shao-lin nano Posted October 10, 2006 Author Share Posted October 10, 2006 Thanks for the suggestion SIFU. You know that the JEBO was my second choice right? Haha...JEBO = Ge-Ba. Link to comment
shao-lin nano Posted October 10, 2006 Author Share Posted October 10, 2006 Closed Loop Brainstorm I have an OM Super Squirt for my closed loop powered by an Iwaki 70RLT. I want to do an overhead return (considered manifold?). Question is should I do all 4 returns over the top or 2 through back, top, corners of the tank via bulkheads and two over to the front top corners. Second option will reduce the number of pipes running over the tank and since I'm having a "floating canopy" it'll be a cleaner look. Any thoughts on the two? Oh, and I plan on not using elbows as much as I can. I'm going experiment forming bends using a propane torch and a single PVC pipe by filling it with sand and such. Link to comment
crrichey Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 That looks premo xiaolin (just bustin your chops ) Link to comment
Monkeyrobb Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 . That's why I'm going to run the RODI directly into the sump and not an ATO resivor to save space. I have the Kent ATO hooked up to a coralife RO/DI unit and had some issues with it. The solenoid made a horrible squealing noise when it was opening and closing. This eventually went away but then one of my filter canisters cracked and flooded my basement. Kent told me the Solenoid/float switch combo was not made for topping off. Oh yeah, the waste water never stopped running. Kent sent me a new solenoid and it made noise for a week, then quieted down. The other canister on the RO/DI unit broke and flooded the basement again. Since replacing both canisters, evrything seems to work fine now. I have a splitter in the line to fill a 55 gallon drum with filtered water that I use for WC. You can find the entire discussion on RC. Look for Noisy RO/DI unit. BTW, you're tank is going to rock! Robb Link to comment
shao-lin nano Posted October 13, 2006 Author Share Posted October 13, 2006 So the coralife RO/DI unit hasn't treated you well? Any reason why Kent ATO does not recomend it for topping off? They call it ATO because it's for Automatic Top Off right? I thought this unit is mechanical...like a toliet's valve...solenoid means there's an electrical switch. I do have a JBJ ATO but want to not have a fresh water container and continually fill it up on a regular basis. Others on RC have had success with this setup as their fresh water top off but I'll look into it some more. I plan on running this off of a airwaterice.com's Typhoon III. It has a shutoff valve so that should help on waste. Link to comment
Travis Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 Kent is mecanical, should work great, but I would run a beed of silacone around where the plastic was molded together, some people have had problems with tank water getting into them and makeing the float sink and over topping off the tank. Link to comment
proraptor2 Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 You should get a ro/di from filters direct right by you in santa ana....I have one and really like it... BTW: All ro/di units come with auto shut off valves it should be standard Link to comment
shao-lin nano Posted October 15, 2006 Author Share Posted October 15, 2006 I was going to go with filters direct but someone was selling a used AirWaterIce unit for a good price. I hear that filters direct sometimes still leaves a single digit TDS reading...the Typhoon supposedly leaves 0. I got it already and the unit is really well built...I've owned RO units before but none built like this, the all clear housing and pressure gauge and TDS meter is a plus. Thanks for the advise Travis...I'll be sure to seal up the brick. Link to comment
wav3form Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I was going to go with filters direct but someone was selling a used AirWaterIce unit for a good price. I hear that filters direct sometimes still leaves a single digit TDS reading...the Typhoon supposedly leaves 0. I got it already and the unit is really well built...I've owned RO units before but none built like this, the all clear housing and pressure gauge and TDS meter is a plus. Thanks for the advise Travis...I'll be sure to seal up the brick. Good choice on the Typhoon, I have the Typhoon III and it does 0 tds all day long. Link to comment
ezcompany Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 i have the typhoon III as well, pretty happy with it so far. u have actual pics of the tank? what are your stocking plans? Link to comment
shao-lin nano Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Ya, I have the typhoon III, not the regular one. I need to get a drain saddle and a feed adapter from the cold water line in order to set up. Know of any local stores that'll have it? HD's suck a$$ service and product selection didn't have it. As for stocking I'm going to do a mix of everything. SPS for sure. We'll see what catches my eye when I get started. Link to comment
shao-lin nano Posted October 22, 2006 Author Share Posted October 22, 2006 I needed some RODI supplies and decided to go to the ebay seller Filter Direct (Water General) to get it. Good prices. It turns out that when I went to pick up the goods the owner is an old family friend of mine. I knew was in the water purification business but not the owner of Filter Direct. I've got an RODI line running from my kitchen to the location where I'll be keeping my tank. Ran some of it under the carpet and the rest along the wall for my ATO eventually. Link to comment
shao-lin nano Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share Posted October 25, 2006 I just finished my overflow. There's an external overflow box where the drain pipe will be housed and there's an internal weir to surface skim. I have two large holes in the back of the tank. Didn't opt for the long skinny notch...I'm not familar with glass and didn't trust the potential compromise to the tank's strength. The weir is triangular in shape so that it doesn't take up as much room as a rectangular shaped weir. I'm hoping it'll also help reduce noise from splashing and reduce the casting of shadows. There's also a removable eggcrate top to prevent fish and larger snails from getting through. It's all black to match with back tank color. Link to comment
avalanche1201 Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 nice! my school have us laptops and ive got sketchup on here I just need to learn the program and change my nano-tank design onto sketchup so ppl can actually see what itll look like instead of just seeing a bunch of construction lines! Link to comment
ReefWreak Posted November 30, 2006 Share Posted November 30, 2006 Hey Shao. It's been a while since i've been on N-R, mostly spend my time now dicking around RC for my new 120g. I'm glad to see that your 70g project is getting off the ground, and really well too. I'll be following and seeing how it all goes. You should really use AutoCAD for your 3D drawings, not some crappy modeling program for n00bs. Lemme know if you want me to find you a demo copy or something so you can learn to organize projects like a pro. Hope all is well, Eric Link to comment
shao-lin nano Posted December 2, 2006 Author Share Posted December 2, 2006 Thanks Eric, I've been hanging around RC's SoCal section myself gathering as much good deals as I can. Between work and business trips I haven't done much in the last month. I doubt this tank will get wet before the new year but I'm in no hurry. Link to comment
ReefWreak Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 I hate to say it, but in this hobby, the more you wait, the better the final product (more often than not). Good luck! Link to comment
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