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ajkochev

Cheve's 2.6 Gallon Pico

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The next adventure starts today!  6-5-2018

 

Tank:   Aquamaxx 2.6 gallon 12x7x7 inches
Light:  Aquamaxx Prism 300
Filter: AIO overflow and chambers made with .30 inch Black Styrene made for an end to make a penisula tank.
 with Two VicTsing Ultra Quiet 80 GPH powerheads.

 

The tank will have a reverse refugium powered by a couple of USB lights. I like the Walmart Hex 5 Filter pads and will have an area for one of these and space for Chem Pure Blue and Phosguard.  There is a lot to do before the tank starts cycling.  I need to make the overflow first.  I'm going to test the heat produced by the light for a few weeks as it would be best if I could make a hood for this.  We will see if this is doable with the right ventilation.  Second pic is of the tank with water to check for leaks and to play with the light.

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Cute tank cant wait to see it progress

 

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More work done on the tank this past week. After a couple of days of water in the tank to show it wouldn't leak, I decided to work on the bottom. While I am planning to have a 1/2 inch layer of sand on the bottom. I decided to paint the outside bottom with a textured rust oleum paint called Caribbean Sand. I also wanted the tank raised and a bottom edge like another tank I have. So some black painted wood attached with double sided tape to attach it was used so If I want to I can remove it. The bottom paint turned out really good and looks like almost like sand.

 

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That textured sand paint is pretty neat!  @vlangel did something similar, I think, in her seahorse tank so she could keep it barebottom and still have the look of sand.  She recently added some sand to the tank.

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Well, it has been almost a month of the tank being wet.  It has been a rocky couple of weeks.  I've had to redesign the filter partitions and redo the shell on the hood.  I've also had to create a ATO system.  After two weeks parameters where good and transferred the contents of my 0.5 pico.  I didn't check salinity because I thought it was stable.  My mistake I grossly underestimated the amount of evaporation and my salinity was off the gauge!  This was after a week of no corals opening up and a dead baby brittle star.  I thought it was the light as it is quite bright.  I corrected salinity over the course of a day but still must have done it to fast as my shrimp died.

Anyway here is the tank up and running as of 7-9-2018.  You can see the frame of the hood before adding the shell.  I added another shelf under the light.  I made a rectangular PVC pipe ATO container you can see it in the inside of the hood.

 

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I'm also happy to report that I 3D printed these and they work great. I had to remove the vortex nozzle stirred the sand to much. Would work great in a larger tank. I am using two of the connector nozzles to point the flow towards the surface.

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1 hour ago, ajkochev said:

I'm also happy to report that I 3D printed these and they work great. I had to remove the vortex nozzle stirred the sand to much. Would work great in a larger tank. I am using two of the connector nozzles to point the flow towards the surface.

What type of plastic did you use to print? 

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10 hours ago, mtgmichaelg said:

What type of plastic did you use to print? 

PLA

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In my picos I keep the tempature of the lights down by sealing the lights from the surface of the water with plexi. I then set several fans (40mm or 80mm cpu fans) to blow across the lights and cut a vent hole in the top of the lid. This drops the temperature significantly because the air is forced across the lights and out the vent hole. The lights run cooler and the tank isn't heated as much as a result. This also allows you to have a lid that isn't so tall. Maybe your ato tank could be built into a wooden frame underneath the tank? If this isn't useful info ignore me 🙂 I can post a few pictures if it makes more sense.

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