theGil Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 Are you sure it has ich? And yep, just a bunch of PVC. I had some chaeto full of pods in there from when I started QT and make sure everyone was eating before starting treatment, but I removed it. No sand, where did you hear that mandarins bury themselves? Only some wrasses do that. If she doesn't have ich, then idk what is wrong with her. Is it possible that she's mourning the loss of her 18-day-long relationship with a male mandarin that died this week? Otherwise, there's ich in that tank. All other fish are being treated already w Cupramine in a QT. When I say bury, I mean lay belly-down in a shallow ditch in the sand with sand kicked over their bodies. That's how my mandarins have always slept at night. Unfortunately, she's now doing that during most of the day :/ Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 If she doesn't have ich, then idk what is wrong with her. Is it possible that she's mourning the loss of her 18-day-long relationship with a male mandarin that died this week? Otherwise, there's ich in that tank. All other fish are being treated already w Cupramine in a QT. When I say bury, I mean lay belly-down in a shallow ditch in the sand with sand kicked over their bodies. That's how my mandarins have always slept at night. Unfortunately, she's now doing that during most of the day :/ if the others are being treated, treat it as well. fish dont mate for life, so i doubt she batted an eyelash at the other dying. and ive never seen a mandarin do that, probably not normal. Link to comment
heifinator Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 Its 100% normal for mandarins to do that. At night they will turn very pale, and not move, I have literally poked mine at night and they will not move its crazy. Mine gets covered in sand all the time as well. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 Its 100% normal for mandarins to do that. At night they will turn very pale, and not move, I have literally poked mine at night and they will not move its crazy. Mine gets covered in sand all the time as well. I've seen them with sand stuck on their body (their slime coat catches everything, I even found one with a small dwarf cerith stuck to it lol), but I've never heard of one burying itself. Link to comment
theGil Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Thanks for the previous responses on my own thread in this forum. I just updated over there. But here's a pic of my Mandarin in her "buried" state. Link to comment
jack1978 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Update and question on treatment. This is day 6 using the Cupramine. By day 2 there was noticeable change in all fish....for the better! The breathing slowed and they seem alot more active. I tested the copper today with an API test kit-worthless btw. What test do you guys use? Is there a digital type? I need to do another wc before I leave town for a couple days and want to make sure levels are where they need to be. Thanks Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Update and question on treatment. This is day 6 using the Cupramine. By day 2 there was noticeable change in all fish....for the better! The breathing slowed and they seem alot more active. I tested the copper today with an API test kit-worthless btw. What test do you guys use? Is there a digital type? I need to do another wc before I leave town for a couple days and want to make sure levels are where they need to be. Thanks I would get the Salifert test kit. the Seachem one is ok, but Salifert is better in this case. Link to comment
theGil Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Update and question on treatment. This is day 6 using the Cupramine. By day 2 there was noticeable change in all fish....for the better! The breathing slowed and they seem alot more active. I tested the copper today with an API test kit-worthless btw. What test do you guys use? Is there a digital type? I need to do another wc before I leave town for a couple days and want to make sure levels are where they need to be. Thanks Just in case you're making the same mistake I first made with the API copper test, be sure to read the color of the water by looking DOWN from the TOP of the test tube, as you hold it over the color chart. You'll notice that the colors on the chart are the same shape/size as the top of the test tube. Link to comment
jack1978 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Ha ha, whoops! I'll try that way Hey Ben, are either of those digital? Or are they like "dip strip" style? Thanks guys Link to comment
theGil Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Ha ha, whoops! I'll try that way Hey Ben, are either of those digital? Or are they like "dip strip" style? Thanks guys Haha. Ok, glad I mentioned it, then. The water looks totally clear when looking from the side of the test tube Link to comment
jack1978 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Haha. Ok, glad I mentioned it, then. The water looks totally clear when looking from the side of the test tube So am I, thanks! And yes, looked almost clear. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Ha ha, whoops! I'll try that way Hey Ben, are either of those digital? Or are they like "dip strip" style? Thanks guys No. Strips don't ever work for anything, and there are no digital ones as far as i know, but Salifert is the easiest to read and most accurate (without spending several times more money for lab testing). Link to comment
jack1978 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 No. Strips don't ever work for anything, and there are no digital ones as far as i know, but Salifert is the easiest to read and most accurate (without spending several times more money for lab testing). Salifert it is. Thanks again Ben. Link to comment
jack1978 Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 Update. 12 days in and all fish are looking good. Haven't had any other losses after the hawkfish. Going to do another 50% wc today. I think the Midas blenny likes the qt....I got various PVC fittings, drilled holes in them to attach suction cups and then stuck them around the sides of the tank. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Good deal! Keep us updated. Link to comment
Deleted User 3 Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 if the others are being treated, treat it as well. fish dont mate for life, so i doubt she batted an eyelash at the other dying. and ive never seen a mandarin do that, probably not normal. My (now female) fish freaked out when the other one died, and they were only together for like 2 months. She was acting so weird, and then when i put the new fish in, they were instant friends. It looked to me like she was happy to have another fish in there. So just saying... Link to comment
jack1978 Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 Good deal! Keep us updated. Will do Ben. When I do the water change....if I take out 50% (5gal.) and add back 50% I can dose 15 or 16 drops to bring the copper levels back up correct? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Will do Ben. When I do the water change....if I take out 50% (5gal.) and add back 50% I can dose 15 or 16 drops to bring the copper levels back up correct? You're up to full-strength or still half-strength? Basically just match the water you're taking out. Link to comment
jack1978 Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 You're up to full-strength or still half-strength? Basically just match the water you're taking out. Full strength right now. First dose was 16 drops followed by another 16 48hrs later. So I figured take out 50% water and dose another 16 drops. Just wanted to make sure I was thinking through correctly. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Full strength right now. First dose was 16 drops followed by another 16 48hrs later. So I figured take out 50% water and dose another 16 drops. Just wanted to make sure I was thinking through correctly. Yep, you got it right! Link to comment
theGil Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Isn't the final dosage supposed to be 4 drops per gallon to get 0.5 mg/L? That would be 20 drops for a 5 gallon water change. No? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Isn't the final dosage supposed to be 4 drops per gallon to get 0.5 mg/L? That would be 20 drops for a 5 gallon water change. No? Final concentration is 2mL per 40L (10.5g). There is about 16 drops per mL, so 32 drops per 10.5g, and that's 3.05 drops per gallon. Link to comment
jack1978 Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 Yep, you got it right! Thanks for the confirmation Easy math, but didn't want to nuke them after all this. Link to comment
theGil Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Final concentration is 2mL per 40L (10.5g). There is about 16 drops per mL, so 32 drops per 10.5g, and that's 3.05 drops per gallon. Well, Ben, I know you and I discussed the slightly differing dosages recommended by Seachem on one of my threads (that my bottle says 2 drops per gallon, then repeat 48 hrs later, which equals 4 drops per gallon, which is ABOUT the same as the 2 ml per gallon (EDIT: 2 ml per 10.5 gallons, NOT per gallon) mentioned on seachem's site). But if we simply follow the directions on Seachem's site (idk why they're slightly diff than the ones on my bottle), they say: If the bottle has a dropper cap, use 20 drops (1 mL) per 40 L (10.5 gallons*) the first day, wait 48 hours, then repeat. So that's 40 drops total per 10.5 gallons, which is 19.05 drops (we'll call it 19 drops) for Jack's 5 gallon water change. Now, idk how many "drops" are in a mL, but Seachem says 20 drops, when using their dropper cap. Link to comment
theGil Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 I did a "how many drops in a ml" google search. Apparently, it depends on the properties of the liquid and the device being used to produce the drop. The following are a few of the answers I found, but in general, I'd simply go with Seachem's directions on the proper dosage, i.e., 40 drops per 10.5 gallons. http://answers.reference.com/information/m...n_a_milliliter: There are more than one type of drop. The metric drop is a 1/20 mL. This means it take 20 drops to make one milliliter. A medical drop is 1/12 of a mL. This means is take 12 drops for one mL. You can find more information here: en.wikipedia.org http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_many_drops_a...one_milliliter: There are about 20 drops of water in 1 milliliter. Eye drops are about the same. For other liquids, the number depends on the viscosity of the liquid, which affects the average drop size. Thicker, more viscous fluids are likely to produce larger drops and therefore fewer drops per milliliter. Note that 1 milliliter is equal to 1 cc. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drop_%28unit%29: Pharmacists have since moved to metric measurements, with a drop being rounded to exactly 0.05 mL (that is, 20 drops per milliliter). In hospitals, intravenous tubing is used to deliver medication in drops of various sizes ranging from 10 drops/mL to 60 drops/mL. Link to comment
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