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CoralVue T5/LED fixtures, $100


farkwar

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I think a 24v 4.5A+ power supply combined with Dimitri's 7 channel controller and 7 up 1.0 drivers might be the best combination for running three of Dave's boards and a moonlight channel into this fixture. Just set all the drivers to 700mA output.

 

No need for complicated voltage steppers or separate power supply for the controller along with minimum alteration to the body of the fixture.

 

I wonder if the diffuser reefll sells would fit over Dave's boards. Mostly to maximize the lights blending but also because the default optics double as spacers and something well be needed to keep that gap present.

 

If this sounds wrong someone feel free to correct me. :) very tired as I Swype this.

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I think a 24v 4.5A+ power supply combined with Dimitri's 7 channel controller and 7 up 1.0 drivers might be the best combination for running three of Dave's boards and a moonlight channel into this fixture. Just set all the drivers to 700mA output.

 

No need for complicated voltage steppers or separate power supply for the controller along with minimum alteration to the body of the fixture.

 

I wonder if the diffuser reefll sells would fit over Dave's boards. Mostly to maximize the lights blending but also because the default optics double as spacers and something well be needed to keep that gap present.

 

If this sounds wrong someone feel free to correct me. :) very tired as I Swype this.

 

So did a quick search and didn't see what Dimitri's controller is all about. Any references?

 

Got the 6 bulb 24" fixture coming in soon (supposedly today).

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I cannot source a small psu to save my life for some reason. I also suck at sourcing heatsinks so someone else can do that.

 

Currently weighing the cost differentials between the coralux storm and the ReefLL 7CH wireless controller + accessories.

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I meant physically smaller. The hlg and clg family are a little large for this application if you want to keep all the components inside the fixture.

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how many boards are you wanting to retro anyways?

 

2 on a 24" and 4 on a 36"

 

the 24" being more important so probably do that one first.

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Honestly, ive been thinking,, do you really need multichannel pucks for retro on these?

 

All youre really looking for is LED sparkle and shimmer. Any color channel changes are going to be blown out by the T5s.

 

You can change color by changing tubes.

 

Maybe something simpler is required. Like a row of K multis? RB8, W4, RB8, W4, RB8, W4, RB8, W4. 3 drivers, no controller really needed. Pretty safe and inexpensive upgrade.

 

If you want full spectrum, put a 6000K T5 in one of the slots, that will whiten it up a lot.

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2 on a 24" and 4 on a 36"

 

the 24" being more important so probably do that one first.

Ok that's easy where driver and controller config are concerned. Still need to find a power supply and heatsink to list but i got ideas for the drivers and controller

 

For 2 boards on a 24" fixture you'd be looking at the following:

 

Storm controller path:

Storm Controller: $65.43

Storm Case: $9.99

Breakout Cable: $4.95

2up driver board: $5.99

Dip Socket (x2): $0.41 Each

LDD-700H (x2): $6.99 Each

 

Total: $101.16

Sold By: http://coralux.net/

 

ReefLL 7 channel controller path

ReefLL 7 Channel Controller: $74

Ribbon Cable (1 Meter): $1

Mounting Tape (1 sheet): $5

ReefLL 2up Driver V1.2: $16

 

Total: $96

Sold By: http://reefll.com/

 

This doesn't tank the mounting of the Coralux driver boards into account nor does it take time nessesary to make any cables for the controllers and drivers or soldering time into account. There is also a possibility that certain connectors for either unit aren't involved either.

 

For 4 Boards the following changes would be made

 

Storm Path:

Swap 2up board for 4up board: +$4

Add two LDD-700H: +$6.99 Each

 

Total Cost: $118.32

 

ReefLL Path:

Add 2up V1.2 Driver assembly +$16

 

Total Cost $112

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Honestly, ive been thinking,, do you really need multichannel pucks for retro on these?

 

All youre really looking for is LED sparkle and shimmer. Any color channel changes are going to be blown out by the T5s.

 

You can change color by changing tubes.

 

Maybe something simpler is required. Like a row of K multis? RB8, W4, RB8, W4, RB8, W4, RB8, W4. 3 drivers, no controller really needed. Pretty safe and inexpensive upgrade.

 

If you want full spectrum, put a 6000K T5 in one of the slots, that will whiten it up a lot.

by that logic I should just leave the current strip of leds in there. and i probably will. for a while at least. i was planning on using this fixture when my fiance finally gets her seahorse tank up and running but she didn't want it after she found of the reflectors were blue because they were covered with blue plastic so it'll probably be a grow tank fixture for the selling of frags and such.

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Im not really impressed with 7 1watters.

 

I have the Hamilton over a 40B. 6 tubes were too bright, stuff was starting to whiten on me. But that was with stock tubes.

 

Ive ordered ATI replacements, should be here tomorrow.

 

Ive got 2 Coralvue 4x39s and one 8x39 coming. I have a suspicion im going to cook a tank into coral gumbo with the 8x.

 

So, my impression, is that these have intensity and diffused coverage. Which leaves shimmer as the only thing left.

 

Ill make my final opinion after I get the ATIs, they are all dark tubes, so I need to see what the coral say. This is my first experience wit T5, so Im still learning.

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I think I just need control on 2 channels for the LEDs... blues + whites/other crap and I would like moonlights. I don't need "clouds, storms, ect" but would like to be able to dim it.

 

I currently have a nano-box and a ATI t5 over my tank (hanging next to each other) and I would agree... t5's make will just washout LED's so no need to control all the channels separate or anything.

 

My plan is to put some nano-box on it and then run maybe 2-4 bulbs as supplement.

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I think you take the blue plastic off.

 

Just a protective sheet, you dont leave it on. I would hope it peels right off.

 

Germans dont make, 99.9999% reflective material and put opaque blue plastic on it. Its not in their genes.

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What if I just wanted to (for example) run 3ups instead of the single LEDs? How hard would that be to pull off? Perhaps with like each 3up holding a 2x RB and a lime. Or perhaps OCW, so 1 each (470nm 495nm 660nm).

 

Edit: Actually what about using Luxeon M with 4x 3W RB per board? Still using 7 total for my 36" fixture.

 


Edit 2: So I should try to get the blue off the reflectors?

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The blue coating did indeed just peel off. Just thin plastic sheet. I'm just leeching mine in because I'm not setting up the light yet.

 

I can think of a single aesthetic reason for using lots of extra channels for multiple nanobox pucks. Getting that left to right on off dimming you see with the vertex illumina fixture.

 

Which would totally be the reason i would retro in a 7up V1.0 driver assembly with the 7 channel controller to run three of Dave's boards in my light. The extra driver can be a moonlight. get some of dnks diffusers on it and then I'd be set.

 

Still need to figure out if the diffuser fits nanobox pucks though. >.>"

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The blue coating did indeed just peel off. Just thin plastic sheet. I'm just leeching mine in because I'm not setting up the light yet.

 

I can think of a single aesthetic reason for using lots of extra channels for multiple nanobox pucks. Getting that left to right on off dimming you see with the vertex illumina fixture.

 

Which would totally be the reason i would retro in a 7up V1.0 driver assembly with the 7 channel controller to run three of Dave's boards in my light. The extra driver can be a moonlight. get some of dnks diffusers on it and then I'd be set.

 

Still need to figure out if the diffuser fits nanobox pucks though. >.>"

 

 

That would be sweet. It could also make for sweet cloud effects and sunrise/position etc. Though I am also curious about using the Borealis Z pucks.

 

I'm setting up my light next week when I get bulbs. :)

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jedimasterben

I cannot source a small psu to save my life for some reason.

Mouser, Powergate, BravoElectro, OnlineComponents, jameco, TRC, etc. HLG are all I recommend still, they're made in 40w, 60w, 80w, 100w, 120w, 150w, 185w, 240w, and 320w.

 

I also suck at sourcing heatsinks so someone else can do that.

heatsinkusa.com

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Mine just came in.

 

Built like a tank, steel housing. The Fiji Suns are aluminum. Need robust hanging hardware.

 

Same ballasts as Fiji Suns.

 

Take the blue plastic off the reflectors, thats was silly

 

Love the power solution. Easy to run power from power supply into switchbox, then up the cable to light; for the HLG. Its not fitting inside.

 

Fans are inadequate, especially if you put any LED pucks in there. Not much venting either, may need to retro those in somehow.

 

The sockets for the tubes leave much to be desired, though. Look real cheap and flimsy.

 

H, you can buy sheets of the diffuser from Evonik USA directly.Buy a few sheets if you do, they box it up with custom wood framed boxes. The shipping charge is more than the sheet. German overengineering.

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