives the efficient/true light/color.

 

Hence the problem. Bridgelux makes cheap 3watt blue LED chips, but from there nobody really knows how the 'white' versions arrive at Aquastyle, etc. Like I said in my tests and in several posts; the biggest problem with cheap Asian LEDs is the color, not the performance. The phosphors they are using are typically poor rip-offs they try to reverse engineer from other plants, and the results are what you expect. I have a brand new 1000lumen Bridgelux with their lastest phosphor set, and that thing is amazing on a tank, and it's over 100lumens per watt efficient. The Aquastyles I tested look nothing like it and the color results on a reef tank are a clear win for the Bridgelux. A royal is a royal and a red is a red, but if you want the best color from LEDs you need to use the premium white emitters; aka the larger name brand Bridgelux, XP-Gs, XM-Ls, non ANSI rebels, etc. I don't know why more people aren't running the XM-L up to 2.5 amps (or more) and circling them royals. Killer build, and saves a lot of complexity.

[racerfreak]

I'm running 4x 1w TV led's will I notice a difference if I switch to 4x 3w TV led's? I'm thinking yes but want to make sure. Is there a TV led that is best to go with?

[sliceOreef]

Evil's around - I bounce stuff off him once or twice a week. I really want to get people to try his 'Evil-cluster' with bigger builds, but it seems lately there's more interest in buying really cheap LEDs and lights and then people declaring how LED's suck because the color isn't good. They then ride off on their straw horse back to halides. Rant / off. I don't know how he kept his sanity, although I didn't help at times.

 

 

 

Hence the problem. Bridgelux makes cheap 3watt blue LED chips, but from there nobody really knows how the 'white' versions arrive at Aquastyle, etc. Like I said in my tests and in several posts; the biggest problem with cheap Asian LEDs is the color, not the performance. The phosphors they are using are typically poor rip-offs they try to reverse engineer from other plants, and the results are what you expect. I have a brand new 1000lumen Bridgelux with their lastest phosphor set, and that thing is amazing on a tank, and it's over 100lumens per watt efficient. The Aquastyles I tested look nothing like it and the color results on a reef tank are a clear win for the Bridgelux. A royal is a royal and a red is a red, but if you want the best color from LEDs you need to use the premium white emitters; aka the larger name brand Bridgelux, XP-Gs, XM-Ls, non ANSI rebels, etc. I don't know why more people aren't running the XM-L up to 2.5 amps (or more) and circling them royals. Killer build, and saves a lot of complexity.

 

Have you tried mixing in the cyan and red with any of the aquastyle whites? I know you want to keep it simple but in my experience the color seems great. I did not try the whites from aquastyle by themselves but I do have a couple groups of cyan, royal blue, and red wired into my aquastyle white circuit with good results. I don't have a side by side comparison with the bridgelux you are so fond of but I'm curious to see the look. Which bridegelux are you talking about specifically? The NW from the ES series? I might buy a few and wire them into my array so I can do a side by side. I'd be driving at .680 amps. I'll just have to use some of those adhesive thermal pads for a temporary solution.

 

I think there might be more than one way to arrive at a desirable color balance, the question is what is the simplest most cost effective way. If the bridgelux NW LED achieves something similar to what a cluster of 4 or 5 aquastyle LEDs does, well then I'm sold.

[GTi]

Hi. I have a 3.7 gallon cube 9.5" x 9.5" footprint. I'm considering a DIY LED project using the EcoPico LED lighot bracket to mount the LEDs on. Would 2RB:1NW:1T:1R look good or should I change the ratios or just stick with 4RB:2NW?

 

Also, will I be able to get away without using optics?

 

Thanks!

Anyone? Thanks!

[sliceOreef]

Hi. I have a 3.7 gallon cube 9.5" x 9.5" footprint. I'm considering a DIY LED project using the EcoPico LED lighot bracket to mount the LEDs on. Would 2RB:1NW:1T:1R look good or should I change the ratios or just stick with 4RB:2NW?

 

Also, will I be able to get away without using optics?

 

Thanks!

 

2RB:1NW:1T:1R would end up very white. You'd need to add 1-2 more blue for this to work. With an array this small I think you would be better off going with some quality NW LEDs in the 4RB:2NW ratio. Blasterman has some good experience with various NW LEDs. Check his post a few up from here for recommendations.

[androidx1]

Ok...Thanks to much help from Milad (LEDGROUPBUY), Dave, and a few others on here....I have purchased my LED's, Heat Sink, Drivers, Controller (Arduino), wires, solder, thermal past....etc. And Im finally about to start the build!!!!

 

I am planning on two banks of lights arranged as shown below. They will be built into my RSM130 hood so they will only be an inch or so off of the water surface (thus no optics). Each bank of lights will consist of the following:

 

1. Channel 1: 6 - Cree XTE Royal Blue @ 0.7amps

2. Channel 2: 4 Cree XPG Cool Whites R2 (5000K) and 2 Cree XPG Neutral Whites R2 (4000K) @ 1.0amps

3. Channel 3: 2 Cree XPE Cool Blue (465~485nm) @ 0.7amps

4. Channel 4: 1 Osram Deep Red (660nm) @ 0.7amps

5. Channel 5: 2 True Violet (420nm) @ 0.5amps

 

Again, there will be two banks of lights each containing the above number of leds.

 

The arrangement for the bank of lights I am thinking of using is as follows:

 

Let me now what you all think and if I am way off on anything. Thanks!!!

Doc3.pdf

[gbru316]

What drivers are you using?

 

Most require a minimum number of LED's per driver to function. I haven't seem any popular drivers that will only fire 1 or 2 LED's on a string.

[GTi]

2RB:1NW:1T:1R would end up very white. You'd need to add 1-2 more blue for this to work. With an array this small I think you would be better off going with some quality NW LEDs in the 4RB:2NW ratio. Blasterman has some good experience with various NW LEDs. Check his post a few up from here for recommendations.

Thanks for the input - appreciate it. I did the 2RB:1NW with a couple of blue and violet thrown in on my BC29 build and am fairly pleased with it. I think the size is very limiting on this build!

[androidx1]

What drivers are you using?

 

Most require a minimum number of LED's per driver to function. I haven't seem any popular drivers that will only fire 1 or 2 LED's on a string.

 

 

Im using buckpucks. the minimm number of led's i will be running on one buckpuck is two of the osram reds. I know Dave gave me advice not to use buckpucks....but it was the only way I could think of running this with 5 dimmable channels.

[Ryan110484]

Was wondering if anyone could tell me if I am in the ball park for a 10-14k color. Preferably more in the 10-12k range. Here is the list of the following LEDs I would like to use.

 

8 NW xm-l at 1A

24 RB xt-e at 500mA

4 Blue at 500mA

2 Turquoise

2 Deep Red

(the turquoise and DR will be dialed way back to make sure they don't over power and I would like to try them out to see what happens with the coral colors)

4 Violet at 500mA

 

Will this be too blue? I prefer a bright crisp white with a hint of blue. What should be changed?

[Trick]

Was wondering if anyone could tell me if I am in the ball park for a 10-14k color. Preferably more in the 10-12k range. Here is the list of the following LEDs I would like to use.

 

8 NW xm-l at 1A

24 RB xt-e at 500mA

4 Blue at 500mA

2 Turquoise

2 Deep Red

(the turquoise and DR will be dialed way back to make sure they don't over power and I would like to try them out to see what happens with the coral colors)

4 Violet at 500mA

 

Will this be too blue? I prefer a bright crisp white with a hint of blue. What should be changed?

It should be ok i think. You can always turn the blues down right?

[land_lubber]

Was wondering if anyone could tell me if I am in the ball park for a 10-14k color. Preferably more in the 10-12k range. Here is the list of the following LEDs I would like to use.

 

8 NW xm-l at 1A

24 RB xt-e at 500mA

4 Blue at 500mA

2 Turquoise

2 Deep Red

(the turquoise and DR will be dialed way back to make sure they don't over power and I would like to try them out to see what happens with the coral colors)

4 Violet at 500mA

 

Will this be too blue? I prefer a bright crisp white with a hint of blue. What should be changed?

 

Where are you buying them from? I think you have too many blues for a 14k, I think you'll have more of a 20k. I have a aquastyles kit and have 19 RB, 6 10k, 4 4500k, 5 6500k and 4 TV. That gives me a 14k look with a slight actinic hue. If I dim the blues I can get a 10k look as well.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

Where are you buying them from? I think you have too many blues for a 14k, I think you'll have more of a 20k. I have a aquastyles kit and have 19 RB, 6 10k, 4 4500k, 5 6500k and 4 TV. That gives me a 14k look with a slight actinic hue. If I dim the blues I can get a 10k look as well.

 

Huge difference in your LEDs and his XML

The whites are are much much much more efficient so they are going to produce alot more light for less thats why hes got the number of Royal Blue. Otherwise he would be something like 24-30 whites and 24 RB if he was using the whites you mentioned.

 

So he should land around 14-15K.

[M@rine_lover]

Im using buckpucks. the minimm number of led's i will be running on one buckpuck is two of the osram reds. I know Dave gave me advice not to use buckpucks....but it was the only way I could think of running this with 5 dimmable channels.

 

Buckpucks not reliable?

 

I'm thinking of 2 flexblocks for my new LED project !