Narrow Reflector for the NanoBox V3 array?

[R_MC]

Hey Gus, I would like independent control of the front and rear LEDs - Two reasons here. First I would like to create a sunrise / sunset effect starting in the back and ending in the front. Second, because this is a top down tank, and because LED retinal surgery really kills the mood, I'd like to be able to turn off the rear LEDs. This will allow me to view the tank lit without obnoxious reflections off of the water surface. Finally, to create a more dramatic sense of depth I'll use darker colors in the rear of the tank (slightly more blue) and brighter colors in the front (slightly more white).

[Matteo]

Hey Gus, I would like independent control of the front and rear LEDs - Two reasons here. First I would like to create a sunrise / sunset effect starting in the back and ending in the front. Second, because this is a top down tank, and because LED retinal surgery really kills the mood, I'd like to be able to turn off the rear LEDs. This will allow me to view the tank lit without obnoxious reflections off of the water surface. Finally, to create a more dramatic sense of depth I'll use darker colors in the rear of the tank (slightly more blue) and brighter colors in the front (slightly more white).

pretty genius on the dramatic sense of depth. Never thought that way. I know Wifi control is super cool and all but maybe a Storm X? It has 16 channels. It is easy to use and program, not fancy light Wifi but it would be nice to have everything all in one.

[gus6464]

Well another option is using the pucks is 2ch mode. I don't get the obsession with having a million channels. The nanobox color blend is perfect with 2ch.

 

Another option is getting a full bluefish which is 6ch.

 

And option 3 is going with the apex O2 board if you have one. You can add a VDM and have 8 channels going up to infinity by just adding more VDM.

 

I switched from bluefish mini to apex control for my ATI/Nanobox and it works just as good.

[Matteo]

2ch color blend for the rear is a good idea. Considering you want to make it darker and have the ability to turn it off. Then the front arrays would be 4ch. That's perfect.

[R_MC]

I currently have a reef angel - though it feels a bit outdated it has been a great aquarium controller. The RA offers a 6CH PWM breakout for $120 that would give a total of 8... however, it's cumbersome and if I had to I would not be able to easily resell the light. To keep this self contained and up to date I am pretty much set on using the 2x 4x LDD boards + 1x bluefish mini and splitting it up just as you say Matteo.

[Matteo]

I currently have a reef angel - though it feels a bit outdated it has been a great aquarium controller. The RA offers a 6CH PWM breakout for $120 that would give a total of 8... however, it's cumbersome and if I had to I would not be able to easily resell the light. To keep this self contained and up to date I am pretty much set on using the 2x 4x LDD boards + 1x bluefish mini and splitting it up just as you say Matteo.

I was debating the same because I also have a reef angel but the concern was reselling. Also bluefish is cheaper! Also the 2ch dimmable in the back was gus' idea! I just think it's the best plan:)

[jedimasterben]

and if I had to I would not be able to easily resell the light.

IMHO this is the case no matter what since this light is custom built to your specs over your tank. It's always difficult to sell DIY setups, and ones as custom as this are doubly so.

[Matteo]

IMHO this is the case no matter what since this light is custom built to your specs over your tank. It's always difficult to sell DIY setups, and ones as custom as this are doubly so.

+19028437238974623 DIY have no resale value

[R_MC]

I ended up with the HLG-240H-48A power supply. Thanks for the tip.

[Matteo]

I ended up with the HLG-240H-48A power supply. Thanks for the tip.

Any updates?

[R_MC]

Progress is slow but I am moving forward

 

I've sent off a laser cut request. I'll use 1/4" MDF with a white veneer - the 6 objects on the left are shown in the rendering as red mounts just below each LED array. The heatsink will screw onto this mount, and the mount will provide support for the reflector. Wiring will be routed on the top side through the small opening on the side of the central circle.

 

On the right you can see an artifact of another project - hydroponic hops I'm growing this year on our balcony.

 

I'm using Ponoko.com for Laser cutting.

 

[Matteo]

Cool cool. Too bad you aren't close, a friend of mine had a laser cutter, 3D printer and all the goodies. I go to him for many of DIY projects. Did you decide with Bluefish or ReefAngel? If you go ReefAngel you can still control via WiFi Module. That will be my next gear purchase.

[R_MC]

I have the wifi module - really like it. Still on the fence but leaning Bluefish as the interface is much more modern and it will give me something new to play with. The reef angel is great, but I find the UI a little frustrating and the PWM is a lower frequency than I'd like. I think the blue-fish may yield a more flicker free output at lower dimming settings.

 

I'm using ponoko this time as it's pretty hassle free, but in the future I'll try to find someone local. First print I put in was estimated at $90 - I removed a few design elements and got the price down to $60 but ugh... After shipping and some surcharges it ended up being $84.

[Matteo]

Glad to hear you like the wifi module. Definitely going to get it. I do like the Bluefish interface it's pretty good. A little on the slow side. Personally I think the best control interface I have seen is AI's. They're app is quick and has smooth dimming. Finding someone local will build a good relationship for future products and usually better on the wallet. Here is who I use. Joatlabs.com

[R_MC]

Second guessing- BLARG!!!

Theatrus on RC has developed this 16 up PCB which is quite interesting:

 

The good: Higher density / arrangement = better fit with the reflectors

The bad: The polarized White / blue would cause more pronounced color separation

 

To address the Bad - I'd interweave the LEDs yielding much less distinct color channels as identified below. The new bad is that there would be LESS control over the colors - however... I never really want 100% blue and likewise never want 100% white. For me, avoiding color separation is more critical than exact color control.

 

I've spoken with Theatrus and would try:

• 3x Royal Blue + 1 Warm White + 1 420nm Violet ( RB V RB WW RB)
• 2x Blue, 2x RB (B RB B RB )
• 1x Neutral White + 1X Royal Blue + 1x Cyan + 1X Lime ( NW C RB Lime)
• 1x Royal blue 1x Cyan + 1x 425 Violet (V RB C)

 

Clockwise this would be:

 

V1: (RB V RB WW RB) + (B RB B RB) + (NW C RB L) + (V RB C) - color mixing is the main focus

 

ALT 1: (WW RB RB RB RB) + (NW C RB L) + (RB V RB V) + (B C B )- Blue channel polarized - accents polarized

 

ALT 2: (RB V RB V RB) + (C B B C) + (WW RB RB NW) + (RB RB L) - Most color banding - most color control

 

Ratio = (7 RB, 2B, 2 cyan, 2uv) (1ww, 1nw, 1lime)

 

Equivalent of very roughly - 9VRB : 4BG : 4W

 

 

Ideally I will be able to run this array at close to 100% on for all channels - unlike most rigs which force you to turn the white channel down to get to 14k or above.

[Matteo]

hmmmmm these seem pretty neat. I like that you can order with these with a reflector and the fact the colors are all separate is concerning but the diffuser looks like it helps. My other concern is no UV/violet spectrum is offered. Well it says coming soon...so when is soon? Also I just love the V3s too much so I am bias because I have 4 of them with 2 T5s and love it! But these would be pretty sweet hung high with the reflectors like you want to do. I might try one of these out on a nano.

[gus6464]

Second guessing- BLARG!!!

 

Theatrus on RC has developed this 16 up PCB which is quite interesting:

 

The good: Higher density / arrangement = better fit with the reflectors

The bad: The polarized White / blue would cause more pronounced color separation

 

 

It looks like you can drop a Ledil Brooke-W with ease on that puck. If you can then there will be no visible color separation.

[Matteo]

only other concern is cleaness on wiring. These have the pos on one side and the neg on the other which maybe harder to hide unlike the V3 where all the wires are at one access point.

[R_MC]

Agreed on the wiring... esp since my laser cut order is already placed. I think I can work with it though.

Any suggestions on how to tweak this ratio: (7 RB, 2B, 2 cyan, 2v) (1ww, 1nw, 1lime)

 

My hesitation lies in the Blue/Cyan ratio. I've never used them 1-1. Would 8RB, 2b, 1 Cyan make more sense? 7RB, 3B, 2 Cyan seems tipped too far towards cool blue. That said, I really like cyan to fill the gap on lower CRI whites (these whites will not be ultra high CRI).

[Matteo]

do you like a light blue (windex) look? I am not a fan of overpowering of the cyan/blue. On my V3's they are only at 15% so I would be leaning towards the 8rb, 2b, 1 cyan but that is my preference. With just 4 V3s with a 1-1 ratio all on a 700ldd when turned up they are very very noticeable. so any more than 2 of each is unnecessary I think.

[R_MC]

Ok, I think the preferred array will be:

(RB RB WW RB RB) + (RB V425 RB V420) + (NW C RB L) + (B RB B )

2x V, 8x RB, 2xB, 1xC, 1x L, 1x NW, 1xWW

Generally I use cyan only to compensate for the gap in phosphor converted white, so I think I'll be find with that on the "white" channel. For morning and evening I think the 4-9 Heavy Blue + 1x ww will work out for sunrise and sunset.

[Matteo]

I like it! Nice touch on the font color coding. Do you think you will have enough white however?

[DaveFason]

Agreed on the wiring... esp since my laser cut order is already placed. I think I can work with it though.

 

Any suggestions on how to tweak this ratio: (7 RB, 2B, 2 cyan, 2v) (1ww, 1nw, 1lime)

 

My hesitation lies in the Blue/Cyan ratio. I've never used them 1-1. Would 8RB, 2b, 1 Cyan make more sense? 7RB, 3B, 2 Cyan seems tipped too far towards cool blue. That said, I really like cyan to fill the gap on lower CRI whites (these whites will not be ultra high CRI).

He has some cool stuff.

The Lux Z line is great for things like this but not as efficient, can/needs more cooling and the violets/UV are insanely expensive. Evil and I played around with these ~ two years ago but just could not nail down anything.

 

I like how he has the reflector ready for it and looks like a diffuser only option too.

 

The only headache I can see for you is the MASSIVE amount of wiring you will need to do along with beast power supply needed ( if only running one ).

 

Do not take this the wrong way but it seems like you like the look of LEDs at blue spectrum but really enjoy a diffused light. Why not run a simple Sunpower with only two bulbs and then pack it full of pucks ( this guys or mine )? The unit will look cleaner, way easier to wire and nail what seems to be what you are looking for. Again dont take the wrong way! I am just tossing it out there as I have built a ton of custom units for people now.

 

-Dave

[gus6464]

Drop a cool blue and replace with a second neutral white.

[R_MC]

He has some cool stuff.

The Lux Z line is great for things like this but not as efficient, can/needs more cooling and the violets/UV are insanely expensive. Evil and I played around with these ~ two years ago but just could not nail down anything.

 

I like how he has the reflector ready for it and looks like a diffuser only option too.

 

The only headache I can see for you is the MASSIVE amount of wiring you will need to do along with beast power supply needed ( if only running one ).

 

Do not take this the wrong way but it seems like you like the look of LEDs at blue spectrum but really enjoy a diffused light. Why not run a simple Sunpower with only two bulbs and then pack it full of pucks ( this guys or mine )? The unit will look cleaner, way easier to wire and nail what seems to be what you are looking for. Again dont take the wrong way! I am just tossing it out there as I have built a ton of custom units for people now.

 

-Dave

 

Hi Dave - one of my main design goals is to have the unit mounted ~3' above the tank. To get decent light coverage that means I need the LED's wide on the sides and to project the T5 without a lot of spill I need one deep central trough. There isn't a retrofit that will fit the bill.

 

If I run 6 pucks of 16 Z's @ 700ma I'm looking at roughly 200W. Power is not an issue. Additionally my heatsink is over engineered so the slightly lower efficiency is not an issue.

 

I can easily tune the color of light during prime viewing by adding a white tube to the 2x T5ho fixture. Bluer is preferable to me as the LEDs will be filling in the tank from the side. Darker / bluer light from the side and diffused whiter light from the top will give the tank more depth. Typically I'd prefer more white, but in this situation I think I'd like more blues in the LED for PAR.