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Merfin's Cadlights 39G Sig Tank


merfin70

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I'll do some pics tonight or tomorrow for you. The frags were a bit PO'ed after the trip from Cali to NY so look a little brown at the moment.

 

As for my dosing, the fine tuning was on the V-C. I think I was doing too much there (1/4 tsp twice a day for my 39g tank). My Zoas/Palys didn't seem to mind the extra, in fact some colonies that looked bad or were closed have opened back up in full force. I had a group of LOTR palys that looked terrible for weeks that have since completely re-opened.

 

My SPS however were getting pale and I could tell by my CUC activity that there was very little to eat in the tank.

 

I've dropped the V-C back as of Sunday so we'll see if that improves things a bit. Currently, I'm at:

 

20 ml of Bionc 2-Part Daily (10 ml morning & 10ml at night)

1/4 tsp Vitamin C Daily (1/8th morning & 1/8th at night)

 

The Vitamin C is pure Sodium Ascorbate Powder (buffered). The non-buffered can throw your PH for a complete tizzy so don't try that one.

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I also added a slightly modified Steve T RSM media rack in Chamber 1which now holds ChemiPure Elite and Purigen. Water clarity is so much improved and the rack from Steve is a great addition. While it has a little wiggle room in the Cad 39g sig its a good solid fit overall and is way way better than anything I could have DIY'ed. Thanks Steve the rack is fantastic !!!

 

post-36920-1214401846_thumb.jpg

 

Can you take a quick snap of this media rack? I wanted to use this in my CAD system but first wanted to see how it fit!

 

Thanks,

Carl

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Hi Carl. I'll see if I can get some shots of it today but as a general description, it fits in chamber 1 with about 2" to spare on the top, 1/2" on the side and 1" back to front. So, by no means a perfect fit in the Cad but it gets the job done well. What I do is simple; stuff a little floss at the back so the front pushes flush to the overflow. This way, water from the overflow comes right down into the rack.

 

Also, please keep in mind that Steve was kind enough to make a very necessary modification for me on the one I run. One of the bottom supports needs to be moved from parallel to perpendicular. If you don't do this, the leg blocks the flow to chamber 2.

 

In it I run floss, purigen then chemipure. The floss runs below the water line which is perfect to ensure it catches all the crud coming in from the overflow. I recommend it, with the modification to the leg of course.

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Hi Carl. I'll see if I can get some shots of it today but as a general description, it fits in chamber 1 with about 2" to spare on the top, 1/2" on the side and 1" back to front. So, by no means a perfect fit in the Cad but it gets the job done well. What I do is simple; stuff a little floss at the back so the front pushes flush to the overflow. This way, water from the overflow comes right down into the rack.

 

Also, please keep in mind that Steve was kind enough to make a very necessary modification for me on the one I run. One of the bottom supports needs to be moved from parallel to perpendicular. If you don't do this, the leg blocks the flow to chamber 2.

 

In it I run floss, purigen then chemipure. The floss runs below the water line which is perfect to ensure it catches all the crud coming in from the overflow. I recommend it, with the modification to the leg of course.

 

What did you do in order to prop up your skimmer in chamber 2. The return doesn't fit over the glass into the refugium if the skimmer is set at the bottom of the chamber. Any idea, or did you just rest the skimmer on the return line?

 

-Carl

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Exactly, the return from the skimmer should just sit on top of the glass between chamber 2 and chamber 3. Many of us however have boosted it up a bit higher as the skimmer performs better up about 2". I did this by notching out a piece of PVC that rests on the glass and then you sit the return on top of the PVC. Hope this helps.

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Its not easy to see in this picture but the skimmer return is sitting on a 2" piece of clear plastic tubing that is notched out on the bottom to rest over the glass panel. Might not sound stable but honestly its pretty solid.

 

20080926_0518-1.jpg

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Its not easy to see in this picture but the skimmer return is sitting on a 2" piece of clear plastic tubing that is notched out on the bottom to rest over the glass panel. Might not sound stable but honestly its pretty solid.

 

20080926_0518-1.jpg

 

Did you add that little catch-cup and filter floss to help out with micro-bubbles? Where did you snag that one from! I appreciate you answering my questions. Maybe CAD should supply some god damn instructions with this one... :P

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Yes, I seem to be one of the lucky ones plagued by the micro-bubbles. The sponge dish came from Target though I've seen it at Lowes as well. Very effective at killing the bubbles. My cheato used to do a good job at it too but then I started carbon dosing (Vitamin C) and the cheato died from lack of nutrients.

 

In case you didn't notice it, I also put some velcro under the overflow to kill some of the splashing noise. Also available at Lowes or Home Depot, along with the PVC or clear hose to boost up the skimmer the 2" is needs to be really effective.

 

Happy to answer any questions you might have. No need for you to struggle through something if we have the answers already or at least a recommendation. Do you have your CAD up and running yet as I can't tell if its on order 2/10 or received?

 

While I've done a bit of modding, I love my tank and its design and I hope you do to, though mine is getting a bit crowded. :happy:

 

20090221_0649.jpg

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Thank you, I seriously appreciate it. I was close to starting a "Where are my directions?" thread and forwarding the link to Eddie. Either way, the tank is here and I have built the stand, just piecing it together and hopefully filling it today!

 

-Carl

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here fishy fishy

Hi Merf-

 

I'm tagging along! Ordering my CAD next week. Your tank looks great, I may be pestering you for help with mine.

 

Are you running topless? Do you have an ATO? I'm looking at the Tunze with a calcium dispenser.

 

Kris

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Good luck and enjoy !!

 

All filled up! Live Rock arrives Thursday. :P

 

Do you happen to know what this little black cylindrical piece is that came with the skimmer? It looks like some sort of a filter for the air tube but I can't tell.

 

-Carl

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Hi Merf-

 

I'm tagging along! Ordering my CAD next week. Your tank looks great, I may be pestering you for help with mine.

 

Are you running topless? Do you have an ATO? I'm looking at the Tunze with a calcium dispenser.

 

Kris

 

Hi Kris. Thanks for the compliment !! Pester away, I'm just glad to see there are some more CAD owners coming on board as I really love my tank. You getting the Sig I assume? I do run topless as the heat from the MH would roast the tank with the glass lid on. Tried it once and pulled it off when the tank reached 84+. I do run an ATO (the JBJ) with a perfect fit water container that just slides into the left side of the cabinet. Holds about 5 gallons (a week+) of water. I dose b-ionic manually twice a day. Honestly, I'm afraid of automating too many things as its just more stuff that can go wrong. I already had the ATO stick on me because of a build up of precip. Thankfully I only had 1 gallon left in for the ATO so it didn't nuke the tank or overflow on the floors. Scared the crap out of me though.

 

All filled up! Live Rock arrives Thursday. :P

 

Do you happen to know what this little black cylindrical piece is that came with the skimmer? It looks like some sort of a filter for the air tube but I can't tell.

 

-Carl

 

Where did you order the rock from if I may ask? I have a love/hate relationship with mine. Great rock but with some unfortunate hitchhikers.

 

Can't help you on the black cylinder as mine didn't come with one. I think I did read on another forum that they had started shipping some new parts with the later models. I would ask Eddie or Ken (if you ordered from Oceanreeflections).

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Where did you order the rock from if I may ask? I have a love/hate relationship with mine. Great rock but with some unfortunate hitchhikers.

 

Can't help you on the black cylinder as mine didn't come with one. I think I did read on another forum that they had started shipping some new parts with the later models. I would ask Eddie or Ken (if you ordered from Oceanreeflections).

 

I ordered it from http://www.aquariumarts.com/liverock.html. I have heard nothing but praise about their product. I'll get in touch with Eddie to find out what it is. I can't wait to put something into this glass case of emotion. :P

 

-Carl

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Is that a Vortech I see on the left hand side of your tank?

If so, which model do you have, and how has having one affected your tank?

 

Its now an MP40 but I started with the MP20. I picked up the MP40 for a good price and since I plan on starting a larger tank at some point, I figured it was a good investment for the future. That said, the MP20 was PLENTY of flow for my tank so I didn't upgrade becuase I thought it lacked in any way. Highly recommended. I think it keeps the tank much cleaner and my corals have responded very well to the variable flow it produces. Previously I ran 2 Koralia #1s and a K-Nano. Hands down the Vortech wins for flow and polyp movement. With it being outside the tank, I reduced my tank temp by 4 degrees. Best part for me is that the three eyesores in the tank are replaced with something that has a pretty low profile.

 

I could run the MP20 on full power in the tank (24" wide x 20" high) whereas I have to throttle down the MP40 as otherwise its a giant sand storm. As it is now, I have a bald spot on the right corner and a mountain on the left side as I still have the MP40 set too high. I'm probably at 60% now.

 

When I first put in the MP20 I was embarrassed by the amount of muck and crud that came flying off the rock and sand bed. :o I thought my weekly turkey baster routine was doing a good job keeping things clean but apparently not.

 

your acans are amazing

 

Thanks !! I love my Acans. Happily, they are spreading nicely and so starting to look a little more natural. I'm trying to get rid of the Acan mounds.

 

I ordered it from http://www.aquariumarts.com/liverock.html. I have heard nothing but praise about their product. I'll get in touch with Eddie to find out what it is. I can't wait to put something into this glass case of emotion. :P

 

-Carl

 

I took a peek at the WEB Site, looks like nice stuff !!

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here fishy fishy

Yes, the sig. Mind if I ask what container you have that fits so well under the stand?

 

 

 

Hi Kris. Thanks for the compliment !! Pester away, I'm just glad to see there are some more CAD owners coming on board as I really love my tank. You getting the Sig I assume? I do run topless as the heat from the MH would roast the tank with the glass lid on. Tried it once and pulled it off when the tank reached 84+. I do run an ATO (the JBJ) with a perfect fit water container that just slides into the left side of the cabinet. Holds about 5 gallons (a week+) of water. I dose b-ionic manually twice a day. Honestly, I'm afraid of automating too many things as its just more stuff that can go wrong. I already had the ATO stick on me because of a build up of precip. Thankfully I only had 1 gallon left in for the ATO so it didn't nuke the tank or overflow on the floors. Scared the crap out of me though.

 

 

 

 

Where did you order the rock from if I may ask? I have a love/hate relationship with mine. Great rock but with some unfortunate hitchhikers.

 

Can't help you on the black cylinder as mine didn't come with one. I think I did read on another forum that they had started shipping some new parts with the later models. I would ask Eddie or Ken (if you ordered from Oceanreeflections).

Edited by here fishy fishy
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Now this may sound like an absurd question, but how to do measure where your "fill line" is? Am I correct in saying that the water in the fuge chamber (chamber 3) should not overflow into chamber 2? If so, that would mean that as long as the water level is close to the top of the fuge chamber, the tank can be considered "full".

 

EDIT: I'm also having a bit of a splashing issue from the overflow into chamber 1 and the refugium. I might have to try this Velcro idea, but I feel like it wouldn't stick with the water continuously running through it!

 

Thanks. ;)

 

-Carl

Edited by Spent198
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Yes, the sig. Mind if I ask what container you have that fits so well under the stand?

 

It was recommended to me from a fellow Sig owner. You can find it at Amazon below. I just took a razor to it and cut off the top/handle so you can get your hands in there to mount the ATO sensor and the pump at the bottom. You need to take out the shelf to make this work as its tall.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Gallon-Water-C...7812&sr=8-1

 

Now this may sound like an absurd question, but how to do measure where your "fill line" is? Am I correct in saying that the water in the fuge chamber (chamber 3) should not overflow into chamber 2? If so, that would mean that as long as the water level is close to the top of the fuge chamber, the tank can be considered "full".

 

EDIT: I'm also having a bit of a splashing issue from the overflow into chamber 1 and the refugium. I might have to try this Velcro idea, but I feel like it wouldn't stick with the water continuously running through it!

 

Thanks. ;)

 

-Carl

 

Oh, by no means absurd, I asked at first as well. I run my water level (with pump and skimmer on) at about 1" below the separation between the fuge and the skimmer chamber. This seems to get me the best skimmer performance with my boosted up skimmer. Plus, as you say, it shouldn't overflow between the two chambers otherwise you're double skimming.

 

Because at water change time you will likely turn everything off, I also used a piece of tape on the outside back wall to mark where the water level should be with all pumps/skimmer off. This way you know how high to fill when you do a water change.

 

As for the spashing, yep I've got it too. Even worse for me as my Vortech causes a bit of a wave effect at that side of the tank. The velcro (industrial 2") should be below the teeth not over them. It just helps to ease the water into Chamber 1. Not perfect but it helps. Do make sure you don't go over the teeth as that defeats the purpose of the surface skimming. Alternatively, I sometimes stuff more floss in the top of my StevieT media rack so it quiets the noise.

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It was recommended to me from a fellow Sig owner. You can find it at Amazon below. I just took a razor to it and cut off the top/handle so you can get your hands in there to mount the ATO sensor and the pump at the bottom. You need to take out the shelf to make this work as its tall.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Gallon-Water-C...7812&sr=8-1

 

 

 

Oh, by no means absurd, I asked at first as well. I run my water level (with pump and skimmer on) at about 1" below the separation between the fuge and the skimmer chamber. This seems to get me the best skimmer performance with my boosted up skimmer. Plus, as you say, it shouldn't overflow between the two chambers otherwise you're double skimming.

 

Because at water change time you will likely turn everything off, I also used a piece of tape on the outside back wall to mark where the water level should be with all pumps/skimmer off. This way you know how high to fill when you do a water change.

 

As for the spashing, yep I've got it too. Even worse for me as my Vortech causes a bit of a wave effect at that side of the tank. The velcro (industrial 2") should be below the teeth not over them. It just helps to ease the water into Chamber 1. Not perfect but it helps. Do make sure you don't go over the teeth as that defeats the purpose of the surface skimming. Alternatively, I sometimes stuff more floss in the top of my StevieT media rack so it quiets the noise.

 

I sent StevieT a message today about the Media Rack. Hopefully I can get my hands on one soon. Also, thanks for the advice. I just made the necessary adjustments so I should be in good shape. Now, I play the waiting game until Thursday when the LR arrives. Yeah, the MP20 causes quite a bit of splashing because of the heavy current in the tank.

 

Thanks again!

 

By the way, your tank looks fantastic.

 

-Carl

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Well, the LR is in! Reset the counter on the waiting game...

 

Merfin, does any of your LR lean on the back wall? Right now I think a few pieces of mine are, but I am not too worried about it. Also, how much live sand were you able to squeeze in your setup? I ended up fitting a little over 20lbs and I think it is plenty. I have a nice sand bed of 1"-1 1/2" deep.

 

By the way, here is a link if you want to reference someone to the soap dish!

http://www.smallflower.com/interdesign/suc...-soap-dish.html

Not bad, but the shipping got me! No Target in my area.

 

-Carl

Edited by Spent198
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Now starts the fun part for you, excellent. Quite a bit of my rock rests on the back wall to some degree. The bottom pieces, no, but I have a staircase structure so everything above that touches the back wall to some degree. It does make some maintenance tasks a pain (righting the stupid snails that fall over behind it) but it maximizes space for coral and light. Its only a 30g display and a tall tank so I think you need to lean some of them to make the most of it.

 

Same as you on the sand, one 20lb bag.

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