Waterproof Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Any suggestions would be great but just trying to get involved in this awesome topic. I think what evil6cc said would work fine. However, I recommend going strictly with LEDs. LEDs present many advantages over PCs, one of which is the extremely long lifetime (50,000 hrs). I like the fact that I'll never (relatively speaking) have to replace my LEDs, whereas PCs need to be replaced every 9 months. Also, the LEDs put out a very clean light that you'll probably really like. Here's a post I did about the benefits of LEDs over PCs. This was my way of justifying the upfront costs of LEDs. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...t&p=2038310 So, you're planning to put ~18 LEDs in the tank along w/ the heatsink. You could increase your 18-LED array to about 24-28 LEDs w/ 60-deg optics and get rid of the PCs all together. Throw these on a larger heatsink (maybe 16"x14" - depending on what would fit) and you're done. The incremental cost would be fairly minor (~$100-$130). This would pay for itself in a couple years. Link to comment
mdavis203 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I think it'll be too thick to go over the heatsink. I see 2 options...1) mount it to either side of the heatsink; 2) grind down the plastic mounting pegs in the hood a bit before mounting the heatsink. This would make the heatsink sit closer to the plastic (black, not acrylic) hood. Then you might have enough room. That's a pretty pricey moonlight. It might be overkill for the BC-14. Let me know what you think once it's installed. You're probably right about the moonlight. I should have done more research before ordering it. The reason I chose it was that it was the one offered as an option on Nano-tuners' 3.24 upgrade. I knew I wanted to upgrade the moonlights when I did the LED project, because I'm not crazy about the coverage of the stock lunars. Maybe I can make the R2 fit. I'll definitely post pics once I come up with a solution. I hope I'm able to grind down the posts and make it fit on the heat sink, since this would make fur a much cleaner build. How much did you have to grind the posts down for the build you did? I'm not sure what size my project box is. I'll measure it and let you know. It's the smallest you can go and still get everything to fit. Did you mount your project box in the hood somewhere, or is it in the stand? Link to comment
Waterproof Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 How much did you have to grind the posts down for the build you did? Did you mount your project box in the hood somewhere, or is it in the stand? I didn't have to grind down the mounting posts at all. I removed about 1/2" from 2 other posts that were interfering with placement of the heatsink, near the fan area. I put my project box in the cabinet. I remember seeing one guy that mounted his drivers directly in the hood with the potentiometers sticking out the top. This semed like a decent idea as well. Link to comment
mdavis203 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I didn't have to grind down the mounting posts at all. I removed about 1/2" from 2 other posts that were interfering with placement of the heatsink, near the fan area. Oh, OK. I misunderstood your original post. Thanks for the clarification! I put my project box in the cabinet. I remember seeing one guy that mounted his drivers directly in the hood with the potentiometers sticking out the top. This semed like a decent idea as well. That's something to ponder. When I pull the hood and get the extra fans in there, I'll see what room I have left. Do the buckpucks get hot while operating? If so, that would be a compelling reason not to mount them in the hood. Link to comment
jsmi2024 Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 good advise guys i really appreciate it i found a great deal on ebay for a large amount of the cool white cree xr-e q5's so im gonna go with putting 28 total just gotta get the royal blue's. Also do you guys know of a cheaper place to get the buckpuck's then led supply by any chance. Also kind of a stupid question but like I said in my last post I'm studying abroad right now and just tryin to get all my stuff ready for when i get back, but does anyone know the dimensions of the interior of the splash guard on the jbj 24 or what is the biggest any of you have put in there with room for some fans still. O sorry i forgot where can you get those 60deg optics i cant find them anywhere. Link to comment
mdavis203 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 I think it'll be too thick to go over the heatsink. I see 2 options...1) mount it to either side of the heatsink; 2) grind down the plastic mounting pegs in the hood a bit before mounting the heatsink. This would make the heatsink sit closer to the plastic (black, not acrylic) hood. Then you might have enough room. That's a pretty pricey moonlight. It might be overkill for the BC-14. Let me know what you think once it's installed. Yeah, it just arrived today. It's about 3/4" thick. I don't think it'll fit. It looked much thinner from the pic. I may have to look at other options for moonlighting. What did you do, WP? I'd like good moonlighting, as that is really my favorite time to watch a tank. Link to comment
deepdvnarq Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Yeah, it just arrived today. It's about 3/4" thick. I don't think it'll fit. It looked much thinner from the pic. I may have to look at other options for moonlighting. What did you do, WP? I'd like good moonlighting, as that is really my favorite time to watch a tank. you can try this one from measure explorer. If you don't want them in blue, you can always email Dong Bing and tell him exactly what you want. for the price and the waterproof package, you just cant beat it. the four LEDs are cetainly bright enough. Link to comment
Waterproof Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 Yeah, it just arrived today. It's about 3/4" thick. I don't think it'll fit. It looked much thinner from the pic. I may have to look at other options for moonlighting. What did you do, WP? I'd like good moonlighting, as that is really my favorite time to watch a tank. I went cheap until I can get a controller worked out. I had a CurrentUSA lunar light that I had planned to put in my nephew's FW tank a few month ago. The problem was I bought the unit w/o the power supply. Well, the old biocube moonlight power supply worked with it. I like my moonlight to originate on one side and then fade to black. Why? Not sure. I just like the effect. Plus, my clowns sleep on the left side of the tank, and I like to give them some dark. So, I bent a left over piece of the aluminum that I used for my mounting brackets. I then used some double-sided sticky foam pads to adhere the light to the aluminum and the aluminum to the hood. The LEDs were originally too narrow and bright. Evilc66 recommended a while ago that I grind the LEDs flat on top, so I did and it worked. This made the light more disperse and less intense. <--horrible pic! frakthem reused his stock moonlights and positioned the on either side of the heatsink. That would give you more uniform coverage. I was never much of a fan of the stock moonlights..just a bit too dim. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...t&p=2135723 Link to comment
mdavis203 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 you can try this one from measure explorer. Deep, I think that link's broken. When I drilled/tapped my heat sink, I did it so I could mount either a 12 or 11-LED array. I ended up mounting the 12-LED array, which left me with spots already drilled and tapped for three LED's in the middle row between the ones that are mounted. What do you think about mounting some lower-power royal blues there and running them off a separate power supply and driver and using those for moonlights? Link to comment
mdavis203 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 What LED's would you recommend for that? It would be awesome if it were some that I could use the same holes I've tapped to fit the Crees. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 You could get some of the dirt cheap 1W blue LEDs on Kaidomain or Deal Extreme. Doesn't have to be anything fancy. Link to comment
deepdvnarq Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Deep, I think that link's broken. measure explorer 4 " led blue wide angle what about these. i dont know what driver you would use or if it has enough lumenal output (only has 5 lumens uotput), but you need a 150mA driver and i couldn't find one ( if i read the data sheet correctly). maybe 2 to 4 spread out out the heatsink would do. more drilling and tapping! oh how fun! elara moon Link to comment
mdavis203 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 That 4" bar is similar to the R2 that I've got now. I haven't put my heat sink in the hood yet, but I'm thinking there won't be enough clearance. If I can find a way to make it fit, I'll use it. Otherwise, I'm going to go with some of those low-power LED's like you guys are talking about. Link to comment
Darklyte24 Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Very nice, Ive been away from this fourm for quite some time... but anyways, heres my setup I prob need to edit my sig. I also have a Biocube 14 heres a updated pic Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Care to elaborate on the details? Link to comment
Darklyte24 Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Im running the sundial T5HO, im planning to build a LED system soon. Link to comment
mdavis203 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Finished my LED build!! See the link in my sig for pics. Thanks, Waterproof and Evilc66. You guys rock! Link to comment
Darklyte24 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 someone correct me if im wrong, it seems that in his picture with 1 power supply and 2 buckpucks, 1 with 6 LEDs and another with 5 LEDs. Isnt this a current divider? 60% of the current to the 6 LEDs and 40% of the rest going to the 5 LEDs? That would limit the current to the real potential of the LEDs right? Link to comment
Waterproof Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 someone correct me if im wrong, it seems that in his picture with 1 power supply and 2 buckpucks, 1 with 6 LEDs and another with 5 LEDs. Isnt this a current divider? 60% of the current to the 6 LEDs and 40% of the rest going to the 5 LEDs? That would limit the current to the real potential of the LEDs right? No, I have a 5A power supply. The buckpucks are wired in parallel, not series. You add the current of each driver, so my draw is 1.7A total (1000Ma + 700Ma). Each buckpuck can draw what it's rated for. Link to comment
Darklyte24 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I see, I saw the picture of a 24 Volt 1amp plug... but now since you said you have a 5amp one thats fine. Im still trying to find some 24 Volt adapters, Frys electronics selection was crap.. im still lookiing can you help? Hmm looks like http://www.powerstream.com/12-volt.htm has some. Ordered a 24 Volt 2.5 amp for 40$ shipped Link to comment
Waterproof Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Im still trying to find some 24 Volt adapters, Frys electronics selection was crap.. im still lookiing can you help?Hmm looks like http://www.powerstream.com/12-volt.htm has some. I bought one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/Philips-TV-Electronics...%3A1%7C294%3A50 I didn't need 5A, but the price was right, and now I have room to expand in the future. There are plenty of places to find 24v DC power supplies. Link to comment
Darklyte24 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 doh... could have saved 15$.. oh well. now i gota get that stinkin Heatsink... you ordered the 9x5? Small Less than 1 Foot? Link to comment
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