Rocket's 125 Gallon

[phiber_optikx]

If you want a nice, crisp blue that REALLY makes the colors "pop" go with the 420 nm actinic. I chose that for my 29 gallon reef and it looks so much better than standard actinic.

[Todesengel]

Noted.. LOL. Thanks for the laugh, I actually really needed that right now.

[AcroporaLokani]

That light is NICE.

 

And the live rock and base rock seems to be a good amount for you tank, I used ten pounds of live rock and thirty pounds of base rock for my 55 gal.

[Rocket]

Today is Sump build day. I tried going with a standard glass fish tank but they just don't fit under the stand and have the gallons I want. You know what that means DIY!!!

 

As this is a sump and not display I just picked up 2 36x20 .220 acrylic sheets at home depot. The same stuff I built my Hex sump with.

 

I have not crunched the numbers but I presume the sump will be around 36x11x19. 32.5 gallons.

 

I'll photo log this event as a fellow N-R.com member is curious on how acrylic is built.

 

Tonight I hope to have all 5 sides cut and ready for solvent. And hopefully 2 sides attached.

[CoRPS]

Looking good man. Please take lots of pictures while you're cutting and building the sump.

 

I had to work with the 1/4" acrylic and it cuts perfectly on a table saw.

[fewskillz]

The 420nm actinic is more blue than the 460nm. The 460 is more purple.

 

Here is my old 54 corner with 2x65w 420nm Current lamps:

 

Here's my 46 bowfront with a single 96w Coralife actinic, which is the 460. It's just a little more purple:

[Rocket]

Sump is almost done. Not going to upload photos till it is complete then I will write up a log for it.

 

I have been toying with the idea of a Closed loop system for my tank. Although I do not want to drill the tank so it would have to overhang and I don't like that idea either.

 

I was hoping to get by for a while with my vortech mp40w. At max it has 3000GPH flow. I could just pop for another vortech and "antisync" it with my current one for a little wave action/ crest reef flow. down the road...

 

Ideas opinions?

[Todesengel]

Drill it!! Your going to want it later down the road, I guarantee it. I have seen some amazing non drilled tanks, but HOB just looks tacky. If your already at this stage, why not do it. Do it before its to late man!!

[fewskillz]

Drill it. It's really not that bad. Buy a used 20 gallon or something (anything bigger than a 10, you'll break the 1/8" glass) to practice on once or twice, then you'll be fine. I drilled a hole in my 20 gallon fuge as practice, and then went straight to the two holes in the 125. No problems at all.

 

If you get a glass-holes.com overflow kit it'll come with the hole-saw for the drain. You can either U-tube your return over the top or buy the correct size hole-saw from G-H.

[Rocket]

Well I have decided not to drill my tank. Drilling the bottom is impossible since it is tempered. That leaves just the sides. I wanted my tank to be 360* view. Piping on the side of the tank just will not do.

 

I plan on having an overflow to the sump. A Mag Drive 9.5 pump back to the 125. Still deciding on the return location. I can place it at the opposite end of the tank, but then I lose some viewing angles. But having the return piped next to the Overflow limits flow of filtered water through the tank.

 

Sump is, well a 5 sided rectangle. I have to cut and install the baffles.

 

Sump lighting I was thinking of going with the cheap Nova Extreme SLR. the 24 inch bulb one. Drsfostersmith.com has that fixture for 60 something. Seems like a good deal. The sump might contain a future fuge down the road. Good idea? Eh maybe not. Seems like a lot of bulbs to buy come replacement time.

 

EDIT: Almost forgot. Ordered 120 lbs LR and 120 lbs of this Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand, But not even near that price!

 

More LR will come. I am going to cement/epoxy the LR to form all the way to almost the surface of the tank. kinda like a underwater mountain with lots of shelf space.

[Todesengel]

And how are you going to accomplish 360 degree viewing with overflow boxes hanging off the back?

[Rocket]

It is just 1 small overflow box. Only 8'' wide. and will be the only thing with Coraline algae on it. I will be keeping all sides of the tank clean. And Where the tank is positioned, 1 side of the tank is 3 feet from the wall. I do not expect people to be viewing it from that angle

 

The problem I am trying to figure out is piping the return. It is going to be 3/4. Most likely a clean built pvc pipe on the other end of the tank. I'll put the pipe on the edge of the tank. So I'll have a 340* viewing

[Todesengel]

Is this an option?

 

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2003/short.htm

[fewskillz]

If there is no fuge, why do you need a sump light? And even when you do add a fuge just use any old lamp or a cheap incandescent hood and use a 6700k spiral screw-in CFL. I have two 13w, 6700k, GE CFL's in a little 16" incandescent strip light over my fuge. Maybe totalled up to $15.

[Rocket]

There will be a fuge in the sump, Just Chaeto. yeah its a no on the light. I already have what you listed. It would be a waist of money. The sump is 36 inches long. Should be plenty of room to build what I want.

 

I like the spray bar idea. I can pipe up to the tank next to the Overflow. Then pipe around the tank for flow. Not sure I would pipe the entire perimeter of the tank Just 1 of the long sides.

[annamarie421]

Looking great so far Rocket! Make sure that you rinse out the sand really well - I used the same stuff in the 90, and wish I had rinsed it out a lot better than I did - it was pretty dirty, tank took a couple of days to clear up after adding. Very much looking forward to the sump build photos!

 

Which overflow box are you planning to get? FWIW I think you could end up with a super clean look if you drilled the tank and used something like this http://www.austinoceans.com/turbo-overflows.html (overflow box w/ built in return). You could get some black PVC & fittings to plumb it, and maybe paint a 5" strip (or whatever size matched the overflow box) of the back of the tank black to help everything blend together. That way it would all be black, and distract as little as possible from the tank. Just a thought!

 

Anna

[Rocket]

Eshopps 800 GPH overflow is what I have. My return pump is a mag 9.5. Should work out nicely.

 

The problem with the overflow you have linked me is that the water is not mixed well before returning to the sump. The tank is 6 feet long. I have to have an output on the other end of the tank somehow.

 

I like the spray bar idea. I would do 3/4 then half way put a reducer to bring it to 1/2 to keep the pressure up.

 

Thanks for all the advice so far. It is much needed.

 

as for flow. I see StanD is doing another GB. I might pick up another vortec and sync them to get the awesome flow. I have 1 already through his original GB.

 

Sump pictures tonight. I still need to add the baffles but I need to find my future skimmer as the urchin I don't' think will work down the road. So I need to plan the baffles to accommodate a wide range of skimmers.

[Todesengel]

What is this group buy you speak of?

[Rocket]

As promised: Sump build.

 

The sump is 90% complete have to add the baffles. The build went well. No problems. I have included a lot of photos because some N-R.com members are curious what it takes to build their own custom sump.

 

Here is the sump. Just try to imagine it. Then you can see it.

 

Look at that 1 inch to spare on the sides. I did good on planning the sump out of 2 36x30 sheets of acrylic.

 

Triple checked my measurements. I stuck with my tape measure for consistency.

 

1st cut went smoothly. Just slow and steady for a nice clean cut.

 

What to expect while cutting acrylic. Tiny pieces that are static charged and stick to everything. Remember to thoroughly clean both the acrylic and table saw (hence the big fluffy bristle brush) and blade after each cut to minimize the scratching that can occur if a piece of "dust" gets under the acrylic while pushing it against the table saw. And yes that is an old box of crap holding it up. Another ebay item.

 

To help with creating a clean and consistent bond with the acrylic I recommend wet sanding the edges that are to be glued with a sanding block. This is my very cheap solution. That is 120 grit sand paper.

 

Here is the solvent and patch solvent. After building the sump leak test it and any spots use the #16.

 

Using long enough clamps, clamp it. You do not want excessive force or you will bend the acrylic out of place. I used 2 90* devices. A speed square and a 18'' square. They where what I had handy. The 2x4 was used to push the center into place because I could not reach it with my hands.

 

Perfect fit. Measure twice cut once.

 

This is how you apply the solvent weld-on #4. A small brush that comes to a point is ideal I had a 1 incher so I used it. The solvent "sucks" under the joint. You can visually see where it is because the joint appears "wet"

 

Try not to overdose the joints. This is what will happen when too much is applied and it soaks through to the other side and under. Fortunately this is a sump and its on the bottom. I do not care about the look.

 

2 36'' sides done now for the 10.625'' sides to be installed. Monster can for size reference.

 

Last side sitting for 2 hours waiting for the bond to be strong enough

 

Pretty clean bond. The less bubbles you see the better. Ideally you will want zero, to achieve that a lot of time consuming sanding is needed with much higher grit. It's a sump. I don't care.

 

Woot its almost DONE!!! just cut 2, maybe 3 baffles and drop them in. They add support for bowing also.

 

Sorry for such a long post. Hope this helps people. Don't forget to test for leaks. #16 should fill the leak. I like to coat all exterior joints with silicone also. It's an extra piece of mind for me.

 

Tomorrow Home Depot run for pvc piping for the overflow, return and spray bar. Also purchase some smaller sheet for baffles, and a top brace for the sump.

[annamarie421]

Wow. The sump looks fantastic so far! Thanks for the play by play photos & explanation! Can't wait to see it finished!

 

Anna

[Todesengel]

Very nice! Do you do wood working too?

[Rocket]

Yes, I am a part time cabinet maker. Along with many other skills.

 

I forgot to mention last post. Sump is 30.8 Gallons. and is 36''x11''x18''

[Todesengel]

Very nice! And make sure you do rinse out your sand as posted above. Rinse it REALLY well. I got some sugar fine sand, and I rinsed it really good and then threw it in the tank... Tank has been cloudy for 3 days and counting... I still can't see the blue background haha.

[AcroporaLokani]

Nice sump.

[Rocket]

Sump is done. Had finals last week so never touched the sump.

 

I decided to split the 36 inches of length into 3 compartments. I am still deciding what way to face the sump. I can either put skimmer side or return pump side at the outer left edge of my tank. Skimmer side would allow the overflow to drain faster. Pump side would allow pump to push more GPH through.

 

It's a toss up really.

 

Sump section deminsions are: Overflow, Skimmer, Heaters - 13.5Lx11Wx10H

Refugium middle section is: Chaetomorpha, LR rubble - 16Lx11Wx9H

Return Pump section: Mag Drive 9.5 (950GPH) - 6Lx11Wx9H

 

I'll have photos tomorrow. Right now the sump is covered in clamps to hold the baffles in place.

 

Piping the 125 is almost complete. Need the sump in place to finalize the return pump piping configuration. The overflow is ready to go. It is currently in service on my 42 hex so I can't pull it till I am ready to transfer. I am thinking I'll just stick with 3/4 PVC on the spray bar instead of narrowing the last 3 feet with 1/2. Any thoughts on this idea? I might just build 2 and test which one I like the best.

 

Cheers,

 

P.S. still debating on GB offer for another vortech mp40w