Phixion Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 AZ to the rescue! I recall Charlie @ RAP telling me the housings have an 80psi rating... I too thought it was higher, around 100 at least... I'll definitely test the pressure first before connecting my system to that water line. I'm wondering though if the actual limiting factor is the seals themself rather than the actual plastic housing... Also, when using a hose bib adaptor, is it bad to have it connected to one of those anti-siphon things? When my house was build, ALL hose bibs had those attached, and the builders CUT the heads off them so they can't be easily removed... Kind of annoying, at least on the one my RO/DI is connected to... Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 O ring seals are used in high pressure hydraulics and can stand much higher pressures than the plastic housings. I think for any water related product to gain the UPC and ANSI ratings in the US they must meet the 125 psi working pressure rating, at least in the municipal water industry that is true. All vendors are going to be conservative to protect their warranties no matter who they are if they are smart. Working for an engineering firm, I find our engineers to be ultra conservative when it comes to things like that. Operators and Engineers don't always see eye to eye but we operators can always fix what they screw up in the design . I get an give a lot of grief about that. Hose bib vacuum breakers are a PITA, they burp every time you shut the hose or device off etc. My house had them on every faucet except the cold water line to the washing machine. I ended up putting in a 1" backflow assembly and running seperate lines so the inside water is protected from my landscape irrigation. It usually wipes the threads off to unscrew the vacuum breaker but ypu could replace a faucet easily if its threaded and not sweated. You can als odrill and use an easy out on the brken off screw. I don't condone this since it is a possible source of cross connection after that. You will also not many vendors sell non approved, non airgap faucets with their drinking water kits which do not meet plumbing codes or msot city codes. That air gap is theer for a reason as well as the air gap on the waste saddle which protects you from getting raw sewage back into a membrane in the event of a backup. Its all for a reason as much as we hate it. Link to comment
Phixion Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I know about the engineer vs. operator stuff pretty well from where I work at, and I agree with you there. When I got the house, the customer service rep for the builder company told me if I didn't like the vacuum break, I could use a hacksaw to slot it the holding screw, and remove it. I figure they are on for a reason though and probably there by code with my luck... =/ They are only attached to any outside hose bibs, not to anything inside fortunately. My irrigation is a seperate line (though sharing the same meter, so off the same main service) which is kinda nice. I'm not planning to put a vacuum break on the faucet I bought that I plan to attach the RO/DI to as I don't see a point in having one on there for that, and I won't be using that new bib for anything else anyways. Link to comment
MedicBMC Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Great info on this thread....I'm about to pull the trigger on a unit myself, but thought I would share some info first on some deals I found. Spectrapure RO/DI ProPlus 90gpd units are on sale for 149.99 on marine depot and petstore.com I think I'm going to get mine from petstore because there is free shipping over $75 Link to comment
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