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Dwarf Angelfish

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seabass
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Dwarf Angelfish, a.k.a. Centropyge Angelfish

Flame_angelfish_(Centropyge_loricula).jpg

Centropyge Angelfish are known as Dwarf Angelfish, as they are smaller than other marine angelfish.  Centropyge Angelfish are prone to nip at corals and clam mantles, so they might be more suitable in a fish only with live rock (FOWLR) tank.  Out of this group, Coral Beauty Angelfish and Flame Angelfish are usually considered the most reef compatible.  Dwarf Angelfish require a considerable amount of live rock for foraging as well as for shelter.

 

Centropyge Angelfish are born female and are capable of changing to male when the need arises.  However, to prevent aggression with its own kind, it is usually best to keep only one Dwarf Angelfish in your tank.

 

Centropyge Angelfish are omnivores which will benefit from grazing on macroalgae within your tank; but additional algae matter should also be provided via spirulina, marine algae, and high-quality angelfish preparations.  In addition, they require other quality meaty foods (like Rod's Food and mysis shrimp).  Due to their predisposition to graze on macroalgae and to nip at coral polyps, it is usually not recommended to house Dwarf Angels with expensive corals and/or decorative macroalgae.

 

Pygmy Angelfish (Centropyge argi) a.k.a. Cherub Angelfish

Max Size: 3"
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Care level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Origin: Caribbean
Cherub_fish_Centropyge_argi.jpg
 
Flameback Angelfish (Centropyge acanthops)
Max Size: 3"
Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
Care level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Origin: Africa
Centropyge_acanthops_Réunion.JPG
 
Coral Beauty Angelfish (Centropyge bispinosa)
Max Size: 4"
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
Care level: Easy
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Origin: Fiji, Indonesia
Centropyge_bispinosa_1.jpg
 
Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loricula)
Max Size: 4"
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
Care level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Origin: Christmas Island, Marshall Islands
Flame_angelfish_(Centropyge_loricula).jpg
 
Rusty Angelfish (Centropyge ferrugata)
Max Size: 4"
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
Care level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Origin: Indonesia

Centropyge_ferrugata.jpg

 

Bicolor Angelfish (Centropyge bicolor)
Max Size: 6"
Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Care level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Reef Compatible: With Caution
Origin: Fiji, Indonesia, Melanesia

1_centropyge_bicolor_Bicolor_angelfish.jpg

 

Photos by image.png.764b7df6a2818ad7ca0b4ddd2d888742.png

 

Saltwater Fish Index

 

Edited by seabass
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stevie1493

Great write up with helpful info @seabass

 

Do you have experience quarantining these fish? My LFS has Coral Beauties, Flames, and a whitetail pygmy (Centropyge flavicauda). I am considering purchasing one specimen to put in a 20g QT this week. My display is a 55g semi-aggressive mixed reef with 4 small fish.

 

Their coral beauty specimens have been in house for 1-2 weeks and most of them appear stressed, but eating brine. Some have large white spots near their gills/fins 😕 They are all 3-4" specimens. They are in a FO system that runs copper.

 

The flames are MUCH smaller and in a reef system (no Cu). All small 1.5-2" specimens. Appear to be healthy and eating.

 

The whitetail pygmy they have had for months and appears healthy and alert. Clearly is eating well.

 

Would you put them in observation QT or directly in a medicated Cu bath? I have Cupramine and a Hanna copper checker. I know they are more sensitive to Cu, especially the flames.

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seabass

I don't have experience treating dwarf angels.  However, I've heard that they are especially sensitive to ammonia, but relatively tolerant of copper treatments when levels are raised gradually (like over 4 or 5 days).

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Tamberav

I would not purchase the coral beauties since they seem not in ideal health. 

 

I hybrid TTM everything but if you want to do observation, just set it up very nice and cycled. Not just gross white PVC pipe. Get some fake plants and darker decorations and things. Stuff that will look more natural and keep stress down. Also a peroxide bath before they go into QT/observation is probably a good idea. 

 

I don't believe they are THAT sensitive to copper. The problem is that we used to have really crappy color chart copper kits and there was a old more popular form of copper that was pretty damn hard on fish. If you use hannah then you should be able to get an accurate reading. Copper power/copper safe is supposed to be more gentle on fish than cupramin. 

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stevie1493
2 hours ago, Tamberav said:

I would not purchase the coral beauties since they seem not in ideal health. 

Yeah I agree. I was ready to buy the other day but as soon as I observed their condition I walked away. I am leaning towards the whitetail because I'm confident it's healthy based on how long they have had it in stock and it's behavior.

 

2 hours ago, Tamberav said:

I hybrid TTM everything but if you want to do observation, just set it up very nice and cycled. Not just gross white PVC pipe.

I have an established QT that has been set up for 6 months with a large whelk shell and some PVC. I might pick up some fake corals.

 

Thanks for the tips - I will look into them hydrogen peroxide bath

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