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HID Reef: 4G 35W 10,000K MH Crocea Pico


ma_sha1

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Wow! I will never complain about Michigan being cold ever again :lol:

Now a bit warmer today, a standing minimum of -30* C across Alberta.

(at least we don't get as much moisture as u guys near the ocean during winter)

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Hey I'm back! The trip was awesome. I was on the Bare Naked Ladies Ships and Dip III cruise through Carnival on the MS Victory. Had a great time in Grand Cayman snorkling. Anyway it's great to be back though.

Bad news though, can't get the bulbs to fire. :( I hook up all of the wires and plug it in and nothing. No noise from the ballast or heat or anything. What am I doing wrong? I tried both bulbs on both ballast and switched them to double cross. Any ideas?

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Hmmm.

 

I googled around for a bit and it looks like xenon HIDs need an ignition voltage of about 23KV, while MH needs about 3KV to fire.

 

It's probably the xenon gas in the HID that drives voltages up this far....

 

 

Regards Hans

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The Propagator

It absolutely would BUT your new problem would be finding out what wire connects to what pin on the connector. I would go visit your local Beamer dealer and ask a mechanic there. I bet he could test it for you and tell you what wire goes where. He may also have the matching connector clip :)

 

If this works I am in !

You could so make some money off of this stuff if you can do it cheap enough.

Whats the cost on the ballasts and bulbs?

 

 

Man could you imagine finding a lens that would work under these like an LED lens does.

That would change the game entirely for every one with a 29g tank and under I would think.

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Sorry to hear that it didn't work.

 

If it worked, for my big tank, I was going to put another 35W HID over my Clam on 46Gal, which is under 70W HQI. Now I just decided to go with another HQI. 70W 14K bulb $20 & 70W + ballast $30.

 

I think you should just do a single HQI for your 8Gal, The dual 35W HID will cost you much more.

 

I don't think adding the igniter will work. Because you still don't know what's the Volt that comes out your AC ballast, or if it's AC or DC that comes out. it may blow somthing up if you put igniter on 3KV. A little risky.

 

I got some Halogen fixtures that I'll take the socket out to retro fit the second 70W HQI

(The same way I did my existing 70W).

 

I did the 4Gal with 35W HID only because a 70W HQI directly sitting on top will cook things up.

I think 8 Gal, 70W HQI is perfect, just need to make sure to hook in a good Fan.

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Man could you imagine finding a lens that would work under these like an LED lens does.

That would change the game entirely for every one with a 29g tank and under I would think.

 

I actually looked into "Lens" when I did my HID Pico Reef. This can be done easily by using a Projector set up from automotive projector headlight. I did a Projectors retrofit on my car(Infiniti G35x, AWD & Supercharged) See Picture below: Top light 35W HID Projector Retro Fit using TSX projector, 4300K.

Bottom light: 55W Halogen, 3000K. I was amazed by the projector impact on light density.

 

807724_128_full.jpg

 

The Projector HID will give 2-4x more light density as it's much more focused than reflectors. But it's kind tall, it won't fit into my 12x4x4" light fixture. But I think that's the only way to get enough light for a clam under 35W HID.

 

My baby maxima is not doing well in the 4 gal pico, I had to move it into my 46gal tank.

I think 35W HID without projector is not enough, next I'll try squamosa clam instead.

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I think 35W HID without projector is not enough, next I'll try squamosa clam instead.

 

a better choice for a lower light situation hows about a brown mantle one they traditionally require less light right???? No clam in my 4 gal, I thought until I started to follow this thread... I am going to ask a friend of mine whos a mastermechanic for toyota what he thinks about all this.

 

Thanks!

Loosey

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When my lights get here, hopefully next week, I'm going to use a sealed lead acid battery and a small charger to power them. If I can find that old computer laying around I'll strip the power supply out of it and use that later on.

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When my lights get here, hopefully next week, I'm going to use a sealed lead acid battery and a small charger to power them. If I can find that old computer laying around I'll strip the power supply out of it and use that later on.

 

You can you car battery to start it up, but will run out of juice in 2 hours, even with charger on, it won't keep it running (Charger usually charges at 2A & you are drawing 3.5 amp with HID).

 

However, once it started, you can keep it going with a computer LCD panel power supply, usually

12V rated 4-5 Amp. LCD power supply goes about $10 on ebay.

 

The only problem you may face then is to try to run it on a timer. Computer power supply, if it's notebook, may run on 18-19V, that's too high. For desktop computer, if you can find one that runs on 12V with >22Amp, then you are ok.

 

that will NOT WORK. 1000ma is only 1 amp. i suggest you get a power supply of ebay that delivers 12amps of power. something like this

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/150W-12V-DC-Power-Supp...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

better yet, if you could find an old computer power supply, you could turn that into a 12volt power supply that would power your headlights.

 

 

My HID ballast says need 22 A to start, the power supply you listed only 12A. This is the one I am using:

http://cgi.ebay.com/12v-Power-Supply-13-5v...7QQcmdZViewItem

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The only problem you may face then is to try to run it on a timer. Computer power supply, if it's notebook, may run on 18-19V, that's too high. For desktop computer, if you can find one that runs on 12V with >22Amp, then you are ok.

 

 

 

 

My HID ballast says need 22 A to start, the power supply you listed only 12A. This is the one I am using:

http://cgi.ebay.com/12v-Power-Supply-13-5v...7QQcmdZViewItem

 

oddly enough the mechanic I spoke to suggested the same way of powering it.

he also said something about a model train transformer but I didnt catch it all.

 

Loosey

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My HID ballast says need 22 A to start, the power supply you listed only 12A. This is the one I am using:

http://cgi.ebay.com/12v-Power-Supply-13-5v...7QQcmdZViewItem

 

i guess it depends on your ballast. on my car i have both my ballast wired up to 1 20 amp fuse and it starts right up like a charm every time. thats why i suggested that power supply

 

edit: doing a little more research, HID only need 2-3 amps to keep it running, and a surge of 15amps when the light is lit. im pretty sure the power supply i suggested would work fine.

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Geez you guys down south play with girlie battery chargers,lol. My little charger puts out 10 amp, my medium one is 40 amps and my big one kicks out 100 amps. Then again I do play with big diesels at -40 c fairly often.

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Fuses are a function of amperage and duration, so it can surge over the rating for a fraction of a second and not blow it. Not sure if the same thing holds true for power supplies though.

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Ma: Watched your tank video, looks good.

What type of car battery are you running, is it a deep cycle? When regular batteries drain empty a couple of times they never regain the full voltage, that could be a problem in the long run.

 

20 amp, 12 volt power supplies look to run about $80, HID kit about $70 = $150. No one has found a cheaper way to power these things yet?

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