Hexadron's Nitoralis [Retired]

[Spirofucci]

I really like the Red Sea Pro for Ca and Mg. BRS has vids on a lot of these test kits, check em out!

[Hexadron]

Well after some reading it seems there is bashing on all test kits no matter what. I plan on getting the Seneye to monitor most of my parameters once they release their base unit and add-on for other Parameters N02, NO3, KH, GH and CL. That was I can just test for the Cal, Alk and Phosphates.

 

I would still like to have some test kits on hand for various testing here and there though/emergencies etc..

 

So a lot of haters for API and Salifert overall TBH. When I was chosing my original test kits, Elos was well regarded, but I heard there were some quality issues with Red Sea, which is why I went with Elos.

 

I see lots of people using Red Sea as well though. Ugh too many choices!

 

Jordon, what don't you like about the Elos kits? Those are the kits I was planning on transferring to after my API kits run out, so interested in hearing your thoughts.

Well I wasn't pleased with my Elos Ammonia kit considering it was giving me false readings, and wasn't expired. It was kept ina cool dry, dark place at all times as well. Oh and one of my vials broke in one of the kits as well, while the API is a little more "rugged" The Nitrite and Nitrate have been giving me fair readings, but they are a bit of a hassel (shake this for 30 seconds 5 times, then wait 2 minutes, then add this, then shake again, then wait 5 more minutes...) The Chart for Nitrate is a bit too close in color values as well. I'm still deciding, but would advise against at least their Ammonia Kit.

I really like the Red Sea Pro for Ca and Mg. BRS has vids on a lot of these test kits, check em out!

I have seen those videos, and would love to hear your experiences compared to any other kits you may have used?

[Deckoz2302]

I use API for NH3,NO2,NO3

I use Red Sea for Alk, Mag, Ca, Potassium, Iron, Iodide

I use hanna for low range Phosphate.

 

I would like to switch to Hanna for Ca, Alk, Iron, Iodine.

 

Alk hanna seem to be a stable replacement.

Calcium is hit or miss and you must use lab grade RODI..or it sucks

Iron, no one really uses it and the resolution is not high enough. I keep 0.15ppm in my tank, Resolution on hanna is ±0.1ppm

Iodine again I would switch to hanna but resolution is not high enough. Aquaria level 0.06ppm, resolution of hanna is ±0.1ppm

 

So...I like my red sea Kits alot... if you get them I suggest buying the Red Sea Foundation Test Kit, and Red Sea Colors Test Kit

 

Also the problems you see that were reported with red sea was based on thier old test kits. The new Pro test kits are A++

 

 

[BadCrab]

Just checked out the Seneye... really impressive! I don't see anything on their webportal about upcoming hardware, tell me what you know!

 

EDIT: Also how the hell does that thing work? LOL. Looks like it takes a SIM Card...

 

EDIT2: Found this thread on Nano-Reef that explains the system in detail if anyone else is curious like I was.

[Hexadron]

I use API for NH3,NO2,NO3

I use Red Sea for Alk, Mag, Ca, Potassium, Iron, Iodide

I use hanna for low range Phosphate.

 

I would like to switch to Hanna for Ca, Alk, Iron, Iodine.

 

Alk hanna seem to be a stable replacement.

Calcium is hit or miss and you must use lab grade RODI..or it sucks

Iron, no one really uses it and the resolution is not high enough. I keep 0.15ppm in my tank, Resolution on hanna is ±0.1ppm

Iodine again I would switch to hanna but resolution is not high enough. Aquaria level 0.06ppm, resolution of hanna is ±0.1ppm

 

So...I like my red sea Kits alot... if you get them I suggest buying the Red Sea Foundation Test Kit, and Red Sea Colors Test Kit

 

Also the problems you see that were reported with red sea was based on thier old test kits. The new Pro test kits are A++

 

Nice! Thanks for your review. I think I'll check them out. Ya I love the little Hannah Checkers. I wish they came out with more though, and higher resolutions, like you said.

 

Just checked out the Seneye... really impressive! I don't see anything on their webportal about upcoming hardware, tell me what you know!

 

EDIT: Also how the hell does that thing work? LOL. Looks like it takes a SIM Card...

 

EDIT2: Found http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/287754-seneye-reef-aquarium-monitor/'>this thread on Nano-Reef that explains the system in detail if anyone else is curious like I was.

 

Well I don't have any insider info, but if you check this page out: http://www.seneye.com/coming-soon

 

It will tell you some of the things on their way. From what I read in multip,e reviews is that the parameters are very reliable. Keep in mind there is the $10 per month "subscription" but what I truly love is the text and email alerts if let's say ammonia was rising etc..

 

I emailed them about a week ago with an ETA on the new Params and wifi base station, and they said they are beginning beta testing, so realistically, I'm hoping by year end. The sooner the better!

 

If I only have to manually test a few Params, and still get to know ammonia, nitrite, ph, nitrate and more by launching my browser or from my iPhone, or across the country then that to me is worth $10 per month, besides how much do you spend on all those test kits to test individually anyways, plus valuable time.

[Deckoz2302]

Nice! Thanks for your review. I think I'll check them out. Ya I love the little Hannah Checkers. I wish they came out with more though, and higher resolutions, like you said.

 

 

 

Well I don't have any insider info, but if you check this page out: http://www.seneye.com/coming-soon'>http://www.seneye.com/coming-soon

 

It will tell you some of the things on their way. From what I read in multip,e reviews is that the parameters are very reliable. Keep in mind there is the $10 per month "subscription" but what I truly love is the text and email alerts if let's say ammonia was rising etc..

 

I emailed them about a week ago with an ETA on the new Params and wifi base station, and they said they are beginning beta testing, so realistically, I'm hoping by year end. The sooner the better!

 

If I only have to manually test a few Params, and still get to know ammonia, nitrite, ph, nitrate and more by launching my browser or from my iPhone, or across the country then that to me is worth $10 per month, besides how much do you spend on all those test kits to test individually anyways, plus valuable time.

 

Just fyi there are no stable hobby grade nitrate probes made flr continuous use. Continuous use nitrate probs range in the $4000-9000 range. Unless this is new tech. Otherwise I woulda had a continuous mag/alk/ca/potassium/nitrate probe long ago lol

 

However ammonia and nitrite are cheap

[BadCrab]

Yeah after looking over the Coming Soon page Jordon, it looks like the added NO2, NO3, KH, GH & CL testing will be done on one-use strips and works independently of the existing Seneye system.

 

I think the Seneye is the first upgrade I'm going to get for my tank.

[Hexadron]

Just fyi there are no stable hobby grade nitrate probes made flr continuous use. Continuous use nitrate probs range in the $4000-9000 range. Unless this is new tech. Otherwise I woulda had a continuous mag/alk/ca/potassium/nitrate probe long ago lol

 

However ammonia and nitrite are cheap

 

True.although for that I'm not expecting perfect results anyways, but if it can prevent deaths or a crash (ammonia) it will be worth it for me. It seems most reefers won't be testing these things regularly until there is an issue they can see. Who knows, I'll be another Guinean pig and if its a "waste" of money than so be it.

 

Yeah after looking over the Coming Soon page Jordon, it looks like the added NO2, NO3, KH, GH & CL testing will be done on one-use strips and works independently of the existing Seneye system.

 

I think the Seneye is the first upgrade I'm going to get for my tank.

 

Well my advice is read all the reviews you can and see if its still for you. I've been following this since it was announced a few years back and I am still intrigued. I like it for the ammonia mostly as well as pH. We will have to see what these guys have up their sleeves for their additional tests. I'm quite curious myself. It must be fairly accurate, at least for the typical hobbyist. I don't particularly need lab grade equipment.

[Hexadron]

 

Woohoo! Finally. Okay well I just measured NH3, N02, and N03 this morning and to my surprise, Ammonia has dropped, and Nitrites have risen. Nitrates have stayed the same, but it's something! It's only been two days since i have added the Ammonium Chloride to the mix. So yes, I am HAPPY!

 

Here's the measurements today.

 

*It should be noted that NH3 (Ammonia) is actually 0.5, but for some reason the chart doesn't do fractions for NH3...*

 

[TristanC]

Nice, looks like its trucking along.

[Deckoz2302]

What did I say ..3 days...I bet tomorrow you will have 0 nitrites

 

Lol....thats funny...now you get to watch it go really fast. I say 3 days max before 0 NH3 & NO2....lol Btw what charts do you use??

[Hexadron]

Nice, looks like its trucking along.

Yuppers. Looking forward to this!

What did I say ..3 days...I bet tomorrow you will have 0 nitrites

I'm going to test either tomorrow or the day after. We will see I guess that's a good indication of how well the bacteria is estalished.

 

I DON'T WANT TO LIVE HERE ANYMORE...

 

[jedimasterben]

Florida may be hot as #### in the summer, but it sure as hell beats ever seeing snow.

[Mstefa1]

Looks like I missed a few updates!

 

You know, that decaying shrimp method worked out pretty well for me. If your cycle is dragging, maybe it is worth giving it a go? I left it in until it was goo and didn't smell anything nasty escaping from the water. Tank cycled in about two weeks (also used caribsea live sand). One benefit easy to overlook since we don't see them is the added diversity of bacteria introduced with the shrimp. Anyway, since my cycle was so quick, I didn't trust it completely and just started slow with a hardy coral and waited aonther week or two to get a fish.

 

Curious about this Hanna phosphate tester. It's supposed to have pretty fine resolution so we can confirm that phosphates are below the .03 range recommended for SPS, but then the precision range is +/- .04. Seems to me that makes the super-fine resolution meaningless at the precision level we need. Yet everyone on NR seems to really like them. I dunno what to make of that.

 

I'm also finding the Red Sea testkit for iodine, iron and potassium to be useful in getting trace elements dialed in. Helps with coral colors. :-)

 

I wrote a lot of info on my posts here and here which may interest you. The phosphorus checker is more accurate and has better resolution than the phosphate checker in reef applications and it's easy to convert 1 to the other. But regardless of the checker you use, you want real world reproducible results. In other words, you should be able to test the same sample and get similar results.

 

Well after some reading it seems there is bashing on all test kits no matter what. I plan on getting the Seneye to monitor most of my parameters once they release their base unit and add-on for other Parameters N02, NO3, KH, GH and CL. That was I can just test for the Cal, Alk and Phosphates.

I would still like to have some test kits on hand for various testing here and there though/emergencies etc..

So a lot of haters for API and Salifert overall TBH. When I was chosing my original test kits, Elos was well regarded, but I heard there were some quality issues with Red Sea, which is why I went with Elos.

I see lots of people using Red Sea as well though. Ugh too many choices!


Well I wasn't pleased with my Elos Ammonia kit considering it was giving me false readings, and wasn't expired. It was kept ina cool dry, dark place at all times as well. Oh and one of my vials broke in one of the kits as well, while the API is a little more "rugged" The Nitrite and Nitrate have been giving me fair readings, but they are a bit of a hassel (shake this for 30 seconds 5 times, then wait 2 minutes, then add this, then shake again, then wait 5 more minutes...) The Chart for Nitrate is a bit too close in color values as well. I'm still deciding, but would advise against at least their Ammonia Kit.

I have seen those videos, and would love to hear your experiences compared to any other kits you may have used?

 

Just like everyone has their favorite salt, everyone has their favorite test kits. Often you will see people like a specific brand for some tests, yet hate that same brand for other tests. Hanna checkers are supposed to be very nice with the exception of the Ca which most people claim they can not get consistent results testing identical samples. JDH, there are a ton of Hanna checkers out there if you look on their site. But frankly at $46 each or so it's not worth paying for.

 

I personally only ever test for Ca, Alk, & Mg. And the fact is you will most likely never test for Mg unless you have a problem such as having trouble keeping Ca & Alk at proper saturation. Most people test Mg because they are dosing Kent Tech M to combat bryopsis. Also in my tank heavily stocked, I can almost adequate maintain Ca by water changes alone but Alk is a completely different story. So often I only test for Alk and that is more like every 1-2 weeks. I have a small edge by reading my PH with my Apex I an have a snapshot that parameters may be out of balance. You never chase PH but you must understand that the stability of the before mentioned elements influences PH. So in my case, a low PH generally is caused by low Alk.

 

Here is a graph where you can see the daily rise and fall of my PH which is normally from 7.85 during the day to 7.65 at night. Yes, I always read a low PH, and yes my probe is calibrated, and yes my PH was confirmed with 2 liquid test kits. I don't chase PH, only monitor for change.

 

 

And given a good salt and consistent water changes, it will take awhile until your stocked enough to require any dosing at all. JDH, what salt are you using anyway? I started with Seachem but later switched to Red Sea Pro a long time because Seachem was very high in Ca and low in Alk, which only made problem worse.

 

What you may want to do is buy your test kits slowly because you won't need them all at once unless you have the $$$ to spend. And the reality is that you probably will never, ever again test for ammonia or nitrite in your tank, and probably not PH either. It's just a waste of time. As for nitrates, maybe if it is an SPS heavy tank or if you are having algae issues and you are looking at nutrient issues. But my API nitrate test kit is worthless on my Aquapod as it always reads 0. Perhaps it doesn't test low range very well but it does read Nitrates on my cycling PicO.

 

Bottom line is you don't want to waste your money on test kits you will never use. Like my Salifert phosphate test kit... Always reads 0 unless I test tap and it is supposed to read down to 0.03. But Salifert Ca, Alk, & Mg are titration and just flat out work well.

 

 

 

Woohoo! Finally. Okay well I just measured NH3, N02, and N03 this morning and to my surprise, Ammonia has dropped, and Nitrites have risen. Nitrates have stayed the same, but it's something! It's only been two days since i have added the Ammonium Chloride to the mix. So yes, I am HAPPY!

 

Here's the measurements today.

 

 

Very nice, looks like you are progressing well.

 

Florida may be hot as #### in the summer, but it sure as hell beats ever seeing snow.

 

I agree, but I'm stuck in PA as my wife won't move. I get both the hot ass summers and snowy winters. I'll be in FL May 10th so bring on the heat!

 

 

 

JDH, it sounds like you are a control freak. Get a controller already so you can control your tank with your smartphone. It's freaking awesome! OK, enough rambling.

[xerophyte_nyc]

My 2 pence: no need to test for ammonia or nitrite once the "cycle" has run its course. In fact, algae is as good an indicator for nitrate and phosphate as anything else. Phosphate kits are almost useless as they only measure PO4, not organic sources. Calcium and alk definitely should be measured regularly so you can figure out how they are being utilized in the tank, but even that may not be as important until the tank is well-stocked. pH is important so you can monitor fluctuations, more so than the actual numerical value.

 

I have been pleased with Salifert for all my testing.

[Mstefa1]

And why were talking about testing... I almost never test the salinity of my tank as long at my ATO is working properly but your experience may differ if your manually topping off.

 

All this talk about testing made me perform an overdo panel of tests on my old tank. Honestly it's more fun BS on here than it is to test. lol JDH, right now you may think testing is just one more chance to get personal with your tank but as life happens you will soon find it to be a chore.

[Hexadron]

Looks like I missed a few updates!

 

Just like everyone has their favorite salt, everyone has their favorite test kits. Often you will see people like a specific brand for some tests, yet hate that same brand for other tests. Hanna checkers are supposed to be very nice with the exception of the Ca which most people claim they can not get consistent results testing identical samples. JDH, there are a ton of Hanna checkers out there if you look on their site. But frankly at $46 each or so it's not worth paying for.

 

I personally only ever test for Ca, Alk, & Mg. And the fact is you will most likely never test for Mg unless you have a problem such as having trouble keeping Ca & Alk at proper saturation. Most people test Mg because they are dosing Kent Tech M to combat bryopsis. Also in my tank heavily stocked, I can almost adequate maintain Ca by water changes alone but Alk is a completely different story. So often I only test for Alk and that is more like every 1-2 weeks. I have a small edge by reading my PH with my Apex I an have a snapshot that parameters may be out of balance. You never chase PH but you must understand that the stability of the before mentioned elements influences PH. So in my case, a low PH generally is caused by low Alk.

 

Here is a graph where you can see the daily rise and fall of my PH which is normally from 7.85 during the day to 7.65 at night. Yes, I always read a low PH, and yes my probe is calibrated, and yes my PH was confirmed with 2 liquid test kits. I don't chase PH, only monitor for change.

Nice. I was actually curious on why people test for Mg, and your post answered some questions for sure. Thanks! Well given my tank volume, I am hoping i don't have to dose, but will if it needs it.

 

And given a good salt and consistent water changes, it will take awhile until your stocked enough to require any dosing at all. JDH, what salt are you using anyway? I started with Seachem but later switched to Red Sea Pro a long time because Seachem was very high in Ca and low in Alk, which only made problem worse.

 

What you may want to do is buy your test kits slowly because you won't need them all at once unless you have the $$$ to spend. And the reality is that you probably will never, ever again test for ammonia or nitrite in your tank, and probably not PH either. It's just a waste of time. As for nitrates, maybe if it is an SPS heavy tank or if you are having algae issues and you are looking at nutrient issues. But my API nitrate test kit is worthless on my Aquapod as it always reads 0. Perhaps it doesn't test low range very well but it does read Nitrates on my cycling PicO.

 

Bottom line is you don't want to waste your money on test kits you will never use. Like my Salifert phosphate test kit... Always reads 0 unless I test tap and it is supposed to read down to 0.03. But Salifert Ca, Alk, & Mg are titration and just flat out work well.

I am using Fluval SEA Pro Marine Salt. There wasn't much info on reefers using it, but the owner of my LFS uses it since it came out on all of their tanks they manage (Hotels, Malls, and all their tanks in store) Besides having the best and healthiest coral selection I have come across, he said it is great stuff. Corals reeacted very positively, and all params are in check - which is what i'm looking for.

 

We will have to see, but given that it's my first salt, i can't really compare it to anything. As long as the parameters are consistent, I think i'll be happy.

 

I know a lot of folks are very weary of Hagen and think they will come out with a sub-par products, but I have faith.

Very nice, looks like you are progressing well.

Finally! I still think your cycle may be done before mine though haha.

I agree, but I'm stuck in PA as my wife won't move. I get both the hot ass summers and snowy winters. I'll be in FL May 10th so bring on the heat!

Yes, summers here can be very hot as well. Usually not past +30°C (95°F) for hotter days. Winters very easily go as low as -40°C though which is damn cold! It's not always the cold that's the worst, but the past few years we have had so much slow. Last year was really bad as people roofs were caving in die to the immense weight of the slow.

 

This year it seems to be blizzards... Today is very bad. I went home from work early, as the roads were so bad. My stupid work is staying open when everyone else is closing for the day. So long suckers... They can fire me. i rather be alive Thank You.

JDH, it sounds like you are a control freak. Get a controller already so you can control your tank with your smartphone. It's freaking awesome! OK, enough rambling.

Haha a bit I would love to get a controller. Definitely for the future though. I think it will be amazing on a larger tank with a sump and all that. I won't have too much to control as I am trying my darndest to stick to the KISS rule. Although it's never a bad idea to have one. Like i said maybe down the road. Smartphone control is amazing!

My 2 pence: no need to test for ammonia or nitrite once the "cycle" has run its course. In fact, algae is as good an indicator for nitrate and phosphate as anything else. Phosphate kits are almost useless as they only measure PO4, not organic sources. Calcium and alk definitely should be measured regularly so you can figure out how they are being utilized in the tank, but even that may not be as important until the tank is well-stocked. pH is important so you can monitor fluctuations, more so than the actual numerical value.

 

I have been pleased with Salifert for all my testing.

Very true. I was just saying it would be nice to have if anything seemed out of whack (coral imploded etc... I think API or Salifert would both be okay to have on hand. I'll go with whats on sale TBH.

And why were talking about testing... I almost never test the salinity of my tank as long at my ATO is working properly but your experience may differ if your manually topping off.

 

All this talk about testing made me perform an overdo panel of tests on my old tank. Honestly it's more fun BS on here than it is to test. lol JDH, right now you may think testing is just one more chance to get personal with your tank but as life happens you will soon find it to be a chore.

I have been testing salinity nearly every day or two. Given the amount i top off, it always stays in check.i probably won't test as much in the future, but it's so damn easy with a refractor. It only takes about a minute, including cleaning it up afterwards.

 

Oh life does definitely happen. Well more so work than life lately. I won't be testing as much after my initial livestock has settled in

[NanoTopia]

 

Yuppers. Looking forward to this!

 

I'm going to test either tomorrow or the day after. We will see I guess that's a good indication of how well the bacteria is estalished.

 

I DON'T WANT TO LIVE HERE ANYMORE...

 

Come to BC, we don't slide off the road, we hydroplane off it

 

And it's about time the show gets started, good news on the cycle... life soooooon.

 

Christine

[Hexadron]

Come to BC, we don't slide off the road, we hydroplane off it

 

And it's about time the show gets started, good news on the cycle... life soooooon.

 

Christine

 

Hah, yup it's going to be one or the other

 

Indeed. Have any words of wisdom for when I start dosing ZEOfood,, ZEObak, and ZEOstart?

[Deckoz2302]

I need to learn more about zeo....

[BadCrab]

Simple overview.

[Mstefa1]

 

Nice. I was actually curious on why people test for Mg, and your post answered some questions for sure. Thanks! Well given my tank volume, I am hoping i don't have to dose, but will if it needs it.

 

 

I am using Fluval SEA Pro Marine Salt. There wasn't much info on reefers using it, but the owner of my LFS uses it since it came out on all of their tanks they manage (Hotels, Malls, and all their tanks in store) Besides having the best and healthiest coral selection I have come across, he said it is great stuff. Corals reeacted very positively, and all params are in check - which is what i'm looking for.

 

We will have to see, but given that it's my first salt, i can't really compare it to anything. As long as the parameters are consistent, I think i'll be happy.

 

I know a lot of folks are very weary of Hagen and think they will come out with a sub-par products, but I have faith.

 

Finally! I still think your cycle may be done before mine though haha.

 

Yes, summers here can be very hot as well. Usually not past +30°C (95°F) for hotter days. Winters very easily go as low as -40°C though which is damn cold! It's not always the cold that's the worst, but the past few years we have had so much slow. Last year was really bad as people roofs were caving in die to the immense weight of the slow.

 

This year it seems to be blizzards... Today is very bad. I went home from work early, as the roads were so bad. My stupid work is staying open when everyone else is closing for the day. So long suckers... They can fire me. i rather be alive Thank You.

 

Haha a bit I would love to get a controller. Definitely for the future though. I think it will be amazing on a larger tank with a sump and all that. I won't have too much to control as I am trying my darndest to stick to the KISS rule. Although it's never a bad idea to have one. Like i said maybe down the road. Smartphone control is amazing!

 

Very true. I was just saying it would be nice to have if anything seemed out of whack (coral imploded etc... I think API or Salifert would both be okay to have on hand. I'll go with whats on sale TBH.

 

 

I have been testing salinity nearly every day or two. Given the amount i top off, it always stays in check.i probably won't test as much in the future, but it's so damn easy with a refractor. It only takes about a minute, including cleaning it up afterwards.

 

Oh life does definitely happen. Well more so work than life lately. I won't be testing as much after my initial livestock has settled in

 

I wouldn't worry about ammonia from corals. More so from dead fish which you should NEVER have. Since day 1 of my pod resurrection I've had the same fish. The exception being my old clown jumped into my rear chambers and I have so much back there I just couldn't get him out and he perished. My new clown jumped in once but I was able to get him out. He's never jumped since. Even my fire fish don't jump and I'm topless. Perhaps the rim keeps them in check so I'm worried about fish in a rimless.

 

The first reason people get a controller is to control their heater. Remember that a heater is the #1 thing that fails in the tank. It's not if, it's when and I don't care if you have a Petco heater or a top of the line heater. After that, lighting is switched next but if lighting has it's own controller then not necessarily although you can dim through Apex if that is desired. Then pumps. Then you have it setup to send you a text message if something is wrong. And if you have battery backup in your house for your internet, Apex, etc, you can still get text messages when the power goes out. Not to mention it's so cool turning things off with my cellphone for feedings and water changes as opposed to flipping a switch. i.e. on my Aquapod if I want to feed I'd have to turn off my Koralia, my return pump, my ATO, and my chiller. I can do this all at once by setting a feeding mode. But let's say my chiller fails in the summer then I would want my light to turn off if my water temp gets too warm. Or say the power goes out it takes 5-10 minutes for my MH light to cool down so I don't want to power it up before that time has established. Just a few examples.

 

Now in my PicO I'll have to turn off my heater, my pumps, and my ATO just to do a water change. Since I don't have a DJ power center in there like I do with my Aquapod, I'd have to physically unplug all the cords.

[Hexadron]

I need to learn more about zeo....

 

Me too! Heres to hoping Christine may chime in some info for us

 

Simple overview.

 

Thanks for the link ZROGST. I am not going full-ZEO by any means, simply adding the three products I mentioned above to make sure my cycle well rounded as well as my bacteria. I thought it to be a good idea as I am not introducing any forms of live rock.

 

I really like that you can experiment with many of their products even if you aren't using the zeolites or anything.

[NanoTopia]

Hah, yup it's going to be one or the other

 

Indeed. Have any words of wisdom for when I start dosing ZEOfood,, ZEObak, and ZEOstart?

Did you do a big dose of Zeobak at the beginning, best way to cycle?

 

Your tank is 10 gallons gross volume? If so...

 

ZeoBak: I would do 1 drop every other day for 10 days straight (total 5 drops), then 1 drop a week after that.

 

ZeoFood7: This is combination bacteria and coral food, but you can start dosing it with the Zeobak. It is good for the biology of the tank. Dose 1 drop a day after corals are added. It is a food so it will increase nutrients in the tank so maybe start with 1 drop every other day to start and see how it goes, if you get diatoms or algae - stop dosing it for a while. I don't dose this product since I use so many other foods individually but it is a good product to use.

 

ZeoStart3: This is your carbon source. Dose 0.05mL twice a day once you get some PO4 and NO3 happening in the tank (fish added). That is 0.05mL not 0.5mL , you will need to use a 1mL syringe for accurate dosing. Do not over dose this product.

 

Have a look through the guide but if you are not running the Zeolites, your running a hybrid system with Zeovit additives, there is not real guide for that. I would check out the Zeovit forum for what people are doing with hybrid systems.

 

 

Best advice..."Less is more" Start very conservatively and watch your corals and rock, they will tell you what's going on in your system.

 

Christine

 

 

EDIT: You should be running a skimmer if your dosing carbon, I do suppose you could get away with some regular WC's, like 2g a week.

[Hexadron]

I wouldn't worry about ammonia from corals. More so from dead fish which you should NEVER have. Since day 1 of my pod resurrection I've had the same fish. The exception being my old clown jumped into my rear chambers and I have so much back there I just couldn't get him out and he perished. My new clown jumped in once but I was able to get him out. He's never jumped since. Even my fire fish don't jump and I'm topless. Perhaps the rim keeps them in check so I'm worried about fish in a rimless.

 

The first reason people get a controller is to control their heater. Remember that a heater is the #1 thing that fails in the tank. It's not if, it's when and I don't care if you have a Petco heater or a top of the line heater. After that, lighting is switched next but if lighting has it's own controller then not necessarily although you can dim through Apex if that is desired. Then pumps. Then you have it setup to send you a text message if something is wrong. And if you have battery backup in your house for your internet, Apex, etc, you can still get text messages when the power goes out. Not to mention it's so cool turning things off with my cellphone for feedings and water changes as opposed to flipping a switch. i.e. on my Aquapod if I want to feed I'd have to turn off my Koralia, my return pump, my ATO, and my chiller. I can do this all at once by setting a feeding mode. But let's say my chiller fails in the summer then I would want my light to turn off if my water temp gets too warm. Or say the power goes out it takes 5-10 minutes for my MH light to cool down so I don't want to power it up before that time has established. Just a few examples.

 

Now in my PicO I'll have to turn off my heater, my pumps, and my ATO just to do a water change. Since I don't have a DJ power center in there like I do with my Aquapod, I'd have to physically unplug all the cords.

 

It definitely serves a great purpose, that's for sure!

 

I thought of the power issue, and have a power bar specifically for things that need to go off for water changes, with my lights and mp10 on a separate one (I can turn them off manually with their controllers) this will work fine for me for the time being, and shouldn't cause too much hassle.