Machupicchu Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 can anyone recommend where to get a round heatsink that would have enough surface to fit one of these cell arrangements? Link to comment
firechild Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Also checking out these thomas drivers, specifically the 40-105, is there a current adjustment on these to bring the max down to 1000mA? Or would i need to settle with the 40-70 I was wondering this as well. Looking at the data sheet, it doesn't seem to be an option. I was concerned about the possibility of hitting XP-E emitters with 1050mA but also wanted the option to run them above 700mA which puts me in a really tough situation. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 50mA over spec is not an issue for XP-Es, provided they are heatsinked properly. There is no maximum current adjustment on these drivers like the Meanwells, which I consider a plus. You no longer have to mess with adjustments to get the thing working. You know what the output is going to be out of the box, unlike the Meanwells which tended to be all over the place. If you want 700mA output from a 1050mA driver, use the dimmer. If 700ma is all you will need, get a 700mA driver. Link to comment
NeveSSL Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Many, many, MANY thanks for doing this, evil. I have an acquaintance who has a 600g tank who is wanting an LED setup. I think what you prototyped would actually be perfect since its a 5ft deep tank... I think 5 lights like this one will cover nicely. I'll be in touch... Any word on when these heatsinks might go on sale? It looks like I may need about 6 of these and a butt load of drivers. Brandon Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Shouldn't be long on the heatsinks. We just got a bunch in from the anodizers. I just need to finish putting the parts into the system. Link to comment
NeveSSL Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Nice. I hope you guys are making plenty! Brandon Link to comment
Neya Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Would this par monster be overkill for my 2.5gal, at what height do you think it could grow sps? Maybe glued to the ceiling? :lol: Love it. The DIY kit is going to make my future plan harder(as in, deciding which light to use) Link to comment
Machupicchu Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Evil, based on the proto fixture, how far away would a 1/4 thick piece of acrylic need to be from one of the bridgelux LEDs? Or did the warpage only occur because there were 4 four of them Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Would this par monster be overkill for my 2.5gal, at what height do you think it could grow sps? Maybe glued to the ceiling? :lol: Love it. The DIY kit is going to make my future plan harder(as in, deciding which light to use) You might need to mount it to the ceiling up stairs Evil, based on the proto fixture, how far away would a 1/4 thick piece of acrylic need to be from one of the bridgelux LEDs? Or did the warpage only occur because there were 4 four of them A single one will warp the acrylic. When I put the reflectors on, the acrylic was an inch from the LEDs, and it still warped. Best thing I can suggest is to get airflow into the gap between the splash gurad and the LEDs. That's one of the modifications that we made on the heatsink for production. It shouldn't need much to cool the acrylic down enough to stop it from warping. Link to comment
Machupicchu Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Cool, this was already planned out in the fixture, im planning on running two 80mm fans side by side and on their side blowing across the heatsink and under where the leds will be. I was thinking an inch in between LED and acrylic. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Sounds like a good plan. Link to comment
ajmckay Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Oh noez! The pictures from page 2 are gone! Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Nope. Still there. Check to make sure that Photobucket isn't filtered by where ever you are accessing the web. Link to comment
ajmckay Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Hmmm... That's a definite possibility (maximizing productivity here at work), though oddly enough the pictures I just hosted using photobucket are showing up on a different thread... Hmmm... it's a mystery. Link to comment
avaneaton2000 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 This experiment really got me thinking! I'm going to be setting up a standard 90g as a peninsula and was wondering if 6 802's with 8 XPE's around each one would work out. I was thinking two heat sinks each with 3 802's on them in a triangle pattern with 2 on the center brace sides and one centered on the ends sides because one end will have the overflow and the other end will have a sea swirl taking up some space. Hope you can give some insight. Thanks! Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 That's certainly possible. The 802's will be a lot more practical than what I used. I'm trying to find an excuse to try one of the new 8800lm units Link to comment
avaneaton2000 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I was talking to Steve the bridgelux sales guy yesterday and he had no idea about the use of LEDs for aquarium use, he was pretty blown away by what I was telling him. Also told him that they need to start making RB leds. There is always an excuse to try out the bad boys. Link to comment
bwidner Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Are the heatsinks available yet? Having the one acro at the top of my tank and seeing it being pretty happy(good polyp extension etc...)has me really thinking about making my cube rimless and building an LED fixture, I browsed around on the website and couldn't find them. If they are not any idea of when they are going to be available? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 It should be very soon. We have been tied up with other things that they became a slightly lower priority. I'm hoping no more than two weeks. Link to comment
Arkayology Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Very cool. I can't wait to see some pics of what it looks like lighting a tank... hint, hint... Link to comment
bwidner Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 It should be very soon. We have been tied up with other things that they became a slightly lower priority. I'm hoping no more than two weeks. Awesome, that should line up right about the time I have enough time to get the ball rolling on the swap. On a side note, anything special I need to know to take the rim off a nanocube? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 The trim, or the hood? Link to comment
bwidner Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 The trim, or the hood? The trim, I would assume not much, I know there are directions on how to remove the hood. Also how many of the cree leds would you reccommend for a 28g with the fixture hanging a foot or two over the tank? I was thinking somewhere 15-18 myself but have never had led's prior. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 I know some people have done it, but I'm not going to recommend taking the trim off those tanks. The bent corners and bow front really reduce the strength of the glass, and taking the trim off adds stress back onto the glass. As for an LED setup, 16-18 should work. 16 LEDs in a 4x4 pattern would probably work quite nicely. Link to comment
bwidner Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Makes perfect sense with the trim, please post when that heat sink is available, damn then new LFS that opened and had amazing SPS, thats all it took to make me have to keep them when the whole plan of the tank was to keep it LPS/softies. Link to comment
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