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Coral Vue Hydros

24g Lighting Upgrades


nanocustoms.com

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I believe it was old stock they sent us. We still haven't received the newest 24g tanks yet. However, I believe we're expecting them soon.

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Chris might be able to give a better idea on ETA. I think the only real difference between the new version and the older version is the splashguard. The new version should have a splashguard much like the current '05 12 gal. DX models, which will keep out moisture and salt creep.

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so does that mean you won't be doing any further mods to the 24g? what would be a good do-it-yourself mod for the 24g? is it lacking anything in particular?

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well, I went ahead and bought the 24g dx (old version with the moon lights) should be here in about a week. I'm going to mod the lighting on it. can I fit 4 36 watt bulbs under the splash screen? I have a chiller coming and I'm going to see about extending the splash screen for the fans and adding a fuge light.

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We will do some mods, but it pretty much is limited to some lighting mods. This is purely because of the design used for the splashguard. We are waiting for the new '05 version (assuming it's like the '05 on the 12g) so we can really do the mods we want to.

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Just a note here:

Purchased and installed the lighting upgrade for the 24dx.

 

The support was quick and accurate (under 1 hour response no less)

 

Went pretty much without a hitch, I did keep the original transformer for the fans (located it left of the oe ballast)

 

Would be nice to see the reflector made of something other than galvanized steel (for a higher grade reflective finish) I doubt it has a lot of effect on total light output however.

 

Total time to make mod was about 45 minutes. I would say the comparison to a amplifier install would be appropriate.

 

I did use wire nuts on the main ballast leads as the included crimp style were to small when wiring in the oe transformer for fans.

 

No strain reliefs for any of the cables was a drag.

 

It surely makes a dramatic difference in the back half of the tank.

 

I am wondering if there is enough light leakage into the back sumps to support any type of macro algae?

 

Considering the tight confines of the area, the holes in the new shield were located correctly and that is pretty important as there are only 2 punched for attachment to the lid. I am guessing that one could locate the bosses and make 1 or 2 more holes for attaching the light assy.

 

Good product overall IMO. Thanks Chris for the help btw.

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Revkev, I just got the 24g non-dx cube. Didn't want the stock moonlights because I bought the r2 led from nanocustoms. Would have had to re-wire the stock moonlights anyway to get them off the main power. I also bought a sunpaq retrofit 2x32 wants. It should be here by friday and then I will mod the hood. I already re-wired the stock fans to an power adapter so I can put them on a timer.

 

RandyO, What updgrade did you get for the 24dx?

 

Damage

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Go to walmart or home depot, get aluminum ducting tape and put it on your reflector. It's very shiny, big strips, and heat doesn't bother it. It can even be used to gaurd wires from heat. (just an idea, I know my roll I use for tons of things) According to 3M, it has no flash point, no flammable limits, and no incompatable materials.

 

Pic...cause I like to post them

mediawebserver.dyn?444444VTd894fPm4zPm444RXf85llllK-

This strong flexible tape can be used as a high temperature heat reflective, protective wrap for heat sensitive cables and other instruments in many aerospace and industrial applications.

 

AKA: instant reflector

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Damage, I've been talking with Nanocustoms a little about what I should do with mine. I'm thinking of getting a couple more 36 watt pc's to put in there, but nanocustoms says between the heat and the water vapor in the shield I will probably have problems. I'm going to wait until I get my tank and see what my limitations are regarding the splash guard.

 

and that tape looks perfect to put on the plastic part of the hood when doing a metal halide conversion!

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Revkev,

 

The limitations of the splashguard is that it does not go all the way back and cover the fans. Supposedly the fans can pull up moisture and ********* could be a problem. I'm will monitor my hood once it goes up for any major ********* into the fans and corrosion.

 

If necessary I am sure some kind of guard can be fabricated to cover those fans completely.

 

Damage

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The problem with covering the fans is that there won't be enough air flow to the surface of the water.

I installed a makeshift splashguard by placing an acrylic sheet right on the lip of the tank and remove the factory splashguard. Air temp was down but water temp was rising fast.

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well, luckily for me I have a chiller coming for mine as well. should keep my water temps down. I will definately put a splash screen extension on and some more fans if I can fit them in. all on seperate timers so that I can time the extra fans to be on with the lights. I will probably grab some of that heat tape as well. should work very well as a reflector in the refuge I'm going to put in the second chamber

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I will wait to see if there are any problems with splashguard. Other people use the 24g and I have not heard any problems yet.

 

I have re-wired my stock fans to a 12v 1000ma power adapter. It seems to overclock the stock fans so it will keep the water temps down. I bought some startech.com fans for better cooling as the stock fans only get 14 cfm's. The fans I bought get 22cfm's but they are 28 dba's which I found out to be ridiculously loud and not worth it.

 

My tank running at ambient temps with the stock powerhead runs at 80.2-80.9 with no hood. With the hood on and fans on it runs about 2-3 degrees cooler. I think the temps are because of the stock powerhead which runs hot.

 

Damage

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i have heard you will burn out the stock fans fairly quickly doing that. look into something nice and quiet and get a variable resistor from radioshack to put on your power adapter. that way you can turn the fans down to get accpetable noise leves and still get the cooling you desire.

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Incidently, the fans should be 12V already, if they picked up speed it is probably due to the oe transformer being inadequate or they were wired with less than 12 volts.

Computers run on 2 voltages 12 and 5. Many fans are have resisters to move them down into the 7-8 volt range to quiet them down. You will find Panaflow fans to be among the quietest for CFM.

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The simplest solution is to use a variable voltage AC adapter to quiet down the fans. They can be bought nearly everywhere and are usually billed as 3-12v AC adapters.

 

 

I however, run/test my systems at the fans rated voltage (12v).

 

In early may, i will be launching a DIY division of nanocustoms, and it should feature an array of fans and accessories for the DIY'r.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Chris

 

ps... Because of the nature of thread based communication: "post-wait for reply" Try calling me for more direct answers.

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Thank's for the info Chris. Some clown at radio shack told me you cannot run 12v fans on anything less than 12v's of power.

 

I definitely believe you over the radio shack dude.

 

Damage

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