B16A2NR Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 Alright I've done a lot of research in different tridacna clams particularly blue maximas. I have read peoples questions and answers to PC lighting and clams but I need some input for my system. I managed to stuff 111w of PC in my 20" custom canopy. 32w 50-50, 28w 50-50, 36w actinic, 15w 50-50 and 4w led moonlighting. I understand this high of evaporation levels leads to fluctuation of salinity so I made an air driven top off system with a float switch. I also lined the entire canopy with aluminum foil which gives off an excellent shimmer and more efficient reflection of light. I want to put in a 2.5" ORA cultured Maxima on the sand bed of my tank. I would feed once a week in a container with kent chromaplex, any other feeding comes from the top off (kalk, lugols, strontium, coralvite). Tank has been running for over a year, very stable conditions. I am worried that the lighting intensity isn't great enough to support the mantle's vibrant color long term. Has any one had any similar experiences with this setup? I literally have no more room for PC lighting under the hood, I might be able to fit a 70w halide 20k bulb but my evaporation level is already through the roof. Someone give me the green light or the red light weather or not I can support the clam. Thanks Todd http://www.nano-reef.com/gallery/showphoto...&cat=500&page=1 Link to comment
Aiptasia Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 From everyone i've spoken with, maxima's and croceas are very demanding about light. I'm currently thinking about a blue lined derasa or mottled squamosa for one of my tanks, and it's a 20g. with 130 watts of PC light. It's possible you could keep a maxima or crocea alive, but without strong halides it may lose it's color. There's a real difference between "surviving" and "thriving," and most people advise the strong intensity that MH provides for the blue clams. If you can add the 70 watt MH and control the temps and evap rate, the clam will thank you for it. Link to comment
TJG Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 I think that you might be able to "keep" one but I am sure would not thrive. Link to comment
ravenlot Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 I'm new to all of this and was curious about this subject so I thought I'd jump in and ask some questions myself. Aiptasia, you said a 70w MH would be welcomed. I'm getting a 70w MH to add to my 10g tank. I'll have to take out one of my 24w PC bulbs so it can fit. I think I can replace the other with a 28w bulb. So once everything is retrofitted, I'll probably have a 70w MH and a 28w actinic. Is this enough for a maxima to "thrive" on (besides feeding of course)? Link to comment
1fish2fish Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 I would probably avoid the Maxima under PC's. That seems to be what most sources recommend. Even the ORA site states that the Maximas need the high intensity light from a MH light. ORA does say that the Derasa and other more yellowish guys can be put under PC's. Whether or not they would trhive under PC is a different question. Link to comment
movingshadow Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 its also about the spectral output of metal halide lamps, they cover a wider range than PC's do.... ravenlot: I would think the lighting would be sufficient as long as the clam is relatively high up and directly under the light. just make sure all your other params are stable and in order.... hth Link to comment
onthefly Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 I agree with Shadow! Stablity is probably a bigger concern in your tank. Look at Brooklyn Johnny's tank.....3-4 maximas (maybe even a crocea) in there all under PC's. The Key to his success is the stability of the tank! It is easier, and you have a bit more leeway when your using MH, but I think you could do it under the lighting you descibed, if the tank is stable. Link to comment
B16A2NR Posted March 10, 2004 Author Share Posted March 10, 2004 Tank parameters are very stable. I have the kalk dripping at night through the air driven top off set on a timer so ph stays constant along with the salinity. Thanks for all the input. Todd Link to comment
Arden Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 I grew a small supercolored maxima from 2 to 4 inches wide under 2 96w pc's and it grew fast. I have since added a 175w MH. Bigger clams need more light though. Link to comment
ravenlot Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 How fast do they grow anyway? Will a 2.5" maxima outgrow a 10g tank within a year? Which ones grow the slowest? Link to comment
B16A2NR Posted March 10, 2004 Author Share Posted March 10, 2004 I am concidering the 70w halide now but am concerned that my toadstool or colt coral won't take well to the high lighting. Does anyone see a problem keeping leathers about 10" from a halide bulb? Does anyone make a 70w halide bulb between 10,000 and 20,000k? Todd Link to comment
TiGs Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 I'm keeping softies under 150W MH in my 10g. Just move them softies off to the side where the light is less intense. After a month or two they should be able to withstand the MH. I had a mushroom rock almost right under my MH and they multiplied like crazy. I would place the clam up high in the tank because PC are not as intense has MH which has greater water depth penetration. Link to comment
pyrrhus Posted April 8, 2004 Share Posted April 8, 2004 hey B people here are a lot more open to the idea than those over at reefcentral eh? Link to comment
B16A2NR Posted April 8, 2004 Author Share Posted April 8, 2004 Yeah cause they have no idea how small tank systems work. I told them I had an air driven auto top off and they still don't think my salinitys stable. I've seen a lot of your posts on clams to and I'm glad to see someone has some faith. I got the 2.5 ORA and have had it since the March 27th, its doing great and I have no concern of it becoming unhealthy. You can check out a picture in my gallery. Todd Link to comment
DSparks Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 /agrees with B16A2NR When I used to go to RC a lot I felt like everyone else knew so much and was reef dumb. But over the past couple months I've realized exactly what B16A2NR has said. We specialize in small tanks and know how to run them properly. Many RC'ers don't. I also think that once someone has spent a bunch of money on a setup, they don't like to think someone can keep the same stuff under anything "less". Link to comment
pyrrhus Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 I do hope that the clam extends the mantle a bit more than that on a regular basis, and if you havent already get daniel knops book on giant clams it is an invaluable resource for clam keepers Link to comment
Korbin Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 We need one of those pet psychics to ask the clams if they're getting enough light. Do they do clams? Link to comment
brahm Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 I wouldn't recommend trying a maxima under that setup. A Deresa or a Sqamosa would be much happier Link to comment
B16A2NR Posted April 25, 2004 Author Share Posted April 25, 2004 I ended up getting a 2.5" ORA farm raised Ultra Grade Maxima for $30 what a deal by the way. I have had him a while now and he is looking healthy. Dosing phyto and calcium for him and keeping paramaters very stable. I choose the ORA Maxima because farm raised tend to have a much higher survival rate, and small clams don't requre the super intense lighting that the much larger ones do. I know Maxima's need more intense light than other corals that is why I plan on adding a 70w DE halide this summer. Heres a pic of him looking pretty. http://www.nano-reef.com/gallery/showphoto...&cat=500&page=1 Link to comment
brahm Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 Originally posted by B16A2NR I ended up getting a 2.5" ORA farm raised Ultra Grade Maxima for $30 what a deal by the way. I have had him a while now and he is looking healthy. Dosing phyto and calcium for him and keeping paramaters very stable. I choose the ORA Maxima because farm raised tend to have a much higher survival rate, and small clams don't requre the super intense lighting that the much larger ones do. I know Maxima's need more intense light than other corals that is why I plan on adding a 70w DE halide this summer. Heres a pic of him looking pretty. http://www.nano-reef.com/gallery/showphoto...&cat=500&page=1 How long is a while, clams don't always show signs of problems they just kinda up and die a coupe months after you get em if they aren't in the correct conditions Link to comment
B16A2NR Posted April 25, 2004 Author Share Posted April 25, 2004 What do you concider proper conditions. Link to comment
brahm Posted April 25, 2004 Share Posted April 25, 2004 Intense enough lighting (ie metal halide), proper feeding, a tank that is being maintained correctly.. Lets take my case for example.. I just lost 2 fairy decent size maximas. I have them under 550 watts of light, 350 of that being Metal Halide, I feed regular DT, they seemed happy, up until they day they died.. Why they died.. I'm guessing it has to do with my phosphate problem right now. For 3 months not an inkling of stress. then come home.. Mush. Now my Deresa and my 2 Squmousa.. Still rocking. The bottom line is i feel it's hard enough to keep some of these animals even if you have all the right equipment (such as i thought i did), sometimes things in your tank get out of control.. If ontop of that your trying to slide by with a what might just sliiighty be enough when everything is optimum.. It won't be enough when something goes wrong. (btw and as far as i know it could have been that 2x175w Metal Halide and 200w of PC still wasn't enough maybe they would have lived if I had 2x250 Watt DE..) Link to comment
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