H20's Nano-Reef AquaPod 24

[H20]

Clean Up Crew:

 

 

As many new hobbyists are starting their tanks, and searching for more info, I thought I would add into my tank thread, some 'clean up crew' info, or 'CUC' as otherwise known, for anyone that may be reading my thread for the first time and would like some condensed info. These are also known as inverts, or Invertebrates.

 

I should preface all of this by saying that when adding your CUC, start small, and work your way up, in terms of number of them. Alot of websites sell 'package deals' that have, in my opinion, far too many inverts. Some will have 25 hermits, and 25 of something else, and I feel that as soon as your algae supply has diminished and the food supply is gone, they will die off, or start to kill each other. Buy a few at first, and add them 'as needed'.

 

There are many types of CUC available, from snails to crabs to shrimp, and others. I will primarily focus in this thread on the snails, crabs, and shrimp, as they are the most commonly used.

 

I will be using some info from LiveAquaria.com, (small plug to them here), as I have used their services and really liked their product and service. Some of the info is copied and pasted from there, so I wanted to give them their credit. I will focus in this post on Snails, and then move onto crabs and shrimp next.

 

 

Snails:

 

 

Astraea:

 

 

In my limited experience, I have found these to be the best 'base' of my CUC. They eat just about everything in regards to algae, and keeping the glass and rock clean of diatom and algae. They are hard workers, and I have found them to do a great job.

 

The Astraea Conehead Snail is also called the Astraea Star Snail or Astraea Snail. It is pyramidal in shape; some may have projections on the shell which give them a star-like outline.

 

The Astraea Conehead Snail will do well in an aquarium if provided with ample hiding places and sufficient room to roam. An aquarium with live rock is preferable so that it can graze on the algae. It will also graze on algae on the side of the tank. In addition, it eats cyanobacteria and diatoms. If it falls, it is often unable to right itself, and will need the aquarist to place it upright, again.

 

 

 

 

Nassarius:

 

 

These are small little guys that stay mostly buried in your substrate. They keep the sand bed stirred and clean and will track down uneaten food. They are amusing to watch, as when food hits the water, they start popping up out of the sand and scurrying around looking for food.

 

The Nassarius snail is a small scavenger with an oval spiral shell that resembles an olive pit, with a long tube-like siphon that protrudes from the end of the shell. One of the most ideal scavengers and detritus eaters, these snails are perfect for the reef aquarium, quickly consuming detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, and fish waste. Nassarius Snails like to bury themselves in the sand, which will help maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate.

 

 

Cerith:

 

 

The Cerith has proved itself in my tank, to wear multiple hats. I have seen them bury in the sand, graze the rocks and the glass, and also like to graze the substrate of diatoms. They seem to want to do it all. Mine are quite large, so the smaller ones may like to bury more than mine do, but I see mine all over the tank, doing multiple tasks.

 

The Cerith snail is a small scavenger with an elongated spiral shell that is usually black with tiny white dots covering the entire shell. One of the most ideal scavengers, detritus eaters, and algae eaters these snails are perfect for the reef aquarium, quickly devouring detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, fish waste, and several types of nuisance algae. Cerith Snails will often bury themselves in the sand, which will help maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate.

 

Turbo:

 

 

I only have one turbo snail in my tank, and he seems to be comparable to the Astraea snail in term of his cleanup tasks.

 

The Turbo Snail, also known as the Turban Snail, or Top Shell, is found in holes and crevices of the reef. It is shaped like a top, or turban, and has a thick shell with an irridescent interior. Turbo Snails from the Gulf of California require cooler temperatures. (Snails of the Turbo genus are also called Turban Snails.)

 

It will do well in an aquarium if provided with ample places to hide and large amounts of room in which to graze, preferably with live rock. The Turbo Snail also grazes algae on the glass and is useful in keeping the algae under control in aquariums. Since the Turbo Snail uses calcium to build its shell, adequate calcium levels must be maintained in the home aquarium.

 

 

Trochus:

 

 

The Banded Trochus Snail, also known as the Trochus Snail, Turban Shell, Turban Snail, or Top Shell, is shaped like a top or pyramid. The shell usually is a pale gray color with maroon stripes, though it is often covered with algae. (Snails of the Trochus genus are also called Turban Snails.)

 

This snail is the true Banded Trochus snail from Indonesia. Unlike its close relative the Tectus snail, Indonesian Banded Trochus have no problems up righting themselves when knocked over. This species normally has a black foot that is an off white/tan color on the underside of the foot.

 

It does well in an aquarium when provided with ample hiding places and room to forage. Live rock provides algae, cyanobacteria, and diatoms for food, but it also is an effective film algae eater, grazing on other surfaces, such as the sides of the tank.

 

 

 

There are other species of snails available, but I decided to cover the most commonly used, and most commonly available. I personally feel that a good mix of these, works well. That way, you can cover all type of cleaning abilities and types of things to be cleaned in your tank.

 

In my tank, as of this moment, have:

 

4 Astraeas

1 Turbo

3 Cernith

4 Nassarius

3 Blue Legged Hermit Crabs

1 Scarlett Reef Crab

1 Peppermint Shrimp

 

That is just to show the diversity that can be used, and I don't have tons of just one kind. This mix seems to keep my tank clean, and the algae at bay. I might be adding a few more soon, but I don't have any major issues as of now. I should point out, that I only have 2 fish as of now, one of them being an herbivore that nips at algae, so I am not feeding my tank as much as some people. I only feed every 2-3 days. If you have more fish, and feed more often, you may find that you need more CUC.

 

 

In the next post, Crabs..........

[H20]

Crabs:

 

 

 

I should start by saying that I, as well as others on the board, have mixed feeling on crabs. Some people will say not to use crabs, other will say they are great and have had no problems, and you will find some online 'packages' that consist mostly of crabs (hermits). You may have to experiment with them , and form your own opinions. Some crabs of the same species will act differently, as far as aggression, or nipping at corals. You may have to test the waters and see how yours reacts. I think that they just need to be monitored to see what kind of behavior that they exhibit.

 

 

Crabs:

 

 

I am including many crabs below, but from what I have seen, the most commonly used and readily found, are the Emerald Crab, the Blue Leg Hermits, and the Scarlett Reef hermits.

 

 

 

Emerald (mithrax):

 

 

This was the first addition to my tank. They are great cleaners, and hard workers. Mine was at constant work, always picking at the rock and keeping things cleaned up. Pulled all the filamentous dead junk off the rock, and cleaned down in nooks and crannies. Emerald Crabs can be hit or miss when finding one that will nip at your corals. I ended up returning mine to the LFS when I saw him pulling at some zoas. Many people find that they don't touch their corals and work just fine. I may end up adding another small one down the road, as they are such good cleaners, in my opinion.

 

The hardy Emerald Mithrax Crab, also known as Emerald Crab or Emerald Mythrax Crab, has a shiny green, flat, compact body and hairy legs.

 

It requires a mature aquarium with plenty of rock work and hiding places. The Emerald Mithrax Crab eats algae and various types of meaty items it can scavenge. It can be harmful to small fish, but unlike many other animals, it will eat bubble algae and is useful for cleaning tanks of this potential problem. They are an opportunistic feeder, and if food is not available to them, they may turn to supplementing their diet with corals or invertebrates.

 

If there is insufficient algae, their diet should be supplemented with dried seaweed, chopped meaty items or a quality pellet food.

 

Blue Legged Hermits:

 

 

This is one crab that I have mixed feelings on. They seem to clean well, as they are always picking at the rocks, and I have watched them eat diatom off the substrate. But I have also seem them fight with each other, and I had one that killed one of my Nassarius Snails to get his shell. You will need to keep several larger sized empty shell for the hermits to move into, as they outgrow their current shells. Or they will result in killing a snail possibly. It is amazing to watch, as I have one of my blue legs in his original tiny shell, that has hardly grown. And another one that was his same size when I first got them, that took over a shell that was too big for him at the time, and now has a body about 3 or 4 times bigger than the one that hasn't moved up in shell size yet. Quite amazing to watch the growth rate of them according to what shell they might be in.

 

The Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crab or simply Blue Leg Hermit Crab, has blue legs with red banding. Both claws are of equal size, and members of this genus are sometimes called "Equal-handed Hermit Crabs." This tiny crab lives in abandoned snail shells, or it may attack and eat the snail, then use the shell for its home.

 

The Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crab is a valuable addition to an aquarium because it will eat algae including green hair algae and cyanobacteria. In addition, it provides valuable aeration by sifting through the sand. It is one of the Hermit Crabs that is reef-safe.

 

If insufficient algae is present, the Dwarf Blue Leg Hermit Crab will need to be fed dried seaweed.

 

 

Red Tip Hermit:

 

 

Similar to the Blue Leg. The Dwarf Red Tip Hermit Crab originates from the coastal waters surrounding Mexico, and has a red face and legs. Both claws are of equal size, and members of this genus are sometimes called "Equal-handed Hermit Crabs". This tiny crab lives in abandoned snail shells which will vary in size and shape.

 

The Dwarf Red Tip Hermit Crab is a valuable addition to either a saltwater reef or fish-only aquarium due to their voracious appetite for green hair algae and cyanobacteria. In addition, they provide a valuable service of aerating the substrate by sifting through the sand. It is one of the Hermit Crabs that is reef-safe.

 

The ideal environment is an established saltwater aquarium with plenty of algae and/or live rock to graze upon. Be sure to provide empty shells of various sizes to accommodate their growth.

 

If insufficient algae is present, the Dwarf Red Tip Hermit Crab will need to be fed dried seaweed.

 

 

Scarlett Reef Hermit:

 

 

This is one Crab that many people find to be more peaceful, and get along well with other tankmates. Some call them lazy though, but I have found mine to be a decent worker, cleaning most of the time, and spends a fair amount of time on the substrate, cleaning each grain of sand, one by one. Does a good job at keeping the rocks and the substrate clean.

 

The Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab, sometimes called the Red Reef Hermit Crab or Red Legged Hermit Crab, has red legs and a yellow face. It is found along the reef faces and coral rubble of the Caribbean and Western Atlantic. It scavenges animal matter and algae, but will only grow to 1-1/2 inches in length.

 

The Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab is best kept in a reef-style aquarium where it will have ample supplies of algae to eat. It is helpful in keeping algae under control, including filamentous algae and Cyanobacteria.

 

If there is insufficient algae to eat, their diet must be supplemented with dried seaweed. They will also accept many other types of foods.

 

Halloween Hermit:

 

 

I have not had one of these personally, but see them at LFS's and online occasionally. very bright and pretty crabs.

 

The Halloween Hermit Crab originating from the Hawaiian Islands, is bright orange with red banding. They are a very colorful addition to the marine aquarium, and they aid in eating any left over food that may settle on the substrate. These crabs live in abandoned snail or triton shells, or it may resort to attacking and eating a snail so it can use the shell for its home.

 

The Halloween Hermit Crab is a valuable addition to an aquarium because it will eat algae including green hair algae and cyanobacteria. In addition, it provides valuable aeration by sifting through the sand. These Hermit Crabs can become destructive in a reef aquarium when they attain a large size.

 

If there is an insufficient amount of algae present, the Halloween Hermit Crab will need to be fed dried seaweed, as well as meaty items such as mysis shrimp.

 

 

A few others that I have no experience with, but wanted to mention:

 

 

Sally Lightfoot:

 

 

The Sally Lightfoot Crab is also known as the Nimble Spray, Short, or Urchin Crab. It has a brown body, with orange to yellow rings on the legs. It actually belongs to a family of shore crabs, however, it is less likely than the other genera to go on land. Its carapace is very flat. which allows it to hide in small crevices within rock work.

 

It prefers a strong current and will require a large aquarium with large amounts of rock work where it can hide and scavenge for detritus. It will also eat algae. When large, it can become aggressive and catch and eat small invertebrates and fish.

 

If insufficient algae is present, its diet may need to be supplemented with dried seaweed. Meaty items should also be offered.

 

Arrow Crab:

 

The Arrow Crab, also known as the Spider Crab, has extremely long legs. It is called the Arrow Crab because of the shape of the body and head. The size is variable, many reaching six inches, and some up to 10 inches. Females may be dramatically smaller. Different species inhabit different parts of the world. The most common Arrow Crab (Stenorhynchus seticornis) comes from the Caribbean, but other species are imported from the Indo-Pacific region, eastern Africa, and California. They normally inhabit portions of the reef usually associated with a small cave or crevice.

 

It is a hardy, long-lived invertebrate, that can be housed in the reef aquarium. This crab has been known to attack crustaceans such as Banded Coral Shrimp, and may even attack small slow moving fish. All crabs are opportunistic feeders and if insufficient food is present they may pick at mushrooms or polyps searching for food. Breeding Arrow Crabs in the aquarium is not generally successful. Larvae are free-swimming and hatch in about two weeks. It will accept almost all meaty, flake and tablet foods.

 

 

Porcelain Crab:

 

 

The Porcelain Anemone Crab is white with red spots and/or blotches of red or brown. They have very large front claws which they use to fend off potential predators. They are peaceful, and make a wonderful addition to any reef or invertebrate aquarium.

 

Porcelain Anemone Crabs live together in pairs under the protection of an anemone. It may attempt to defend its territory from clownfish that try to establish themselves among the anemone, although the clownfish generally prevails. It is aggressive toward conspecifics, and should not be kept with larger, aggressive crabs which may attack it.

 

It eats planktonic food and mucus from the anemone. It may be supplemented with tablet food placed next to the anemone.

 

PomPom Crab:

 

 

A cool looking crab, that may add viewing pleasure to your tank.

 

Pom Pom Crab, Lybia tessellata, is a curiously comical aquarium addition. This Hawaiian native frequently carries a small anemone in each claw. There are at least two purposes for carrying the anemones. The first is a simple matter of defense. The Pom Pom will taunt would-be predators by shaking the anemones in hopes of stinging the invader into retreat. It also mops the substrate to gather uneaten food, thus creating a symbiotic relationship between the Pom Pom Crab and its pom poms. The anemone undoubtedly benefits by getting to eat its share of the treasure. Also known as the Boxer Crab, it is a hardy creature that grows to about an inch in length. Because of this small size, it is great for the mini-reef aquarium.

 

 

Next up, Shrimp.......

[Krayon]

love all the info your posting H20, cant wait 4 the shrimp section 8)

[H20]

SHRIMP:

 

 

The following contains some info on some commonly used shrimp in the reef tank. I have only had experience with a lone Peppermint Shrimp, so I can't give much input here, but will post some info from the 'net. Shrimp can be a useful invert, as they are good scavengers and keep the tank cleaned up. Some can be of benefit to your fish, as they can pick parasites off of them, and keep them 'clean'.

 

 

Shrimp:

 

 

 

Peppermint:

 

 

This is the only one I have had in my tank so far, and he seems to be a decent cleaner. He scavenges off the substrate and rocks, and picks around the coral looking for food. Mine has been a pest at times, as he likes to run around and 'dance' on my corals and zoo's, making them close up. I rarely see him, as he prefers to hide out during the day, and come out at night. If you are looking for an ornamental shrimp that you will get pleasure out of watching under the lights, you might want to look elsewhere.

 

The Peppermint Shrimp, also known as the Veined Shrimp, or Caribbean Cleaner Shrimp, is part of the "cleaner" shrimp family, but is considered to be more of a scavenger. Its yellowish white body has several distinctive longitudinal red stripes. The Peppermint Shrimp is sometimes confused with its Pacific cousin, Rhynchocinetes durbanensis, which has a pointed nose and inter-spaced white stripes over its body.

 

First described in 1850, the Peppermint Shrimp is usually found living in the vertical shafts of the reef, sometimes in the core of the pipe sponges. It is very sociable and will live peacefully with almost all reef inhabitants. On occasion, it has been known to eat the Aiptasia sp. anemone (glass anemone) that are found in the live rock of reef aquariums and on the glass. It will not tolerate copper or high levels of nitrates in the aquarium. It will also require iodine for proper molting of its carapace.

 

The Peppermint Shrimp species has been successfully bred by commercial fish farms, but it will rarely breed in the average home aquarium.

 

In addition to what it obtains from scavenging, its diet should consist of most types of prepared foods, and possible pieces of fresh fish.

 

 

Blood/Fire:

 

The Blood Red Fire Shrimp, also known as Blood Shrimp, Fire Shrimp, or Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp, is one of the most popular shrimp in the aquarium hobby. It has a blood-red body with white spots and long white antennae. Depending on which region of the Indo-Pacific from which it originates, it may have the white dots just on its carapace, or covering its entire body.

 

The Blood Red Fire Shrimp prefers a habitat providing it with a cave or overhang where the lighting is not too intense. While it will tolerate its mate, others of its own kind will be chased away or harassed. It is generally peaceful with most other organisms in the reef system unless they impinge on its territory. As a "cleaner shrimp," it will set up cleaning stations and remove dead tissue and parasites from fish that present themselves. It will also scavenge for meaty bits along the substrate bottom. Often, only its antennae will be visible. It will not tolerate copper or high levels of nitrates in the aquarium, but will require correct levels of iodine in the water to promote proper molting.

 

The diet of the Blood Red Fire Shrimp should include freeze-dried, live or frozen foods, and flaked foods.

 

 

Scarlett skunk Cleaner:

 

 

The Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp is also known as the Indo-Pacific White-Banded Cleaner Shrimp, Indo-Pacific White-Striped Cleaner Shrimp, and Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp. It may also be called the Red Skunk Cleaner Shrimp because of the very distinct two bright red stripes surrounding one white stripe running down its back. There are two species usually referred to as striped cleaner shrimp, the L. amboinensis with white spots at the end of the tail and, from the Atlantic, the L. grabhami that has no spots. The L. amboinensis is one of the most popular shrimp for the home aquarium.

 

Often found in groups, this Cleaner Shrimp will set up a cleaning station on coral reefs or rubble, waiting for fish to come and be cleaned. It feeds on ectoparasites or dead tissue that it picks from the body and oral cavities/gills of these fish (e.g.; Tangs or Groupers) in the wild or in the aquarium. This also helps to protect the fish from contracting diseases and infections. Many fish value its services so highly that they will allow it to clean the inside of their mouths, and not harm it. Some fish, though, such as Hawkfish, Lionfish, and some predatory shrimp and crabs may eat the Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp. It will not tolerate copper or high levels of nitrates in the aquarium, but will require correct levels of iodine in the water to promote proper molting.

 

In the aquarium, the diet can include freeze dried, frozen, and dry foods.

 

 

Sexy Anemone:

 

 

The Sexy Anemone Shrimp is a fascinating shrimp that exhibits an unusual trait of swaying its abdomen back and forth, hence the name Sexy shrimp. This species is usually found among the tentacles of an anemone, but in the reef aquarium it will quickly find a nice coral to perch on.

 

Sexy shrimp do best in groups of 3 or more individuals in a smaller reef aquarium. These tiny shrimp will grow rapidly, molting about every 3-4 weeks. Although very hardy, these shrimp should be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock. They are intolerant of high nitrates or copper levels, and iodine levels in the water must be correct to promote proper molting.

 

Feed the Sexy Anemone Shrimp most flaked and frozen foods, plankton, and meaty items.

 

Banded Coral:

 

 

The Banded Coral Shrimp is also known as the Banded Cleaner Shrimp, Banded Boxing Shrimp, or Coral Banded Shrimp. S. hispidus has a red and white banded body with fairly long pinchers and an extra long white antennae. Its body has a prickly texture and length rarely exceeds 3 inches, 6 inches with the antennae. The male Banded Coral Shrimp is usually smaller. Members of the Stenopodidae are called "Boxing Shrimp" because of the large pinchers on their third set of legs. They often hold these pinchers erect, giving the appearance of a boxer ready to fight.

 

The Banded Coral Shrimp is perhaps the most widely distributed shrimp in the sea. It usually hangs upside-down in caves or crevices, with only its antennae emerging from the hole. While molting, it will often hide from sight for 1-2 days in the rocks of the reef.

 

It is a good aquarium inhabitant. Provide sufficient room to allow it to move without its long antennae touching neighboring corals or anemones. Banded Coral Shrimp must be kept singly, or as a true mated pair, being intolerant of other Banded Coral Shrimp. It may harass other smaller shrimp of different species. It is intolerant of high nitrates or copper levels, but iodine levels in the water must be correct to promote proper molting.

 

It is relatively hardy, but must be acclimated slowly to avoid any salinity and/or pH shock. Breeding the Banded Coral Shrimp is usually not successful. Larvae are generally destroyed by filtration and skimming.

 

In the wild, the Banded Coral Shrimp is a scavenger. In the home aquarium, it will accept most flaked and frozen foods.

 

Camel:

 

 

These are sometimes mistakenly sold as Peppermints. From what I have read, the Peppermint has more of a clear body, and the Camel has a pronounced hump on the back, hence the name.

 

he Camel Shrimp is also known as the Hinge-beak Shrimp, Dancing Shrimp, or Candy Shrimp. It is distinguished by a movable rostrum (beak) that is usually angled upwards. The Camel Shrimp has a variable pattern of red and white stripes on its body. The males of its species tend to have larger chelipeds (claws) than the females.

 

It prefers to congregate with other shrimp of its kind in rock crevasses, under overhangs, or in the coral rubble. It especially needs hiding places when it is molting. It usually tolerates other shrimp, but may nip at colonial anemones, disc anemones, and soft leather corals. It generally leaves bubble coral and stinging anemones alone.

 

The Camel Shrimp will accept brine shrimp, frozen or freeze-dried plankton, and flaked food.

 

 

Pistol:

 

 

The Pistol Shrimp may also be called Symbiosis Shrimp and Snapping Shrimp. It is found in a variety of colors and sizes. Pistol Shrimp are not easily sexed, but the males of many species are thought to have a larger pincher. The sound it makes comes from an appendage on the pincher which moves when the pincher is opened or closed and water is ejected. The Pistol Shrimp can be easily confused with Mantis Shrimp if judged by sound only. Unlike the Mantis Shrimp, it is not harmful and will not pose any threat in the tank, with the possible exception of smaller shrimp.

 

The name Symbiotic Shrimp comes from the equally beneficial relationship the Pistol Shrimp has with gobies (e.g.;Amblyeleotris or Stonogobiops). The goby, with better eyesight, warns the shrimp of predators. The shrimp share its food with the goby. Depending upon the species, Pistol Shrimp may also have symbiotic relationships with sponges, corals, or anemones (e.g.; Bartholomea annulata).

 

It is beneficial to the tank as it churns the sand. It thrives in environments with sand, rock caves, and dim light. If in pairs, one will often stand guard at the burrow while the other is inside. The Pistol Shrimp is intolerant of copper or high nitrate levels, but needs a correct level of iodine in the water to promote proper molting.

 

Pistol Shrimp will accept freeze-dried and frozen foods and bottom feeder tablets, as well as scavenge for algae in the aquarium.

 

 

Harlequin:

 

The Harlequin Shrimp was first scientifically described in 1852. It has a white body with large red, purple, or brown spots. The male is slightly smaller than the female. It differs from its close cousin, H. elegans, which has pale blue spots. It has large claws (chelipeds) which are for show only; it does not use them for hunting.

 

The Harlequin Shrimp is best kept as mated pairs in an aquarium with moderate light. The Harlequin Shrimp can not tolerate copper or high nitrates, and iodine levels must be correct and maintained to ensure proper molting.

 

It is very particular about what it will eat, dining only on echinoderms, primarily starfish, and a few urchin species. It will eat starfish (Linckia, Fromia sp.) by starting at the tip of the arm and working its way to the central disc. The starfish may shed the arm, but is often mortally wounded.

 

As its primary source of food, you will need to supply the Harlequin Shrimp with starfish (Asterias rubens for adults, and Linckia for juveniles). The adults may also eat sea urchins.

 

Anemone:

 

 

The Glass Anemone Shrimp, also known as the White-patched Anemone Shrimp, or Pacific Clown Anemone Shrimp, was first described in 1902. While it is sometimes difficult to see within its host anemone, it is the most common of all the imported anemone shrimps. Its transparent body has several white spots irregularly spread over its carapace and tail, which helps it to blend in with the tentacles of the anemone. Another distinctive marking of its species are the five black-edged orange spots on its caudal fin.

 

The Glass Anemone Shrimp will do best in a tank with anemones or sea cucumbers that can serve as a host. The shrimp will generally stay close to its host anemone or sea cucumber. If it does not see any larger fish nearby, it will sometimes venture out and forage for food. Otherwise, it shares its food with the anemone. It is protected from the stinging cells of the anemone by the mucus secreted by the anemone, which coats the shrimp's body. Every time the shrimp molts to grow, it has to hide from the anemone since it loses its mucus-covered shell. It then has to slowly approach the anemone and re-cover its body with the mucus. If there are several Glass Anemone Shrimp in the aquarium, the males will tend to have more white spots and be larger than the females.

 

In the aquarium, it will eat most meat or fish-based diets.

[H20]

Fish Stocking:

 

 

As there too many fish for me to list here, I will provide a link to a thread on Nano-Reef, that is very good in regards to stocking.

 

Click the link below:

 

 

Fish Stocking Guide

[shaz1971]

Awesome report H20, thanks for putting it all together in one place.

[RC51 in SD]

I have never used these guys, but they have some amazing looking colored zoa's on their website.

 

http://www.vividaquariums.com/10Browse.asp...brates%3APolyps

I think I'm going to give that site a try. I put my name on an email list for when the orange Supernova zoas come in. Those things look awesome! Too bad they're so much $$$$$.

[H20]

That Acan looks awesome H, do you feed with turkey baster or with forceps?

 

I feed them with either tweezers or forceps holding the mysis. I tried the turkey baster once, and even an eyedropper, but when I tried to expel the food out, the force of the blast would make the head close up and it would not get the food. I tried to gently squeeze it, but I could never get it to work well. Hence, I just use the tweezers or forceps and they work fine for me.

[shaz1971]

Thanks for the info H. One more thing I have to get

[H20]

Time off from work:

 

 

I have this entire week off from work for the Thanksgiving holiday. I am thinking this could be costly, as it is giving me time to tinker, and fool around with my tank. I was still not entirely happy with my aquascape. I liked my original one, but then changed it to make room for more coral. The end result of my previous aquascape left me feeling like there was a big white clunky brick on top of my rocks. I have been looking at it for a few weeks now and just did not like it. And the big white hunk of rock was beginning to turn green. I am not sure if it was algae or coralline, but it was ugly. Upon removal of the rock, I tried to scratch the 'green' with my fingernail, and it wouldn't come off, so I am thinking it could have been coralline. I watched a few snails move over it, and it didn't come off, hence, my coralline thoughts. And none of the other rocks were getting green, so it didn't seem to be algae taking over my tank. I have nothing against coralline, I love the stuff. And green is fine here and there in patches. But when it covered my whole top rock, it looked like a field of algae, lol. At any rate, it did not blend in with my old rocks, and its look/shape/size bugged me, so the OCD came out in me and I decided to go to the LFS.

 

OLD Scape with white chunk on top:

 

 

Theres probably a reason that I posted that old pic under the actinics, because it looked horrid under the white lights, it would blind you almost from the bleached coralline when I originally took it.

 

 

The now removed, now green, chunk of top rock:

 

 

 

 

I picked up two nice rocks at the LFS to replace that one big rock. The LFS owner had some Premium Fiji rock that had been curing in his tank for a couple of months. I got two pieces that weighted 5 1/2 lbs. total and came back home to change them out. I like the end result much better, and I am sure it will allow me to sleep better at night. Kinda close to the old setup, but to me, since I look at it everyday, it is alot different through my eyes, in a good way. The new rock is darker and has nice different colored coralline on it, like light blue, purple, and maroon. This new setup just looks a little more natural to me than the last one.

 

New Scape:

 

 

FTS:

 

 

 

Left Side:

 

 

 

Right Side:

 

 

 

 

Hopefully this will hold me for awhile.

[Krayon]

this aquascape is SO much better then ur other 1, it gives you room for coral, but also looks good, great scape dude

[knoxvegas]

Yeah I like the new 'scape better...very nice

[c est ma]

Looking great, H2O! I, too, like the new scape--but how did you ever get it to stay like that? It looks so airy...well, watery...did you epoxy any of the rocks together?

 

I don't miss the big flat center rock you used to have but personally I do find green coralline very attractive...

 

WEll, mostly wanted to let you know I was still following along faithfully.

 

--Diane

[H20]

Looking great, H2O! I, too, like the new scape--but how did you ever get it to stay like that? It looks so airy...well, watery...did you epoxy any of the rocks together?

 

I don't miss the big flat center rock you used to have but personally I do find green coralline very attractive...

 

WEll, mostly wanted to let you know I was still following along faithfully.

 

--Diane

 

 

Thanks Diane. The rock are together by gravity. They are both resting on the rocks under them, and the points where they meet in the middle, the downward force of gravity presses them together at those point and opposing force keeps them together. I shook them a bit and tried to move them around to make sure bumbling hermits and snails wouldn't make it tumble, and it seems pretty solid. The green coralline is pretty on some rocks, but when it covered my whole top rock, to me, it just looked algae infested, ha. Thanks for following my journey, I have been following yours as well, and your tank looks awesome.

[ClowningAround]

Sweet new scape you got there I like it!

[H20]

A Couple of new additions:

 

 

I have been looking for both of these, and when I stopped by my favorite LFS today, they had just gotten a new shipment in. I was able to pick up both of them. An orange and blue Florida Ricordea, that really glows bright, and has neon green mouths. It is beautiful. Also, possibly my last fish addition, a Purple Firefish. He really glows under the lights as well; the camera doesn't do him justice, but he glows a cool bright purple.

 

 

Florida Ricordea:

 

under actinics:

 

 

under daylights:

 

 

 

Purple FireFish:

 

[Nick's Reef]

Nice rics you got I really want more for my tank, I currently have one that looks about the same as yours.

[fries852]

Great thread...nice tank!! I like the new scape!! I like your firefish. YOur getting good with the pics!!! I love the ones of the tailspot. I'm thinking about a purple firefish for my 12g, or maybe the 24. The lfs has one right now. probably won't last long. I haven't seen a purple firefish around here in a long time.

 

Keep up the great thread!

[Maco]

A Couple of new additions:

I have been looking for both of these, and when I stopped by my favorite LFS today, they had just gotten a new shipment in. I was able to pick up both of them. An orange and blue Florida Ricordea, that really glows bright, and has neon green mouths. It is beautiful. Also, possibly my last fish addition, a Purple Firefish. He really glows under the lights as well; the camera doesn't do him justice, but he glows a cool bright purple.

 

 

Florida Ricordea:

 

under actinics:

 

 

under daylights:

i love rics and look at that cute baby polop to the right also like the purple fire fish

-Mac

[H20]

The ric has opened up a bit more. As you can see it is larger than in my first picture, and seems to have covered up the baby head that was next to it.

 

[shaz1971]

Nice additions H, I really like the new scape too. I think, I will be adding a couple of clowns begining of december

[Atomic081]

Beautiful Purple FireFish

[justaguy2]

Really appreciate this thread. Very helpful to see the journey. So, your tank never really spiked and cycled?

[H20]

Really appreciate this thread. Very helpful to see the journey. So, your tank never really spiked and cycled?

 

 

Not that I caught. I tested every few days and never saw any ammonia or nitrates. None that registered on my API kit anyways. Nothing in my tank has died and everything has looked good so far. I guess my pre-cured rock really was well cured... lol

[c est ma]

Oooh, very sweet ric! One of my favorites, as you know.

 

Funny, I was going to comment how it was different from my oranges because of the blue in the center, but I just happened to be looking through a file from about a year and a half ago and noticed that at that time my orange ric had a pretty large blue area in the center, too. But nowadays it's nearly totally orange up to the mouth...

 

Nice little fish, too, and great picture of it!

 

--Diane