LED MeanWell power supply?

[evilc66]

Don't know exactly what the current is, but it's small. In the milliamp range.

[ejmitch]

Evil,

Can you describe how the three parts for the dimming control circuit go together? Thanks!

- E

 

M317 voltage regulator, 5k ohm pot and a 680 ohm resistor to get you 1.25v to 10v adjustment. You can use a 12-32v power supply to run this, so that gives you a bit of flexibility.

[keli]

If the current is really low it might be possible to just plug a 9v battery in there, just to avoid the extra wiring of supplying a 10v line somewhere. Possibly a 9v + 1.5v in series.

 

Just throwing it out there. Might be useful for some that don't feel like getting a 10v power supply just yet or something like that.

[evilc66]

http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/LM317/

 

ignore the capacitors and you have your circuit.

[ejmitch]

Thanks! When you say "ignore the capacitors" do you mean short circuit over them or remove them and their connections entirely?

 

http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/LM317/

 

ignore the capacitors and you have your circuit.

[evilc66]

remove them.

[luisagos]

This is what I am going to use to control these drivers.

 

The basic model Profilux has 2 ports.

Thats 2 analog outs 1-10v for each port, a total of 4 analog outs.

 

Also included in those ports is 1 relay out for each analog out, a total of 4 relay outs.

 

Those relays are use to shut off the dimming device, because 1-10v never completely shuts off the lights, you will need those outputs to completely shutoff the unit.

 

I am ordering LEDs from that group buy, about 100 of them.

 

Going use 1 port, 2 analog outs for the whites and blues dimming.

Then using the relay outs to switch the power off.

 

This what your going to need. Scroll down to see the English version.

 

http://www.aquariumcomputer.com/Download/M...VG-AP2_V400.pdf

 

EVG-AP2 is rated at 16 amps at 250 (8 amps at 125v). Its a dual output port.

 

If you want clouds, storm and lunar cycles, this controller will do this like the AI LED system does.

I hope this helps anyone thinking buying a controller. I have one and love it.

 

 

 

They have these controllers on sale.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...hreadid=1628284

[STI470]

For those of us that don't make circuit boards every day, would this work? May only be $5 more than making it. http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SWADJ.htm

[evilc66]

The only problem could be that the max output voltage is as high as 13v. This will be dependant of input voltage. Find out from them what the voltage drop from input voltage to max output voltage is. Chances are it's about 1.25v, which would put you at 10.75v output with a 12v input. This may be sufficient.

[seacowboy]

Hi everyone,

 

This is my first post on Nano-Reef. I am in the planning stages of a 15 gallon and I have become really interested in LEDs.

 

I am not sure if anyone has addressed this issue in the thread, but can the meanwells be connected to a wall outlet? The data sheet says the meanwell has an input of 90-265 VAC and in the US we have electrical outlets of 110-220 VAC. So to connect, we'd just need to buy a power cord and then connect the power cord to the meanwell, right?

[STI470]

I didn't call (Sunday) but the site says "1.3V typical dropout voltage at full load" I think is what you were referring to.

[luisagos]

Hi everyone,

 

This is my first post on Nano-Reef. I am in the planning stages of a 15 gallon and I have become really interested in LEDs.

 

I am not sure if anyone has addressed this issue in the thread, but can the meanwells be connected to a wall outlet? The data sheet says the meanwell has an input of 90-265 VAC and in the US we have electrical outlets of 110-220 VAC. So to connect, we'd just need to buy a power cord and then connect the power cord to the meanwell, right?

 

Yes.

[npain316]

They work exactly the same way that Buckpucks do. You can run anywhere from 1-13 LEDs in series without issue. Not sure where people are getting the idea that you can only run 13 LEDs on these drivers.

Sorry about bring this up again, but I've been offline for some time (work has had me working crazy hours, but thats over now - whew).

As for the above statement. I'm of this same (mis)conception too.

According to the data sheet for these (eln-60-48) the output voltage range is 43.2-52.8V (adjustable with SVR1), or ~13 LEDs at ~3.7V.

 

Evil, I don't understand then how we can run only 1 LED?!? Wouldn't doing this overpower the LED? Can you please explain?

 

Nick

 

P.S. Thanks for all your work exploring these.

[evilc66]

43.2-52.8V is the range you can set the max voltage output in a constant voltage mode (using SVR1 if I remember). The LED operation range is 3-48V (constant current mode).

[npain316]

43.2-52.8V is the range you can set the max voltage output in a constant voltage mode (using SVR1 if I remember). The LED operation range is 3-48V (constant current mode).

 

Cool. Thanks for clearing that up.

These may be dumb questions, but can you switch between CCM and CVM? Do we need to switch between either of these?

[evilc66]

The driver automatically changes it's state based on the load it sees. There is no "switch" needed, and we don't need to worry about it.

[JoshG]

So has anyone actually done a build with these drivers yet?

[Sherman]

I build this panel of 44 star PCB leds drive by one meanwell driver and 2 others driver

 

 

 

This is when it light up

[jewbilee]

So, I'm confused. this is a power supply and driver in one unit?

[Sherman]

The left side of the tank is light up by the above panel.The right side is light up 8 tubes of 24 watt T5 HO

[evilc66]

So, I'm confused. this is a power supply and driver in one unit?

 

A driver is a power supply in a sense. An LED driver like this is a constant current power supply. The main reason it's called a power supply is because it takes wall voltage and converts it into usable DC voltage.

[deepdvnarq]

hey evil,

did you ever try this circuit with the 556 timer?

Also just to be sure, on your pictured post with the 555timer, the red lines are the points to solder together correct? just making sure

i'm going to pick up the parts in the next day or so and get them ready for the drivers.

[evilc66]

A 556 is just two 555s in the same package. It will make for a lightly more compact setup if you are in need of two dimming circuits.

 

You are right on the diagram. The red lines show the connections between components.

[deepdvnarq]

A 556 is just two 555s in the same package. It will make for a lightly more compact setup if you are in need of two dimming circuits.

 

You are right on the diagram. The red lines show the connections between components.

well i do need two dimming circuits. will need to try it!

[deepdvnarq]

Sorry for being a PITA but i'm trying to learn how to do this circuit. i cant read the picture (page 3) as well as i thought i could. i really cant tell what gets connected to what. can someone help me out? or at least post another pic without the writing/labels. this way i can match it up exactly and position everything the same way. then once i learn this i'm going to give the 556 timer a shot. i already purchased both the 555 and the 556 and i noticed the pins are the same just in a different order. once i learn to do the 555 timer i think i can just map out the 556 with the 555.

thank you