Izzue Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Radar Cant send you PM...your box is full Izzue Link to comment
chaostactics Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 any updates on these guys? How are they holding out, are they still functioning, did the bonds hold? Link to comment
strangelove Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 Bueller... Bueller... Link to comment
SbCaes Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 Bueller... Bueller... I wish someone would just sell modded out scwds or something we we can get "better" made products ;p he.he.he. Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 Mine are still working (2 now). They are really no different than a regular scwd as far as reliability... internals stay the same. Its just the ports that change. Link to comment
fat-tony Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 still functioning here too. it's hooked up to a 1" slip bulkhead in the center of the top back Link to comment
IdahoReef Posted June 7, 2008 Share Posted June 7, 2008 anyone do a 4 port yet? Not sure, but how about EIGHT!!! http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...mp;pagenumber=1 My big problem right now is getting a good seal on the input tubing. I REALLY don't want to have to mod it to get a good seal. Any ideas? I am using the black tubing that is smooth on the inside and has the spiral on the outside for flexibility. It is sold at Marine Depot, I believe. Tubing LInk Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted June 7, 2008 Share Posted June 7, 2008 Not sure how to get a good seal with that tubing... A hose clamp prolly won't do it. Link to comment
ha-eun Posted June 7, 2008 Share Posted June 7, 2008 8 port !! in-action videos are much desired. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 Nice work! How much flow can you put through that? Link to comment
dja1980 Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Alright, time to catch up on ond projects... Here are a couple SCWDs that I modded a little different. The inlets and outlets are cut off with a dremel shaping wheel, and sanded to be flat. Then I used 3/4" CPVC on the inlets and outlets, bonding them in place with PVC cement (bonds very well with ABS), and finished off with Weldon #16. Then I put the regular cleanout cap on only the top for cleaning out the revolving door... as the bottom now have excellent accessability due to the 3/4" piping. I did these for a couple buddies and they love them... they now realize how restricted their regular old SDWDs really are... Is it advantageous to cut the top of the SCWD as opposed to the bottom? Also, it was mentioned that a "regular cleanout" was glued to the top in the above example. I would assume that the bottom of the cleanout adapter was cut off since there is no room to glue anything on the inside of the SCWD at the top since the revolving door would get in the way. Unless I'm missing something, it looks like the only way to add a cleanout to the top is to glue the SCWD body and cleanout adapter end-to-end. Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Is it advantageous to cut the top of the SCWD as opposed to the bottom? Yes because it allows you to take out all the machinery if you need to but poses less risk of messing up the flow pattern. Also, it was mentioned that a "regular cleanout" was glued to the top in the above example. I would assume that the bottom of the cleanout adapter was cut off... Yes indeed. You will have to cut off the bottom of the cleanout adapter (I strongly recommend the use of a saw and not a dremel for this) then you need to sand it flat. Do the same for the top of the SCWD. ... it looks like the only way to add a cleanout to the top is to glue the SCWD body and cleanout adapter end-to-end. You are correct. This is usually called a butt-joint. It works flawlessly provided the joining edges are sanded flat. You can use standard all-purpose PVC glue to join them. I believe the SCWD body might be made of ABS. Link to comment
dja1980 Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Yes because it allows you to take out all the machinery if you need to but poses less risk of messing up the flow pattern. Thanks, Mr. Fosi! I cut mine at the top last night, but couldn't figure out how to get the "machinery" out. The only thing I could remove was the revolving door... simply unscrewed it from its post. I was hoping to have access to the gears also since I believe I might have some debris stuck in there. Is it possible to get to the gears from the top, or do I have to cut the bottom also? I really liked the idea of not messing with the flow pattern. Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 To get the machinery out (without cracking the housing open at the seams) you have to squeeze unit. Could have sworn that UTR posted something about that earlier in this thread. Couldn't find that comment I was thinking of. Must have been in another thread. Anyway, in the pic below you can see how it is held in place. If you squeeze the housing a bit, the grooves holding the pod will separate a little and you should be able to pull it out. I would avoid doing this unless you really needed to though... Link to comment
dja1980 Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Ah... I thought this might only be accesible from the bottom. That makes sense though. I would avoid doing this unless you really needed to though... Maybe it would be easier to just make another cut at the bottom to give me another point of access? I cleaned it from the top as much as I could without removing the "machinery". Unfortunately, it seems to still sporadically stop spinning when I blow through it. There's got to be a piece of sand or something in the gears causing this. Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Well, UTR said that the ones from which he removed the bottom functioned fine, so yours probably will. I decided not to cut the bottom completely off mine and instead only ported it out. Link to comment
dja1980 Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Nice! In addition to PVC cement, did you use silicone to seal up the seams? I like the look of the ABS cleanout. It looks as though your cleanout overhangs the top a bit... reminds me a lot of new 1" version of the SCWD... Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 I used loctite's GOOP equivalent but silicone would probably work as well. Even though I took extra care to seal the seams with PVC cement, I wanted to hedge my bets. I didn't apply the loctite until the cement had time to cure. There wasn't much help for the cleanout overhang... The 1.5" would have fit, but it wouldn't have allowed total access to the innards. The 2" adapter has an inner diameter (ID) that is just a little larger than the SCWD so there is no problem removing the shutter. I like the look of the new SCWD but I don't like the price. My ports are only 3/4" but they were made with thin-walled PVC so they have a little larger ID than the regular sch-80 PVC. I also used threaded fittings so I could keep my options open. Link to comment
IdahoReef Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Is the ID of the 2" large enough that the body will slip into the cleanout or is it just too tight to fit in that one could do a little reaming and get a tighter fit? Clear as mud? Just want to know how tight it would fit the body. Link to comment
dja1980 Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 I think I'm going to look for the 2" ABS tomorrow. I looked at Home Depot on Sunday, but they didn't have it. Does anyone know if you can get ABS at Lowes or Menards? I also looked for the Weld-On #16, but haven't had any luck finding that either. I'm guessing people order that stuff online? Thanks for the tip on squeezing the SCWD to get the "machinery" out, Mr Fosi. I gave it a try tonight, and it worked like a charm. I even pulled apart the housing for the gears and cleaned everything up with a toothbrush before putting it back together. It's definitely spinning A LOT better now! Link to comment
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