plainrt Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 just watching where this goes. Link to comment
h3llphyre Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 Here is a look at the heatsink: How the... Is it a slim fan, so the air goes out sideways? I don't understand how this works. Link to comment
DaveFason Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Are these the reflectors? http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...amp;x=0&y=0 -Dave Link to comment
redfishsc Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Loving this. I love the concept of those nice Bridgelux flanked by the Cree's. I was wondering if something similar could be done once Cree XML's get some optics (if ever) that fit our needs, as well as something for that Satistronics 10w 455 blue. I could easily see a 2:1 (blue:white) on such an array hit some NASTY PAR numbers. Link to comment
redfishsc Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Oh-- and are the whites/blues dimmable separately? Or are they distributed equally on each driver? Link to comment
Reefgeek Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Are the drivers PWM controlled? Link to comment
Pyrocide Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Question: Other than the fact that this thing could quite possibly be used for a light house, why would you need 1500 PAR at 18"? On my tank, being 24" H, I could conceivably grow SPS in the sand, as that would be just about all i could do with that intensity, That would, I would think, kill because its TOO much light. Great looking fixture though, really like the heatsink. I look forward to seeing real tank PAR numbers, perhaps on different tank sizes as well. I just built my fixture but wouldn't mind selling it to buy this if the numbers fit and the other half doesn't know what I am doing. Link to comment
Mustang Boy Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 Question: Other than the fact that this thing could quite possibly be used for a light house, why would you need 1500 PAR at 18"? On my tank, being 24" H, I could conceivably grow SPS in the sand, as that would be just about all i could do with that intensity, That would, I would think, kill because its TOO much light. if i understand evil's posts correctly he built this as a test for the new heatsink to see exactly how much it could take and still be efficient(not get hot) and the insane PAR is just a byproduct of exactly how well designed this heatsink really is. this could also more than likely be used on larger tanks than our nanos and still be able to hang the fixture fairly high above the tank, think 2ft above the top of the tank that way you could get an even more rimless look with a cube or rimless style tank. Link to comment
Sahin Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Evil, this is rather sweet. The unit has a very nice modern look to it. And the design of the heatsink fins is very clever indeed. I wish I had access to a CNC machine here in the UK...man I would be making lots of LED fixtures and selling them! I know just by looking at that heatsink fan combo that it will draw the heat off the LED's quite well. Link to comment
phi delt reefer Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 if i understand evil's posts correctly he built this as a test for the new heatsink to see exactly how much it could take and still be efficient(not get hot) and the insane PAR is just a byproduct of exactly how well designed this heatsink really is. this could also more than likely be used on larger tanks than our nanos and still be able to hang the fixture fairly high above the tank, think 2ft above the top of the tank that way you could get an even more rimless look with a cube or rimless style tank. AND the par measurement is through the AIR, not through water. Go barebottom and the light can serve double duty for your sump's frag section! Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 Great when will it be available? How much would this setup cost? The DIY LED Fixture and the drivers will be available within the next few weeks. The heatsinks are coming off the mill like clockwork, and drivers are on the way to us. Keep checking our sponsor forum for updates. Sounds like around 800 bucks. Probably a bit more. Well, based on the street price that we are going with on our products, and the current street price on other parts, it comes out to just over $700. Like I mentioned before, this isn't a practical setup for 99% of us. just watching where this goes. Please do How the... Is it a slim fan, so the air goes out sideways? I don't understand how this works. It's an 80x15mm fan. The way the heatsink is designed, the fan sits on pins (machined on the heatsink fin, so they don't block airflow), and is elevated slightly off the heatsink base. The area under it is also relief cut to smooth the airflow, and give more volume under the fan to reduce turbulence. The top cover is also relief cut for the fan, and the cover pinches the fan in place. No need for screws or uneven frame loading. It's a pretty slick design if I do say so myself Are these the reflectors? http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch...amp;x=0&y=0 -Dave Yes, but they have almost doubled in price since I bought them. I got them for $2.88 early in December. Loving this. I love the concept of those nice Bridgelux flanked by the Cree's. I was wondering if something similar could be done once Cree XML's get some optics (if ever) that fit our needs, as well as something for that Satistronics 10w 455 blue. I could easily see a 2:1 (blue:white) on such an array hit some NASTY PAR numbers. Sure. Why not. Color won't be that great just yet with the cool tints on the current XM-Ls, but I'm sure that will improve soon. Oh-- and are the whites/blues dimmable separately? Or are they distributed equally on each driver? Really? Did you have to ask that? Each color is on a seperate driver. You have no idea how nice it is to only have to deal with 2 drivers. Are the drivers PWM controlled? No. At this time, these drivers can only be driven off a 1-10v signal. Now, that can be from it's own internal reference voltage (read: no need for additional power supplies!), or from an external source, like a microcontroller. PWM was something that TRP was working on on a few of their drivers, but I'm not sure if it has been implemented on any production drivers yet. Evil, this is rather sweet. The unit has a very nice modern look to it. And the design of the heatsink fins is very clever indeed. I wish I had access to a CNC machine here in the UK...man I would be making lots of LED fixtures and selling them! I know just by looking at that heatsink fan combo that it will draw the heat off the LED's quite well. Thanks. I wouldn't be able to bring half the products I've designed to market if it wasn't for Chris and his wonderful CNC mill. That new Haas is just soooo awesome. When I went out to visit during Reef-a-Palooza a few months back (strangely enough, that was when the initial concept for this was designed and machined), I was literally staring in wonderment, watching the chips fly. It's hypnotic, and wonderfully rewarding watching something you designed being machined. Boy, can that machine thow chips! AND the par measurement is through the AIR, not through water. Go barebottom and the light can serve double duty for your sump's frag section! Beeker is already doing that with his PAR38 lit Marineland DD tank! I'll be trying to get in water PAR measurements soon. I have to find a suitable test source though. I think my 40B might boil if I leave it over it for too long I'll get my LFS to be the guinea pig on this one. They have a nice 1000g acrylic tank that I may be able to hang it over. Link to comment
kthehun89 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 They have a nice 1000g acrylic tank that I may be able to hang it over. Evil, this is NANO-reef, not 1000g show tank forum Are we gonna see these over nanos? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 The DIY LED Fixture? I certainly hope so. I might tear this one apart after I'm all done with it and make something a little more practical. Link to comment
blasterman Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Like I mentioned before, this isn't a practical setup for 99% of us. Not so fast there. The cool thing about this set-up is it's a modular or 'cellular' design, and you can scale up or down accordingly. Also, you don't need to have all four light 'cells' packed together. You could spread them out side by side if you had a longer tank and use a longer sink, or, knock down to two 'cells' for a smaller tank. For a lower hood just take the optics off. There's a lot of flexibility here, and the cost per 'cell' isn't that high. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Well, obviously I can change the arrangement on the heatsink to accomodate different tanks (), but what I was refering to was that this particular setup was something that 99% of us wouldn't use. With 300 PAR at 48", this kind of setup would be limited to very deep tanks. The 803's might be a little more practical than the 1203's for most applications, and would require fewer blues to balance out. But, you are right. This is certain modular. The fixture was designed with that in mind. I had this one drilled for a 5x5 array, but the production ones will be blank, with options for drill patterns, if you don't want to use thermal pads. Link to comment
janos1 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Hi to all.Just think about modular system,because for me one would not be enough. My tank is 36x36x30.So modular would be better,and you can adjust the hight any time.(beautiful design) Link to comment
redfishsc Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Evil, Will these drivers you listed in this thread, that provide their own 0-10v reference voltage, be useable on a Reek Keeper ALC module? I'm helping a buddy locally that wants to use them eventually on one. Seems to me like you'd just "cap off" the + from the driver's own 10v output, and splice in the RKL signal. Right? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 Right. There are three wires that come out of the driver for dimming. Output (10v), Input (0-10v), and Ground. For manual control, all three are connect to the pot. For connection to a controller, just connect Input and Ground to the appropriate terminals on the ALC. Link to comment
Urchinhead Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Something to think about... The PAR levels in the ocean are much greater than 300... So its not unreasonable to shoot for 300 at 48"... Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 True, but those PAR levels are not common in the majority of our tanks. This kind of PAR is reserved for sps only tanks, or tanks that are exceptionally deep. The problem with high PAR levels is that you have to have proportionally high flow rates, which is something that is typically reserved for very high end sps setups. Link to comment
TankRazr Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 This thread made my day! I guess I'm one of the 1% that could use something like this. I've been looking at the ecoxotic 50w cannons and wasn't exactly sold on them. Incidently anyone know who's led is in their unit? This Thomas Research driver looks like just the thing I've been looking for. A few questions...Sorry I"m not an EE It appears as though you could run 6 of the bridgelux 18w off a single driver, is this correct? With perhaps a little juice left over to add in some UV LEDS to this circuit, no? Could one run 40 of the 3w Crees? I saw mention of "32 in series", I'm wondering if it is limited to 32 for some reason? Thanks Link to comment
Meximazing Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I'm really excited about these drivers. Did you say they would be $135 per driver? Link to comment
jackjackjack Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 those drivers look the business! How long until they're available? More importantly, will you be shipping them to Australia? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 This thread made my day! I guess I'm one of the 1% that could use something like this. I've been looking at the ecoxotic 50w cannons and wasn't exactly sold on them. Incidently anyone know who's led is in their unit? This Thomas Research driver looks like just the thing I've been looking for. A few questions...Sorry I"m not an EE It appears as though you could run 6 of the bridgelux 18w off a single driver, is this correct? With perhaps a little juice left over to add in some UV LEDS to this circuit, no? Could one run 40 of the 3w Crees? I saw mention of "32 in series", I'm wondering if it is limited to 32 for some reason? Thanks The 120W drivers with a 1050mA output have a max output voltage of 114v. Divide that any way you want between any LED. That would let you run up to 6 1200 series Bridgelux LEDs, or 32 XR-E/XP-E's, or 34 XP-Gs. If you want to run 40 LEDs, you would have to either go up to the 150W version and run at the same current, or drop the current to 700mA on the 120W driver (up to 171v output). I'm really excited about these drivers. Did you say they would be $135 per driver? We haven't solidified the price just yet, but it should be close to $135. We will be carrying many more drivers with different voltage and current ranges. All feature the same benefits though. those drivers look the business! How long until they're available? More importantly, will you be shipping them to Australia? We have some of the smaller drivers (40W) on the way, and will be increasing our selection all the time. The larger drivers may be special order only, depending on demand. We have access to everything TRP has to offer though. Shipping to the land of Oz is no problem. These drivers really are nice. Anyone that has dealt with setting up the Meanwell ELN series will love these, even though they are a tad more expensive. I've been testing these drivers in various forms for the last 6 months, and I will never touch another Meanwell driver again if I don't have to. They really are that good. This is the first driver that I have seen that has a mean time before failure greater than the LEDs that it's driving. For example, most LEDs have a MTBF/L70 lifetime of 50,000 hours. These drivers have a MTBF of 460,000 hours at 25C. Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I love this. Better than a photon cannon. I forgot where I saw it, (maybe buried in the LED aesthetics thread) but I saw a guy who had a large tank where the light hung way over the top of the tank. You could barely see the light, but it made for an amazing rimless look. I think this light is perfect for something like that. 60 gallon rimless SPS cube, one of these lights hung well overhead and three sides viewable? Sounds like a downright killer display.... Link to comment
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