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ZZ9 Plural Z Alpha


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Sorry. For some reason I couldn't access my photo bucket account to upload any images so I kinda forgot to come back the next day. =) You know how it is with life and such.

 

News about the tank? No, none really. Water keeps flowing as usual with the occasional water change. No new fishes, a couple of new corals yes, but a promise of a potentially massive light upgrade.. I've long been planning this DIY light fixture with a fellow reefer and shortly after christmas I should have all the pieces together for some heavy assembling.

 

Light stats:

- 300W LED

- 5 independent channels

- Custom made 10x3W PCB's

- CNC routed unibody aluminiun cooling unit

- 2x200mm (8") fans 700rpm (dead silent)

 

Oh and here's some fisheye pictures for you:

Please try not to mind the messed up white balance. :lol:

 

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So it's details you're just after. Greedy bastard. Why not just rejoice the fact one has something new for once. :haha: Seriously though, I hope none got their knickers in a twist over that. :)

 

Ok. The light has 140 LEDs in 5 independent channels producing maximum of ~360W of light (3,75V and 700mA)

 

1. Bridgelux 10kK (BXCE4545452-G1-B )

2. Epistar 445-455nm (ES--CABLV45)

3. Epileds 400-410nm & 410-430nm (EP-U4545K-A3)

4. Epistar 465-475nm (ES--CADBV45P)

5. Bridgelux 15kK (BXCE4545452-G1-B )

 

It comes down to 14 of these little self designed and custom made PCBs. Minimum order was 1m2 of PCB so it's not worth it just for one nano tank though. ;)

 

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And here's a rough early sketch. You might notice the square fans here were replaced with more discreet/sleek round ones in the final product.

 

file_zpsfbc4e6e2.jpg

 

Other than that it will be controlled with a separate arduino based unit.

 

Light fixture

1. 1 x 362x35x1200mm alumiiniprofile

2. 1 x 412x10x1300mm acrylic edgeplate

3. 2 x Arcadia hanging kit

4. 2 x BitFenix Spectre 200mm fan

5. 14 x 120x120mm aluminium PCB

6. 140 x LED (10kK, 15kK, 445-455nm, 465-475nm, 410-430nm)

 

Electrics

1. 1 x 400W 48V/8.3A power IP67 (

2. 10 x MeanWell LDD-700H driver

3. 2 x 100x100mm PCBs for LDDs

4. 20 x 3.5mm screw terminal

5. 1 x 12V/1A power unit

6. 10 x 10xAWG22 cable

7. 30 x 0.6mm wiring

8. 10 x 10k 1206 resistors

 

Controller

1. 1 x Arduino Uno

2. 1 x DS1307 RTC

3. 1 x 16x2 LCD

4. 1 x i2C LCD controller

5. 2 x DS18B20 temperature probe

6. 1 x 12-bit 16-chan PWM controller

7. 1 x 5V relay module

8. 1 x Rotary encoder

9. n x wires, protoboards & misc. stuff

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jedimasterben

Whoa, that thing is gonna be beefy!

 

I would consider ditching the high-kelvin whites, though. At that point, they have almost no remote phosphor and are emitting almost only 450nm light.

 

(especially coming from your current light, the KR93 uses 4000K whites, any higher than that and you start to lose color and the tank has a 'cold', harsh look to it)

 

(edit: yours looks like the older KR93 that has '12K' white and royal blue only, so it won't necessarily be much different except for more fluorescent excitation due to wider coverage of blue and violet spectra)

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jedimasterben

I was meaning spectrum, not the look, most people end up losing non-fluorescent colors in corals (specifically reds in some LPS and SPS) without using warm whites as a base.

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In my corner of the world most people have never heard of such, let alone witnessed it. But thanks for the heads up.

My current Eco Lamps fixture utilizes 14kK whites and not 12kK (if that even makes a difference) and IMO 10kK is a bit on the warm side of white.

We contemplated whether to or not use even wider spectrum of whites and blues, but chose to keep this relatively simple and straightforward without any reds or greens. If need/want be, they can later be incorporated intone existing system.

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jedimasterben

There's a couple of old threads around here that show the difference, and looking over Dana Riddle's work with a spectrometer it shows that they were on to something.

 

I've actually gone from using 10K Chinese diodes to a 4000K true Bridgelux chips (with phosphors applied by Bridgelux) and I can tell you the difference is pretty drastic. If you're going to have any extra pads, I would consider making a few using ~4000K diodes for the white LEDs just to see the difference.

 

As with all things, it's best to test all for yourself :)

 

(and as far as adding red/green diodes, I would skip that - they really don't do all that much by themselves except give you a nice colored light show lol, using warm white diodes has better effects on coloration and are much easier to blend together with blue)

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There's plenty on blank extra pads for future tweaks and mods. Current ones are a slightly modded and improved copy of maxxspect razor 16kK units. Improved to better meet personal preferences that is, I'm not claiming we'd be outperforming the razor with these in any way. :)

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Nasty skimmate!

But it smells lovely. Subtle floral notes open up into a broad honey and citrus aroma with a nice earthy mushroom touch and hints of bark and leather.

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