Oh no! Another minibow!

[ReeferMonkey]

A pic of my elusive Porcelain Crab. He's really neat, but rarely ventures out into the light. This is actually the first time I've seen him venture out during the "daytime." It took many pictures to get him to come out. You can also see my Devils Finger Leather and some peach/chartreuse zoanthids. Got to move the Leather to a better spot......

[ReeferMonkey]

These zoanthids rock. The striations on their disc makes me think of the Milky Way. I REALLY dig these.

[ReeferMonkey]

Purple/Pink rics. They were a little more cyan when I got them, but the polyps/bumps/whatever on the base have colored up to a bubblegum pink. Some are reattaching themselves to the rock they've been set on. I think once they're completely over, the rest of the rock is going over a few inches so I can make room for some more SPS on the platform once the halide is kicking.

 

Question: Can rics take intense light from a MH? They're place kind of high in the tank....

[ReeferMonkey]

Montipora capricornis. Tan with pink rim and purple/blue polyps. Sweet piece! You can't really see the pink rim at all, except when the tank lights are off and the room lights are on. Oh well, can't do anything about that one. This piece is one of the reasons I really wanted to get the MH up and running. Hopefully it's getting enough current to make it happy.

[ReeferMonkey]

And finally the full tank shot. The light kind of washes out the whole pic, I tried a bunch of settings on my camera and had a hard time getting it to come out in a way that I like. Win some, lose some.

 

Any suggestions from the expert photographers?

[ReeferMonkey]

Whew! Wit the new 30 second buffer between posts, that was bit of an effort. Now for a few questions for anyone with the patience to wade through my pics.

 

I'm supplementing pH/Ca/Alk/trace with AragaMilk, but so far my levels are only:

 

pH 8.01

Ca 370

KH 10.0

 

These all need to be higher. I'm going to finish up the bottle of AragaMilk, it has a few weeks left in it at the very least. I guess I have at least these options once it runs out:

 

Continue to use AragaMilk (every day)

Use B-Ionic (how many times??)

Use Kent (2x week??)

Use Seachem (???)

Use Kalk (in top off, as needed)

Get a Calcium Reactor (hahaha, I don't even have a sump, not likely)

 

Am I overlooking any products/methods? Anyone have experience with a variety of these products and can offer some advice?

[Saul 1]

Hey that looks like my hood! Good job I think it came out better than mine. But I wanted to know how your friend bent the wood. Its hard to tell but did he make those line cuts on the wood to bend the wood easier? Or did he use indivigual pieces of wood glue them to the frame and then place the bent wood over them? Either way, its a good job, congrats.

 

-Saul

[ReeferMonkey]

Hehe Yours was the one I showed him when he asked what I wanted He scored the front piece every inch or so 2/3 of the way through, then I think he just bent it and glued it down. He might check the thread (I hotlinked it from our local club board) so maybe he'll chime in. You can always PM Doxyman here or on RC, he's the one who made it for me. It's a near perfect fit!

 

Saul, where did you find the rails and how much space did you allow when you mounted them to the lid? I can't find 1/8" rails at HD or Lowe's, I need to go to the glass shop to get a piece custom cut to fit the inside anyway, so I hope that I can find them there.

[Saul 1]

Reefermonkey,

 

It's ok I'm glad my work was used to help a fellow reefer. Makes me feel proud. Anyways, I found the rails at a local glass shop in SD but they were1/2" thick. 2 weeks after I set it up I found some at Lowes that were 1/4" or 1/8" thick so you might want to ask again. Having the 1/2" rails makes the glass move a little but not enough to break, it will be ok. To mount the glass I cut four 2" long wood sticks and glued them to the lid. I then screwed on the 1/2" rails. On the back sides of the rail I screwed in a 3/4"-1" screw that way it keeps my glass from sliding when I lift the lid. I would show you pics but I dont have the digi cam with me. Hope that helps. O yeah I spent 8 bucks to have my glass cut just in case they dont overprice you.

 

-Saul

[redrocket]

Its lookin good reefermonkey. What kind of camera are you using? Your getting good ployp extention on the cap, glad to see.

[doxyman]

Originally posted by Saul 1

Hey that looks like my hood! Good job I think it came out better than mine. But I wanted to know how your friend bent the wood. Its hard to tell but did he make those line cuts on the wood to bend the wood easier? Or did he use indivigual pieces of wood glue them to the frame and then place the bent wood over them? Either way, its a good job, congrats.

 

Thanks Saul! Having your pics helped me quit a bit. Since Reefermonkey's tank is setup and running, all I had to go by was your pics and the dimensions, but I think it worked out well.

 

For the front of the hood, I used 1/4" ply and a radial arm saw to cut grooves (about 2/3rds deep) every 3/4" apart. This allows the plywood to bend really easy. Then I attached it to the frame w/glue and a few brads.

 

HTH

[redrocket]

Great hood doxyman, its much better with a pic.

Reefermonkey, your tank sure is filling up quickly, I want a frag of those milky way zoos...........:-P

[ReeferMonkey]

Casey,

 

I'm using a Sony DSC-S85 4-megapixel camera. I'm aggravated because it won't take any lenses other than Wide Angle. No macro

 

Seeing as I owe you a frag AND I beat you to Rob's that day to get the Milky Way zos, it won't be a problem getting you a frag of them once they're ready. That's the least I can do. Got any updated pics of your tank now that you're almost rid of all your SPS?

[redrocket]

No not yet, im gonna try and get some tonight. Rob came by last night and finished off the rest of the sps. I have a few select pieces I hung on to. Im glad to see that your tank is filling in it looks great. I was wondering how that nudibranch is doing in your tank? Also how do you get to the Tropical Fish Bowl?

 

Thanks about the zoos, I am making frags of the blues tonight so when you get the milky ways ready give me a ring and let me know so we can swap.

 

Lata

[ReeferMonkey]

I thought the nudi was done for! Two days ago, he got stuck (as usual) in the AquaClear surface skimmer attachment, this time at the top. I couldn't work him out with my finger, so I figured WTH, I'll just pull out the skimmer and he'll float away. Wrong. He went straight down the tube. A few seconds later, what I thought were chunks of Nudi the Nudibranch came spewing out of the AC200.

 

Then yesterday, there he is again, chilling on the LR. I guess that since I have the flow on the AC200 turned down, he must have narrowly missed the ph/impeller action. Whoda thunk it?

 

Check your email, I sent you directions to TFB.

 

It may be a bit before the Milky Ways are ready to frag. I'll keep a close eye on em, if I can work a polyp or three off I will.

[redrocket]

is the women beth you stated in the email the same one rob knows?

 

About the zoos its cool let them grow, then frag.

[spongebillyboi]

Sounds like you're on the right track. A couple pointers tho. DON'T do water changes during the cycle, your prolonging it, or risking a crash altogether. Also, .03 phosphates is an acceptable level. I use Phos-Zorb as a staple in my Ehiem 2213 Canister. It's natrually there from die back on your rock. Algae grows and dies back as a continual process, thus I feel the need for phosphate control in a reef. I've seen phosphates at 1.0ppm in my 20gal and red slime (cyanobacteria) started to grow on some of my corals, so I got scared and use a chemical (hate chemicals.. bad bad bad), but it's actually a safe one and it worked within 3 days. But then, hair algae took over so I tested for phosphates. Phos-Zorb is a pouch that you change about every 2 months. Also remember to keep your nitrates at zero. But don't do water changes until the cycle completes. Also, would not recommend more than 50% a week. I do recommend 50% a week for nitrate removal, phosphate, silicate, and by adding your salt of choice your adding back nutrients and in a small system I've been able to get away with this and haven't had to use trace element supplements. My calc level ias 480 just from doing 50% (20gal tank) every 10 days and using Reef Crystals salt by Aquarium Systems. 50% water changes are good all around for so many reasons listed above. This will cut your nitrate levels is half, it's a mathmatical certainty. Once at zero, make sure you limit yourself with a strict feeding schedule. I do 10ml Marine Snow every 3 days and Half cube frozen brine every 3 days. This formula keep my nitrates at Zero. Hope this advice helps!! Nice live rock with coralline.

[birdman204]

Originally posted by spongebillyboi

DON'T do water changes during the cycle, your prolonging it, or risking a crash altogether.

 

Also, .03 phosphates is an acceptable level. I use Phos-Zorb as a staple in my Ehiem 2213 Canister. It's natrually there from die back on your rock. Algae grows and dies back as a continual process, thus I feel the need for phosphate control in a reef.  

 

I do recommend 50% a week for nitrate removal, phosphate, silicate, and by adding your salt of choice your adding back nutrients and in a small system I've been able to get away with this and haven't had to use trace element supplements. My calc level ias 480 just from doing 50% (20gal tank) every 10 days and using Reef Crystals salt by Aquarium Systems.  

 

A few things.....

 

Water changes during the cycle WILL NOT crash your tank. It WILL assist in saving the livestock imported. Some people thihnk leaving LR in a bucket will cure it. Wrong, It is an active process.... The cycle may appear to take a bit longer ( although how would you know? cuz you are doing it one way or the other, and all rock and tanks are different) But your life that remains on the rock instead of choking for 2 - 6 weeks in nasty water will be well worth it.

 

Phosphates are an unavaoidable evil in reefs. There is a phosphate cycle, and it is needed in animal and tissue growth.. That sauid, yes 1.0 is fairly high, .01 is more acceptable. A reading of 0.0 will also be fine, as some phosphates may not bea detectable by our hobbyist grade kits....(read as , not a 25,000 GSMC).

 

50% WC a week!!! are you insane? If you need to change this much water in your tank every week, there are underlying issues. ALso, reef crystals, is ALMOST identical to Instant Ocean, Might as well save your money by buying I.O. instead of Reef crystals , You will still using the same sub-par salt at a cheaper cost.

Reef Crystals Inconsistencies....

http://www.aquacraft.net/w0024.html

 

http://www.aquacraft.net/s9910.html

 

http://www.aquacraft.net/sp0003.html

 

http://www.aquacraft.net/w0023.html

 

 

Hope those help...... All...

[birdman204]

Nice tank BTW Monkey!!! Those Protopalythoa , "milky way zoos" are very cool, I have them, I believe they may be a cooler water species, so try to keep the water tamps lower or they may melt away on ya. They are bada$$ when they close up too huh, All striped and glowing.

[ReeferMonkey]

Hey Bird, I have a question for you, how can you determine the difference between protopalythoa and zoanthus?

 

Also, how well can rics take MH? I had them at the top (and liked the spot) but moved them downstairs pending the installation of my new MH 70w. Was this justified?

 

Yes, the Milky Way polyps (patent pending ) are pretty sweet. Mine are doing great, sadly my purple zoanthids (protopalythoa?) are suffering some sort of malaise.. constricted heads, some white funk. I hope the colony makes it through with a few polyps. Seems that a few of them have closed up (successfully), hopefully it's to avoid infection.

[Nanite]

Originally posted by ReeferMonkey

Left side. Note the rock used to conceal the fluval bar from casual inspection.

 

Question :

 

Is the Fluval bar for water movement or was there another purpose for putting it there ?????.

[redrocket]

ReeferM, try taking the zoo colony and placing it in a higher flow area in your tank, and every day let it take a direct blast from the powerhead for a few seconds to blow the debris off.

[ReeferMonkey]

70w Aromat/10k Ushio finally up and running. Updated pics to come soon.

[harbingerofthefish]

looking good!

 

the hood is tres cool!

 

on pic taking-

 

try shooting down at a slight angle. colors seem to look better and you loose some of that washed out look. it obviously takes a few times, but you can usually get a good shot once and a while.

 

and you say you have no macro, but that frogspawn, candy, and sps shots are nice

 

as for the difference between protopalyothoas and zoanthids...(birdman correct me if I am wrong), is usually the tentacle formation. You can have long tentacled zoos, like you cyan ones. If you look at the tentacles they have 2 rows, or a staggered row of tentacles. usually have more rounded tips. Protopalyothoas have a single row of tentacles and typically have more pointed ends.

 

p.s. you using your stock bow hood anymore? I know I can order it from AGA but if your not in need of it

[ReefMad1967]

Put the rics on the bottom as shrooms are low light corals. BTW i have many frags available, orange monti, monit cap, yellow polyps, SPS. I'll post som pics tonight.

 

Mike