THE OFFICIAL ASK ALBERT THIEL THREAD

[atoll]

I posted the above thread on Reef2Reef, Just watch somebody now tell me how wrong I am

[albertthiel]

I didn't even know there was dried milk. Does that come from a dried cow?

For all those people feeding nothing but dried, sterile foods, let me know how long those fish live "disease" free or spawn.

Without quarantining of course as that is the natural way and my only way

 

???

I posted the above thread on Reef2Reef, Just watch somebody now tell me how wrong I am

Yes the answers should be interesting indeed

 

AT

[atoll]

 

Yes the answers should be interesting indeed

 

AT

 

A few replies and to so bad ....so far

[albertthiel]

 

A few replies and to so bad ....so far

Early days yet Les

 

AT

[atoll]

My DIY ATS is doing very well growing GHA amongst other algae at a fast rate. The screen which is just under A4 size is lit from both sides with cheap 30w Hydrophonics LED units. for 20 hours a day. My penultimate harvest was 120g of GHA after leaving it 2 weeks since the harvest before it. The one I have just carried out with 7 days of growth has 90g of GHA.

Here are a few pic's.

[albertthiel]

That's a real nice amount Les

 

AT

[atoll]

That's a real nice amount Les

 

AT

 

Sure is Albert and I am amazed just how much GHA can grow in a week.

[albertthiel]

 

Sure is Albert and I am amazed just how much GHA can grow in a week.

Yes that IS a lot in just one week

 

AT

[Paul B]

Tank is doing well, everything is happy and healthy. Cleaning the algae scrubber every couple of weeks is a pain and a little time consuming. The water cooled LED lights are still functioning as I expected.

Clingfish and bangai cardinals seem happy.

The biggest feeder is by far the copperband. That thing will eat all the food I put in there by himself if I didn't target feed everything.

Almost all the gorgonians are growing out of the water and if I get time I will trim them and glue the pieces someplace.

I am also thinking (not to seriously) of removing the algae trough and scraping it out. There is no algae in it as it is filled with small corals and tube worms. I would assume it is a great nursery for the numerous amphipods I have in there. I only collected amphipods twice this year and I hope to go collecting maybe once more. If not I at least want to collect some more mud, but I can get that from the shore anywhere without going to a tide pool.

The reverse undergravel filter is the oldest thing in the tank and was in there from the start. I still think of that as the heart of my system and if I started a new tank tomorrow (not likely) I would add a reverse undergravel filter.

What's not to like? Of course I doubt I could still get dolomite.

I wonder what will happen to this tank when I finally take it down. It has to come down at some point because I am not exactly 16 any more.

I was also thinking (again not very seriously) about removing my skimmer temporally to fill with vinegar and clean. That has only happened once many years ago. It is bolted to my stand so it is not really a five minute job.

Recently I re-designed and re-built the venture valve and this new one (which costs about a buck) works much better. I have 3 air pumps running my skimmer because it is about 5' tall and there is to much back pressure for the venture to suck enough air in so I supplement it with air pumps and I couldn't find one strong enough. I also use it with Ozone but I run it full power and removed the sensor from the tank as it wasn't doing anything anyway.

[albertthiel]

Wow that is a super update on the tank and in the tasks you are planning to undertake

 

Thanks Paul

 

AT

[Paul B]

Yesterday I had to euthanize my female bangai cardinal. She was at the end of her life and could no longer swim. I saw this coming for a couple of months and she lived out her life happy and healthy. They only live 3 or 4 years. Her mate is also near his end. The pair stopped spawning and slowed down a lot and ate very little near the end.

I can tell when it starts happening.

I wrote an article about it if you are interested.

http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/how-to-tell-marine-fish-dying-old-age-5782/

[CronicReefer]

Albert more on the Oxydator confirming my belief that the Hydrogen Peroxide is broken down into water and oxygen by the catalyst BEFORE the entering the aquarium.

 

Quote "What makes the Oxydator unique?

The benefits of adding hydrogen peroxide to water have long been known. It keeps fish in good condition, prevents acute oxygen starvation, stops fungus from growing and halts the build-up of decaying matter which makes the water murky. But regulating the peroxide concentration has always been a problem until now! The Oxydator is a unique new design with a constant, controlled release, giving the exact amount needed at any time. It radically improves the water quality, giving all the benefits mentioned above. The key is a specially developed ceramic which breaks peroxide down completely into water and oxygen. But the Oxydator does not only provide a supply of fresh oxygen. Unlike ordinary aerators, it will not expel CO2, an important plant nutrient, from the tank. It also releases activated oxygen which detoxifies poisons, rendering them completely harmless. With an Oxydator you can keep many more fish in your tank and you do not have to change the water so often. The oxygen supply adjusts to the temperature of a populated pond or tank. An 8 °C increase doubles the amount produced. Approximately 20,000 liter of water will be 100% oxygen-saturated (156 g of oxygen) by 1 liter of 30% peroxide solution at 25 °C. The table below shows the quantities and consumption rates at 25 °C. A simple adjustment gives the figures at other temperatures. An average number of fish and plants is assumed for each volume. As a highly populated tank needs more oxygen, the next highest combination may be more appropriate. The Oxydator also provides economical, purifying activated oxygen for plant-free, highly populated aquaria where aerators satisfy the large oxygen demands."

Just curious what strength of peroxide you use? I was concentrating mine down to around 7% but stores stopped selling non-stabilized peroxide so I will need to purchase some online. Just wanted your two cents before I did.

[atoll]

Just curious what strength of peroxide you use? I was concentrating mine down to around 7% but stores stopped selling non-stabilized peroxide so I will need to purchase some online. Just wanted your two cents before I did.

 

I use 9% but it really depends on a number of factors as to what % to use. Such as the size of the tank, the number of fish, the amount you feed and number of catalysts used. However you should find in most cases 6 to 9% ideal. I never recommend more than 9% peroxide.

[albertthiel]

Yesterday I had to euthanize my female bangai cardinal. She was at the end of her life and could no longer swim. I saw this coming for a couple of months and she lived out her life happy and healthy. They only live 3 or 4 years. Her mate is also near his end. The pair stopped spawning and slowed down a lot and ate very little near the end.

I can tell when it starts happening.

I wrote an article about it if you are interested.

http://www.saltwatersmarts.com/how-to-tell-marine-fish-dying-old-age-5782/

Sorry to read it Paul but you are right they do have a short lifespan compared to the other fish we keep

 

AT

 

I use 9% but it really depends on a number of factors as to what % to use. Such as the size of the tank, the number of fish, the amount you feed and number of catalysts used. However you should find in most cases 6 to 9% ideal. I never recommend more than 9% peroxide.

Indeed. Well said Les

 

AT

[CronicReefer]

I use 9% but it really depends on a number of factors as to what % to use. Such as the size of the tank, the number of fish, the amount you feed and number of catalysts used. However you should find in most cases 6 to 9% ideal. I never recommend more than 9% peroxide.

Thanks for the info. I'll probably grab some 9% online then since I only feed LRS foods.

[niQo]

I just bought an oxydator and I'm hoping to get it in the mail this week! What is meant by non-stabilized peroxide? We have some food grade 35% that I was hoping to dilute... Would that work?

[atoll]

I just bought an oxydator and I'm hoping to get it in the mail this week! What is meant by non-stabilized peroxide? We have some food grade 35% that I was hoping to dilute... Would sues that work?

 

Some peroxide have a stabilizer in it to prevent it going off so to speak. I have used this in the past without any issues but I am not sure if it is really OK to do so. Quote "The stabilizers are typically small amounts of acidic phosphate salts/phosphoric acid or extremely low levels of stannic oxide, neither of which are vaguely harmful.

Food grade H2O2 simply has lower transition metal ion content than cheaper grades. Without stabilizer, hydrogen peroxide rapidly degrades on it's own to water and oxygen gas."

If you have 35% you can dilute it with RO water to the required strength.

[brandon429]

oxydators are good because they don't kill sensitive organisms in the tank, non catalyzed peroxide (right from the bottle) sure can, and 3% vs 35% is quite the leap, 35% being mega powerful able to kill much but it also is the ultimate treatment for certain rooted invaders given a careful balance

 

our peroxide threads show total control over raw use

 

peroxide use outside of an oxydator has risks.

 

within the OD the catalyst and system design meters out the peroxide, the oxygen only claimed by some, either way its safe such that no known sensitives exist for OD use even in freshwater bee shrimp tanks (ultra sensitives)

 

OD have limited use in tank cure threads they are preventatives for things like cyano and diatom issues (can be corrected and sustained without OD as well)

 

non catalyzed peroxide has cured thousands and thousands of issues some even presenting with an OD in use, some invaders are too strong for oxydators.

[niQo]

 

Some peroxide have a stabilizer in it to prevent it going off so to speak. I have used this in the past without any issues but I am not sure if it is really OK to do so. Quote "The stabilizers are typically small amounts of acidic phosphate salts/phosphoric acid or extremely low levels of stannic oxide, neither of which are vaguely harmful.

Food grade H2O2 simply has lower transition metal ion content than cheaper grades. Without stabilizer, hydrogen peroxide rapidly degrades on it's own to water and oxygen gas."

If you have 35% you can dilute it with RO water to the required strength.

Thanks, after I run out of the bottles it comes with I'll dilute the 35% to 3% and maybe a bit higher and see if that helps.

[albertthiel]

Thanks, after I run out of the bottles it comes with I'll dilute the 35% to 3% and maybe a bit higher and see if that helps.

A little higher than 3% Wouk be my rec

 

AT

[atoll]

Thanks, after I run out of the bottles it comes with I'll dilute the 35% to 3% and maybe a bit higher and see if that helps.

What model Oxydator have you bought, what gallonage is your tank and how heavily are you stocked? As Albert says 3% is a little low I would try 6% first and see how that goes.

[niQo]

What model Oxydator have you bought, what gallonage is your tank and how heavily are you stocked? As Albert says 3% is a little low I would try 6% first and see how that goes.

Right, I forgot it comes with 6%!

Tank is about 12 gallons actual water volume. Pretty heavily stocked. I got the mini oxydator from sochtung

[niQo]

oxydators are good because they don't kill sensitive organisms in the tank, non catalyzed peroxide (right from the bottle) sure can, and 3% vs 35% is quite the leap, 35% being mega powerful able to kill much but it also is the ultimate treatment for certain rooted invaders given a careful balance

 

our peroxide threads show total control over raw use

 

peroxide use outside of an oxydator has risks.

 

within the OD the catalyst and system design meters out the peroxide, the oxygen only claimed by some, either way its safe such that no known sensitives exist for OD use even in freshwater bee shrimp tanks (ultra sensitives)

 

OD have limited use in tank cure threads they are preventatives for things like dyano and diatom issues (can be corrected and sustained without OD as well)

 

non catalyzed peroxide has cured thousands and thousands of issues some even presenting with an OD in use, some invaders are too strong for oxydators.

I'm trying to get a handle on green turf algae. I read of someone having success raising alk to >9 and using an oxydator. An out of tank peroxide dip (3%) and scraping the tank helps only for a few days and then it grows right back! PO4 and nitr. always test at 0 with Salifert.

[brandon429]

this is a certain cure method for your invader if the $$ OD doesn't work... oxydator is weaker than external contact although it is sustained in the tank at lower levels its worth a try if you want to buy one experimentally for your invader.

 

Try to find merely 5 OD thread cures for bryopsis or brush types, only 5. I bet its hard to do, if you buy an OD for that its off rare proofs.

 

 

this method cannot be beaten by any known method in reefing for anchored invaders (or we would have threads with consistent cures being shown for brush algae and bryopsis types... currently all treatments that are indirect to the target have variation outcomes across threads, this is a direct-on-target method that exceeds non rasping)

http://reef2reef.com/threads/5-new-bryopsis-challenges-are-posted-and-all-can-be-cured-using-a-rasp-and-a-test-rock.257862/

 

your treatments were leaving the holdfast. the OD has a chance of working, but that way above is free and always works without variation. its harder work though

 

I give the OD a 20% chance of curing brush algae set in deep/ I give my rasping method a 100% chance because holdfasts only run so deep. I could cure your problem with a butter knife literally and no chems. id use chems though as post cleanup fragmentation insurance. the frag in that pic is cured in one pass and fully algae free 5 weeks later.

[niQo]

this is a certain cure method for your invader if the $$ OD doesn't work... oxydator is weaker than external contact although it is sustained in the tank at lower levels its worth a try if you want to buy one experimentally for your invader.

 

Try to find merely 5 OD thread cures for bryopsis or brush types, only 5. I bet its hard to do, if you buy an OD for that its off rare proofs.

 

 

this method cannot be beaten by any known method in reefing for anchored invaders (or we would have threads with consistent cures being shown for brush algae and bryopsis types... currently all treatments that are indirect to the target have variation outcomes across threads, this is a direct-on-target method that exceeds non rasping)

http://reef2reef.com/threads/5-new-bryopsis-challenges-are-posted-and-all-can-be-cured-using-a-rasp-and-a-test-rock.257862/

 

your treatments were leaving the holdfast. the OD has a chance of working, but that way above is free and always works without variation. its harder work though

 

I give the OD a 20% chance of curing brush algae set in deep/ I give my rasping method a 100% chance because holdfasts only run so deep. I could cure your problem with a butter knife literally and no chems. id use chems though as post cleanup fragmentation insurance. the frag in that pic is cured in one pass and fully algae free 5 weeks later.

Thanks for the link. I was on that thread a few weeks ago and that made me take out a rock and scraping the algae off. I must not have gone deep enough as it's coming back. Another issue is that I have pukani rock and I don't think I would be able to get everything as it's so porous (even more so after an acid bath). So my hope I that the oxydator will make the environment less hospitable and the CUC more able to eat it.

 

I wish I had known 1,5 year ago what kind of algae this was...