DIY 24 x 24 x 20 tank (glass from Nano paul)

[smcnally]

The tank looks great! Thanks for the help you gave me over at RC. I'll be doing a tank build thread like yours over at my local forum. I would do it here too, but it isn't quite a nano (~70 gallons). I plan on doing a nano someday, but right now am focusing on downsizing from a 125 so when I move into a house (hopefully next year) it won't be such a hassle. BTW, for anyone thinking about building a tank and stand, I highly recommend downloading Google SketchUp. I drew my whole plan up, and it really gives you a feel of how everything is going to fit since you can see it in 3D and spin it around.

[tperkins]

The tank looks great! Thanks for the help you gave me over at RC. I'll be doing a tank build thread like yours over at my local forum. I would do it here too, but it isn't quite a nano (~70 gallons). I plan on doing a nano someday, but right now am focusing on downsizing from a 125 so when I move into a house (hopefully next year) it won't be such a hassle. BTW, for anyone thinking about building a tank and stand, I highly recommend downloading Google SketchUp. I drew my whole plan up, and it really gives you a feel of how everything is going to fit since you can see it in 3D and spin it around.

 

 

You're welcome for the info. If you have any questions I might be able to answer please feel free to PM me. this is my 1st tank build so Just winged it as I went. I did read A LOT before I actually started building it. Been planning this tank for over a year. And I don't actually consider this a Nano tank. I posted it here as well as on my club forum at RC because I wanted to give Paul Props and let others see his glass in action.

 

 

Spanko- I am not really that handy. but I have a friend who is great at woodworking and has all the tools. Thanks for following along.

[nano-paul]

Can you give me the link to the thread at reefcentral? I would like to see it there also.

[Withers]

The tank looks great! Thanks for the help you gave me over at RC. I'll be doing a tank build thread like yours over at my local forum. I would do it here too, but it isn't quite a nano (~70 gallons). I plan on doing a nano someday, but right now am focusing on downsizing from a 125 so when I move into a house (hopefully next year) it won't be such a hassle. BTW, for anyone thinking about building a tank and stand, I highly recommend downloading Google SketchUp. I drew my whole plan up, and it really gives you a feel of how everything is going to fit since you can see it in 3D and spin it around.

 

Large reefs go here.

[tperkins]

Can you give me the link to the thread at reefcentral? I would like to see it there also.

 

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=1124974

 

this is the link to the thread on the club forum. It's pretty much a copy and paste of my posts here.

[tperkins]

I had time to paint my tank back and bottom.

 

So on to the pics...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paint did not like the low iron glass. I think I could peel it off.

 

[Matty1124]

i have a question about your over-flow... wont you be able to see it in your tank and wont it cast a shadow? what was your thinking of doing it inside the tank and not on the outside? looks good with the black back ground

[tperkins]

i have a question about your over-flow... wont you be able to see it in your tank and wont it cast a shadow? what was your thinking of doing it inside the tank and not on the outside? looks good with the black back ground

 

 

Yes you will be able to see it just like any other overflow that is inside the tank. I also did it inside the tank to help give the tank a little more stabillty because it goes form "coast to coast" it's kinda like a brace as well.

 

As for a shadow I don't plan on having anything that far back in the tank. I plan on keeping a 4 - 5 inch distance between the rock and the sides of the tank.

[nano-paul]

That tank makes me want to build one

 

You dont like bananas by chance do you??

[tperkins]

That tank makes me want to build one

 

You dont like bananas by chance do you??

 

Haha, banana boxes make the best storage boxs. They are super strong. we just cleaned out our small storage unit to cut back on the monthly expenses. Those box's are what we still need to go through.

[EtOH_is_good]

this thread is awesome. the tank is awesome. keep the info coming. btw, i just wanted to gunk up the thread with this post.

 

hmm, i wonder if nano paul could cut me some glass that would replicate tigah's acrylic tank? that would be sweet.

 

crap... north carolina isn't that far away from atlanta. damn, the possibilities.

[tperkins]

Thanks ETOH, all gunk in this thread it gud gunk!

 

Okay guys I am having a dilema. My friend Rogger suggested that I drill a hole in the bottom of the overflow and put a 90 degree elbow on it and run the return down under the overflow and behind the rocks.

 

It would be a cleaner look than having the two 14 inch runs of Sure-loc going over the top of the overflow. I would need to rely on a small check valve for my siphon break that would be in the 90 degree elbow.

 

I am a little wary of drilling the overflow now that it's already in place.

 

I pretty much think I have to do this because it would look so good. I am just asking for other opinions. Any reason is should NOT do this?

[Bentley007]

nano-paul,

 

Can I PM you with a cut list for some low-iron glass. I want to compare what you charge with a quote I got from a glass shop around here - outrageous! Thanks - let me know if it is cool - I'll attach a cut list too.

 

Duh! I said the same thing twice!

[tperkins]

nano-paul,

 

Can I PM you with a cut list for some low-iron glass. I want to compare what you charge with a quote I got from a glass shop around here - outrageous! Thanks - let me know if it is cool - I'll attach a cut list too.

 

Duh! I said the same thing twice!

 

He was half the price including shipping of the best glass quote I got locally.

[Bentley007]

The glass is 1/2" with 3 side starfire cube 32"x32"x30"deep (about 133 gal) - quote was $870 + tax

[strangelove]

Thanks ETOH, all gunk in this thread it gud gunk!

 

Okay guys I am having a dilema. My friend Rogger suggested that I drill a hole in the bottom of the overflow and put a 90 degree elbow on it and run the return down under the overflow and behind the rocks.

 

It would be a cleaner look than having the two 14 inch runs of Sure-loc going over the top of the overflow. I would need to rely on a small check valve for my siphon break that would be in the 90 degree elbow.

 

I am a little wary of drilling the overflow now that it's already in place.

 

I pretty much think I have to do this because it would look so good. I am just asking for other opinions. Any reason is should NOT do this?

 

I'd put your return line as high up the tank as you can, your overflow looks like its about five inches below the top of the tank and if your return line is below that... so if your water pump stalls or the power goes out that would be a lot of gallons siphoning back to your sump or refugium and overflowing. I know you mentioned a check valve, but return lines can get clogged and the check valve might get stuck in the open position. That kind of thing to worry about would just drive me bonkers and I wouldn't be able to enjoy my tank. I'd stick with the loc-lines so you can position the water flow where you want it. Some corals change their mind about water flow, one day they like it, the next day they hate it, kind of like my wife With the locline you can make changes down the road. Another advantage is by raising the locline just at the waters surface, when I do power the return pump to off, the return lines just siphon less than a gallon of water into my refugium, this way I can run my refugium at full capacity for more water and more LR, no overflowing. I don't remember reading if you were going to diy a sump, but I would suspect that it will be square underneath your main tank. I'm sure you have a design for it, but if you want a picture of what I did for my square 18" 18" 18" refugium I could post a pic.

[smcnally]

Would you mind giving us a running total on the costs?

 

I don't know if tperkins ever answered this question, but I can tell you what my project is running me. The tank alone is going to cost me right around $375 but maybe more if I have someone else drill it for me. But mine is a little larger than his... The total cost of my project so far (I've been keeping track of it all) is right around $890. That cost includes the T5 retro lighting, the wood for the stand and hood, epoxy paint for the inside of the cabinet that will double as a sump, etc.

 

A club member pointed this online article out to me after reading this thread.

 

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/2781...glass-tank.html

 

I'll cut and paste the excerpt thats most interesting.

 

6) Silicone bonds very well to silicone, but much less well to anything else... like glass.

 

That point at number 6 seems weird to me and I think the person that wrote it was confused. Silicon does not adhere to silicone barely at all but it does adhere to glass very well.

 

Also, I thought I read it hear but I was wrong...I thought I would let people know though. I read somewhere where someone was saying that the 999-A silicon was the same stuff Elos uses for there tanks. I found a thread online last night where someone posted that they actually spoke to the people at Elos and Elos sent them the specifications of the silicone they use (and they posted the specs). I compared their specs to the specs of the 999-A from Dow and Corning, and the 999-A is a little over 1/2 as strong as what they use when you compare the shear, tensile, and shear strengths. I still believe it is stronger than the AGA Aquarium silicone, but can't find any spec data on that anywhere. Any help on that would be awesome.

 

BTW, I've posted my tank build here as well so others can see what my plans are. You can see it HERE.

[tperkins]

I'd put your return line as high up the tank as you can, your overflow looks like its about five inches below the top of the tank and if your return line is below that... so if your water pump stalls or the power goes out that would be a lot of gallons siphoning back to your sump or refugium and overflowing. I know you mentioned a check valve, but return lines can get clogged and the check valve might get stuck in the open position. That kind of thing to worry about would just drive me bonkers and I wouldn't be able to enjoy my tank. I'd stick with the loc-lines so you can position the water flow where you want it. Some corals change their mind about water flow, one day they like it, the next day they hate it, kind of like my wife With the locline you can make changes down the road. Another advantage is by raising the locline just at the waters surface, when I do power the return pump to off, the return lines just siphon less than a gallon of water into my refugium, this way I can run my refugium at full capacity for more water and more LR, no overflowing. I don't remember reading if you were going to diy a sump, but I would suspect that it will be square underneath your main tank. I'm sure you have a design for it, but if you want a picture of what I did for my square 18" 18" 18" refugium I could post a pic.

 

 

If the check valve were to fail open it would just squirt water into my overflow continuously. The only problem would be if it failed closed and then the power went out.

 

I was also never planning on changing the loc lines. they would just be down behind the rocks, I could still point them where I want.

 

I'd love to see a pic of your sump. thankyou

[tperkins]

Sump is done! while I was calling to ask for some advice a friend invited me to come down today and he would help me build it. I forgot my camera so no build pics but I have completed pics.

 

Now for the pics.

 

 

 

 

couple of tiny drip leaks taken care of easily with some weldon 16 and now it sits on my back porch to finish leak testing.

[FateX9]

looks sooo clear nice work!

[tperkins]

Couple of small drip leaks but nothing major. had to drain it, dry it, and refill it. looking good so far.

[Reefaholic]

The tank looks great! Thanks for the help you gave me over at RC. I'll be doing a tank build thread like yours over at my local forum. I would do it here too, but it isn't quite a nano (~70 gallons). I plan on doing a nano someday, but right now am focusing on downsizing from a 125 so when I move into a house (hopefully next year) it won't be such a hassle. BTW, for anyone thinking about building a tank and stand, I highly recommend downloading Google SketchUp. I drew my whole plan up, and it really gives you a feel of how everything is going to fit since you can see it in 3D and spin it around.

 

I second Google sketchup. I've been designing my tank/stand/sump in it. It helps just having a detailed visual 3d model of it to see if anything needs to be changed or adjusted. I've already caught a few things that I adjusted which saved me money and headache opposed to catching it when I'm half way into building it.

[Reefaholic]

nano-paul,

 

Can I PM you with a cut list for some low-iron glass. I want to compare what you charge with a quote I got from a glass shop around here - outrageous! Thanks - let me know if it is cool - I'll attach a cut list too.

 

Duh! I said the same thing twice!

 

Paul beat anything around my area by a good margin even after including shipping (especially on the low iron). I'm guessing he steals it off the back of glass trucks. J/K. And the edgework on the glass is A+. Most of the places here wanted extra for doing the edges. Also the glass was cut EXACTLY on the mark. It arrived in flawless condition.

 

Also, I thought I read it hear but I was wrong...I thought I would let people know though. I read somewhere where someone was saying that the 999-A silicon was the same stuff Elos uses for there tanks. I found a thread online last night where someone posted that they actually spoke to the people at Elos and Elos sent them the specifications of the silicone they use (and they posted the specs). I compared their specs to the specs of the 999-A from Dow and Corning, and the 999-A is a little over 1/2 as strong as what they use when you compare the shear, tensile, and shear strengths. I still believe it is stronger than the AGA Aquarium silicone, but can't find any spec data on that anywhere. Any help on that would be awesome.

 

You wouldn't happen to have those specs would you? While the 999 is probably enough to hold my tank this is one area I would really like to overbuild it as much as possible.

[tperkins]

Paul beat anything around my area by a good margin even after including shipping (especially on the low iron). I'm guessing he steals it off the back of glass trucks. J/K. And the edgework on the glass is A+. Most of the places here wanted extra for doing the edges. Also the glass was cut EXACTLY on the mark. It arrived in flawless condition.

 

Agreed 100%

 

I'd be interested in seeing what Elos actually uses as well. maybe for future reference.

[smcnally]

You wouldn't happen to have those specs would you? While the 999 is probably enough to hold my tank this is one area I would really like to overbuild it as much as possible.

 

Here's the specs I found that is supposed to be what Elos uses

 

ROOM -TEMPERATURE - VULCANIZING SILICONE

specifications-----

Special Feature High tensile strength

Standards FDA 21CFR 177.2600

MIL-A-46106

UL Recognized

UL File No. E-36952

UL 94 HB

Cross Reference RTV 102, DC 732

Uncured Properties

Consistency Paste

Color Black

Specific Gravity 1.05

Tack Free Time 20 min

Cure Through Time

( 77°F / 50% relative humidity / 1/8" thick) 7 days

Cure Time

(@ 77°F /50% relative humidity) 3 days

Useful Temp. Range -60°C to 205°C

(-75°F to 400°F)

Cured Properties - MECHANICAL

Hardness 30 (Shore A)

Tensile Strength 2.8 kg/cm2 (400 psi)

Elongation 450%

Tear Strength 8 kg/cm

45 lb/in

Peel Strength 7 kg/cm

40 lb/in

Cured Properties - ELECTRICAL

Volume Resistivity 3 x 1015 ohm · cm

Dielectric Strength 20 kV/mm

500 V/mil

Dielectric Constant 2.8 @ 60 Hz

Cured Properties - THERMAL

Thermal Conductivity 0.5 x 10-4 cal/sec/cm2

Brittle Point -60°C (-75°F)

Thermal Expansion 7 x 10-5 (°C)-1

Other

Viscosity (@ 25°C) 400 g/min

 

 

And Here's the Specs for the 999-A

 

ASTM C 679 Tack-Free Time

at 25°C (77°F), 50% RH minutes 10-20

Tooling Time minutes 5-10

ASTM C 639 Flow, Sag or Slump Nil

Color Clear, white, bronze, light

bronze, black, aluminum

and custom colors

As Cured – 7 days at 25°C (77°F) and 50% RH

ASTM D 2240 Durometer Hardness, Shore A points 25

ASTM D 412 Ultimate Tensile Strength psi (MPa) 325 (2.1)

ASTM D 624 Tear Strength ppi (kN/m) 25 (4.4)

ASTM C 794 Peel Strength pli (kN/m) 20 (3.5)

ASTM C 603 Extrusion Rate g/min 350