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My two refracs and a hydro read way diff.


NanoReefNovice

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why sterilize a hydro?

 

 

 

Rinse after cleaning, of course, rise after sterilizing? NO! that is the last thing that should contact your equipment before the beer. So im wondering, what are you tasting after a few weeks?

 

Never said steralize. I said cleaning. So you just dip your hydro into all of your beers without cleaning it? Everything that even remotely touched a beer gets cleaned. The taste is the nastiness of not rinsing out all of you cleaning agent (when I first started and didn't think anything was left) It is not recoverable and is just a waste of a batch. I don't know if you just do extract kits but a full mash takes a while.

 

Edit: after reading my previous post again I can see why you thought steralize.

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As you said before, you use phosphoric acid, which is a sanitizer not a sterilizer. If you could sterilize your beer equipment, meaning that all organisms and bacteria is removed, then essentially you could use it anywhere you want, including your beer. Most cleaners only sanitize so they don't necessarily remove all organisms and bacteria, just most of them. I personally would not put a sanitized piece of equipment out of its normal place ie. a beer hydrometer in your tank after at one time, used in a beer.

 

I am not trying to argue with anyone. I believe kgross gave the correct answer to your original post.

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NanoReefNovice
Never said steralize. I said cleaning. So you just dip your hydro into all of your beers without cleaning it? Everything that even remotely touched a beer gets cleaned. The taste is the nastiness of not rinsing out all of you cleaning agent (when I first started and didn't think anything was left) It is not recoverable and is just a waste of a batch. I don't know if you just do extract kits but a full mash takes a while.

 

Edit: after reading my previous post again I can see why you thought steralize.

 

Im still kinda of confused at what you are getting at. But... Please dont tell me you are re-using your hydro sample :huh: Always dump your hyro sample which you measure in a graduated cylinder; that's why refracs are nice for home brewers who brew small quantities, less waste. We just rise the hydro in warm water before and after any use. Ive never done an extract batch... also there is a big distinction between hot side and cold side when it comes to brewing and cleaning/sanitizing ;)

 

As you said before, you use phosphoric acid, which is a sanitizer not a sterilizer. If you could sterilize your beer equipment, meaning that all organisms and bacteria is removed, then essentially you could use it anywhere you want, including your beer. Most cleaners only sanitize so they don't necessarily remove all organisms and bacteria, just most of them. I personally would not put a sanitized piece of equipment out of its normal place ie. a beer hydrometer in your tank after at one time, used in a beer.

 

I am not trying to argue with anyone. I believe kgross gave the correct answer to your original post.

 

OK I mis-typed my nomenclature :lol: , and yes I do understand the difference of sterile and sanity. I don't understand... a sterile piece in beer (that you throw out) = Tank death or bad beer?

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Sorry, bad choice of words. Pretty much saying that it is only sanitized and not everything is dead on it. I clean my hydro and cylinder because that is where I take my test from it. If the gravity still looks too high, I won't taste it. It would just be too bitter. Thats why I clean my hydro and cylinder instead of just rinsing.

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NanoReefNovice
I am not trying to argue with anyone. I believe kgross gave the correct answer to your original post.

+1. That was the issue i was trying to get to at towards the beginning. I know in brewing when using a refrac unfermentables and alcohol will throw off sugar measurements. I was wondering if there are any (and what they are) in Instant Ocean?

 

Answer "However, large differences in the big four ions (chloride, sulfate, sodium and magnesium) will alter the relationship between refractive index and salinity or specific gravity... " " ....if magnesium is low, the refractive index will be low, and reported salinity will be a bit low. But overall these issues result in a very small error in salinity (in terms of the precision that reef aquarists are typically concerned with, say, ± 1 ppt)"

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NanoReefNovice
If the gravity still looks too high, I won't taste it. It would just be too bitter. Thats why I clean my hydro and cylinder instead of just rinsing.

 

Please dont re-use your hydro sample (unless it is still in the kettle), just bad brewing practice. If the gravity is too high it will be sweeter and perception of bitterness will be less, so... im not sure what you ment by that? Whats does it matter to my tank if "not everything is dead" on my hydro? There are living micro-organisms on pretty much anything under 210F in this world. Were not keeping our nano's in a positive pressure clean room... are we? :lol:

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Please dont re-use your hydro sample (unless it is still in the kettle), just bad brewing practice. If the gravity is too high it will be sweeter and perception of bitterness will be less, so... im not sure what you ment by that? Whats does it matter to my tank if "not everything is dead" on my hydro? There are living micro-organisms on pretty much anything under 210F in this world. Were not keeping our nano's in a positive pressure clean room... are we? :lol:

 

 

You assume too much. To end it, my samples are never reused, the cylinder and hyrdro are after being sanitized after every sample. IPA's and hopped Barley Wines (which is all I pretty much drink now) are bitter when made because of the hops. They mellow over the time. If you are comfortable, then just check your brew and your tank at the same time and rinse until you don't feel like it anymore. Make what you want from it.

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NanoReefNovice
You assume too much. To end it, my samples are never reused, the cylinder and hyrdro are after being sanitized after every sample. IPA's and hopped Barley Wines (which is all I pretty much drink now) are bitter when made because of the hops. They mellow over the time. If you are comfortable, then just check your brew and your tank at the same time and rinse until you don't feel like it anymore. Make what you want from it.

 

Im sorry I made some assumptions. :mellow: I am generally interested in your thought process but unsure of what you are getting at. :) I may be making assumptions b/c you not answering my specific questions. So let me try the first one again:

Why sanitize a hydro?

 

Also, what did you mean when you stated that when you check the gravity of a beer and it's high you won't even taste it b/c it will be too bitter?

 

If the gravity still looks too high, I won't taste it. It would just be too bitter. Thats why I clean my hydro and cylinder instead of just rinsing.

 

If you are checking the gravity and you find is not fully attenuated ("looks too high") then it must still be in the primary fermentation. My assumptions were based on what you said above. Now you say...

 

IPA's and hopped Barley Wines (which is all I pretty much drink now) are bitter when made because of the hops. They mellow over the time.

 

Now you talking about aged beers and the degregation of Alfa Acids? Which has no application of a hydrometer. Once a beer is fully attenuated there is no purpose of checking the gravity again. Also you don't want to age IPAs b/c the alfa acids from the hops do degrade over time thus you will loose all those great flavors, aromatics and bittering. An IPA/Imperial IPA is best right off the dry hopping. :D Barlywines are a different beast. ;)

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neanderthalman
Even if I concede that point, presence doesn't indicate risk. Therefore your "too great a risk" comment is still alarmist. Plenty of people clean or soak their equipment in "chemicals" and then rinse them with no ill effects that can be directly attributed to "chemical" contamination.

 

This needed emphasis.

 

Did you know that your RO/DI filter doesn't remove oxidane? everybody panic

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This thread is still alive? This is one of the reasons that keep people away from salt water tanks, a simple Q about which refactometer to trust has exploded into this LOL. simple Q simple. simple answer...calibrate, test retest, compare and and accept the results. This is not rocket science it is reefing and like all life sciences it is NOT excat. You can take two samples of ocean water 10 feet distance from eachother and you will get some very different results. It is about relative stability not absolute exact numbers. "i never had a Ph problem until i started testing for Ph"--unknown author.

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NanoReefNovice
This needed emphasis.

 

Did you know that your RO/DI filter doesn't remove oxidane? everybody panic

 

+1

 

This thread is still alive? This is one of the reasons that keep people away from salt water tanks, a simple Q about which refactometer to trust has exploded into this LOL. simple Q simple. simple answer...calibrate, test retest, compare and and accept the results. This is not rocket science it is reefing and like all life sciences it is NOT excat. You can take two samples of ocean water 10 feet distance from eachother and you will get some very different results. It is about relative stability not absolute exact numbers. "i never had a Ph problem until i started testing for Ph"--unknown author.

 

+1

 

I like the way you guys think. :lol:

 

 

We got on just a few tangents ;)

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