DIY Stand Builders!

[heifinator]

So I am building a stand for my new 30x30 custom rimless cube that is on the way! I am trying to keep the stand light and maintain as much usable space as possible since its such a sump - unfriendly size.

 

The entire stand is around 36 x 33 so the tank will have 3 inches around it.

 

I guess I am just wanting to get some opinions from those with a little more structural experience on if this design will hold up without bowing or anything. I have built 2x4 stands and way over built them to be sure but this time I want to be more reasonable as space is a major concern!

 

All 1x4 and 1x6 material with pocket holes / glue / clamps as the fastening method. Doors on front only with european frameless hinges. Back, top, and sides are structural and will be 3/4" ply.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks as always all!

[mystersyster]

That's a solid design, and will definitely hold it. The typical 2x4 design, with 8 2x4 supports, can hold 18,000 pounds. Next time I build a stand, I will be using a design similar to yours, for space. =]

[seabass]

Why is the custom stand 36x33, when your tank is 30x30? You want the tank resting on the frame, not the top cross supports. The top frame is supported by the side braces and bottom frame (so the tank weight is transferred to the floor); but if you have an overhang, the tank will rest on the top cross supports (so the weight will be transferred to the pocket screws).

I'd also flip the bottom cross supports vertical. They are there to prevent twisting of the bottom frame. If you want a recess for a bottom panel, I'd use 1x3s instead.

[uisge-beatha]

Congrats on the project! You've had some great advice, so far. If you're still going with the oversized stand, I would make sure that the front of your tank sits on a cross-member; you've got to transfer the load to the sides, since the front won't be supporting weight. Make sure you use 3/4" hardwood plywood - all plywood is not created equal, in terms of strength. Last suggestion: make doubly sure that your stand is plumb and square. If it's not, the joints will be under a lot of stress, and you run the risk of it collapsing.

[heifinator]

Why is the custom stand 36x33, when your tank is 30x30? You want the tank resting on the frame, not the top cross supports. The top frame is supported by the side braces and bottom frame (so the tank weight is transferred to the floor); but if you have an overhang, the tank will rest on the top cross supports (so the weight will be transferred to the pocket screws).

 

I'd also flip the bottom cross supports vertical. They are there to prevent twisting of the bottom frame. If you want a recess for a bottom panel, I'd use 1x3s instead.

 

To fit the sump and everything inside I went oversized. If you look closely I have cross members 4 inches in that are supported by the vertical structure to transfer load.

 

 

Congrats on the project! You've had some great advice, so far. If you're still going with the oversized stand, I would make sure that the front of your tank sits on a cross-member; you've got to transfer the load to the sides, since the front won't be supporting weight. Make sure you use 3/4" hardwood plywood - all plywood is not created equal, in terms of strength. Last suggestion: make doubly sure that your stand is plumb and square. If it's not, the joints will be under a lot of stress, and you run the risk of it collapsing.

 

I am going to be using standard 1 by dimensional lumber and oak plywood.

[heifinator]

Updated design. I put a outline of the tank on top of it. Built with 3/4" oak ply and 1x4-6 dimensional lumber.

 

The reason I am going oversized is to fit everything as pictured. The stand would have a 3/4" oak ply covering it as well that is not pictured.

 

 

 

 

 

[Jsp]

Looks very solid. Good design

[WibblyPig]

You really don't need the blue, red or orange pieces. Look at how a kitchen cabinet is built - just plywood - dado the sides for the back, and attach the face frame. All the weight transfers down and there's no chance of racking. If it makes you feel better, you could glue the corners with 1x2s but not really necessary. I've demolished crappy 70's particle board cabinets that were still plenty strong...in fact I have a 250lb radial arm saw sitting on one out in the shop now.

 

If your sump is running front to back, then I would turn the green pieces so they are running opposite (side to side).

 

You could also dado the top and put some 1x3 stretchers in and then your top. It won't add much in the way of strength but will stop any twisting/torque.

[heifinator]

You really don't need the blue, red or orange pieces. Look at how a kitchen cabinet is built - just plywood - dado the sides for the back, and attach the face frame. All the weight transfers down and there's no chance of racking. If it makes you feel better, you could glue the corners with 1x2s but not really necessary. I've demolished crappy 70's particle board cabinets that were still plenty strong...in fact I have a 250lb radial arm saw sitting on one out in the shop now.

 

If your sump is running front to back, then I would turn the green pieces so they are running opposite (side to side).

 

You could also dado the top and put some 1x3 stretchers in and then your top. It won't add much in the way of strength but will stop any twisting/torque.

 

All of what you say makes a lot of sense if my tank was on the edge of the stand but it is not, the tank sits 3" in from the edge meaning the plywood would be supporting / transferring all the load and would almost surely bow no?

 

Thanks for the help!

[Jsp]

Keep the blue!

[Bossy]

Keep the blue!

 

^+1 !!! i wouldn't rely on plywood alone for a tank support on the sides!

[WibblyPig]

The top plywood? Probably not because the weight isn't a point load. The general rule for a book shelf (supported on 2 ends) is 34" for 3/4" plywood and a nosing. You'll be supported on all 4 sides so you're much stronger.

 

Did you ever see someone put a kitchen in "wrong" - i.e. putting the lower cabinets in before the uppers? If so, they'll just throw a piece of plywood on the lowers, stand on that and install the uppers. There's no deflection in the plywood.

 

Here's a sag calculator: http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

 

I put in 3/4" plywood, 36" x 33" and 300 lbs per foot - that gives you an overall deflection of .08" Double that to 2 pieces of plywood and you'll get .01" deflection.

 

However, the strength is all in the joints. If you're not confident in getting good clean glued joints, then by all means do the framing. Nobody ever said "I wish I didn't build that quite so strong" (except when they were moving it...)

[Beer]

I was going to say the same thing as Wibbley [EDIT: first post, but agree with the second as well]. If you are going with 3/4 inch ply with pocket screws and glue, there is no need to build the frame inside the stand. some diagonal corner bracing migh be good for added piece of mind, but this design is overkill. I fact, just building it out of 3/4 may be overkill. There are plenty of DIY stands out there for much larger tanks that utilize only 3/4 to 1 inch finish plywood for the structu. They are far better (stronger) than the commercial stands that are built out of cheap pine with no bracing or internal structure, which are required by many manufacturers to warrantee their tanks.

 

There are some calculators out there to figure out the strength of the stand. I think engineeringtoolbox has some. The 1-by-4s and 1-by-6s are more than enough. If you are set on going that route, you can skin it with something much thinner and still add significant strength. It would bring the cost down a bit and lighten it up quite a bit as well, which was one of your goals. That would save more weight that even going with 2x4 and skinning it with 1/8 finish.

 

Check out some YouTube videos on making a cabinet carcas. Fairly light and strong.

[heifinator]

I appreciate all the info. I guess knowing that even this is considered overbuilt makes me have some piece of mind. I will add the 1 by framing on the inside to make myself feel better but will rest easy knowing its overbuilt now!

 

I have made plywood cabinets before and am fairly confident I can get everything straight. Thanks all!

[braaap]

Ya I would say that your stand will hold an elephant pretty easily. I built mine out of 1x4 poplar and it is way overbuilt. The only reason I built it with the internal framing and not just 3/4 ply is I needed doors on the sides for access to electrical and plumbing.

[WibblyPig]

Looking at it some more, I would put a face frame on the front just to tie everything together and if you're doing plywood doors, stay away from the edge banding and use solid wood and splines to edge it all. Keep water out and a nice finished look.

[heifinator]

So I finished the stand!

 

Here is a picture showing the main structure. I added a face frame board (across the front side at the top) this is connected to the side ply and the top ply. The sides are all 1/2" and the top (not shown) is 3/4" ply. I also added 1x3's in the bottom to support the sump floor. Everything is held together primarily with pocket hole screws and some wood glue.

 

 

 

What I have found is that when I put weight on it (around 250lbs currently) I can push hard on the top-front corner on the side and get a little bit of lateral movement on the front of the stand. It is very small, probably a 1/8" of movement. It has me worried because I am crazy.

 

I assume the ply on the back is what prevents most of the lateral sway and since the front doesn't have any ply I don't get that.

I guess my question is 1) should I even be concerned... and if so, what should i do!

 

Thanks all!

[ajmckay]

Holy cavernous stand!!! Great job I love it.

 

If you're getting movement have you checked that the bottom is perfectly level? It could be that the weight of the stand is causing it to appear as though the entire bottom is touching the floor but it's slightly tweaked. Maybe try messing with some really thin shims?

 

I like the fan holes - and wow... it's so huge on the inside!!!

 

Take a pic with the lights on, want to see how the exterior is finished.

 

Finally, I noticed that there's not any blocking between the upper cross beams. Blocking would be a simple piece of wood that goes in the middle and prevents the wood from twisting under load. Wood is really strong when it's dimensionally straight but it loses a lot of strength if the top or bottom is allowed to bow in/out. Look at the underside of a floor where the joists are exposed for an example of blocking as well. I can't say if this would help your movement since I don't know which way it's moving though.

[gulfsurfer101]

Take some meds and chillout! That thing looks like it can withstand a blast! My 75g stand has a bit of sway in it but I'm not sweating it. Excellent job on the carpentry. I enjoyed your diagram prints as well.

[SquishyFishy]

I'm following along....been thinking about building a new stand. Mine came with the Biocube but it got wet a while back with an ATO malfunction and I'm worried about all that particle board. My stand is flimsy as heck compared with yours!

 

I was thinking of a kitchen sink unit and shoring it up with 2/4s on the inside and castors on the bottom. With a stone/acrylic top like Silestone so I'd have a large top to set things on and nice doors. I figure a sink unit is built to hold a double sided sink full of water so it should be plenty strong enough to hold my 29 gallons.

 

Will be watching for the final product!

[heifinator]

So I encountered an issue!

 

After filling the tank halfway and shimming it level (my floor isn't level) I found that the the front sides had bowed out in the middle by about 1/4 inch. Problematic...

 

I drained the tank and the bow came back out.

 

I assume it is because there is no face frame on the front to hold the sides together. The tank also doesn't actually sit on the sides of the stand which I am sure doesn't help either!

 

I can add a 1x4 to each side on the front and pocket hole / glue it to the plywood sides to increase the strength of the front. I am wondering if that would be sufficient. If I wasn't paranoid before now I surely am! .

 

[Eisernes]

Do you mean the tank bowed or the stand bowed? It's normal for a tank to bow out a little when it's full. My old 40b bowed 1/4" on the long side. I've never seen a stand bow out.

[heifinator]

The stand. I am pretty sure it is because I don't have a face frame on it in combination with the tank not setting on the edge of the stand. The tank is 3/4" glass, it isn't bowing =)

[Jsp]

Are u saying the sides are bowing? If so yes its because they are not braced.

[ajmckay]

I think a face frame would help a bit to stiffen things up.

 

Is there a reason you're trying to keep the front as wide as possible? If so a possible alternative - and unique mix of materials - would be to use some 1-1.5" angle iron bolted to the stand. Wood would also work though and be cheaper and stuff I like the contrast between materials though.