THE OFFICIAL ASK ALBERT THIEL THREAD

[albertthiel]

Thanks Albert

 

Also got to the Lordhowensis but can't find any pictures with this coloration.

 

It does look like one but if you say that you think it is not I will look again and see what I can find and get back to you later.

 

Did you google Acans and looked at all the pics on images. google.com ?

 

Have a look at this link : http://www.masa.asn.au/masawiki/index.php/...ea_lordhowensis

 

that shows it with colors just the same as the one in your picture: greenish/blue with the red.

 

Now if what I see as colors is not greenish/blue and red then let me know what the colors are as maybe the light is affecting how the picture came out ... thanks

 

Albert

Edited November 6, 2012 by albertthiel

[qball]

It does look like one but if you say that you think it is not I will look again and see what I can find and get back to you later.

 

Did you google Acans and looked at all the pics on images. google.com ?

 

Albert

 

Yup, googled Acan Lordhowensis, then to images. Also looked on the usual sites, closest I could find was at liveaquaria. I am pretty sure it is an acan lord, but just need to confirm.

 

Tx for the help.

[albertthiel]

Yup, googled Acan Lordhowensis, then to images. Also looked on the usual sites, closest I could find was at liveaquaria. I am pretty sure it is an acan lord, but just need to confirm.

 

Tx for the help.

 

Yes I think so too but as I said the light may affect how the picture comes out and so if you confirm the colors to me again and if they are different then I'll check some other databases.

 

You could check archive.org and see if they list it.

 

I also looked at Micromussa ones but I do not think it is one but rather an Acan.

 

Albert

[jedimasterben]

I don't pretend to be an expert on lighting but I do have half decent eyes and we have a saying you might have it as well "the truth of the pudding is in the eating" There are many of us here in the UK running these "junk" LED's and getting very good results from them. Check out Ultimatereef for the many reports and pic's people have posted up on them.

 

In all honestly I don't really care if my LED's are 8k, 15k, 6500k, white blue or red or whatever. What I do care about is my tank and how well my corals do under them and given they are under "junk" LED's then they will do for me and many more judging by the results they are giving people. I have good coral growth, healthy LPS, SPS and mushie's along with good colour in my corals. What more do I need for £174 certainly not LED units costing 3 times as much and the hype that goes with them.

 

Oh yes I had lots of doubters in the beginning calling these lights junk etc but none of them had ever seen one never mind tried them. Strange now as they have all shut up after hearing and seeing the great results people are getting using them and at the end of the day that is what matters not some PAR reading although they give good PAR.

 

I don't know why these lights are performing so well for so many people I just know they do. I also have a copy of a letter from Bridgelux stating that the company is an authorised dealer in their products. I have copies of the CE electrical test certificates. I have posted pic's of the insides of my unit, I have posted many pic's of my tank under these junk LED's on here and on various other forums. Thanks, I will stay with my junk at least for now.

 

Les.

There's a lot more that goes into quality LEDs than just hype. I can purchase two of those units and put them over identical tanks and they will both look different, in addition to wasting a lot more power than a unit that was made using higher-quality diodes. These generic LEDs output 2/3 to 1/4 the amount of light that a Cree or Luxeon LED does, in addition to having inferior phosphor quality, which results in an uneven spectral output, which, as an end result, can affect the 'look' of the light and the coloration that it is able to provide. The 10-15K LEDs most are made with have incredibly poor color rendition, especially when it comes to red, orange, and yellow corals, in addition to giving the water a cold, washed-out, sterile look, which isn't very becoming over a reef tank that is full of life. You mention great color, yet I see green and blue corals, with a pink capricornis up top (which are usually a deeper red color), and sun corals in a couple of places. With only those corals, you can use limited-spectrum light and see most of what they offer (but not what they could be, I've had blue mushrooms become cyan with red specks coming from a setup similar to yours, but with whites that were slightly warmer).

 

When provided the right spectrums, you get the best of everything - growth, fluorescence (from more than just shades of green which are the most common fluorescent proteins), and coloration. With high-kelvin whites, you just don't get the same coloration as you do when based on a neutral or warm white with lots of red and amber light mixed in.

 

I'm still interested in seeing a datasheet for the LEDs, or at least an explanation why one is not provided anywhere, so I remain skeptical, but I do so for every one of the 'generic' manufacturers that do not give datasheets, Epistar, SemiLEDs, etc.

 

None of that is aimed at you personally, Les. You're a good guy and I respect you and what information and perspective you give from over across the pond.

[albertthiel]

Echinoderms, Unique and Odd

 

© Ronald L. Shimek, Ph. D., reefkeeping.com & blogleech.com

 

 

Echinoderms are highly complex animals containing organ systems that are unique, unlike anything seen in any other animals.

 

They are typically animals with no front end, no back end, no head, and no brain (Hyman, 1955; Kozloff, 1990; Harrison and Chia, 1994; Ruppert et al., 2003).

 

They also are the ecologically dominant animals in most marine ecosystems, including many coral reefs; without their presence these environments become vastly different places from how we normally think of them

 

 

Link : http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/rs/index.php

 

And a Link to another site with a lot of info on Echinoderms and Photos :

 

Link : http://bogleech.com/bio-echinoderms.html

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Echinoderms - The Meat Of The Matter

 

© Ronald L. Shimek, Ph. D. and reefkeeping.com

 

 

There are certain things we take for granted when we think of animals. Last month, I discussed echinoderms being very strange animals because they have, among other things, adapted a secondarily derived radial symmetry.

 

As soon as they metamorphose from a larva into a juvenile animal, they become radially symmetrical after abandoning the bilateral symmetry found in most animals. We are all familiar with the saying, "Beauty is only skin deep."

 

Perhaps my perceived supposition about echinoderms' oddity is based upon only superficial appearances which have little to do with the actual natural history or properties of the animal.

 

 

 

Link : http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rs/index.php

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Echinoderms in Aquaria…

 

© Dr. Ron L. Shimek and reefkeeping.com

 

Despite their success in nature, which is fostered in no small part by their odd organ systems and strange body structures, relatively few echinoderms are appropriate for aquaria. This lack of suitability is due, in part, to their strange internal morphology, which makes them particularly sensitive to changes in salinity. Echinoderms, in general, are animals requiring full strength seawater and they are intolerant of changes in salinity.

 

Although many aquarists maintain their aquaria properly, often at least some tanks along the distribution and dealer network contain water that is hyposaline or have otherwise inappropriate conditions.

 

Rapid, unnecessary and inappropriate changes in salinity during transit may result in the animals being injured and dying a slow and lingering death, often in the tank of some hobbyist who really is not to blame.

 

The other issue that is usually a problem is nutrition ... and that is often the reason that Sea Sars for instance do not survive for a long time in our aquaria (e.g. Fromia spp. stars) as often it is not known what the appropriate food is.

 

Link : http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-12/rs/index.php

 

Albert

[atoll]

There's a lot more that goes into quality LEDs than just hype.

Of course there is but there is plenty of hype often to justify the price IMO.

 

I can purchase two of those units and put them over identical tanks and they will both look different,

 

Many here have 4 over their tanks and non have mentioned anything about differences in colour between each.

 

You mention great color, yet I see green and blue corals, with a pink capricornis up top (which are usually a deeper red color), and sun corals in a couple of places. With only those corals, you can use limited-spectrum light and see most of what they offer (but not what they could be, I've had blue mushrooms become cyan with red specks coming from a setup similar to yours, but with whites that were slightly warmer).

 

But you are forgetting my camera pic's do not show the true colours of my corals due to colour balance. A guy has visited me tonight to see my tank and the LED'she is so impressed he is ordering a few for his 4x2x2

 

I'm still interested in seeing a datasheet for the LEDs, or at least an explanation why one is not provided anywhere.

They have been provided you have just not seen them.

 

 

None of that is aimed at you personally, Les. You're a good guy and I respect you and what information and perspective you give from over across the pond.

 

Ben please don't patronise me I don't care for it thanks.

We are all good guys here IMO.

I have dived the Red Sea and know what corals look like in their natural habitat so many people want to the completely unnatural look which is fine if that's what they want. I stand by my tank which is doing very nicely indeed. Many can testify who have been here including the Simon who was here earlier. My tank looks really blue to what it looks like with the naked eye as I have said if I had a camera with colour correction or was into photography I could make them look hence the colours or show them as they really do but I don't.

 

I am retired well semi and don't have the money I used to have to buy SOL's Radions etc etc and I am not alone in that. For the money I have paid there is nothing finer here in the UK again as many will testify. I stand by what I say based on my experience not on hearsay or anything else just on pure experience if the numbers don't add up well so be it.I will say no more on the matter.

 

Les.

[got2envy]

Albert! I know I promised you pix and I haven't forgotten

I wanted to share my new Abalone on your thread for now

 

Click pic for video

 

Edited November 6, 2012 by got2envy

[albertthiel]

Albert! I know I promised you pix and I haven't forgotten

I wanted to share my new Abalone on your thread for now

 

Click pic for video

 

 

Gee Maria that thing is huge ... good thing it feeds on algae and seaweed that you can add to the tank and not on Zoas ... or it would clean your tank out in no time ..

 

How large is it now? I think it grows to about 3 inches but I guess it depends on the species

 

Wonderful glider in the tank for sure ....

 

Thank for the post and sharing the Video ! I loved it ...

 

Albert

[Islandoftiki]

You never want to calibrate using a reading other than your target. You should be calibrating only with a 53ms/35ppt solution, as when you measure, you will have a much lower margin of error because what you are calibrating is the same as your target. FWIW

 

You can't. The digital Milwaukee unit is designed to be calibrated with RO/DI water. It works a little different than other refractometers.

 

Edit: You can of course double-check your calibration with 35ppt solution, but you can't actually calibrate it with it.

Edited November 6, 2012 by Islandoftiki

[albertthiel]

You can't. The digital Milwaukee unit is designed to be calibrated with RO/DI water. It works a little different than other refractometers.

 

Edit: You can of course double-check your calibration with 35ppt solution, but you can't actually calibrate it with it.

 

Thanks for clarifying that islandoftiki ...

 

When I read the original post I was kind of wondering about the statement, but since I do not have that unit I did not question the post.

 

I thought that remembered reading something about that it needed to be calibrated with RO/DI water when I make the post about the meter on this thread and before the responses from others came in.

 

But as I said not having the manual I did not react to it ... so thanks for confirming how the calibration needs to be done ...

 

Albert

[Islandoftiki]

Thanks for clarifying that islandoftiki ...

 

No problem. Here's a

[albertthiel]

No problem. Here's a

 

Thanks, I appreciate the link as it will be useful to anyone interested in the refractometer.

 

So far all the comments I have read about it have been very positive so I imagine that hobbyists are indeed pleased with it and like that meter.

 

Albert

[got2envy]

Gee Maria that thing is huge ... good thing it feeds on algae and seaweed that you can add to the tank and not on Zoas ... or it would clean your tank out in no time ..

 

How large is it now? I think it grows to about 3 inches but I guess it depends on the species

 

Wonderful glider in the tank for sure ....

 

Thank for the post and sharing the Video ! I loved it ...

 

Albert

 

It is about 3 inches long right now... I do have a bit of GHA going on after I overfed the tank with phyto...I hope it doesn't grow to fast or it will end up in the 40g with the decorator crab...he is about 3-4 inches as well.

I knew you would enjoy it!

[albertthiel]

It is about 3 inches long right now... I do have a bit of GHA going on after I overfed the tank with phyto...I hope it doesn't grow to fast or it will end up in the 40g with the decorator crab...he is about 3-4 inches as well.

I knew you would enjoy it!

 

I don't think he will get bigger as 3 inches is about the size they get but as I said depends on the exact species but what I would do if there are not enough algae is get some seaweed and add that to the tank for him/her to feed on as that is a food they easily like and consume.

 

When I saw the video I did think that he was large already but not that he was already 3 inches ... what a nice "glider" though.

 

Has he done his surfing of the tank on the glass yet ?

 

Albert

[got2envy]

He hung out front for a while then headed for the rocks...I am sure when the light goes out he will rearrange the tank

[albertthiel]

He hung out front for a while then headed for the rocks...I am sure when the light goes out he will rearrange the tank

 

Yes he will be more active during the night for sure but I don't think he'll demolish your scaping or re-arrange the tank.

 

Do you know what exact species you have as there are some Black ones that grow much larger ...

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Just a Few Tank Pics taken today

 

 

Original one .... showing some nice growth actually when I compared it to the original size picture

 

 

Looks like a new head is coming

 

 

In better shape today

 

 

Nice and extended Yumas, you can barely see the little one at the bottom of the right one

 

 

Albert

Edited November 7, 2012 by albertthiel

[jedimasterben]

You can't. The digital Milwaukee unit is designed to be calibrated with RO/DI water. It works a little different than other refractometers.

 

Edit: You can of course double-check your calibration with 35ppt solution, but you can't actually calibrate it with it.

That doesn't make much sense, unless the Milwaukee unit is not meant to measure salinities as high as 35ppt.

[Paul.b]

12 years wow .. that is quite something ... were they Halloween ones as I see those reddish/orange stripes across their legs ... but they are probably not as they use cone type shells and not the ones they are in so it is probably another kind, just plain orange leg ones.

 

I don't remember what kind of hermit crabs they were but the shells are from New York water. The crabs grew from tiny babies to about 1 1/4" so I just threw in shells from here.

Here he is pushing the female into the bubble coral. She loves it.

 

Edited November 7, 2012 by Paul.b

[albertthiel]

I don't remember what kind of hermit crabs they were but the shells are from New York water. The crabs grew from tiny babies to about 1 1/4" so I just threw in shells from here.

 

Based on looking the shells Paul I think they may have been Orange Legged ones (Ciliopagurus spp.), but without seeing more of them it is hard to tell.

 

The real nice thing though is that you kept them alive for that long. 12 years is indeed a long time ... and as you point out a very nice growth too. Thanks

 

Nice pic btw

 

Albert

Edited November 7, 2012 by albertthiel

[albertthiel]

That doesn't make much sense, unless the Milwaukee unit is not meant to measure salinities as high as 35ppt.

 

Here is what it measures and it even uses the new standard of PSU which is becoming the universal standard for measuring salinity (Practical Salinity Units) and s.g. as you can see up to 1.114 and PPT up to 150 so definitely in the range we want Ben ..

 

 

Alternatively go to the Milwaukee site if you want to read up on it some more.

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

Tunicates and Salps - Some Basic Information

 

The Surreal Diversity of the Tunicates

 

© Blogleech.com and the Photographers

 

 

 

 

 

 

Click Here to View The Info

 

Albert

[albertthiel]

A member Hbbbyisst asked me the following question via a PM : Albert, in your opinion what is the best activated carbon on the market right now as the choices are so great that I do not know which one to buy that is better than some other ones, and also the prices vary a lot, so it the more expensive the better one? Thanks for your input

 

Unfortunately there really is no way to give an answer to this question, as claims made on the products were determined more than likely by running tests of how fast a carbon could remove a certain dye, and that may not be the best test to conduct.

 

Here is what Stephen Spotte had to say in his book: Seawater Aquariums

 

It would appear that the selection of activated carbon products can be made by comparing specification figures. Unfortunately this is not the case. In _Seawater Aquariums_ Spotte (1979) sums up activated carbon selection with the following quote: “There are no valid theories that allow selection of the best activated carbon in any single case without experimentation.” Under laboratory conditions we have observed that two brands of activated carbon with similar specifications give vastly different sorption rates and capacities. Some highly priced “marine” carbons are less effective than lower priced “all purpose” products ... ...

 

And you can read more on what this evaluation and article by James R. Layton has to say about the use of GAC, and a lot of information about it, at the following link:

 

Link to this article : http://www.hallman.org/filter/gac.html

 

NOTE that there are many many articles that deal with GAC, and that a search for "Activated Carbon for Marine Aquariums", or similar search terms, will bring up a lot more articles you can read, and if you wish to learn more about GAC you should definitely do so.

 

An interesting comment by Stephen Spotte is that a more expensive product does not necessarily perform better than a lesser priced one.

 

So how do you select the activated carbon you are going to use? I will post some more on the subject once I put together a suggested list of what you should look for on spec sheets for particular brands.

 

Albert