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Pod Your Reef

Yet another LED build thread


DarkDevil

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Hey DarkDevil

 

Nice Job! B)

I really need to keep going on the drilling and tapping to get the heat sink done...

 

If the fans are too loud you could consider putting in a N MOSFET and running PWM to the fan. I am planning (in the future) to do this using a Microchip MCP9701A-E as the temp sensor. It gives nice stable output and doesn't need conditioning going into an ADC. Is there a spare ADC input on the uC you are using?

 

 

Cheers

NRG

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NRG: you can do it! we are waiting for your finish product :)

 

The 2 small fans have speed control on it, I just didn't connect it. I probably want full blast out of it anyways. And I still have a lot of I/O ports left on the PIC, maybe I will put more goodies in like temp probe, pH probe, etc later. but for now, it's kinda done, although I still need to hook up a moonlight and write a small lunar code, it's all pre-wired already I just need to hook it up. it's nothing important, so I am not sweating it. :)

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Awesome, plain awesome. Nice job! Can i haz a LEDZ light??? :rolleyes::wub:

 

So what is the approximate total price wise? Is it convenient to build your own LED system if you really know what your are doing like you do?LOL

 

BTW- i like the water movement with the changing colors but maybe live would be a lil' too much like you said. Watching how it turns out

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DarkDevil, I still have to look at the pictures when I get home at lunch (work blocks photobucket :().

 

Nano-Reef-Man, it's not really "convenient" as such to build one of these. This type of lighting DIY is far more involved than a typical T5 or MH retro. It's not too hard to set up a basic array once you know the components you need. The fabrication level is a little daunting to a lot of people though. It's does offer a significant cost savings in many respects. You are coming in at a price point significantly lower than any manufactured system at similar power levels, less wattage for similar results to other lighting types resulting in lower electricity bills, no bulb replacement over the course of a few years, and less heat into the tank negating the possible need for a chiller. So it has the possibility to save you a lot in the long run.

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Nano-reef-man: just as evilc66 saids, it's not "convinent" pe se, but if you have the interest to do the job, I am sure a lot of people can get it done, just a lot of reading and researching though. Don't look at it as something you "have to do", but look at it as something fun to do and learn a lot along the way. I would say the total cost is somewhere around the $300 range. It can be cheaper or more expensive depends on what kind of components you choose or what kind of tools you have or have access to.

 

I am kinda starting to get used to the ever blinking white and blue, maybe I should put a couple more red LEDs and be patriotic :D I forgot to upload the video of the tank, I think people will know what I am talking about after they see the video.

 

evilc66: yeah, websense at my work blocked photobucket also... I know your pain...

 

Zombo: thanks, I tried :)

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Now that I have seen the pictures, it looks great. I really like the install of the controller and the power supply into the old PC power supply case.

 

I did notice that you have a bit of a spotlight effect going on. I'm sure it's from the reflectors. Had you thought about trying to diffuse the light a little? If you have the room, you could insert a section of fluorescent light diffusor between the cover and the reflectors. Won't be permanent so you can change it up if you don't like it.

 

Welcome to the club! (I should get t-shirts made :))

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Dunno.

 

How about, "Member of the 'We made our own lights and are better than you' Club"? Too obvious maybe? :)

 

Or how about "My bulb lasts longer than your bulb"?

 

Maybe "We paid too much for our light". Which will be followed by the one for the Solaris owners "We paid WAY too much for our light" :lol:

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Well done. I was just about to get into programming a chip myself but havent had the time. Great job! It looks great. How are the corals doing with the new lights? Props for the good workmanship

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evilc66: the biggest problem right now is what you called the "spotlight effect". as I said in my earlier posts, it caused by the wave movement at the surface. somehow it deflected and refracted the light beam into random spotlight in the tank. If I turn off all the power heads, it looks nice and smooth, so I don't know how to fix that. I want water movement tho, maybe I will try what you suggested and get a diffuser and see how it goes.

 

oh and let's make the t-shirt and make other people hate :D

 

 

neuwave: Thanks, and the corals seems to like it a lot, they opened up right after I turn on the light the first time, and they opened real fast. Also most of the corals' color seems to "pop" out, way more flourensence then the original CF lights. I have a small SPS in there and it looks like it's doing real great, I will move more SPS in there soon. the fish seems a bit scared at first tho, maybe because the light is more intense, but she got used to it after a bit.

 

 

KDris: :)

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actually it isn't that bad if you stretch out into 1 hour and if you look at it in person. the "steps" is really obvious in the video is because the camera is trying to adjust and made it even more contrast. I think I can smooth it out a bit more without going crazy re-programming it. but if I want ultra smooth dimming, I need to do couple more things which for now I believe is not necessary. (read, I am lazy :P)

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if I am not lazy, I wouldn't be building the LEDs, I would have built a space ship and I am typing this from mars already :lol: i keed i keed

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Check this out. It's a retrofit I did in a AP12 stock hood.

post-24825-1223698262_thumb.jpg

It's all Cree XR-Es, with a 40W constant current controller (22V), so I'm overdriving them a bit. I used a separate heatsink for each light engine.

 

I used way more white than blue. 5 to 1. I like the look a lot. It's warmer with all the white, and the royal blue (450-470nm) wavelength picks up the phosporescence.

 

Also, I bought optics for them (wide and narrow beam), but decided to try it without them first. I don't think keeping the light in the tank is as much of a problem as you might have thought. The tank glass must reflect much of it back in, because hardly any light is escaping my tank without any optics at all.

 

post-24825-1223697808_thumb.jpg

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Check this out. It's a retrofit I did in a AP12 stock hood.

post-24825-1223698262_thumb.jpg

It's all Cree XR-Es, with a 40W constant current controller (22V), so I'm overdriving them a bit. I used a separate heatsink for each light engine.

 

I used way more white than blue. 5 to 1. I like the look a lot. It's warmer with all the white, and the royal blue (450-470nm) wavelength picks up the phosporescence.

 

Also, I bought optics for them (wide and narrow beam), but decided to try it without them first. I don't think keeping the light in the tank is as much of a problem as you might have thought. The tank glass must reflect much of it back in, because hardly any light is escaping my tank without any optics at all.

 

post-24825-1223697808_thumb.jpg

lovin' it. great job!!

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scotteod, that looks good, I was thinking to use those at first, but decided not because it might be not be easy to remove heat from it.

 

also, the reason why I use optics is that I am not afraid of the light escaping, is that I want to intensify the light as much as possible. once I get my quantum sensor, I want to double check my numbers to see if there are a difference between and optics and without. I guess that's the only way to tell, anyhow, you got a nice setup there.

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With optics, the biggest difference you will see is in PAR levels at more depth. Big difference. There will be much less of a drop-off once you go deeper.

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