DaveFason Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Drop a cool blue and replace with a second neutral white. If he likes the Kessil look I would say stick with the two cool blue. Kessil is heavy cool blue/cyanish. Link to comment
R_MC Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 Drop a cool blue and replace with a second neutral white. Well the lime basically counts for 2 neutral white (as far as affect on kelvin) - so that gives roughly 4 white to 8RB+2CB (I don't count violet (420) or cyan). or 2:5 which should give something like 16k-18k Replacing a blue with a NW would give a ratio closer to 5:9 which would give something closer to 10k-12k. Were you thinking something like: (RB RB WW RB RB) + (RB V425 RB V420) + (NW RB NW L) + (C RB B ) ? 2x V, 8x RB, 1xB, 1xC, 1x L, 2x NW, 1xWW Either way the accent channels can be adjusted (unlike kessil) - I could always run the B RB B channel at 500ma to save some hooch and trim the color slightly. Link to comment
Matteo Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 He has some cool stuff. The Lux Z line is great for things like this but not as efficient, can/needs more cooling and the violets/UV are insanely expensive. Evil and I played around with these ~ two years ago but just could not nail down anything. I like how he has the reflector ready for it and looks like a diffuser only option too. The only headache I can see for you is the MASSIVE amount of wiring you will need to do along with beast power supply needed ( if only running one ). Do not take this the wrong way but it seems like you like the look of LEDs at blue spectrum but really enjoy a diffused light. Why not run a simple Sunpower with only two bulbs and then pack it full of pucks ( this guys or mine )? The unit will look cleaner, way easier to wire and nail what seems to be what you are looking for. Again dont take the wrong way! I am just tossing it out there as I have built a ton of custom units for people now. -Dave did we not find a reflector of some sort to DIY over the V3? I completely agree on the wiring. My Hybrid is super clean due to the wiring being all in one place. Due to V3s running on the whiter side 2 blue plus or even going straight actinic T5 would be a good idea if you want bluer. If anything maybe swap a NW or WW or even Lime Diode out for another Royal Blue or Blue on each puck? Link to comment
R_MC Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 Out of curiosity, why do you suggest I favor more White LEDs over adding more white through T5's which typically have a better "white" aesthetic? What if I were to use a Coral Plus and Fiji Purple? If I'm not going with the V3 my goal would be to create an ~18k white with the LED's all at 100%. I think the V3 creates something closer to 10k, with 15k achieved running the whites at 50%. Seems like I could be getting more par out of each array by adding more blues. Link to comment
Matteo Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Out of curiosity, why do you suggest I favor more White LEDs over adding more white through T5's which typically have a better "white" aesthetic? What if I were to use a Coral Plus and Fiji Purple? If I'm not going with the V3 my goal would be to create an ~18k white with the LED's all at 100%. I think the V3 creates something closer to 10k, with 15k achieved running the whites at 50%. Seems like I could be getting more par out of each array by adding more blues. I am confused now, if you want to run at 100% leaving things at a 10k and want an 18k wouldn't using only Blue + achieve that? adding coral plus to the V3 is more white? Link to comment
R_MC Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 If I were to use something other than the NB V3 I would aim for an 18k look when all channels are at 100%. This runs contrary to most fixtures which aim for 10k when everything is at 100. Since the LEDs will be illuminating more from the sides than from directly above I may use whiter bulbs (like Coral Plus) in the T5 fixture. This will give a more accurate noon look as the coral reef is illuminated directly from above by the sun and then receives indirect blue illumination from the sky. (18k LED - center T5) A comparison would be taking a photo on a sunny cloudless day. The shadows will appear bluer due to the illumination from the sky. Example: Link to comment
gus6464 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Ohh you are using T5 as well? I thought you were going LED only. If that is the case then keep the LED layout as it is and supplement with Coral+. Coral+ bulbs are better than white LEDs anyway. Link to comment
smiz Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Man this thread is packed with some great info! Very excited to see the end product, and if you need laser cutting service in the future shoot me a pm! Link to comment
Matteo Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Do you really think you will need to run these Arrays at 100%? seems like overkill? Unless this light fixture is seriously like 5ft from the water and you have BIG ASS TANK In my whole Reef experience I have never ran LEDS over 70% probably Link to comment
gus6464 Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 He is just underestimating the power of Ledil Brooke-W reflectors. They are so good. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Example: Where is Sarah Connor? Theatrus on RC has developed this 16 up PCB which is quite interesting: It's a pity that theatrus used all Zs on this instead of using some Z ES for the Whites and Royal blues. There's a ~6% efficiency gain in the royals alone. Not to mention the better thermal management from the solder pad layout. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Or the Luxeon C for the colors - they aren't TOO much larger than the Z but get their high efficiency back, plus have all colors available. Link to comment
R_MC Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 I'm sure he'd be happy to get your input - He's been super helpful and very much open to conversation. Last night I put together a first pass at an actionable central trough design. Based on 1/2" white birch (will be stained white) and 1" mahogany left natural. Reflective aluminum sheeting will be mounted to the sides and a second piece will hang in the middle. The 5 degree sides will act as an extension of the T5ho reflectors , throwing light deep into the tank.I am either going to get all pieces cut to size / routed at http://www.woodworkerssource.com/or I will have a local carpenter build it. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Or the Luxeon C for the colors - they aren't TOO much larger than the Z but get their high efficiency back, plus have all colors available. And now I have to go download another datasheet. Thanks Ben. Ohhhh the mint spectrum looks neat. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 And now I have to go download another datasheet. Thanks Ben. Ohhhh the mint spectrum looks neat. Yes, basically it is a lime with less phosphor applied to it. Still gives the same effect, just with a touch more blue. Link to comment
Matteo Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 And now I have to go download another datasheet. Thanks Ben. Ohhhh the mint spectrum looks neat. mint?! soon there is gonna be so many different variations of dies. I just hope they have cool Zoolander names like "blue steel" Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 mint?! soon there is gonna be so many different variations of dies. I just hope they have cool Zoolander names like "blue steel" Yeah, it's a more cyan-ish version of lime. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I'm sure he'd be happy to get your input - He's been super helpful and very much open to conversation. Last night I put together a first pass at an actionable central trough design. Based on 1/2" white birch (will be stained white) and 1" mahogany left natural. Reflective aluminum sheeting will be mounted to the sides and a second piece will hang in the middle. The 5 degree sides will act as an extension of the T5ho reflectors , throwing light deep into the tank. I am either going to get all pieces cut to size / routed at http://www.woodworkerssource.com/or I will have a local carpenter build it. vera nize Yeah, it's a more cyan-ish version of lime. Now they need a wide spectrum blue/Violet. Link to comment
R_MC Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 The rest of the design specs: Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 vera nize Now they need a wide spectrum blue/Violet. That will still take some time lol. Link to comment
R_MC Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 I may place one point source LED in the center of the unit: CREE XHP35 - 90+ CRI cool white Using an optic like: http://www.carclo-optics.com/optic-10391-led-cree-xlamp-xhp35-high-intensity-white The purpose of this chip would be shimmer only. If there were a high CRI 10k that would be ideal, but I've only found 60CRI 10k chips. Link to comment
Matteo Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 The attention to detail on this fixture is nutz! Link to comment
R_MC Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 A quick render of the central piece assembled. I've decided to leave 2.5 inches of extra space in the middle in case I would like to add moonlights in the future. I may split the central reflector into two which would give me a longer throw into the tank and less wasted light. The original calculations were with no gap. Link to comment
R_MC Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 Found this to be super useful - all sorts of different mount types and dimensions: Link to comment
evilc66 Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 Now you just need to put all the pucks on a servo controlled pan/tilt platform so you can emulate the angle of the sun as it rises and sets Link to comment
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