VermontReef Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 Great tank! How heavy is canopy - is it pine? I'm doing now light box for AH lights using 5/8" thick, 6" high pine, feels heavy. Will 90 g tank hold that weight, in your opinion? The hood is oak, and yes it is heavy. Not sure how much weight you can put on top of a 90 gallon. This setup was custom built by someone who does it for a living so I'm guessing he new what he was doing... I hope Link to comment
VermontReef Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 Thought I would add some pictures of the auto top off I made. It has been running flawlessly since june. Haven't even had to change the batteries. I wanted an auto top-off that didn't use 120v of electricity to power a waterpump. I also didn't want to use an airpump and have to make sure I had a vacuum sealed bottle. While searching ebay I came across this water pump that is normally used for your camp water supply. Figured I would give it a try and what do you know, it worked. Supplies: 1. Water Pump - operates on 2 D batteries and mounts on a 5 gallon water jug like the ones you have delivered by poland springs. (you can also use a different water container but the pump mounts on a 5 gallon jug) I bought the pump on ebaay from this person (illfrom) Cost $21.99 shipped. 2. Float switch - bought it off ebay I believe for around $8.00. The type that has two wires not the Kent type. 3. Water jug. I used the 5 gallon type that this is supposed to mount on, but the pump will work with other types of water containers of larger capacity. Setup: 1. Mount your float switch in the sump at the level you would like the water to be maintained at. I used acrylic and drilled a hole in it and bent the acrylic to sit on the side of my tank. 2. Remove the switch from the top of the pump leaving a hole to the battery compartment. 3. Attach a piece of tubing to the end of the pump output and place the other end in your sump where you want the water to enter. I placed it in a different compartment than the float switch. 4. Attach the wires from the float switch to the pump. when you remove the battery cap, you will see a metal ring around the battery compartment. Attach one wire to it, and the other wire to the positive side of a D battery. I soldered the wires on my pump. Done!! The feed wire from the pump to the sump is misleading in this picture when setup, should lead directly to the sump, not curled up on the floor as pictured. Here is a picture of the feedline into the sump. I used acrylic, shaped it to fit on the side of the tank, and drilled a hole to fit the tube into. I also put the tube in a different compartment than the float switch so the pump supplies a little more water and doesn't run as often. Monitor the level in the tank for a bit to make sure it is functioning correctly. I suppose you could also add on to this setup with your RO/DI and an auto cut off switch for your RO system to refill the 5 gallon jug but I dont have have it lucky enough to have the RO plumbed into the house. There is a post by a fellow reefer on reefcentral who added on to my idea and drilled a hole in the top part of the 5 gallon jug and installed a funnel to refill the jug without removing the pump. Link to comment
proraptor2 Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 nice looking tank.... The pump is cool but I dont like the idea of the D batteries going bad...Do they sell pumps like that that you can plug in? Id also get a couple seios for the tank if you have any sps Link to comment
VermontReef Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 nice looking tank.... The pump is cool but I dont like the idea of the D batteries going bad...Do they sell pumps like that that you can plug in? Id also get a couple seios for the tank if you have any sps You could always buy a 3v adapter and wire that to power the pump. I just didn't want anything that plugs into the wall attached to the float switch. The batteries seem like they will last a long time. They've been in it for almost 2 months and the pump still runs strong when it comes on. I added two more powerheads and am getting a good amount of circulation now. I will be posting some new pics of the tank shortly. I've gone through a couple algae outbreaks but everything seems to have stabalized and coral growth is remarkable. The fuge is growing macro algae like crazy, I have to remove a large ziplock baggy full every 12 days. Link to comment
VermontReef Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 Well, I have begun a new project. FRAG TANK!! I will be posting some pictures soon. I will be building it out of acrylic and the measurements will be 30x30x16. It will stand on a 30" tall stand. I plan on building a double layered frag holders out of eggcrate built into the aquarium that will be removable. I have acquired all the acrylic from a local vendor for $130 all cut to size. I have begun building the stand already. I plan on getting through this project quickly. I will be working off my existing VHO ballast which i'm only using 220 watts right now. I will use the remaining 220watts to power two 110 VHO bulbs and will be looking to buy a single 250w MH ballast and bulb. Link to comment
VermontReef Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 Ok here is the rough schem of what I would like to do. Any experts see anything I might be missing? Keep in mind, I already have the main tank and sump configured like the schem above. I will just be adding the frag tank. Link to comment
VermontReef Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 Ok, heres some pictures of the stand. Just about finished with it. I think this thing could hold a mid sized car, never mind 50-60 gallons of water. Not sure if I'm going to wrap this or not. Didn't really build the frag tank to be pretty and it's in the basement so... And one with the drill to get an idea of size. Link to comment
VermontReef Posted September 28, 2006 Author Share Posted September 28, 2006 Ok the frag tank is put together. Not bad for my first attempt at creating an acrylic tank. I have to install the bulkheads, and possibly and overflow box. Then I will plumb everything into the main tank... after I check for leaks that is. 30"cube x 16" height Link to comment
VannReefer87 Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 very nice vermont, how hard was it making the tank?..I was looking on making a acyrlic tank similar to a 20l for my mantis shrimp Link to comment
SaVeThEeELs Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 believe it or not- that really helps.. THANKS!! Bobbi sup bobbi! another m-town kid!! i use to live by the blue monkey in midtown! anyhoo... of sub.... yeah nice layout better than i can do.... Link to comment
proraptor2 Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 That frag tank is super nice....how much did it cost to make? Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Quick comment, I really love the two island look you have... I'm a big fan of reef aquascaping and you landed in my book of awesome!!! You really have a touch of class in you it shows in your work.... MG Link to comment
VermontReef Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 That frag tank is super nice....how much did it cost to make? Pro, when all is said and done it ended up costing me about $160. The majority of that was the acrylic, $130. They cut it to the sizes I wanted and it was local so that was the way to go. Quick comment, I really love the two island look you have... I'm a big fan of reef aquascaping and you landed in my book of awesome!!! Thanks for the comment MG. I learned when I set this tank up to take time and place all the rocks where they were best suited. All the really big rocks on the bottom. I don't like any of the rocks to touch any part of the glass or the overflow box so there is at least 1" between the rocks and any part of the back wall. I set up the islands because I wanted the fish to have plenty of free space to swim and be comfortable. I also wanted lots of caves under all the rocks. Link to comment
VermontReef Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 Well even though I have the flu it wasn't enough to keep me from doing more work on the frag tank. I drilled some holes, put a sheet of wood across the top of the stand, and built some eggcrate racks. I gotta give props to those of you who have drilled glass tanks. It took me forever to drill an acrylic tank so I couldn't imagine a glass one. Bulkheads installed. It took me a little while to decide how I would set-up the eggcrate racks but this is what I came up with. Maybe I'll add more in the future but I got a feeling I will have plenty of room for awhile. Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Simply put, Your work is in a class of its own... You really have patience and it shows up in your work... MG Link to comment
VermontReef Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 Ok so I got the Frag tank plumbing together. I just have to connect to the existing plumbing on the 90 gallon. Here are some more pics. Tank and frag tank w/flash w/o flash Link to comment
I Take Pictures Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Most impressive! Is the frag gonna stay in that same spot there, I thought you said something about in the basement maybe? Link to comment
Micro-Reefs Aquariums Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Is that hair algae growing all over your back wall on the glass? The reason I ask, is that as I reset my 72 gallon bowfront I got a bad case of hair algae on my powerheads. I purchased 10 margaritas snails and one lettuce nudibrach and three tangs, they wiped out the hair algae in 2 days. My reef has never looked better.... MG Link to comment
VermontReef Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 Most impressive! Is the frag gonna stay in that same spot there, I thought you said something about in the basement maybe? Unfortunately, they are both in the basement. Didn't want to chance having the 90 upstairs and having it fall through the floor. Not my house so I didn't want to add supports. Is that hair algae growing all over your back wall on the glass? The reason I ask, is that as I reset my 72 gallon bowfront I got a bad case of hair algae on my powerheads. MG Actually, its a hard algae that requires a razorblade to scrape it off. Every once in awhile I remove it but it grows back within 3-4 weeks. Don't really have any hair algae anywhere. Link to comment
VermontReef Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share Posted October 2, 2006 Filled the tank up last night and it holds water. It will only be filled up to about 12" and I estimate that it will be in the range of 55-60 gallons. Now I need a light. Anyone have a 250 watt MH ballast, pendant, and bulb for sale at a reasonable price? Link to comment
VermontReef Posted October 15, 2006 Author Share Posted October 15, 2006 Ok I found a 400watt halide ballast and bulb for $100 so I got it set up and filled. Added a few frags I had in my main tank. Here are some pics. Link to comment
sweevo Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Hi, great setup VermontReef, wish I was brave enough to knock up my own acrylic tank. I don't think i'd be able to relax if I wasn't in the same room as the tank ! I'm going to be upgrading my current setup in the summer and i'm wanting to do things as "naturally" as possible this time around, ie make use of a plenum and DSB as well as LR etc. I noticed that one of your first remarks was that plenum's had always worked for you in the past. I've looked on here, Reef Central & Garf and there are mixed opinions on this kind of setup. Having said that most of the negative comments seem to come from people who've never had one in their setup which is why I thought i'd ask you. My new setup is likely to be 36"x24"x24" and I was planning to set it up using the guide on Garf.org which looks pretty much the way you've done it yourself. My current sump is quiet noisey so i'm planning to ditch that and use LR, a plenum, a DSB and a Skimmer (HOB or internal) all in/on the main tank. So basically I just wondered what the longest period you had run a plenum and DSB for was and what the sandbed looked like when you actually upgraded and moved tanks? We're you ever worried that your DSB might release hydrogen sulphide and kill your fish due to state of the DSB and did it ever influence you to upgrade/switch tanks? Thanks in advance. Link to comment
MJD Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 Awesome tank, a inspiration for my future 90g. BTW what kind of skimmer are you using? MJD Link to comment
mels95yj Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 That's one of the cleanest and coolest prop tanks I've seen! Very cool. Nice setup. Mel Link to comment
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