Daemonfly Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 The thing with the screw-ins is that you get both the bulb heat as well as the heat from the low-quality built-in ballast. The coralife screw-ins, in my experience, run hotter than the LoA bulbs. I've run both 10w & 20w, and without a fan, they cooked the wiring I had in there (standard lamp cord). Even with just the 20w, I had to lift the hood up 2" or else the tank would cook. Hood was completely open back as well. Everything looks good, but just expect the possibility of having some heat issues common to these types of bulbs. You could easily put a fan in that hole thats already there, then reroute the wiring out another smaller one. Link to comment
RyanCD Posted September 27, 2006 Author Share Posted September 27, 2006 Daemonfly and halfpint, thanks for the advice. I will test the temps with the hood on and lighting before I put anything in the tank. However, I do not plan on using the coralife bulbs. Like I said above I will be using the LoA bulbs. Daemonfly, you said you have tried both and that the coralife bulbs are much more hot than LoA bulbs. Are you saying you were fine with the LoA's or still have heat issues? Link to comment
PhatSOB Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 the Coralifes do run very hot, I can attest to that. the only reason I am using them is b/c I already have them. I have 2 80mm fans coming to build into my canopy to combat the heat from the bulbs. oh the evaporation is going to be awesome. Link to comment
RyanCD Posted September 28, 2006 Author Share Posted September 28, 2006 Ok, but what about the LoA bulbs with a canopy on...you speculate heat issues with these? Link to comment
Daemonfly Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 I had some heat issues with the LOA bulbs, but it wasn't bad. Your canopy will be larger, so you may not have the issues. You also have room for a fan, etc.. if you do end up with slightly high temps. Link to comment
RyanCD Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Ok, I have added my clean up crew. Yay! 6 hermits (2 scarlets and 4 tiny blue crabs-haven't a clue what they are called), 2 bumble bees, 3 nassaris' (spelling sorry) and 3 astreas. Now here is my current problem and I have a feeling the answer is going to be an AquaClear 20 but here it goes.. My tank temp fluctuates too much and just simply is too cold. During the day it maxes out at 74F and during the night goes down to 70F. My crew is looking lethargic and I know I need to get a heater in there ASAP and bring the temp to 80F. Here is my question: Where do I hide the heater?? I found an Azoo Titanium 50 watt that is 5.75". Would that fit into the back of an AquaClear 20? Is that what you all do? Would there be room to fit the heater and mod the filter so I can have Chaeto? or should I simply hide the heater in my rock work? The only thing that makes me a little leary of this idea is that if anything should happen to the heater I would have to tear the rock work apart to get to it... Help! Thanks! Link to comment
PhatSOB Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 I have a 25w Hagen Elite submersible heater that I keep in my AC200 <-- not a 20, it is only about 4.5-5" long I think. I also have a couple of pieces of LR, I want to add a bunch more as well as a chunk of red macro that I keep in my main tank, I don't have any cheato. If the heater doesn't fit in your filter then you will need to drop it into your display somewhere. Make sure it is set and working properly for a few days before you bury it in the rock. Link to comment
rleon3003 Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 i wanna see some bumble bee pix. Link to comment
RyanCD Posted October 18, 2006 Author Share Posted October 18, 2006 Thank you for the advice PhatSOB. Now you said you use an Aqua Clear 200??? And that has enough room for everything? That must be for your 10 gal? rleon, been meaning to post pics. Will do so tonight. Still don't have stand completely painted though... Anyone have an AC 20 and some input for me? Thanks! Link to comment
PhatSOB Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 is the AC20 what used to be called a mini. If it is you are going to have trouble fitting a filter in it, they are very small. My AC200 (new name is AC50 I think) is on my 1.6, I only have a AC150 on my 10g. I would say you are going to need a larger filter if you want to get is all out of the display tank Link to comment
RyanCD Posted October 18, 2006 Author Share Posted October 18, 2006 ok thanks for the advice. Now this may be a stupid question but if I get a larger model Aqua Clear for this tank to get everything out of the display tank I know that a large filter is overkill but could it actually hurt a 2.5? Link to comment
circusordie16 Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 you can put a smaller impeller in it so that it will ahve less flow Link to comment
RyanCD Posted October 19, 2006 Author Share Posted October 19, 2006 hmmm ok I know nothing about this but I will definitely look into it. Link to comment
Hekim Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 you can get a AC 70 and replace the impeller with one for a AC20, 30 or 50 without any mod. Makes room for a fuge but can taylor the flow to your needs. Link to comment
tontovila Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 or, just take the impeller out(uber easy once you look at it) and trim off a lil bit of each blade(they're plastic, it's easy) Link to comment
mtfish Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Looks nice so far, the impeller commets are correct. No problems there. I just want to point out that the coralife digital thermometers give accurate temperature readings to ±1.5°F, just something to keep in mind. (I own several of them) Link to comment
skey44 Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 im wokin on a twopointfive also and im thinking about increasing my aquaclear size from twenty. does anyone know if the larger ones will still fit on a 2.5 and not touch the ground in back (are they the same depth). also what is the egg crate material used so often to screen the front of the ac to keep the algae in??? Link to comment
RyanCD Posted October 27, 2006 Author Share Posted October 27, 2006 skey44, the eggcrate material is a grid looking, white plastic material that you can get in any hardware store in the lighting section. It's intended purpose is to go into drop ceilings. As for the question about the Aqua Clears I really don't know as I have a Red Sea. Link to comment
PhatSOB Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 I can say that all up to atleast the AC50 will fit for sure, I have't used any of the bigger ones. The only one that may be close is the 110 and I am pretty sure it would still fit height wise but probaly not length wise. A 110 on a 2.5 would be nice though, almost doubling your water volume. Link to comment
RyanCD Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 Ok, I have run into another problem: flow. I don't want to put any coral in until I have this under control. Right now I have a Red Sea filter and a Mini Jet 404. I know that I need the Mini Jet for added flow because the Red Sea just won't cut it but I hate how the pump takes up so much room and just looks ugly. I want it out of the tank. If I get rid of the Red Sea and the Mini Jet and replace them with the AC filter is that alone enough flow? If not, I would rather stick with what I have (the Red Sea and Mini Jet) and come up with a different option. Would it work if I put the pump in a HOB refugium and put PVC on the pump and create an upside down "U" with the PVC? If you follow what I mean.. This way the pump wouldn't be in the tank but the PVC would allow the flow to continue into the tank and I would drill the end cap. Or could I run into potentially too much head loss? Please help! I don't want to see the pump but then again I don't want to restart my tank because l have to drill... Link to comment
PhatSOB Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 only problem with the pump in the filter would be the water level in the filter would drop and the filter wouldn't be able to keep up. There would have to be an intake and a return going from the pump to the tank. Link to comment
RyanCD Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 Oh, sorry I didn't explain myself well. The pump wont be in the filter. I was talking about building a separate refugium out of acrylic and make it hang on the back and it will house my pump, heater, and chaeto. The filter will be it's own separate entity on the other end of the tank. So like I described above, I am wondering if this "U" out of PVC connecting to the pump would work?? Link to comment
travisurfer Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 nice work, i have a 2.5g pico being built as well. its in the members section though. Link to comment
RyanCD Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 Thanks! Tonight I am FINALLY putting the tank in it's stand after tons of painting mishaps... Link to comment
RyanCD Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 I have pictures of the tank together (although they aren't the greatest shots!)!! Without the lights on With the moon light on When I get home I will take another pic with the daytime lights. Link to comment
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