evilc66 Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 There are European reatilers that have better prices than that. You just need to look harder (Hint: www.LED-Tech.de) Many US retailers won't ship international. You should try Cutter Electronics in Australia. Link to comment
The Swede Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 ok thanks again mate=) the swedish led sites suck that i can tell you they are to expensive. but im going to search the web some more. Link to comment
stevenkoh08 Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Hi all i've seen alot of people design all this nice lighting system control as like sunrise to sunset but into details like what parts is needed even a resistor also count it not being indicated so kind of see u all ready build the system damp great but to some of people here need a step by step function and build instrution to guilde us the way.. don't u all think so indeed i can't really fingd the correct site or tread to start off so is there any kind soul to start the tread and teach us (elec nuts) Link to comment
Giga Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 "brain", this pic just showing how I started, basic copper board and I printed out the circuit that I designed: I transfer the toner onto the copper circuit board, and I fixed the circuit here and there using a sharpie: This is after I etch the copper and cleaned the toner and sharpie markings: Did you just print it with a printer and then iron it on the cooper board? what was the sharpie used for? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Sometimes the toner doesn't stick in spots. Sharpies work well for touch up work. You can even make full circuits out of it if you want. If you do the toner transfer method, use the cheapest, crappy, waxy gloss paper you can find (not photo paper). Toner doesn't stick that well and makes transfer much easier. Link to comment
Giga Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 does it matter what type of printer you have? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Has to be laser. Can be done on a photocopier also. If the printer/copier has an option for saturation levels, crank it up. The deeper the black, the better the transfer. Link to comment
momac Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Hey DarkDevil! Super build you have there. I have slowly been getting the parts together for a similar endeavor but I am in no big hurry at this time to complete the project. A question: Just a thought.... Is it possible that the base pwm frequency would play a role in the "strobe" effect your seeing? As I understand it, the higher one's frequency gets above, say 60 hertz, the less noticeable the flicker of the LED. Raising the pwm freq. might be a nice experiment... pwm duty cycle would remain the same of course. Mike Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 The driver sets the frequency output of the LEDs. Changing the input pwm frequency isn't going to make a difference to the output frquency unfortunately. Link to comment
Giga Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Do you have to use the pcb printout right away? or can you wait a day or so. Mainly becuase I own a color printer and it's not laser-my work has laser so if I print in there I can just take it home with me? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Thats perfectly fine. It's not like you have to work while the toner is soft. The toner is dry the instant it comes out of the printer, so it doesn't matter if you take a minute or a year. Link to comment
cptbjorn Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Just make several copies as it can take quite a bit of fussing to figure out how to get a good transfer with your particular printer/paper/iron. I never got very good at it and gave up on toner transfer after 5+ years and many dozens of boards... Link to comment
momac Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 The driver sets the frequency output of the LEDs. Changing the input pwm frequency isn't going to make a difference to the output frquency unfortunately. Thanks, Evil I was not certain of the buckpuck's function with regard to the LED modulation. I should have taken the time to research this better. Since we have briefly strayed toward home pcb etching questions: I tried this back in the mid '80s and had gotten pretty spotty results, to the point where I quit trying to make my own boards. A few years back, after some reading and testing, I purchased a personal laminator which I use to fuse the toner to the copper boards. This works great and I can get very good results with fairly fine traces (takes a couple of passes through the laminator). The laminator was like $25 on Ebay, but it is indispensable when it comes to creating my own boards with relatively consistent results (and it is MUCH more consistent than using an iron). So the tools I have found most effective for home pcb etching are as follows: * Software: Eagle by CadSoft (I believe this is currently free for personal use on small sized boards... up to about 4x3 inches or less) * Printer: HP LaserJet 4 - set at highest resolution (or DPI) * Paper: Label backing (like found on adhesive address labels, or the like) * Toner transfer: Personal Laminator * Etchant: Ferric Choride - slightly heated (DISCLAIMER: don't EVEN mess with this stuff if you don't know how to properly handle/use/dispose of it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!) * Tank: AntFarm container with a small air pump/airstone providing agitation for even copper removal. I can print to paper, fuse to copper, and etch a board, all in about 15 to 20 minutes. This does not include the time to develope the artwork with Eagle. Hope this helps others, Mike Link to comment
Dewisant Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 Hi all - better introduce myself I have a 450 (UK) gallon tank with a 60 gallon sump - I have had the tank two years now and have loads (couple cwt) of live rock in it - I have up until lately just had fish but have now started adding corals - I have several different lighting units installed - one end of the tank has an Arcadia 2 x 250 w halides and 1 blue actinic strip light 2 coral culture marine white strips and the other end has 2 x 150 halides 2 marine white strips and one blue actinic - I found this site looking for DIY LED lighting projects in the hope I can cut the electricity bill for the lighting alone - and I came across this cool thread so I joined up - I have retired now so have plenty of time on my hands and am quite capable of using a soldering iron - I used to make my own circuit boards but I gave all the kit away to a youngster that was interested along with my programmer and UV light box loads of EPROMS blank boards etc - he promptly sold it - anyway my tanks surface area is 108" x 30" so I need plenty of light - I have looked at the prices for enough LED lights for the tank and it was frightening so I have to resort to building my own - is this the best unit on this forum or has it been superseded by a better one?? how many LED's and of what colours would I need to replace all my lighting?? any help anyone can give this geriatric would be appreciated and a supplier in the UK I can source all the bits from or even overseas if it would be cheaper - thanking you in anticipation of your help - Dewi Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 That's a big tank to light. Even DIY will be expensive, but not as bad as buying commercial options. So, is this tank about 38" tall (based off the info given)? Link to comment
Dewisant Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 That's a big tank to light. Even DIY will be expensive, but not as bad as buying commercial options. So, is this tank about 38" tall (based off the info given)? yep - my pride and joy - it took ten of us to lift it when it was empty it cannot be more expensive than the power the tank is consuming now annually - it has got to drop my power bill a bit - what with heaters, chiller & pumps running anyway - so any advice would be appreciated Link to comment
evilc66 Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 This will have to be adjusted for braces, but a 42x8 array with 40 degree optics for a good mixed reef. This will be more light than you have now, but with the right drivers, that can be adjusted. A 50/50 mix of LEDs will get you about a 14K look. Again, that can be changed with dimmable drivers. Talk to Dave_Uk about where he has been getting his LEDs. He seems to have a good source. Link to comment
Dewisant Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 This will have to be adjusted for braces, but a 42x8 array with 40 degree optics for a good mixed reef. This will be more light than you have now, but with the right drivers, that can be adjusted. A 50/50 mix of LEDs will get you about a 14K look. Again, that can be changed with dimmable drivers. Talk to Dave_Uk about where he has been getting his LEDs. He seems to have a good source. thank you very much for your help I will contact him Link to comment
cichlid Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 Hello Darkdevil. I have a question: what is your experience about LED lighting with the corals. Some reefkeepers talked to me, the LED light is too much, to strong, and burn the corals at long time (6-8 months). In the beginning the corals very colorfuls, and grows, but after 4-5 months corals begins lost colors, and will be more and more white color. What is your opinion about this? You used few years ago the led lighting, your corals like it? thanks Gabor Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.