AMMONIA help read...

[claval01]

OK Peops, here we go again with my OCD.. but the LFS guy freaked me out so I'm paranoid. My new tank has been up for like a month. I transferred my LR from my old tank that was up for a year. I added new live sand and have been using Nutriwater... I'm afraid that my Ammonia is high what do you guys think...? The pic on the left shows the test run on RO/DI water and the others are from my tank... how do I get this down? Is this going to kill my fish, shrimp, crabs, snails and corals.. BTW the corals seem to be fine, all are out and doin there thing.

[markalot]

0 Ammonia most likely. Thats the best the API kit will get.

[claval01]

...

[markalot]

...

 

Throw away the API ammonia kit, live in peace! At this point everything in the tank will die before the API kit registers any ammonia. Seriously.

[LarryMoeCurly]

I don't think your tank inhabitants would be "fine" if you had measurable ammonia.

[happyhour99]

I don't think your tank inhabitants would be "fine" if you had measurable ammonia.

don't forget the api test measure the total ammonia/ammonium. The actual amount of ammonia (NH3) is a lot lower than the non toxic (NH4). But more NH3 is present at higher pHs.

0.25 total ammonia translates to 0.02 NH3 at ph 8.4 (that why pH swings are dangerous, they can cause the NH3 to swing into dangerous zones)

 

Note: API Ammonia tests are well known for always showing at least 0.25 ppm ammonia. I wouldn't worry about it unless it spikes to 0.5. (If your are worried about it, add a bit of Seachem Prime or head to your LFS and double check)

[claval01]

don't forget the api test measure the total ammonia/ammonium. The actual amount of ammonia (NH3) is a lot lower than the non toxic (NH4). But more NH3 is present at higher pHs.

0.25 total ammonia translates to 0.02 NH3 at ph 8.4 (that why pH swings are dangerous, they can cause the NH3 to swing into dangerous zones)

 

Note: API Ammonia tests are well known for always showing at least 0.25 ppm ammonia. I wouldn't worry about it unless it spikes to 0.5. (If your are worried about it, add a bit of Seachem Prime or head to your LFS and double check)

Cool Thanks guys! I just got home and added a little bit of Prime for my peace of mind

[happyhour99]

nice thing about prime is that it is relatively inexpensive and a little goes a long way (just be warned that it only locks ammonia for a couple of days. it only give protection for your fish so your bacteria has time to take care of the ammonia.)

 

you can also check out ammonia alert from seachem. It continually monitors your ammonia which is really nice, but at the same time its a pain because it only registers free ammonia (NH3) so you have to do some chemistry to find total ammonia. It a pain, because i said in a previous post, NH3 to NH4 ratio changes based on salinity, pH, and Temperature. (i also found that flipping the ammonia alert around give a better indication of color)

Edit: But it is also nice because NH3 is the toxic version ammonia, so the ammonia alert will register if you pH suddenly shifts into the toxic zone for the ration between NH3/NH4

[claval01]

nice thing about prime is that it is relatively inexpensive and a little goes a long way (just be warned that it only locks ammonia for a couple of days. it only give protection for your fish so your bacteria has time to take care of the ammonia.)

 

you can also check out ammonia alert from seachem. It continually monitors your ammonia which is really nice, but at the same time its a pain because it only registers free ammonia (NH3) so you have to do some chemistry to find total ammonia. It a pain, because i said in a previous post, NH3 to NH4 ratio changes based on salinity, pH, and Temperature. (i also found that flipping the ammonia alert around give a better indication of color)

Edit: But it is also nice because NH3 is the toxic version ammonia, so the ammonia alert will register if you pH suddenly shifts into the toxic zone for the ration between NH3/NH4

AWESOME INFO! I just checked that out on the Seachem site.. I gotta find out where I can buy it around here, and how much it is! Thanks!

[happyhour99]

i've seen it for about $5-8 online, but retail at local stores its about 11 (I got mine at petsmart)

[Chadf]

Only noobs test ammonia and ph, stop worrying about it.

[claval01]

Only noobs test ammonia and ph, stop worrying about it.

haha Im a total noob ha

[happyhour99]

Only noobs test ammonia and ph, stop worrying about it.

no offense, but the first sign (and worst) that your tank is about to crash or do a mini cycle, is a spike in ammonia. Its just a good idea to test for it in some form that way you can neutralize it, or remove your lifestock

[Chadf]

no offense, but the first sign (and worst) that your tank is about to crash or do a mini cycle, is a spike in ammonia. Its just a good idea to test for it in some form that way you can neutralize it, or remove your lifestock

I haven't run an ammonia, nitrite, or ph test in almost 2 years. It's pointless if you have properly cycled the tank, ammonia will never be detectable.

[happyhour99]

I haven't run an ammonia, nitrite, or ph test in almost 2 years. It's pointless if you have properly cycled the tank, ammonia will never be detectable.

Hi

Lucky you. I'm glad you've been doing great.

 

but i would refer you to these other threads. \

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/254577-restructured-reef-scape-mini-cycle/

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/276597-mini-cycle-omg/

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/305643-ammonia-spike/

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/246908-my-reef-tank-is-dying-please-help/

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/179294-overfeedingammonia/

 

you can get ammonia spikes from

Something died

restructuring you LR

release of a lot of detritus from cleaning

add chlorinated water (kill off bacteria)

too much lifestock

overfeeding

and more

 

Ammonia is the first and most deadly sign something is wrong. Just because you have a cycled tank doesn't mean there will not be a mini cycle later on or even a worst a tank crash. that why i like ammonia alert, it will tell you if you get a ammonia spike without doing a tests. (especially since API ammonia tests are a pain)

[Chadf]

So that's where ammonia comes from, thanks for the education.

[You_Wrasse_is_Mine]

Lol. If your having such a hard time reading these kits, get new ones!!! This has got to be the 2nd or 3rd thread I've seen you post about not being able to read the API tests.

 

I can read them just fine in your pictures. The colors from the API kits and the color cards will not match perfectly. The chances are pretty rare regardless of what brand or color card/test you use that the color cards and test sample will match any color on the color card exactly.

 

Yellow means 0 or next to near 0 ammonia. Read the instructions that come with the kit. You do not need to have your results posted on a newly created form for these tests. Lol

[claval01]

Lol. If your having such a hard time reading these kits, get new ones!!! This has got to be the 2nd or 3rd thread I've seen you post about not being able to read the API tests.

 

I can read them just fine in your pictures. The colors from the API kits and the color cards will not match perfectly. This is pretty rare regardless if what brand or color card/test you use.

 

Yellow means 0 or next to near 0 ammonia. Read the instructions that come with the kit. You do not need to have your results posted on a newly created form for these tests. Lol

I hear yea .. Im just paranoid.. I guess I just wanted to get a group of experts opinions... I did get some new kits, my delivery comes today

I now use the Red Sea for Nitrates, I ordered the Red sea reef foundation for Ca, Alk, and Mg and Hanna for Phosphates...

[You_Wrasse_is_Mine]

nice thing about prime is that it is relatively inexpensive and a little goes a long way (just be warned that it only locks ammonia for a couple of days. it only give protection for your fish so your bacteria has time to take care of the ammonia.)

 

you can also check out ammonia alert from seachem. It continually monitors your ammonia which is really nice, but at the same time its a pain because it only registers free ammonia (NH3) so you have to do some chemistry to find total ammonia. It a pain, because i said in a previous post, NH3 to NH4 ratio changes based on salinity, pH, and Temperature. (i also found that flipping the ammonia alert around give a better indication of color)

Edit: But it is also nice because NH3 is the toxic version ammonia, so the ammonia alert will register if you pH suddenly shifts into the toxic zone for the ration between NH3/NH4

I do not recommend using water conditioners such as prime or amquel plus or anything alike in a tank that is cycling. This will throw off your tests and you wont have a clue where your at with your cycle and weather you dosed enough or not. I would keep it on hand for emergency situations only. Water conditioners should not be used lightly IMO. I learned this the hard way and the only way I could get the water back to normal and get the solution out of the water column was to do a 100% water change which brings me to the best answer for removing Amonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes/build ups. Large water changes IMO are the very best/safest way to reduce any element of the nitrogen cycle in any tank.

[You_Wrasse_is_Mine]

I hear yea .. Im just paranoid.. I guess I just wanted to get a group of experts opinions... I did get some new kits, my delivery comes today

I now use the Red Sea for Nitrates, I ordered the Red sea reef foundation for Ca, Alk, and Mg and Hanna for Phosphates...

 

There ya go. They make some good kits.

[happyhour99]

is red sea suppose to be better for nitrates?

I've only heard bad things about the ammonia tests for API

I've actually heard more bad things about red sea than API, has that change recently?

 

I do not recommend using water conditioners such as prime or amquel plus or anything alike in a tank that is cycling. This will throw off your tests and you wont have a clue where your at with your cycle and weather you dosed enough or not. I would keep it on hand for emergency situations only. Water conditioners should not be used lightly IMO. I learned this the hard way and the only way I could get the water back to normal and get the solution out of the water column was to do a 100% water change which brings me to the best answer for removing Amonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes/build ups. Large water changes IMO are the very best/safest way to reduce any element of the nitrogen cycle in any tank.

Unfortunately when i was cycling, i'm pretty sure i slow my cycle way down by Not using prime. My water has chloroamine (i don't have a RODI due to space and cost), and i didn't realize it when i started. I'm pretty sure the chloroamine killed off a bit of my bacteria population. Sadly Prime or a similiar product is the only way to brake that nasty chloroamine bond. (i could boil it but it would literally take days).

As for my tests, its my understanding there is 1ppm of chloroamine in my water which can be calculated ammonia. According to the prime website."Prime® converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily removed by the tank’s biofilter. Prime® may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime® detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them.... Prime® also contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic" My understanding is that it binds ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, but those are still available to local bacterial population.

Note: I agree about not using chemicals when you don't need it. And that it should be a short term problem fixer not a long term to fix a continuous problem. Especially since prime will only bind for 24 to 48 hours.

I don't agree about 100% water changes, I think they are just too shocking to the system of the tank. I think that several large changes (no greater than 50 %) every couple of days in the event of a minor emergency to prevent from shocking your lifestock. (note i've seen some people say that 2 50% changes equal a 100% change. This makes no sense to me 2 50% by math will equal to only a 75 % change, Sorry as a chemist this is an annoyance to me)

[You_Wrasse_is_Mine]

I just typed a huge reply regarding all that but I hit the wrong button and lost it all and I'm not typing it all again right now. Sorry.

[andi.rahl]

why are you so paranoid? that test is pretty clear to me.

[happyhour99]

np, i know how it feels to lose a post

the most interesting thing and most aggravating thing, is that every tank is different. What works for one person may not for another.

[claval01]

why are you so paranoid? that test is pretty clear to me.

I dont have as much experience as you guys so im just coverin my butt...