rdck99's 16g Nuvo Reef (Now w/NanoBox Duo + 1st SPS!)

[Brasil7]

I have the same Intank media baskets. Quick tip.

 

I use small suction cups on the back behind the baskets to keep the basket pushed closer to the waterfall (overflow) from the display. So far it's worked great for me.

[rdck99]

I have the same Intank media baskets. Quick tip.

 

I use small suction cups on the back behind the baskets to keep the basket pushed closer to the waterfall (overflow) from the display. So far it's worked great for me.

Good idea! Thanks.

[rdck99]

As you can see on the left, we have nice, healthy Duncans. On the right, the Duncans don't look so hot - tentacles are withdrawing and have an unhealthy look and texture about them. They've looked this way for a few days now. Maybe I wasn't paying close enough attention, but I almost want to say it's spreading - I don't think the middle Duncan looked this way when the ones on the right first began looking bad.

 

I've had the Duncans for maybe 6 months. Nothing else in my tank looks bad...nothing unusual with parameters. I searched the forums, but most "what's wrong with my Duncan" questions seemed to come from them bubbling up like a ballon (kind of how they look after feeding), which is a far cry from how mine look.

 

Any idea what's going on or what may have caused this? How can I remedy (I didn't think dips do much for LPS, but am I mistaken?)? Thanks for any help.

 

[RollaJase]

Perhaps they are irritated by the light? The duncans on the left look slightly shaded. However the ones on the right look similar to my elegance corals when they are pooping (odd I know). Shrunken body and open mouths.

[rdck99]

Perhaps they are irritated by the light? The duncans on the left look slightly shaded. However the ones on the right look similar to my elegance corals when they are pooping (odd I know). Shrunken body and open mouths.

Thanks for the input. Weird that their light preference would change all of a sudden, after so long, but I hear they're extremely finicky. Hopefully, they're just struggling with a 72 hour dookie.

[rdck99]

• Sick Duncans: As was suggested by many in my other post under the Corals forum, my Duncans may have just been pooping or stressed due to new growth, because they look better today and my colony now has 8 heads! It started at 7, and I really didn't think I'd see any growth under the stock lights, so pretty cool.
• White Branch/Root Stuff: Never received a good ID on this stuff, but I decided to pick it off as best as I could, because I feared it may be getting too close to some coral, and I didn't want the coral irritated. Here's what I was able to pick off. If anyone has an idea what it is, please share.

• Random shot of my newly mixed saltwater bucket. I use D-D H2Ocean salt and my bucket always looks like this. I may switch to Red Sea Coral Pro, as I hear it's the best. But who knows, if it's not broke, don't fix it...

• RO/DI Spigot: my old spigot began leaking, so I installed this new one, which is a bit more "heavy duty." After talking to a guy at Lowe's, the old spigot I had installed (marked out with a red X) is prone to leaks after awhile, so I should have gone with this new one from the get go. Word to the wise for anyone out there looking to set one up.

• New Fish: I'm looking at adding at Tail Spot Blenny and Neon Goby to replace the wrasse. The TSB seems to have more fans on the NR forums than any other fish, so I need to see what all the fuss is about. And from what I understand the Neon Goby is one of the more active/visible gobies, which is exactly what I want. Plus, both stay small and offer colors that I don't currently have in the tank.
• I'll leave you with a quick video of my clowns eating some pellets from my fingers, during a quick water change break.

[throbbinjack]

Isn't it bad to have copper fittings/ copper associated with aquarium water ? I'm new to this, but i've read in many posts on RC not to use them. I'm actually using PVC/ Plastic fittings on my RO/DI system.

[rdck99]

Isn't it bad to have copper fittings/ copper associated with aquarium water ? I'm new to this, but i've read in many posts on RC not to use them. I'm actually using PVC/ Plastic fittings on my RO/DI system.

I haven't heard that myself, but I'm also new to the hobby. What was the specific reason you read? Almost every home uses copper piping that the water will run through prior to the RO/DI treatment...is the thought that the copper will leech TDS into the newly filtered water? Just curious.

 

Either way - my fittings are brass, not copper!

[RollaJase]

Brass/Copper/Nickel shouldn't be an issue while storing fresh water, it becomes a big issue when storing salt water though.

[throbbinjack]

I think it works the same if it's copper or copper alloy, both of them have copper trace elements that are harmful once you filter the water using RO/DI. If you are using the copper/brass fittings (like home plumbing) before your RO/DI unit, it should be OK. Once the water is filtered it should be clean of all metal trace elements (not suggested to use it for mixing salt water)

 

at least that's my knowledge reading through couple of books and other forums.

 

here are couple i could find that may help

 

http://www.reefs.org/forums/topic113306.html

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2094730

Aj

[rdck99]

I think it works the same if it's copper or copper alloy, both of them have copper trace elements that are harmful once you filter the water using RO/DI. If you are using the copper/brass fittings (like home plumbing) before your RO/DI unit, it should be OK. Once the water is filtered it should be clean of all metal trace elements (not suggested to use it for mixing salt water)

 

at least that's my knowledge reading through couple of books and other forums.

 

here are couple i could find that may help

 

http://www.reefs.org/forums/topic113306.html'>http://www.reefs.org/forums/topic113306.html

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2094730'>http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2094730

 

Aj

 

Good to know - I guess my brass fitting isn't the most ideal then. Thanks for the info.

[R33fin]

Wow your tank is a inspiration deff should upgrade to a 16 gallon now lol

[rdck99]

Wow your tank is a inspiration deff should upgrade to a 16 gallon now lol

Haha, much appreciated! I've had my fair share of "bummer" and "woops" moments, as I guess everyone does in the hobby, but I was a complete saltwater noob and I'm very happy with my tank's progress. What size tank do you currently have?

 

Thanks again for the compliment!

[rdck99]

New Livestock:

If you've followed along this build from the beginning, then you know I've had a tough time trying to find other fish/movement beyond my two clowns...RIP:

• Royal Gramma (brought ich into my DT and died after less than a week; taught me to QT/treat all new fish)
• Yasha Goby (died in week 10 of my 12 week ich hospitalization; had him for several months in the DT before that and seemed healthy up until the day he died)
• Cleaner Shrimp (disappeared after a few weeks of being in the DT...no clue - my Pistol Shrimp, snails, and hermits all do great)
• Lubbock's Fairy Wrasse (awesome fish; was extremely active/healthy until I dropped in a bunch of dwarf ceriths from ReefCleaners; this addition seemed to freak him out and he went into hiding and haven't seen him in weeks)

Well, I've decided on my next round of livestock - I'm taking home a tail spot blenny and blue neon goby tomorrow. They'll spend 2-3 weeks in cupramine and prazipro, before I move them over to the DT.

 

I decided on these two fish based on several things...There was some debate whether the RG and Fairy Wrasse were good complements to two Clowns in a 16g, but the TSB and Neon Blue Goby seem to be universally favored small tank inhabitants. A LOT of people on here love the TSB. From my reading, it seems to be one of the most loved nano tank fish, so I had to see what all the fuss was about. The Neon Blue Goby will add a color (blue) that isn't seen in my tank, plus, I think it's one of the more active/visible gobies.

 

Reactor: I still haven't added media to my reactor since removing my skimmer and the reactor's biopellets. I guess I'm debating between either carbon or GFO, but I don't know which direction to go? Any opinions? Everything seems to be well with the tank as is, so I'm not in a huge hurry.

[rdck99]

I posted this in the Lighting forum, but haven't had much of a response, so I thought I'd copy it here as well...I'm debating New Lights:

 

I'm still using the two stock 8W LED lights (info below). I had a frag of 7 heads of bam bam zoas that's gone to nearly 50, while other zoas haven't grown at all. Same story for mushrooms - one has grown crazy, the others not so much. I have a few LPS in my tank and the only growth I've seen is one new duncan head. This is over a period of about 6 or so months. I've concluded that the stock lights can produce growth, but only in the most ideal of spaces in the tank.

 

Stock IM LEDs: http://www.innovativ...mp-par-page.pdf

 

I'm considering the Current USA Orbit Marine LED, the 24"-36" model: http://current-usa.com/aquarium-led-lights/orbit-marine/

• Coverage/Light Spread - I want to be able to get softie growth in all corners of my tank. I'm only wanting to grow zoas, softies, mushrooms, and a little LPS.
• Improved (or at least sustained) Color. I know this is a very subjective thing, but I like bright/loud colors, but I also don't want the tank to look "fake."My current LEDs only have whites/blues. Compared to what I already have, will adding additional white/blue LEDs and more wattage (like the Current USA light would do) improve the color, have little effect on color but give more power therefore growth, or hurt the color of my corals?
• Versatility. I'd like the new light to work over my current tank, as well as possible future/larger tank. I know this is hit or miss, depending on what size tank I'd upgrade to, but that's why I liked the Current USA LED, as it can fit a tank between 24" - 36".
• Price. I don't want to spend more than $200, and ideally a bit lower than even that.
• Mountable to the Tank. I don't want to hang anything from wires or to my ceiling.

Thanks for any feedback!

[Super CatPig]

That sucks about the fish problems. I am considering buying a neon goby as well.. You will love the TSB. Any combtooth blenny is a rock star IMO.

[rdck99]

Super CatPig!

[Super CatPig]

Just when you think you are rid of me BAM! Though I dont know much about lighting at all.. If I had to do it all over again I would buy LEDs. I'm so freakin tired of buying new bulbs.

[rdck99]

Fish Update:

 

A few posts ago I listed my troubles with fish and that I was trying a neon blue goby and tailspot blenny next...the rain of death continues:

• Tail Spot Blenny: died in quarantine after a couple of days.
• Neon Blue Goby: survived in quarantine for two weeks, looking very active. I moved him to the DT and he swam around and bounced from rock to rock for a few hours, then went into hiding and I haven't seen him since (been three weeks or so).
• Black Clown: a few days after the NBG went missing, my oldest fish, who's survived through ich and all the other deaths, began breathing heavy, not eating, and his swimming weakened. There were no markings/blemishes on him that could identify the problem, so I treated the tank with some prazipro and hoped for the best. After a few days, he died.

The tank now only houses my orange clown (bought at the same time as the black clown), pistol shrimp (oldest tank inhabitant - and thriving - his sand bed den now covers 2/3 of the tank!), and CUC. Each death seems to be a little bit different in how they've gone down, which makes it difficult to identify what the problem is. The cleaner shrimp, fairy wrasse, neon blue goby, and black clown are the most troubling/confusing to me. Any ideas? Bad luck?

 

I drip acclimate everything for at least 60-90 minutes and my tank parameters are checked religiously, and I haven't seen anything out of line.

 

Coral Update:

• Growth: Bit by bit, my corals continue to grow. While I've grown new heads on every zoa in the tank, the only one that's really blown up are my rastas (started at 7 heads, now well over 50). My Duncans have gone from 7 heads to 11. My torch went from 4 heads to 3 - I think one was getting too much flow.
• Closed Zoas: I have one zoa colony that hasn't been open for weeks. I'm not able to take it out for a dip, and I've visually observed it for pests, but couldn't spot anything. Not sure.
• Ricordeas: I had one in the corner of my tank, on the sand, away from direct light/flow, but it didn't seem happy (much smaller/shriveled up than when I first bought it), so I moved it under a bit more light, and he was gone in a day's time. I have 2 other rics in my tank - one doing well, the other very small and seemingly not all that happy. The happy one and unhappy one are both on the sand bed and in the corner. I'm not sure what to do for the unhappy one...? It's a shame I haven't had more luck with them, because they're one of my favorite corals, but I'm hesitant to buy more when they don't seem to like the tank.
• Acan: It was doing well when under the shine of both lights (I had both stock lights situated in the middle of my tank), but I moved my lights around slightly to give better coverage to the sides of my tank, and he's no longer happy. I tried raising him up off the sand bed under a light to compensate, but that just gave the green light for my hermits to pick at it. It's now back on the sand bed, and I assume I'll lose him. I may donate to my LFS next time I'm in.

[rdck99]

About a month ago, I noticed one zoa colony closed up - you could see specs of polyps poking out every once in awhile, but 99% of it's closed and hasn't opened up since. That was only one colony in a tank with about 10 total, and all others looked fine, as do the rest of my corals, so I dismissed it and crossed my fingers.

 

A week or so ago, my large colony of bam bams began closing up (see picture). It's tough to tell from the photo, but the closed heads seem whiter than a normal closed zoa head...not sure if that's normal or a symptom of a disease? Either way, this colony of 50+ heads, front and center of my tank, is of great concern, so I'm hoping for help...

 

I've seen a couple of nudis on my zoas when they were smaller (6 months ago, ish), and I was able to take the frags off to dip and remove the nudis. I've been looking all over these colonies for signs of the nudis and/or their eggs, but I can't find any. Either way, the colonies are now too big to take out and dip anyway.

 

Any ideas on what could be causing this? Any treatment suggestions that don't involve dipping an entire 6 lb piece of LR, with other corals attached?

 

5/20/14 Update: I see a lot of pods and snails in my tank, but hope to get a new wrasse in a couple weeks, which should help with that. Otherwise, I've not seen any obvious predators around the zoas. A few weeks back, I realized my dKH was down near 5-5.5, but all other parameters (Ca and Mg, at least) checked out fine. After monitoring daily for a week or so, I determined my tank was consuming about 0.15-0.20 dKH per day. So, I've been dosing Reef Fusion 2 and my dKH is up to 8ish. I hope to have it around 9 in a few days, but am trying to go at it slowly. My freshly mixed saltwater comes in around 8.5 dKH, which seems a bit low. I've been using DDH20cean, but it's about gone, so I'm going to try Red Sea Coral Pro salt mix next.

 

I saw a snail that I've never seen before hanging out near my rastas (which were completely closed and irritated). I picked it out of the tank, along with about 20 of the tiny snail in the picture. It's tough to tell in the photo, but I believe the small snail is a baby of the larger one, which I've determined to be a collinista snail (harmless algae grazer, according to this http://www.chucksaddiction.com/Hitchsnails.html). At first, I thought it may be a sundial snail and was almost excited to have found my culprit, but upon further review, it's definitely not. Harmless or not, there are tons of them, so perhaps it's enough to irritate the zoas? However, they seem to be all over my tank, so strange that only a couple zoa colonies would be bothered...who knows.

If the improved Alkalinity and wrasse doesn't cure these suckers, I'm not sure what I can do. Unless I want to disrupt a lot of other stuff, these colonies aren't really dip-friendly.

 

6/29/14 Update:

I never did get that wrasse, but my bam bam zoas continue to improve. However, the first colony that closed months ago have not rebounded - I think they're gone for good. A third small colony began closing on a different rock, which I was able to dip, but they've not rebounded much. It was really only the bam bams that I was worried about, so I'm quite pleased.

 

Before (early May 2014):

 

Today (late June 2014):

 

Considering they've rebounded, I'm led to believe that their demise was partially related to the low dKH in my tank. If it was a pest of some sort, why would it all of a sudden stop irritating them?

[rdck99]

There's one new coral and my new black clown has been in for a week or so, so I figured it was time for some photos. Plus, this is my first time using my new expodisc filter and setting a customized white balance. I like the results, but there's still room for improvement I think.

 

New black clown. Much smaller than the orange one. My previous black clown was the larger of the two and would bully the orange one, but now it's the orange one that's doing the bullying. The aggressive behavior is only when I'm directly in front of the tank and they think it's feeding time.

 

New kenya tree coral (only $5)

 

Hitchhiker colonial hydroids from the original LR

 

Mushroom garden (the single, quarter-sized mushroom, which is now 6 inches across, has spawned 6 baby mushrooms)

 

Mushroom dominance (the big red mushroom and toadstool dominant the top of my tank)

 

Coralline algae (I get coralline algae trying to grow all over the walls, but this is one spot that I'm not easily able to scrape away)

 

Group shot

[CrazyCarl]

That is a huge mushroom! very cool. weird that the zoas are closed up like that. I would check for something irritating it like vermatid snails or maybe some type of pods. I think that hitchhiker is actually colonial hydroids. you might want to look that up to see if it matches.

[rdck99]

That is a huge mushroom! very cool. weird that the zoas are closed up like that. I would check for something irritating it like vermatid snails or maybe some type of pods. I think that hitchhiker is actually colonial hydroids. you might want to look that up to see if it matches.

Yeah, the zoa thing is driving me crazy. 50+ heads of bam bams, right in middle of my DT have been closed for weeks. I've picked a few vermatid snails off in the past, and there are definitely a lot of pods that come out at night, but the heads are closed all the time - if it were pods irritating them occasionally, I'd think they'd open/close throughout the day. Plus, the other zoa colonies in the tank don't seem bothered by them. And your spot-on with the hydroids - thanks - I've edited the photo caption above!

[rdck99]

The stock IM LED's seem to be losing their power (at least the blues anyway - they're on 24/7), so I've been contemplating an upgraded light...leaning towards the AI Hydra with controller. I've been debating the mounting options, and haven't really liked any of the obvious options, but then I stumbled across throbbinjack's awesome mount design (links below). Seeing this may have made up my mind!

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/340886-im-nuvo-16-my-first-build/?p=4648776

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/340886-im-nuvo-16-my-first-build/?p=4677319

 

Anyone care to comment with opinions of the AI Hydra in general, and/or how it'd pair with the 16g Nuvo?

[CrazyCarl]

I recommend the maxspect razor 120 watt 16k. To me the extra cost of the controller was a turn off for the ai lights. For the price I think the maxspect razor is better. The razor has all you need to get all the colors and growth you could ever want. The extra colors/channels/programming is just fluff IMO.