SethSPST Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Would this power supply work for a 6 cree white/ 6 cree roayl blue fixture with 1 700ma buckpuck and 1 1000ma buckbuck? http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=17435+PS Link to comment
Waterproof Posted April 1, 2009 Author Share Posted April 1, 2009 tks evil I recommend going with 2 1000mA drivers, assuming you're getting the ones w/ potentiometers. They are the same price. As I've said in previous posts, I wish I had bought both 1000mA drivers. With the potentiometers, you can dim the lights or dial in whatever color you want. In either case, the power supply would work. Link to comment
SethSPST Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 I thought for cree white xr-e q5's I would want to run a 1000ma buckpuck, and a 700ma buckpuck for the royal blue? Both with pots. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 There is nothing wrong with running the royals at 1000mA. The returns you get from the increased current is not as great as the cool whites, but it's an increase none the less. The reason you saw many people running the royals at 700mA is because possibly of the UV LEDs that may have been run with them. They don't like being run above 700mA. Link to comment
SethSPST Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Waterproof, your running a 1000ma buckpuck for your whites and a 700ma buckpuck for your blues? Did you change out your power supply, because I noticed it's only 1500ma, or am I missing something? Link to comment
Waterproof Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Waterproof, your running a 1000ma buckpuck for your whites and a 700ma buckpuck for your blues? Did you change out your power supply, because I noticed it's only 1500ma, or am I missing something? I originally started w/ two 700mA buckpucks and a 1500mA power supply. I wanted to compare the output of a 1000mA and a 700mA, so I bought an additional driver. When I upgraded to the 1000mA buckpuck, I switched out my power supply to a 24v 5A model. I wish I had just bought 1000mA drivers to begin with. At some point, I may switch out the other 700mA driver for a 1000mA driver. As for now, however, the color is good, and there is plenty of light for my inhabitants. Link to comment
SethSPST Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 did you take par readings with the dual 700ma buckpucks? Link to comment
Waterproof Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 did you take par readings with the dual 700ma buckpucks? No. At the beginning of post #24, I mention that I used one 700mA and one 1000mA driver for the PAR readings. Things would look even better with dual 1000mA drivers. Link to comment
Enzo0000 Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 OK, the buckpuck has a total of 6 wires. Two go to the potentiometer, which will already be connected. This leaves 4 wires. Two wires are connected to the +/- of your power supply. The remaining two wires go to the +/- of your LEDs. You are correct about about my wires...two red wires (+/-) for the blues and two black wires (+/-) for the whites. Here's a wiring diagram: Is this wiring in Series or Parallel? what should I wire my set-up as? here's the items i'm using: 24vdc PS with 2.3Amps 5 Cree XR-E Royal Blue for a Wired BuckPuck 700mA External Dimming Control w/ Potentiometer 4 Cree XR-E Q5 White for a Wired BuckPuck 1000mA External Dimming Control w/ Potentiometer and 2 40mm fans that will be wired in series HMMM..the picture didnt load from your quote...its the wiring diagram from post #21 of this thread Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 The LEDs are wired in series to the drivers. The drivers are wired in parallel to the power supply. Link to comment
dandestroy Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Nice tread, very informative! Do you guys think I could get away with 5 x CREE XR-E cool white 1000ma without a fan? would it make a big difference heat wise if using the 700? oh and I'm trying to make sense of the Chromacity region??? I'm aiming for 8k and if I read these graph and table right, the 00D01 for example, is the only in its category that can target the 8K region, but cover a wider range, so the final output spectrum is not really 8K at all? So should I go with something more tight like 4 x 00D02 and 1 blue? If I do go with 4 white (1000ma) and 1 blue (700ma), with the blue on its own buckpuck, (so buckpuck in parallel but LED in series)... if I'm getting this right I need the following power supply specs: 4x 3.7 v LED + 2C 1000ma buckpuck = 16.8 V 1x 3.5 v LED + 2V 700ma buckpuck = 5.5 V since buckpuck are connected in parallel I need one power supply of 16.8 V at 1700ma minimum specs to run this setup? thanks Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Well, you won't have that much flexibility in chosing your tint bin, as most resellers only get what is most common. For cool whites, it's usually the WG bin. Blues will be a crap shoot. Won't make a ton of difference on the blues anyway. I would use two blues just in case to get you to your 8k target (this is for a planted tank btw). With the dimmable drivers, you can adjust the color to suit you. Overbudget on your power supply. You will be able to use anywhere up to a 32v power supply, but 24v is more common, and will let you add more LEDs if you need (up to six). Also, get more current. For two drivers totalling 1.7A, I would be looking for at least a 2A power supply. Link to comment
dandestroy Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 I have finally decided to go with 4 Cree XR-E cool white, and 2 Cree XR-E blue, with 2x 700ma buckpuk (hoping that 700 ma instead of 1000ma will help to lower heat). I'm planning to run this on a passive heat sink (7'' x 5.375'' form heatsinkusa). my concern is heat and picking up the right power supply... So I need something above 16 volts, 1.5 A (I'm lost in the watts selection? Do I just add the watts of all the component of the circuit?... do watts matters?) so if you have any link to the Power supply that I need please feed them to me! Here is what I'm thinking: http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=17426+PS If I see that I get to much heat, I will probably hook a Silenx fan (IXP-34-08) if required... So I guess this power supply would also leave me some room for this, (I guess I would a resistor to drop the voltage to the fan range 8 to 14 volts.)... ok enough hijacking! Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Why not get this power supply http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=16854+PS Same price, but lots more headroom for LEDs. With only 6 LEDs on that size heatsink, you should have no trouble at all running passive. I run double that number of LEDs on a smaller heatsink passive. Link to comment
dandestroy Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 I would like to keep size of the setup to a minimum, so smaller the power supply the better. Glad to hear that it will run passively! this was my main concern, so I guess I can also reduce the size of the heat sink a bit. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 The power supply is only a little bigger physically, and will be hidden away somewhere else anyway. The power supply you linked to is right at the limit of its capability. Going with the 6.5A unit will let it run cooler (the power supply) than pushing the other power supply to it's limits. Like I mentioned before, it will let you expand later if need be without having to buy a different power supply. Link to comment
muratbey Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Hello friends, I came to Turkey between the question: 300 lt tank lamp led to the need? Sorry for my English. thanks. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 You are going to need to give more information, like tank dimensions, and what you plan on keeping. Link to comment
muratbey Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 You are going to need to give more information, like tank dimensions, and what you plan on keeping. 90X50X50 tank system mhX1 + t5X2 mhX1 + t5X2 = LED? Thank you .. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 What size MH lamps were you planning on using? For a tank of that depth, 250W would be typical, but thats not to say you can't run something different. This is all to get an idea as to how to set up the array. Link to comment
muratbey Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 What size MH lamps were you planning on using? For a tank of that depth, 250W would be typical, but thats not to say you can't run something different. This is all to get an idea as to how to set up the array. hallo mh: 150 W t5: 38wX2 I want you I want to use these lights LED equivalent. thanks. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 You are going to be looking at an array of about 75 LEDs (15x5) with 60 degree optics running on drivers that will do 1000mA. It's going to be expensive. Link to comment
rvadub Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Nevermind. Ordering the heat sick today. Such a great idea. Since my ballast is out on one of the lights on my bc29, time to try something new. Being a tech nerd this is a dream come true. Thanks and have you set up a donate or buy a frag fund for the time you guys have spent on this project? Link to comment
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