Narrow Reflector for the NanoBox V3 array?

[R_MC]

Thanks Mc!

 

Back to the mounts for the LED's. If I was going crazy with this I would consider using these motorized Pan/Tilt robotic parts and would programatically focus the lights across the tank throughout the day.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DOF-Pan-and-Tilt-2-MG995-Servos-Sensor-Mount-Kit-For-Robot-Arduino-/111459941046?hash=item19f387bab6:g:DwQAAOSwQItUEVIc

 

But... I am not going that crazy with this project.

[Halo_003]

I wouldn't recommend drilling through the heatsink, I'm not sure the heatpipes on it are solid or not.

 

Could you use the Lumia optic/lens for the V3 arrays? http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/lumia-optic-lens/

[R_MC]

Hi Halo, I wouldn't be drilling - I'd use some type of permanent bonding adhesive like Arctic Alumina to mount the bracket.

 

Reason I'd avoid the Lumia optic is that the lens will cause major separation of color / disco effect. A larger reflector with the diffuser closer to the optic will blend the different LED colors more seamlessly. Additionally I have some concerns about the hot-spots caused by these types of optics (small reflector + plastic lens) and its effect on both the coral and my eyes. With the Blue/UV leds we're using it doesn't take significantly long exposure to do some real damage to the eye.

 

 

Ok Decision time for LED mount:

While all these options look awesome, they are mostly unaffordable, tacking on an additional $20-60 per LED array (x6). Unless something world changing comes up I'll be mounting the LEDs using a 1/4"-20 1/4"-20 ball tripod head. They are available for $3 a piece on ebay and will allow the light to be easily repointed without additional tooling. The 1/4" thread is extremely common so it will be easy to find hardware to mount the ballhead to the heatsink as well as the frame of the light fixture.

 

$3 * 6

 

 

To attach the tripod head to the frame I'll drill a 1/4 hole through the tubing and mount using a 1/4"-20 bolt

$5 for 10

 

To attach to the heatsink I will affix an L bracket using a permanent bonding adhesive (maybe arctic alumina as keeps its hold after heating/cooling). Ideally this will be threaded for 1/4" but if I cannot find one I'll just use a 1/4" nut and washer with a 1/4" hole L bracket.

$2

 

Total cost for 6 complete assemblies = <$30

 

 

PS: I'm going on vacation to Culebra for a week (starting tonight) so there will be no progress on this light until I get back.

[Benny314]

Hi R_MC,

I had also some thoughts on heatsinks.

Can see them on: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/362045-diy-led-with-multiple-v3-arrays/#entry5046835

 

You can also google for "pin fin heatsink" or "cold forged heatsink" to get some interesting inspirations...

 

Have fun

Gerd

 

Funny you should mention pin heat sinks, I found some for a bargain on Ebay when I was building my arrays, they're supper efficient, I could probably get away fanless on my setup and each array is some 90W.

 

I'm loving the tilt throughout the day thought, that would be cool, what are your plans for controlling the LEDs? You can fake it by having the LEDs get brighter left to right and then fade out the same way.

[R_MC]

Hi benny, I'll have 8 LDD drivers / 2 array strings. Front 3 and back 3. Reason for this is that during the evening I would like to have the rear LEDs dimmed to minimize reflections while viewing the tank from the top down. I'll probably have the rear LEDs turn on earlier in the day as well - this will simulate a rear to front sunrise sunset.

[R_MC]

Will update with pics, but I've done some initial testing and it seems like it will work. Running each V3 at ~30W kept the base plate cool enough to touch (hot, but cool enough to touch). Scientific assessment of thermal management I know....I have an IR thermometer that I'll use soon for some more accurate results.

 

Without the diffuser, the optics do still cause some slightly strange color mixing. No major color changes but some color gradient across the projected cone. Arrow could not supply the diffuser in small quantities and I am still looking for a source. I will still get a small amount of spill using the reflectors I purchased, and might recommend the tighter version if efficiency is your main aim. I am still working out the best method of mounting the LEDs to the tripod head.

 

The most noticeable effect of the reflectors is a much larger light source than an unreflected LED. This reduces ripple/sparkle lines pretty significantly, and with an array will give something closer to T5. To me this was a bit of a disappointment as I really enjoy the sparkle that point source LEDs create, but I am confident that the growth patterns will be much more satisfactory than standard LED fixtures.

[R_MC]

 

 

Test unit. Overall I like the v3s light, however I do find it a bit sterile without the artificial richness provided by warmer whites and more diverse violets. This is personal preference, but I would likely replace one of the limes with a third violet band and perhaps swap a 400k with a warm white. Again, personal preference - this is a nice array with solid respectable density at a fair price.

[gus6464]

 

 

Test unit. Overall I like the v3s light, however I do find it a bit sterile without the artificial richness provided by warmer whites and more diverse violets. This is personal preference, but I would likely replace one of the limes with a third violet band and perhaps swap a 400k with a warm white. Again, personal preference - this is a nice array with solid respectable density at a fair price.

 

The V3 array has 2x 2700K and 1x 4000K.

[R_MC]

Looks lkike 3x 4k to me. I inspected each white led and could not tell them apart. That last image is titled very warm due to the blue led. I've compared the whites to other 4k Phillips I have and they look identical. In speaking with Dave, he said:

 

" I run a ~3300-3900K warm white and then a neutral that is ~4000-4500K depending on the run/bin.

 

If you check this datasheet out here and scroll to page five to see the small difference between the two.

http://www.lumileds.com/uploads/382/DS106-pdf"

 

Those are pretty broad bins and its possible that the lads on my array fall in the 3900k/4000k range. Either way, there is no warm white.

[DaveFason]

I do not think a extra violet spectrum will do what you are wanting. Violet goes unnoticed in most builds/DIY/arrays and I think more and more people are moving away with putting a ton in there. After talking with Ben and bouncing ideas off each other I think you would enjoy a PC Amber. This color blends extremely well just like the lime with other colors. You could replace a lime with one of these. If you are crafty with a skillet you can swap these out. Or use a air gun.

 

The hardest part about getting "good" binned LEDs is getting them consistently. I have found the current ratio pretty much spot of for 99% of people and I can consistently get the warm and neutral in ~85CRI.

 

I over obsess over projects too and found a few good diffusers in the past. These guys were also willing to send me samples well before I had anything really running. They had the best stuff in my opinion and had TONS of products. I have been playing with some of these again. The stuff is very easy to laser as well.

http://www.luminitco.com/

 

Hope this helps.

-D

[R_MC]

Hey Dave, thanks for the feedback! The reason I dig violet is exactly that - they are not too noticeable when all lights are on, do not contribute strongly to perceived kelvin, but to add significantly to the pur. Imo tthey make it a little easier to balance the blues with whites and when combined with warm white give a vibrant saturated look. It's not a very "natural" light/aesthetic, but it does seem to stroongly highlight greens and reds (through the ww) in coral without too much of a blue cast. Your light is much closer to the metal halide look, which is sure to please 99% of users as you say .

 

I've used pc amber in the past and found it hard to balance - it does not empart much red color but seems to lower Kelvin by introducing more yellow. The amber seems to have less far red than the lime oddly enough. What has your experience been?

 

Also love those lsd - if the stock diffusers don't work out I will definitely give them a ring. Have your tried them out over your arrayy? Any reason aside from efficiency loss that you would avoid them?

[DaveFason]

I used them in the past for some time. People want max shimmer which those decreased so I ditched them.

 

PC amber for me just adds some warmth and a different color that makes some corals pop in different ways. Only playing around with it.

[R_MC]

All that said Dave, I really think your array is the best prefabbed solution on the market. Really excited for you that you get to do what you love and see so many people enjoy it along the way.

 

 

In other notes... OCD AWAY! The tripod mount just didn't feel right so I started thinking again and will be going with satelite speaker mounts to support the array. They will be easier to attach to whatever frame I choose and have an aesthetic that will make this look a LITTLE less mad sciencey. There are plenty of options, but I will be shooting for minimalist / tilt + swivel / <$4 per.

 

One example from monoprice:

 

Another Style:

 

And two other styles:

 

I'll figure out the final style once I have a good template laid out for the laser cut lens holders. The Vero 29 holders did not fit over the array (measure twice, order once I suppose).

[jedimasterben]

Hey Dave, thanks for the feedback! The reason I dig violet is exactly that - they are not too noticeable when all lights are on, do not contribute strongly to perceived kelvin, but to add significantly to the pur.

The only problem is that it is really easy to overdo. Too much light can actually reduce overall growth potential by forcing corals to convert the excess light into heat instead of being able to use it for photosynthesis.

 

When you have a mostly violet and blue based array for getting PAR up, it doesn't much allow for a very visually bright tank since our eyes do so poorly below ~470nm. I've made arrays like that before, and keeping the violets up high for the main PAR punch left me with a more dimly lit tank than I'd prefer, which is why in my current array I'm using around half the violet that previous arrays did.

[R_MC]

This is what I love about LEDs, like T5 combinations there's so many different options, aesthetics, and results. Some like bright white tanks, some like dim vibrant tanks, some like blue tanks, some like pink tanks - There's an LED combo for everyone.

[R_MC]

To mount the heatsink to the speaker I may use 2 Center hole shims with rubber or silicone placed on one side in order to pinch/hold the vertical section of heat tube:

 

http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302678050/?Inch=0

The size can be customized through this site. Other companies may define this as a washer. ($59 for 12 of the right size... Too expensive)

 

People are crazy... in searching ebay there are 2 inch axle shims (aluminum... actually weaker than what's specified above) at $30-40 for a pair. Looks like I have a new business .

 

For 1/10 the price I can get 12 shims here and drill the center hole myself:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Adapter-Shims-050-Thick-x-75-Wide-x-1-5-Long-Metal-Square-12-Pcs-/252169772288?hash=item3ab67d5d00:g:RbQAAOSwLzdWRhns

 

[Matteo]

Learning tons from you guys! Also can't wait to see this build take place.

[R_MC]

Updated design based on most recent sourced parts. The orange plates will be laser cut based on the sketchup model. The center box and metal frame will be manufactured locally (not by me). I am currently looking for a local manufacturer for the box and frame.

 

Here's V3 using the ball/socket style mounts:

[R_MC]

And V4 which has a wider stance and would use mounts like:

(~$5 per)

or

 

And the Mock ups - so far I think this is winning by a small margin.

 

 

 

 

 

My only concern with the wider stance is a shallower incidence angle which would yield worse efficiency for all units - and a the offset of the rear lights would cause worse reflections when viewing from the top down. Again, I would aim for a sunrise starting in the back of the tank, and a sunset ending in the front of the tank to minimize this effect.

[R_MC]

Did some quick math on power requirements and...this may get more expensive. I was hoping to use the O2Surplus board and one Bluefish Mini. Problem is that I'll need at least 8 LDD drivers to control all the LEDs. I also had it in my head that the bluefish mini had 8 output channels - nope... 6.

 

Here's my current plan. Front 3x units will be supplied by 4x LDD's and 4 channels from the Bluefish mini. Rear 3x will be supplied by 4x LDD's and 2 channels from the LDD (blue+cyan+RB and violet + white). If I'm feeling flush I'll get 2 blufish and do 4 + 4. Any other configuration would prevent me from turning off / dimming the rear array.

 

V3 Array Specs

 

CH1 (2x Luxeon T 2700K warm white, 1x Luxeon T 4000K neutral white, 2x Rebel ES lime)

• 14v @ 700mA (9.8 watts) * 3 = 42V 29.4W
• 14.3v @ 1A (14.3 watts) *3 = 42.9V 42.9W

CH2 (4x Luxeon T royal blue)

• 11.2v @ 700mA (7.8 watts) * 3 = 33.6V 23.4W
• 11.5v @ 1A (11.5 watts) *3 = 34.5V 34.5W

CH3 (2x SemiLEDs C35 violet)

• 7.2v @ 700mA (5 watts) *3 = 21.6V 15W

CH4 (1x Rebel blue, 1x Rebel cyan)

• 6.2v @ 700mA (4.3 watts) = 18.6V 12.9W
• 6.4v @ 1A (6.4 watts) = 19.2V 19.2W

 

Power Supply requirements:

 

Low End (all at 700ma)

2*(29.4+23.4+15+12.9) = 160W

 

High end (3 at 1000ma)

2*(42.9+34.5+15+19.2) = 223W

 

 

That leaves me with the following parts list:

-0-3x LDD 1000H (Front blue + white / Rear blue)

-5-8x LDD 700H

-Bluefish Mini

-Breakout Cable

-2x 4-up LDD boards (I have one from RapidLED and like it)

-48V power supply capable of delivering a minimum of 250W (prioritizing 85% efficiency or higher)

 

I ordered the "MEAN WELL NES-350-48 350W 48V 7.3A Single Output Switching Power Supply" for $60 shipped. UL certified. 87.5% efficiency.

[gus6464]

Or just get 2x O2 bluefish mini boards and connect them together with cat5 which is how they are designed.

[Halo_003]

Or just get 2x O2 bluefish mini boards and connect them together with cat5 which is how they are designed.

Would that actually get around the BF Mini's 6 channel limit though?

[jedimasterben]

No, it still controls the lights in six channels.

-48V power supply capable of delivering a minimum of 250W (prioritizing 85% efficiency or higher)

 

I ordered the "MEAN WELL NES-350-48 350W 48V 7.3A Single Output Switching Power Supply" for $60 shipped. UL certified. 87.5% efficiency.

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mean-well-hlg240h48a.html?p=37809850&utm_source=octopart&utm_medium=inventoryrefferal&utm_campaign=octopart&ref=OctopartFeed

[R_MC]

Damn... that power supply looks a lot nicer - I'm going to see if I can exchange the order.

[gus6464]

If you get the hlg240h non a you can dunk it in water problem.

 

Also nanobox is max 4 channels? Why do you need 8 or even 6?