Aggie05 Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 I am going to attempt to make a fuge out of acrylic and need to know what type of silicone I should use to bond the pieces together. And if there is anything else I should know please tell. Link to comment
lizbeth Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Well you don't use silicone for acrylic. It doesn't stick well. You use a solvent adhesive such as Weldon. Here's a link to RC with tons and tons of info on working with acrylic.....that should keep you busy for a while. What design will your fuge be? That will help us give you more info. Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 There is no link unless I am missing something. I am basing my design off of this one that wetdry custom built for a member on here. Link to comment
lizbeth Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Hmmmm? wonder where the link went? And Rc is down right now, I'll edit and post it in a bit....... Link to comment
Twobuck40 Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 i made a 5 gal fuge out of 1/8" acrylic, used acrylic cement, it bonds the pieces together like a weld. http://www.tapplastics.com/plastics/adhesi...crylcement.html TAP plastics cust all the pieces for me, i jet welded them together Link to comment
wetworx101 Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Here is a design that I perfected. This was the origional plan, still a good idea, but I added a baffle in the beginning that aided in diverting water better to eliminate microbubbles. I also decided I would rather have bioballs in the first chamber, which both designs allow. That way the bubble elimination and the biological filtration aid each other more than in the last chamber. The last chamber also becomes open to put a heater in. The last two baffles have a 6"x3"x2" coarse sponge squished in between. This keeps the macro from getting out. Either design has it's advantages, but both have one thing in common. They sport a plenum as well as miracle mud, with water flowing over both. This design allows the 5"dsb to be kept out of direct light, and pushes the macro closer to the light I have at it's top. Link to comment
wetworx101 Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Here's the one I went with...The tray is the full length of the main chamber, letting water flow up around it's sides as the tray is a half inch narrower than the chamber. I used all 1/4" plate glass with 3/8" for the baffles. Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 14, 2003 Author Share Posted February 14, 2003 thanks for the suggestions so far. Link to comment
wetworx101 Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Oh, by the way, I never mentioned it: My design is made to sit behind my 10R like the photo above from skylab. It is 18"high x 20"long x 6"wide. It is powered by a penguin 660 powerhead, and has 2 13w PC bulbs mounted above the main chamber. It holds about 8gallons of water. The input side on the left is 1/2" PVC and the output is 1"PVC. I made another very simlar for my 20H. If I could only get my digital camera back from the woman this weekend i could snap a shot or two. Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 14, 2003 Author Share Posted February 14, 2003 that would be great Link to comment
edying Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Don't use silicon for acrylic. The acrylic is too smooth and won't stick. You'll need to use something like Weldon 3 or 4 (if you want nice seams). RC has a complete rundown on doing stuff with acrylic under their DIY threads - best methods for cutting, joining pieces, type of acrylic to use, etc. -Ed Link to comment
lizbeth Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Here's the link to the RC post. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...?threadid=96763 Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 Well I moved all the stuff into my 10 gallon yesterday after being unhappy with the size of the 5.5. So is there a way for me to sit the 5.5 behind the 10 and use it as a fuge without having to drill the glass? I have searched all over but can't seem to find any answers. Lizbeth I figure you should be able to help me. Link to comment
lizbeth Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Hey a CJ6. Does that belong to you? Back to the tank.......I wouldn't do it without drilling. I hate the idea of syphon failure and flooding. If you can fix a 4x4 you can drill a hole in glass. Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 The CJ6 is the family ranch vehicle. It is a sweet and very unknown vehicle. I guess if i decide to run a fuge I will just drill the tank since it seems to be the best way of doing it. For the time being I will see how my trate levels are after a few months. Thanks for all the help. Link to comment
lizbeth Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 My daily driver is an 83 Scrambler. I also have an 83 CJ7. Good luck with the 10 gallon. You probably don't need a fuge but they are kind of fun. Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 Wow, you become cooler and cooler after every post:P Link to comment
wetworx101 Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Or you could make an overflow like I did here, out of the following parts and only 5 minutes of your time (plus the time finding the crap at home depot): 5x 1" elbows 1x 1" 'T' a few feet of 1" PVC 6" of 2" PVC a 2" cleanout adapter and cap a 1" slip cap a washer, and nylon nut, to match a 1/4" x 2" nylon bolt 1/4" and 1/2" drill bits PVC cement Link to comment
wetworx101 Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 AS you can see from the diagram, drill the center of the two caps with the 1/4" bit and then bolt them together, using the nylon bolt and washer, with the 1" cap inside the 2", bath facing the same direction. Then put a 1" pipe, 6" long at most, into the 1" cap. Use the 1/2" drill bit to make a few holes in the bottom of the 1" cap and pipe for the intake. Then drill a few holes or whatever surface skimmer pattern you like in the top of the 2" pipe. Then put the rest together as shown. If you like, you can drill a small hole in the top of the syphon and cement a rigid piece of air tubing connector inside, attaching a bit of airline and a valve to this for easy starting the syphon. The only critical piont is to keep the final overflow, #1, between points 2 and 3 to keep the syphon from ever breaking. Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 So basically what is happening is the one inch pipe sits inside of the two inch pipe. The water spills into the two inch pipe and then gets syphoned into the one inch and up through the overflow into the tank? So I could use a poweerhead to pull water into the tank and then use this overflow to get water back in, right? Why not just have it spill straight over into the tank without the second pair of 90s going back up and then down again? Link to comment
wetworx101 Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 This is set up to work with two aquariums that dont need to be at the same level (as in tank above, fuge below). A regular syphon would work, but I think the chance a 2" overflow will clog are a less than just a 1" pipe. If you put two tanks side by side with a 1" syphon, gravity prevents it from going as fast as it could if it were an above and below arrangement. Link to comment
wetworx101 Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Do you mean like this? Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 yeah, I was just curious as to why it wasn't set up like that. Link to comment
wetworx101 Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 This can work, but not as well. You will have to have your lower tank high enough to keep it's water level between #3 and #2 or the syphon will break. This design will not allow as much water flow possibly...since gravity will not be pulling as hard if the equilibrium of pressures the syphon is trying to achieve is getting less and less. Link to comment
Aggie05 Posted February 17, 2003 Author Share Posted February 17, 2003 cool, well i think I might try your original design then and just put the 5.5 underneath my 10. And just use a pump to get the water back up. Any ideas as to what GPH I should use? The bottom of the 5.5 tank will be sitting about 27" lower than the water line of the 10. Thanks for all the help. Link to comment
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