Carressa Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 Humm....looks like I killed this thread.. Link to comment
aquamac Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 I replaced the fans in my RSM back in February, and found there were two issues contributing to noise. 1. the stock fans were high RPM 2. the mounting of the fans resulted in vibrations which made things louder I replaced the fans with lower RPM fans (I think the factory has also now moved to a lower RPM fan) and mounted them in different locations (not in the fan slots) which eliminated the vibrations. Here is a link to the thread where I swapped the fans...should be enough info to determine if your DIY skills are up to the task. I found it pretty simple... Link to comment
SecondBreath Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 I don't think anyone's jumping the gun with modding to MH... side by side, lumens or no, there simply is no comparison between the two lighting. That said, I think the stock lighting is underrated and is better than what most expect but even Red Sea will tell you that the types of live stock that can be grown under the lighting is limited especially in terms of sps. For me it was about having the option (which I've exercised with my coral choices) to grow any coral I wanted without having to worry about my lighting needs. Secondly, as I said before you simply CANNOT tell me that T5's look any where near as bright or as beautiful with its shimmer lines as MH. Efficeincy is one thing, but the reality is a bit different when you've experienced both types of lighting on the same tank... Link to comment
shramj Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 When is nano-tuners going to start offering the MH upgrade? What did it cost? My tank has been running really hot, 87 today! I am going to have to get a chiller so getting MH down the road is an option. Link to comment
REG255 Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 When is nano-tuners going to start offering the MH upgrade? What did it cost? My tank has been running really hot, 87 today! I am going to have to get a chiller so getting MH down the road is an option. I e-mailed them and they sent me this link. It appears it is a DIY. Detailed information on the HQI retros for the Red Sea can be found at the below link: http://www.nanocustoms.com/index.php?cPath...amp;filter_id=5 Link to comment
SecondBreath Posted May 15, 2007 Author Share Posted May 15, 2007 Or you can just buy the whole thing from start to finish from them. http://www.nanocustoms.com/product_info.ph...;products_id=18 Not cheap by any means, especially when you start adding things like a chiller but having done this already I can't tell you how great the tank looks and works. Very minimal upkeep/effort on my part and my various sps and especially my clam are doing fantastic! Link to comment
OneHump Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Or you can just buy the whole thing from start to finish from them. http://www.nanocustoms.com/product_info.ph...;products_id=18 Not cheap by any means, especially when you start adding things like a chiller but having done this already I can't tell you how great the tank looks and works. Very minimal upkeep/effort on my part and my various sps and especially my clam are doing fantastic! Wow... I need this. Link to comment
shramj Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 The fans I chose for the hood have a patented 'Vapo' bearing which is supposed to be even longer lasting and quieter; they have a lower RPM (3700) but slightly higher CFM rating (10.2) than the one Neil recommended. They are also rated 3 dBA quieter.Sunon Fans I have found a 50mm x 10mm fan to use but I need to find a DC-AC Adapter, can anyone post a link? Link to comment
aquamac Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Assuming you found a 12v fan, almost any old 'wall wart' power adapter left over from other electronic devices will work...many are 12v output. Just look for the rating on the transformer. Use a voltmeter to determine positive/negative and wire to the fan accordingly (red=positive.) A 12v fan will run at a lower RPM if you use a lower voltage, this is sometimes useful. Link to comment
bgoldwyn Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 When is nano-tuners going to start offering the MH upgrade? What did it cost? My tank has been running really hot, 87 today! I am going to have to get a chiller so getting MH down the road is an option. i have been runnig a RSM for about a month now with a few LPS. do you who have one belive the black filter media should be totally removed to give more waterflow to the Skimmer.. ivae about 1/4 left with POLYPAD above it it is almost impossible to regularly check or replace the carbon..having to remove both pumps. how do you feel about putting carbon in the chiler compartment ..after the skimmer before the heater and pump????? Link to comment
SecondBreath Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 I wouldn't recomend removing the black filter altogther but certainly cut it in half at the least. Personally, I'd want t stop as much of the larger crap before it gets to my skimmer rather than afterward where it can get trapped in the heater or carbon area, let alone the skimmer and return pumps. Link to comment
shiveley Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 For those of you who haven't already seen this video; Take a Tour of the RSM! http://www.redseamax.com/redseamax/downloa...x_Tour_High.wmv Link to comment
bbleifus Posted May 20, 2007 Share Posted May 20, 2007 I have been doing research for a reef system. I was look at the RSM and then started looking at a 90 gallon. It would take about 3000 dollars to get the 90 gallon set up right. I scares me to spend that much money on a new hobby. I think I will go with the RSM to start out with along with the MH upgrade. SB did you consider the 70W MH. What color MH did you go with and what is the difference between the colors (10000K or 12000K)? I am an electrican and I should be able to do the DIY lighting upgrade myself. Link to comment
Irie Mon Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 i have been runnig a RSM for about a month now with a few LPS. do you who have one belive the black filter media should be totally removed to give more waterflow to the Skimmer.. ivae about 1/4 left with POLYPAD above it it is almost impossible to regularly check or replace the carbon..having to remove both pumps. how do you feel about putting carbon in the chiler compartment ..after the skimmer before the heater and pump????? Good question, I was wondering the same myself. I have had the original carbon bag in there for nearly two months now just cause I don't feel like taking those pumps out. I guess I have to replace with new carbon soon huh? How long is too long?? Link to comment
aquamac Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 I would think 70 watts would not be worth the effort compared to the stock lighting...SB? I have been doing research for a reef system. I was look at the RSM and then started looking at a 90 gallon. It would take about 3000 dollars to get the 90 gallon set up right. I scares me to spend that much money on a new hobby. I think I will go with the RSM to start out with along with the MH upgrade. SB did you consider the 70W MH. What color MH did you go with and what is the difference between the colors (10000K or 12000K)? I am an electrican and I should be able to do the DIY lighting upgrade myself. Link to comment
SecondBreath Posted May 21, 2007 Author Share Posted May 21, 2007 I'm not an expert on MH by any means but I don't think 70w on a 34 gallon would be worth the expense...I'd just go the distance and get the 150w. But having said that, putting either one 2-3 inches above the water will provide some pretty intense lighting at least near the surface. Not sure what's gained with regards to temps and energy saved by going with 70w over the 150w though... I'd ask Chris at Nanotuners. When they did my upgrade they didn't offer the option of doing a 70w so its saved me the trouble of trying to decide. =) Link to comment
Mike Savage Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 I like the look of corals floresceing under actinics and like the sunrise/sunset affect. Is there any easy way to get this on these tanks? Maybe a strip of 18-20 blue LEDs would work well for this? Any thoughts? Mike Link to comment
aquamac Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 If you mean power the actinics but not the 10k, no, there is no easy way. I like the look of corals floresceing under actinics and like the sunrise/sunset affect. Is there any easy way to get this on these tanks? Maybe a strip of 18-20 blue LEDs would work well for this? Any thoughts? Mike Link to comment
Mike Savage Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 If you mean power the actinics but not the 10k, no, there is no easy way. Nope. What I mean is a separate bank of blue LED lights to come on an hour before the main lights and turn off an hour after the main lights. Like a transition between full dark and full light. Mike Link to comment
aquamac Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 Sure, you could add another set of LEDs with a timer to get that effect. Link to comment
Irie Mon Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Anyone use Chemi Pure Elite packs in replacement of just activated carbon? Link to comment
MAXreefer Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Just started using the Chemi Pure. Replaced the bag with carbon that came with the RSM starter kit with the Chemi Pure. Only running it now for 1 week but the water is very clear and my water parameters are great Michael Link to comment
Irie Mon Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Good to hear, gonna replace the carbon the RSM came with and add chemi pure. Link to comment
Nirvana Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 SB i saw your sand is always really clean. How do you keep it so clean? Link to comment
Dallas Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 I'm not an expert on MH by any means but I don't think 70w on a 34 gallon would be worth the expense...I'd just go the distance and get the 150w. But having said that, putting either one 2-3 inches above the water will provide some pretty intense lighting at least near the surface. Not sure what's gained with regards to temps and energy saved by going with 70w over the 150w though... I'd ask Chris at Nanotuners. When they did my upgrade they didn't offer the option of doing a 70w so its saved me the trouble of trying to decide. =) This is completely off subject, but it appears you have had a Red Sea Max for awhile and have already gone though the whole process of getting your tank up and running. My Max has been running for 3 weeks now and I’ve run into multiple issues: over heating, micro bubbles, and so on. I’ve already replaced the skimmer pump inlet, per Rea Seas direction, to fix the micro bubbles and cycled the tank with 20 lbs of established live rock and water from a friend’s tank. Everything was going well for awhile but now I’ve got what appears to be some type of bacteria bloom, white specks everywhere. I did a 15 to 20 percent water change and tested all my levels (NH3, Nitrite, and Nitrate) and everything looks fine. The water in the skimmer chamber looks like it stagnant with a film and bubbles resting on top; perhaps the skimmer pump is not working properly? Did you run into this? Link to comment
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