Full Spectrum LED tank pictures

[topjimmy]

Very nice. I need to set the wb on my camera and get better pictures. I just snapped on auto.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

Very nice. I need to set the wb on my camera and get better pictures. I just snapped on auto.

 

im still learning. I invested in a tripod which took alot of those pictures.

[topjimmy]

im still learning. I invested in a tripod which took alot of those pictures.

A tripod is a great help. I will have to get mine out and do it right. You are embarrassing me.

[creefer]

A pair of the 3ups and of violet would work out and not be overkill, and the single OCW. You can run them all from a DIM4.

 

 

I'm in the process of setting up an ADA 24" x 12" x 8" and was thinking of doing something very similar to this. In your example, you're suggesting running 10 total LED on the DIM4, which I know is possible. I think you can only run 3 LED per channel when using the DIM4 with no drivers. In that case, you would have to provide a supplemental power supply for a fan if the DIM4 is used to directly control the LED, correct?? Sorry....I'm a newb when it comes to DIY LED.

 

TIA.

[jedimasterben]

I'm in the process of setting up an ADA 24" x 12" x 8" and was thinking of doing something very similar to this. In your example, you're suggesting running 10 total LED on the DIM4, which I know is possible. I think you can only run 3 LED per channel when using the DIM4 with no drivers. In that case, you would have to provide a supplemental power supply for a fan if the DIM4 is used to directly control the LED, correct?? Sorry....I'm a newb when it comes to DIY LED.

 

TIA.

I think you'll need a few more LEDs if you're planning on doing it full-spectrum. I'd do 3x 3ups, 2x OCW, and 3x violet, which is a total of 18 LEDs.

 

And yes, you'd need a power supply to run a fan, but they're dirt cheap, like $7 on Amazon, and you can control it with a timer.

[Paleoreef103]

More pics

Awesome colors from that rig. I'd love to see some SPS colors though. They seem to be the hardest to get and keep using LEDs.

[creefer]

I think you'll need a few more LEDs if you're planning on doing it full-spectrum. I'd do 3x 3ups, 2x OCW, and 3x violet, which is a total of 18 LEDs.

 

And yes, you'd need a power supply to run a fan, but they're dirt cheap, like $7 on Amazon, and you can control it with a timer.

 

 

Thanks for the response. I was thinking that I might be able to do less LED than that based on the tank size and how shallow it is. Additionally, It's not going to be that high above the tank due to restrictions where the tank will sit. I'll have to measure it later when I'm home to confirm dimensions, but it's no much distance at all and I was actually thinking that I may need to go without optics. This tank is primarily to display select LPS that don't like my SPS system.

[jedimasterben]

Awesome colors from that rig. I'd love to see some SPS colors though. They seem to be the hardest to get and keep using LEDs.

You'll see a trend amongst people losing colors using LEDs - they're all using cool white.

 

Thanks for the response. I was thinking that I might be able to do less LED than that based on the tank size and how shallow it is. Additionally, It's not going to be that high above the tank due to restrictions where the tank will sit. I'll have to measure it later when I'm home to confirm dimensions, but it's no much distance at all and I was actually thinking that I may need to go without optics. This tank is primarily to display select LPS that don't like my SPS system.

While it's not necessarily because you need the output, it's more for spread. And no optics on any of it.

[creefer]

While it's not necessarily because you need the output, it's more for spread. And no optics on any of it.

 

 

Thanks again. I'm assuming you say that due to the length of the tank. In which case, I'd likely need a 12" long heat sink?

[jedimasterben]

Thanks again. I'm assuming you say that due to the length of the tank. In which case, I'd likely need a 12" long heat sink?

That would be the best.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

Awesome colors from that rig. I'd love to see some SPS colors though. They seem to be the hardest to get and keep using LEDs.

 

Im mainly showing off the reds/oranges

the sps I have under the rig don't have reds or oranges but ill take some pics of what I have (currently small frags of them though).

[Deckoz2302]

You'll see a trend amongst people losing colors using LEDs - they're all using cool white.

 

 

I still say otherwise bud...even a year later my tank says otherwise as well

 

still running

 

5 XML t6 cool white @ 2a

5 XPG Royal @ 1a

5 XPG Blue @ 1a

6 True Violet @ 700mA

4 Turquoise @ 700A

2 Deep Red @ 700mA

 

[persun87]

Heres my build

3- steves leds double drivers

1-200w 24v powersupply

1- boost led Typhoon controller

8- 3up NW 5000k RB RB luxeon rebel

4- 3up deep red cyan blue luxeon rebel

9- TV

2- 6" makersled heatsinks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

channel 1- RB

channel 2- OCW TV

channel 3- TV NW

 

 

 

 

Does this seem like enough light for a 36x18x24 tank?

any sugestions on a light cycle?

[jedimasterben]

I still say otherwise bud...even a year later my tank says otherwise as well

 

still running

 

5 XML t6 cool white @ 2a

5 XPG Royal @ 1a

5 XPG Blue @ 1a

6 True Violet @ 700mA

4 Turquoise @ 700A

2 Deep Red @ 700mA

 

There is a even still a difference between a full-spectrum tank cool vs neutral, and neutral wins every time. They are unmatched when it comes to coloration. Earlier I was talking about setups that only use cool white and blue (most of the time 460nm or more, so not even royal blue at that point), coloration from those is god-awful. At this point, we have enough data to suggest keeping your base colors to neutral white and royal blue. Cool white is still lacking in amber, which deep red misses, and is important in color rendering. And in the yellow spectrum is where the non-fluorescing pink proteins get their color from, again where cool white doesn't hit as hard as neutral.

 

 

 

ps don't be a stranger. damnit.

 

Heres my build

3- steves leds double drivers

1-200w 24v powersupply

1- boost led Typhoon controller

8- 3up NW 5000k RB RB luxeon rebel

4- 3up deep red cyan blue luxeon rebel

9- TV

2- 6" makersled heatsinks

 

 

channel 1- RB

channel 2- OCW TV

channel 3- TV NW

 

 

Does this seem like enough light for a 36x18x24 tank?

any sugestions on a light cycle?

sexy.

 

Yes, it's enough light, and I start mine at 7:30 on the exotics, and they don't go off until around 8:00PM, but all have a nice ramp up.

[Milad LEDGroupBuy.com]

Sorry I dont have many SPS in this tank to shoot (just 3)

Here is the easiest one I could take a good shot of.

 

[like-fish]

You can, but keep in mind that you'll be running your LEDs at 350mAs at max current by running those strings in parallel (in essence you'll be running each LED at a single watt). That's fine if you are using a metric ton of them OR your tank is very shallow, but otherwise you're not getting a lot of pop. By running invetronics drivers you actually deal with one problem associated with parallel drivers. If one of string blows you'll be under the recommended drive current anyway

 

 

I got a bit stumperd when reading this section of thread. I did some research and found this:

 

I might not be the only one aout there with 5th grade electical experiance. It helped me....

[isacco]

Hello,

 

WOW, this is a realy good interesting post.

I´m planning to change my actual diy 24" fixture 50/50 RB-CW led with a new one.

Tank is 28" longx20 "highx20" wide

What do you think about this combination on a 24" makers:

12 NW

12RB

6DR

6CB

6TV

6T

 

Each colour will be individualy controlled and dimmed.

 

DR-CB-T will be in clusters like OCW .

I still have to figure layout.

 

Thanks

[jedimasterben]

Hello,

 

WOW, this is a realy good interesting post.

I´m planning to change my actual diy 24" fixture 50/50 RB-CW led with a new one.

Tank is 28" longx20 "highx20" wide

What do you think about this combination on a 24" makers:

12 NW

12RB

6DR

6CB

6TV

6T

 

Each colour will be individualy controlled and dimmed.

 

DR-CB-T will be in clusters like OCW .

I still have to figure layout.

 

Thanks

My tank is bigger and uses the same number of LEDs.

 

8x NW

16x RB

4x OCW

6-8x TV

[isacco]

My tank is bigger and uses the same number of LEDs.

 

8x NW

16x RB

4x OCW

6-8x TV

 

Do you think I shoud go with 6NW - 6 CW - 12RB???

[jedimasterben]

Do you think I shoud go with 6NW - 6 CW - 12RB???

No.

[Adrnalnrsh]

Agree with Jedi - 1nw to 2rb

 

 

Jedi can correct me if I am wrong here but 1NW to 2RB will give you roughly a 14k look if you run both at 100% (or 1to1 in terms of power) and 1NW to 3RB will give you 20k look at the same power level.

 

I used 3ups. 1NW to 2RB and I turn down my white significantly. I also prefer the OCW over individual RGB, just be cause they probably need to be 1to1 power wise as well, not worth the three drivers to run them.

[Adrnalnrsh]

My tank is bigger and uses the same number of LEDs.

 

8x NW

16x RB

4x OCW

6-8x TV

 

What size out of curiosity?

[jedimasterben]

Agree with Jedi - 1nw to 2rb

 

 

Jedi can correct me if I am wrong here but 1NW to 2RB will give you roughly a 14k look if you run both at 100% (or 1to1 in terms of power) and 1NW to 3RB will give you 20k look at the same power level.

 

I used 3ups. 1NW to 2RB and I turn down my white significantly. I also prefer the OCW over individual RGB, just be cause they probably need to be 1to1 power wise as well, not worth the three drivers to run them.

youre correct on both points.

 

What size out of curiosity?

48x24x16. fixture is 12" above the water line and 25" above the substrate, no optics. i have three clams on my sandbed as of today, a maxima, crocea, and squamosa, the crocea and squammy have been with me a couple months and are growing well.

[Adrnalnrsh]

youre correct on both points.

 

 

48x24x16. fixture is 12" above the water line and 25" above the substrate, no optics. i have three clams on my sandbed as of today, a maxima, crocea, and squamosa, the crocea and squammy have been with me a couple months and are growing well.

 

I have a 12" makers, 3 inches above the water and my tank is 20x15x20 and have SPS on the bottom. Using almost the same lighting as you accept they're all from Milad. 8 3ups, 2 OCW's and 8 TV.

[isacco]

Agree with Jedi - 1nw to 2rb

 

 

Jedi can correct me if I am wrong here but 1NW to 2RB will give you roughly a 14k look if you run both at 100% (or 1to1 in terms of power) and 1NW to 3RB will give you 20k look at the same power level.

 

I used 3ups. 1NW to 2RB and I turn down my white significantly. I also prefer the OCW over individual RGB, just be cause they probably need to be 1to1 power wise as well, not worth the three drivers to run them.

 

My controller will have 6 channels so I will be able to controll each colour individualy. also I will be using a 6 led driver http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=1320, so at 5$ is not expensive vs meanwell. 8 of this will be 40$, 2 for NW, 2 for RB and 1 for every other colour.

 

Maybe I sould put :

6NW - driver 1

3NW+3RB - driver 2

6RB - driver 3

6RB - driver 4

 

So 6NW and 15 RB