A little experiment ;)

[pumarjr]

Evil, can you make one of those for a 36" tank? If so, I'll buy it.

[jackjackjack]

do you have any specs on the 150w drivers? Dimensions etc?

[sammy113]

this is a very sexy fixture. I'd love to mess with those big LEDs and drivers hopefully they will be available when my new lamp is ready to be built

[Machupicchu]

Dude, Evil, i wanna see one with another bridgelux in the center, it would fit perfect.

[redfishsc]

These drivers really are nice. Anyone that has dealt with setting up the Meanwell ELN series will love these, even though they are a tad more expensive. I've been testing these drivers in various forms for the last 6 months, and I will never touch another Meanwell driver again if I don't have to. They really are that good. This is the first driver that I have seen that has a mean time before failure greater than the LEDs that it's driving. For example, most LEDs have a MTBF/L70 lifetime of 50,000 hours. These drivers have a MTBF of 460,000 hours at 25C.

 

 

I'm definitely looking forward to this, I may use one of the smaller ones on an upcoming tank build. I have two spare ELNs laying here unused right now but I may buy one of your smaller ones instead.

 

 

Even if your drivers are a bit more costly, there's no 9-10v power supply we have to provide; it's included.

 

 

Will you guys plan on carrying 10K pots to go with these? That, and some wire/solder are really about the only thing we really need to have to build an array with. I realize those aren't high profit items, esp. the wire, but man, one stop shopping would be sweet. I hate having to go to 3 different places and paying shipping 3X just to get a few things I can't find locally.

[evilc66]

Yeah, we will most likely be carrying pots to go with the drivers. They need 20K pots to get full range (I'm running 10Ks, as that's all RS have, and I get about 60% of the dimming range). Our new driver boxes will be using slide pots. The driver boxes will be pre-assembled and come in a variety of different configurations. That should be nice for those that want some that good looking and professional for thier DIY build. Don't ask for prices and options, as I don't know what they are just yet

[Deleted User 6]

go update your barracuda thread, lol.

[jbfrompa]

I am looking into lighting a 125g 72x18x24 with led. I was thinking about using 9 of your par38 bulbs to do this but I have been thinking would this be a better option for me? If I went with a set up like this I would not need and t5s to do a dawn/dusk. I could just cut off the whites and leave the blues on. Do you think this would be a better option for me. The tank will be at least a year out so I am in no rush for you to start selling them. Just trying to get all my plans together.

[evilc66]

go update your barracuda thread, lol.

As soon as it stops misbehaving, I'll update it. It's betting close, but it's taken forever to stabilize. I have a water change to do tonight, and then maybe some updates.

 

I am looking into lighting a 125g 72x18x24 with led. I was thinking about using 9 of your par38 bulbs to do this but I have been thinking would this be a better option for me? If I went with a set up like this I would not need and t5s to do a dawn/dusk. I could just cut off the whites and leave the blues on. Do you think this would be a better option for me. The tank will be at least a year out so I am in no rush for you to start selling them. Just trying to get all my plans together.

It's an option. Is it better than using PAR38s? Not necessarily. Just different. Now, keep in mind that what I built is just an example of what can be done, and isn't prctical for most people. The heatsink on the other hand, is going to be a production item, and will give you options for your tank. It's a DIY fixture, so it's up to you to set up the LED array.

[jbfrompa]

It's an option. Is it better than using PAR38s? Not necessarily. Just different. Now, keep in mind that what I built is just an example of what can be done, and isn't prctical for most people. The heatsink on the other hand, is going to be a production item, and will give you options for your tank. It's a DIY fixture, so it's up to you to set up the LED array.

 

I was thinking that someting like this might give me more spread that the par38s. Insted of having the group of LEDs in a square I think I would only need them in one line down the tank. Either 7 or 9 groupings depending on how the spread is for the width and how bad spot lighting might be. Based on what I read here I think I would need 4 of your new drivers. 2 for the whites and 2 for the blues. I think that the headsink might be my biggest issue because I would need a very long rectangle one or use 3 1.5 ft sections. I am very new in the LED world so as far this goes I am not reall sure what I need. I just know I am going to do my next tank in LED just dont know how yet.

[evilc66]

Again, ignore what I built, but pay attention to what I used to build it. The heatsink won't change in size once it hits retail, and there won't be different sizes. If you need to cover more area, add more of these heatsinks, just like you would with any MH pendant, or any other modular LED setup, like the AI Sol series.

 

Or, don't use this heatsink setup at all, and build larger arrays. It's all up to you. This fixture was designed to be a flexible platform for DIYers to build on, and have something that looks decent. Too many of you are thinking that the entire fixture that I built, will be a commercial product. It was just a "what if" based around a product that we are going to sell.

[jbfrompa]

Again, ignore what I built, but pay attention to what I used to build it. The heatsink won't change in size once it hits retail, and there won't be different sizes. If you need to cover more area, add more of these heatsinks, just like you would with any MH pendant, or any other modular LED setup, like the AI Sol series.

 

Or, don't use this heatsink setup at all, and build larger arrays. It's all up to you. This fixture was designed to be a flexible platform for DIYers to build on, and have something that looks decent. Too many of you are thinking that the entire fixture that I built, will be a commercial product. It was just a "what if" based around a product that we are going to sell.

 

I was not trying to imply that I would be trying to use your exact design. What got me thinking is exactly what I think you were trying to do. I am not so much looking to use the heatsink (but if after more research I would not be apose to it.) but more of the LED configuration with the blues and the whites. My main concern with that is would using 1 grouping cover an 18" circle at around 30" and have the same or more par than the PAR38s. Or would I need to put the groups in two rows to get the coverage I am looking for. Sorry for and confusion in my previous post but I really suck trying to express what I am thinking while typing. I suck at english.

[Machupicchu]

Is the N3500 overkill for a 20 gallon cube?

 

Would you have an idea on how many Royal Blues and What types would i need to counter the N3500?

[evilc66]

Considering it's almost 3 times the lumen count, you would need 3 times the number of royal blue LEDs. Overkill? Most certainly, from an output, cost, and complexity standpoint.

[cloons411]

I have been looking at options for a 25"X25"X12" cube. I love this diy kit, and like the bridgelux idea. What kind of led array would you go with for lighting? I am looking to keep anything as for corals.

[Machupicchu]

twas what i thought, so the reflector on digikey for the n1203 says 25 degrees, is this really a 25 degree output angle or is it different for reflectors compared to lenses?

 

Also it looks like i can run 1 bridgelux 1203 on a meanwell 30-48? is this correct, would i need to make any adjustment to the srv1?

 

Since these LEDs put out alot more light how much more heat is generated? im thinking about doing a 1/4 aluminum plate with a small heatsink directly above the bridgelux with a fan blowing on?away? from that.

 

And heres the noob question, i know i cant run 9 xre's off of one 30-48 so what adjustment would i need to make to the srv1 on the 60-48? Or is there a more economical route as far as royal blue?

 

Thanks in advance, chris

[adambrum]

Very impressive build there.

 

Im liking the use of the big emitters, not quite as efficent as the usual stuff but much easier to work with.

 

Im just about to start playing with some 10w satistronics 455s now you have me thinking of 3 of those with a bridgelux in the middle.

 

Any ideas of what sort of par and spread result you would get from your with just a single cell.

[evilc66]

twas what i thought, so the reflector on digikey for the n1203 says 25 degrees, is this really a 25 degree output angle or is it different for reflectors compared to lenses?

They really are 50 degree reflectors. Ledil, for whatever reason, only lists the half angle, which is kind of against the grain with the rest of the industry.

 

Also it looks like i can run 1 bridgelux 1203 on a meanwell 30-48? is this correct, would i need to make any adjustment to the srv1?

You would probably be better off using the ELN-30-27. The ELN-30-48 will work also, but has much lower maximum current. The ELN-30-27 has a max current of 1.12A, which is better suited for the larger emitter.

 

Since these LEDs put out alot more light how much more heat is generated? im thinking about doing a 1/4 aluminum plate with a small heatsink directly above the bridgelux with a fan blowing on?away? from that.

I wouldn't advise it. These LEDs require some serious heatsinking. At 1A, these are running at about 18W. This is not the same as running 18W of XR-Es, or similar. You are putting the same amount of heat in a much smaller area, and it needs some serious surface area. If you want to use 1/4" plate, you should use a decent PC heatsink directly over it to handle the heat. Fans should always blow onto the heatsink for the best results.

 

And heres the noob question, i know i cant run 9 xre's off of one 30-48 so what adjustment would i need to make to the srv1 on the 60-48? Or is there a more economical route as far as royal blue?

 

Thanks in advance, chris

Why can't you use 9 XR-Es on a 30-48? It's within the voltage range for the driver. The current is lower than the 60-48 though.

 

 

Very impressive build there.

 

Im liking the use of the big emitters, not quite as efficent as the usual stuff but much easier to work with.

 

Im just about to start playing with some 10w satistronics 455s now you have me thinking of 3 of those with a bridgelux in the middle.

 

Any ideas of what sort of par and spread result you would get from your with just a single cell.

Not entirely sure what the performance would be like for a single "cell". I might take some measurements later today.

[jbfrompa]

I would love to know what the par and spread is for a single cell. That would help a lot in planning my build.

[blasterman]

Im just about to start playing with some 10w satistronics 455s now you have me thinking of 3 of those with a bridgelux in the middle.

 

You'll need at least 4 of the Satistronics...possibly 5 to keep up color wise. This assumes everything driven at an amp.

[Machupicchu]

Thanks for the info man,

 

So correct me if im wrong, In order to run one of the "cells" with one BL N1203 and 9 XRE-RB i could use a 30-27 to run the Bridgelux without any adjustment because the eln drivers are variable voltage and the minimum voltage is 3v. (couldnt i even use a 30-24?)

 

And either a 30-48 for the 9 blues with a max current of .68 amps (is this enough to combat the white?)

or a 60-48 (i would most likely do 12 blues) with the normal svr2 adjustment <1000mA

[evilc66]

Thanks for the info man,

 

So correct me if im wrong, In order to run one of the "cells" with one BL N1203 and 9 XRE-RB i could use a 30-27 to run the Bridgelux without any adjustment because the eln drivers are variable voltage and the minimum voltage is 3v. (couldnt i even use a 30-24?)

 

You could use a Buckpuck if you wanted. As long as it can handle an 18v LED at the current you want, it doesn't matter the driver. The 30-27 will still need adjustment. All ELN drivers need SVR2 adjusted to put the current where you want it. It has nothing to do with voltage.

 

And either a 30-48 for the 9 blues with a max current of .68 amps (is this enough to combat the white?)

or a 60-48 (i would most likely do 12 blues) with the normal svr2 adjustment <1000mA

I'd go with an ELN-60-48D. You need the extra current to overpower the Bridgelux.

[Machupicchu]

Thanks man, is there a dimmable buckpuck?

 

Also checking out these thomas drivers, specifically the 40-105, is there a current adjustment on these to bring the max down to 1000mA? Or would i need to settle with the 40-70

[evilc66]

Of course there is. 3023-D-E-1000

[OneDayMatt]

I have been looking at options for a 25"X25"X12" cube. I love this diy kit, and like the bridgelux idea. What kind of led array would you go with for lighting? I am looking to keep anything as for corals.

Not a cube. Cool tank size. Still not a cube.